Rooting in a bag, NEW Style

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penandpike

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Posts: 129

Posted 1299719630	Reply with quote #51

I lost few rooted cutings due to mold and rot. __________________ Pen Europe, Bulgaria, Zone-6a

hoosierbanana

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Posts: 2,186

Posted 1299782743	Reply with quote #52

Long fibered sphagnum doesn't seem to support mold growth, at least for me, it does hold lot's of moisture though, and can be tough to re-wet after it gets a little too dry. Be careful and good luck. Try "water culture" next time you have a rootless orchid, anyone can do it easy as pie. The key is healthy algae which produces O2 for the submerged orchid roots, and good water with very dilute organic fert. I find water culture helps orchids withstand brighter/dryer conditions and actually saves tons of water and time! I found bags on ebay for a reasonable price in 100 units. And 2 thumbs up for Jon's method, quick and easy. __________________ 7a, DE

satellitehead

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Posts: 3,687

Posted 1314754613	Reply with quote #53

Jon, have you played around with your rooting medium on this method? I seem to be having exceptionally better results so far using a 90% potting mix 10% perlite medium versus a mostly-perlite medium, and barely wet, probably less water than with mostly perlite mediums. I'm going to tinker with this one, see what kind of results I find after transplant. __________________ Jason Atlanta/Grant Park area - z8

Rob

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Posts: 550

Posted 1322601408	Reply with quote #54

I am trying this method for the first time. I happen to have a lot of coarse vermiculite left over from other gardening projects so am using that. I'm also using potting soil for some, and a mix of vermiculite and potting soil for others. Will see which one works the best. The 100% vermiculite seems to offer best air flow and if I need nutrients (not sure if I will before I transplant to a pot), I can just use liquid miracle grow or something like that. I'm placing the cuttings in my heated basement where ambient temp is about 67 degrees. So then I put them inside a plastic tub with water on the bottom, with a raised screen, so containers are not wicking up excess water. Then I place seedling mat underneath and put lid on plastic tub. I'm guessing inside temp is somewhere around 80 to 85 degrees with very high humidity. I have a couple questions about this setup: 1. Do you think the seedling mat is helpful or harmful? Is it better to have 85 degrees and high humidity, or 67 degrees and medium humidity? 2: Should I soak the medium before I put it in the bags or after? Reason I ask is I started with dry vermiculite and potting mix, and filled up the bag with the cutting in it. Then I watered. The excess water drained out the bottom but it still seems very moist, maybe too much so. Would it have been better to moisten the medium before putting it in, then let it sit for a few hours for excess water to drain off, then use this pre-moistened medium to fill up the bags? Any comments or suggestions would be welcomed. thanks __________________ Rob Maryland Zone 7 http://rbfigs.webs.com/

nypd5229

Registered:1290455653
Posts: 1,903

Posted 1322605108	Reply with quote #55

In my opinion: Don't use a heating mat. The temps are fine as is and keeping the bin closed will raise the humidity and temps. Don't use the Miracle Gro. New cuttings do not do well with any fertilizer or boosters. Add water to your medium until it is able to hold a ball. Do not over soak. Too much water is your enemy. Will rot the cutting out. I would do a 50/50 mix of Perlite and soil. I would stay away from Vermiculite. Holds too much water. If you can get your hands on Ultimate potting mix or Pro-mix, do it!. You will get great results. Most importantly- make sure there is enough holes in CLEAR cups for air and water circulation. Oxygen exchange and water drainage are very important. You can use a soldering iron to melt holes. A drill to poke holes. Even a box cutter to slash the cup and poke holes in bottom. Anything that makes aeration holes. __________________ Dominick Zone 6a-MA

texascockatoos

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Posts: 384

Posted 1322615629	Reply with quote #56

Hi Rob, Are you working with cuttings or young plants? __________________ Cathy Central, Texas (Zone 8A) http://www.texascockatoos.com

Rob

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Posts: 550

Posted 1322621382	Reply with quote #57

I am working with cuttings __________________ Rob Maryland Zone 7 http://rbfigs.webs.com/

texascockatoos

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Posts: 384

Posted 1322622425	Reply with quote #58

Hi Rob, Here are my steps with cuttings: 1. Clean with toothbrush and dawn soap to remove dirt and anything that will grow mold. 2. Then dip cuttings in a 10% bleach solution, then set a side to dry. 3. Once cuttings have dried (maybe 15 minutes), I then put the cuttings in damp spaghnum moss (misted with a squirt bottle). I have found a correlation between mold and the cuttings touching the bag, so I try to put all my cuttings in oversized (gallon or bigger) bags smothered in damp moss. 4. I only put in the same type of cuttings in the same bag, never mixing varieties in the same bag. I write on the outside of the bag the type of fig in permanent marker. 5. After the cuttings are in the bag with the damp moss, I deflate the bag (squeezing the air out) and put all the bags inside a dark canvas bag. 6. I put my canvas tote bag upstairs in a spare bedroom (sitting on the bed) but underneath a blanket to avoid light hitting the bag directly. 7. I check the cuttings about every 4 to 5 days. Thats what I do and it works well for me. Once the cuttings show signs of roots, I then will plant in cups with 100% Ultimate Potting Mix and put inside plastic tubs with cracked lids for ventilation. These tubs will sit in the same spare bedroom upstairs on the floor and they are exposed to the sun as it comes in the windows. I only water as needed which runs about 3-4 weeks. I don't fertilize at all the entire first year. Good luck. __________________ Cathy Central, Texas (Zone 8A) http://www.texascockatoos.com

lukeott

Registered:1311470849
Posts: 645

Posted 1322668385	Reply with quote #59

Finaly put my order in for the bags. I could not find the length of bags so I went with 8" long. I hope that's right, should of asked before ordered. Also, went with 2" and 3" dia. types. So unsure of what I'm doing. I want to get this right on the first time. Don't want to waste cuttings, time and money. I'm sure all of you have been there, just with all the info here makes it sound easy. Come spring, i'll bombard with questions. Good health unsure luke

satellitehead

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Posts: 3,687

Posted 1322687636	Reply with quote #60

All you had to do was look at the third picture at the link in Jon's first post (of this thread). It's this picture: http://figs4fun.com/fpix/FP515-84.jpg Take the product number off the front of the bag (S-1331). Punch that number in at http://www.uline.com and that's the exact bag he is using. __________________ Jason Atlanta/Grant Park area - z8

lukeott

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Posts: 645

Posted 1322747721	Reply with quote #61

Yes...I am an Idiot Just before I ordered I scanned the info and read 2" opening, so ordered 2'x8" with 3"x8". Well, wrong again. The 2"x8" will be sent back and exchanged for a larger size. This computer stuff is as new to me as fig stuff, so learning both at the same time. Please forgive, I am not the sharpest tack in the box. In the future I will do a lot less writing and mostly read info. luke

satellitehead

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Posts: 3,687

Posted 1322799586	Reply with quote #62

LOL. I hope you didn't take my words as a lecture. What's obvious to me may not be to others. __________________ Jason Atlanta/Grant Park area - z8

striveforfreedom

Registered:1322497326
Posts: 437

Posted 1322852764	Reply with quote #63

Can't wait to try this method out! Those are incredible results! I saw that Jon put the new bags in a 2 gallon pot and then directly in his green house and that sparked a few questions. 1) After the cuttings are in the new bags, do they have to stay in a covered tupperware to maintain a high humidity environment or does the bag itself provide enough of a the high humidity environment for the rooting area in the perlite/soil mixture? This is assuming the ambient room temperature is 75 degrees now. I was thinking if it was not in a covered tupperware they would get fresh air and less chance of mold forming. Second question. 2) Does the tupperware have to be clear and allow light in or would they root better in a dark tupperware? I have both. Any feedback (both helpful and "slap the noob-ish") is welcome and appreciated. Thanks folks. __________________ Vince Russo Norwalk, CT Zone 7A Wish list - Any cuttings of the Col de Dames would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

pitangadiego

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Posted 1322853789	Reply with quote #64

Part of the point of the 8" bags is to bury all but about 1/2" of the cutting. This reduces the amount of surface area that can lose moisture very significantly. With less possibility of moisture loss, humidity can be reduced (I would eliminate it). Lower humidity and the large air volu7me of the greenhouse have eliminated 99% of mold issues. So, you still need some containment to control the environment, but it is not as critical or fussy. I don't think color makes a diff, but as leaves emerge, they will need light. __________________ Encanto Farms Nursery http://encantofarms.com http://figs4fun.com http://webebananas.com "pitangadiego" everywhere

hoosierbanana

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Posts: 2,186

Posted 1322863809	Reply with quote #65

That is where I went wrong! I had all different lengths of cuttings with one to five inches uncovered. I think I actually remember the shorter cuttings doing better now, but I blamed my compost for being too salty and inhibiting water absorbtion through the bark. I used a crate inside a tupperware container and some thick clear plastic with a few small holes poked in it for a covering, held up off the cuttings with some sticks. I monitored the humidity and keep it around 60% by tucking the plastic down between the crate and tub to increase humidity, and untucking to dry things out a little. Usually I had to start tucking about a week after watering or if the heater was running hard. I actually bailed on the method after awhile because the ones that did not root fast were dehydrating and needed more frequent watering than was good for them. I saved a bunch by dumping them out, giving them a short soak, and putting them into the smoss ICU and then cups. Now I feel like an idiot! But I am very glad you brought that important point up Jon, because now I can go forward with a better understanding of what I am doing. Will Also, I think I can make an educated guess as to a more specific benefit to rooting in a greenhouse: air circulation. I take care of an orchid collection and they love to be in a greenhouse that is "sticky with a breeze". The high humidity keeps transpiration down and the breeze drys the leaves faster to prevent diseases. The increased air volume is important, but would not matter if there were no air currents from fans or just the natural mixing of warm and cool air. __________________ 7a, DE

lukeott

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Posts: 645

Posted 1322872346	Reply with quote #66

It's all good Jason. I'm just frustrated at myself for making the mistake. After going back, it's clearly there as the nose on my face. From what i see your are always quick to help all with solid info and advice, and for that, I thank you. Now another question comes up. I'm reading about only leaving just the end of the cutting above the perlite mixture, so if you have a cutting that is 12" what would be the best thing to do? Cut in half to make 2 cuttings? Make a 8" cutting and a 4" cutting? The reason I ask is a lot of the cutting that I've bought are about 12" long.

striveforfreedom

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Posts: 437

Posted 1322934605	Reply with quote #67

Thank you Jon for the rational behind it, was tough for me to get my head around it but now I comprende. Lid off for air, cuttings no more than 1/2 inch protruding the new bags, let em have drainage beneath. __________________ Vince Russo Norwalk, CT Zone 7A Wish list - Any cuttings of the Col de Dames would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

pitangadiego

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Posted 1322972043	Reply with quote #68

Yes, cut the 12" cutting in half. __________________ Encanto Farms Nursery http://encantofarms.com http://figs4fun.com http://webebananas.com "pitangadiego" everywhere

striveforfreedom

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Posts: 437

Posted 1324061658	Reply with quote #69

So last night I finally got around to trying this method. I made a few dozen New Bags from plastic report cover sleeves and the Foodsaver. Cut the corners and labled them with a Sharpie. Made a 90/10 perlite/potting soil mix and a 50/50 perlite/potting soil mix. I am testing both soil medium with BT cuttings and also some I picked up on eBay. Trimmed the cutting a little where they were too long. Just used a small scoop to get the soil into the bags but some soil ran out othe corners slits I made. Need to make more judicious corner cuts next time. Watered and let them drain then put them in a large tupperware container with a lid in a warm place. There is no water pooled on the bottom of the tupperware container. I plan on briefly opening it daily for fresh air exchange but remaining my question is how often does on water these guys? Mist bottle only right? This was a very easy process to follow and I am looking forward to posting some pics once we have some roots growing. __________________ Vince Russo Norwalk, CT Zone 7A Wish list - Any cuttings of the Col de Dames would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

satellitehead

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Posts: 3,687

Posted 1324065826	Reply with quote #70

Hey Vince, You shouldn't need to water much at all. For my experience (two pages worth), see: http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post/My-2011-cuttings-progress-....-5137445 __________________ Jason Atlanta/Grant Park area - z8

satellitehead

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Posts: 3,687

Posted 1324066337	Reply with quote #71

Oh, and I would add to this that ... I found a much higher success rate (after-potting survival rate) by using less perlite - specifically, I had good success with using 50% or more pre-moistened potting mix with very little added perlite in the bags. I also found it helpful to carefully up-pot BEFORE the roots manage to exit any hole in the bag AND before you have dozens of roots showing all over the bag. I was up-potting when I was seeing as few as 3-4 roots that were at least 1"-2" long, rather than waiting till I had a dozen or two dozen roots that were several inches long in that thread I just linked. __________________ Jason Atlanta/Grant Park area - z8

pitangadiego

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Posted 1324087676	Reply with quote #72

Edit: Someone asked about mold, but it looks like it has since been deleted. Very, very seriously. Tends to be fatal in almost all cases. __________________ Encanto Farms Nursery http://encantofarms.com http://figs4fun.com http://webebananas.com "pitangadiego" everywhere

rcantor

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Posts: 5,724

Posted 1324161221	Reply with quote #73

Anyone have a feel (or data :) for what the best temperature to root fig cuttings is? I've been doing something like this for years but I'm not getting the success rate you are. __________________ Zone 6, MO Wish list: Galicia Negra, De La Reina - Pons, Genovese Nero - Rafed's, Sbayi, Souadi, Acciano, Any Rimada, Sodus Sicilian, any Bass, Pons or Axier fig, any great tasting fig.

texascockatoos

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Posts: 384

Posted 1324162055	Reply with quote #74

Upstairs is running around 80 and cuttings are sprouting like crazy. __________________ Cathy Central, Texas (Zone 8A) http://www.texascockatoos.com

pitangadiego

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Posted 1324174363	Reply with quote #75

70-80F seems to work for me, generally around 75F __________________ Encanto Farms Nursery http://encantofarms.com http://figs4fun.com http://webebananas.com "pitangadiego" everywhere

striveforfreedom

Registered:1322497326
Posts: 437

Posted 1324572518	Reply with quote #76

Thank you for the link Jason. Your link and everyone's comments helped me prevent some blunders I was definitely headed towards, disaster averted. Based upon what I have read it looks like it is really easy to have too much moisture even with the new bag method. I only watered my new bags once a week ago when creatign them and the soil stil feels moist to the touch so I took them all out of the tupperware bin and am letting them dry out for a day in our sun room, warm and humid in there so I think it will be ok. The next "new bag" trial I do will be with pre moistened soil. Now since I overwatered and repacked my (old bag method) first rooting foray a few weeks ago I have not watered them since and still have been airing out the bags and reinflating them every few days and low and behold I have some root popping out! I will let them go for another few weeks then consider potting them up. Need more pots, I will try make some out of the clear report cover binders and the food saver. I have some more cuttings arriving soon so more play is on the way. __________________ Vince Russo Norwalk, CT Zone 7A Wish list - Any cuttings of the Col de Dames would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

rcantor

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Posted 1324848940	Reply with quote #77

One year I did a heating blanket under clear cups under plastic wrap to keep the temp above 70 and high humidity near an East window and all I got were leaves - no roots. Hoping for better this year :) __________________ Zone 6, MO Wish list: Galicia Negra, De La Reina - Pons, Genovese Nero - Rafed's, Sbayi, Souadi, Acciano, Any Rimada, Sodus Sicilian, any Bass, Pons or Axier fig, any great tasting fig.

Remp

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Posts: 62

Posted 1325085623	Reply with quote #78

Jon, On 4/5/10 you mentioned that in the future you may sell rooted cuttings but that shipping is problematic. Do you know if you will be selling rooted cuttings this coming season? Would you sell them for pickup at your nursery? Thanks, Eric __________________ Wish list: Malta Black Zone 6b, Southern New Jersey

pitangadiego

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Posted 1325098788	Reply with quote #79

Haven't pursued it any further, at this point in time. __________________ Encanto Farms Nursery http://encantofarms.com http://figs4fun.com http://webebananas.com "pitangadiego" everywhere

rcantor

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Posted 1325132827	Reply with quote #80

Rooted cuttings might eliminate the need for sanitary certificates if cuttings don't need them. __________________ Zone 6, MO Wish list: Galicia Negra, De La Reina - Pons, Genovese Nero - Rafed's, Sbayi, Souadi, Acciano, Any Rimada, Sodus Sicilian, any Bass, Pons or Axier fig, any great tasting fig.

rcantor

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Posted 1325132859	Reply with quote #81

I'd order a bunch of rooted cuttings! __________________ Zone 6, MO Wish list: Galicia Negra, De La Reina - Pons, Genovese Nero - Rafed's, Sbayi, Souadi, Acciano, Any Rimada, Sodus Sicilian, any Bass, Pons or Axier fig, any great tasting fig.

kassoum

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Posts: 52

Posted 1327135984	Reply with quote #82

hi all, last week I started rooting about 30 fig cuttings using the bag method . i placed them behind my freezer and covered so the temperature is about 21 Celsius my question is:- can i transplant them directly into my orchard after they show a great growth of roots? or should i wait until they get establish till the next dormant season in November? is there any one with experience in this case? thanx alot. Attached Images IMG_20120121_102356.jpg (958.90 KB, 91 views) __________________ Kassoum, Holy Land, Sakhnin

pitangadiego

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Posted 1327199301	Reply with quote #83

I wouldn't. I plant when they outgrow a 5 gallon pot. __________________ Encanto Farms Nursery http://encantofarms.com http://figs4fun.com http://webebananas.com "pitangadiego" everywhere

kassoum

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Posts: 52

Posted 1327860453	Reply with quote #84

hi pitangadiego, I am a little bit worried about my figs, its been 3 weeks passed, 9 cuttings of 40 show some leaves growth. only 5 show some root growth. is that normal?i am wondering if i should cover them with a plastic bag to make a greenhouse. or simply i should wait more time? Attached Images IMG_20120129_195537.jpg (181.84 KB, 91 views) IMG_20120129_201241.jpg (172.59 KB, 82 views) __________________ Kassoum, Holy Land, Sakhnin

snaglpus

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Posts: 4,072

Posted 1327876031	Reply with quote #85

I agree with Jon. At this stage and winter season, you should be glad that some of the cuttings have not struck yet. I would not plant any tree in the ground unless it is 2yrs or older. Just leave the cuttings alone for a few weeks and don't worry about them. I know it's hard but patience is good. :) __________________ Dennis Charlotte, North Carolina/Zone 8a

kassoum

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Posted 1327901977	Reply with quote #86

thank you snaglplus, I will take you'r advise :) __________________ Kassoum, Holy Land, Sakhnin

musillid

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Posts: 1,507

Posted 1328206368	Reply with quote #87

This is just a thought. I ran home for lunch today and noticed some GLAD snack bags in the kitchen. they are about 3"x7". Since this is roughly the size Jon is recommending for his fig-in-a-bag propagation method, I wonder if it might be a good substitute, especially since so available locally. Seal the zip-lock. Cut off the sides for top and the bottom corners and you're set. At the point of transplanting, just unzip! __________________ Dale non compost mentis in Zone 6a

pitangadiego

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Posted 1328213279	Reply with quote #88

Jump on it.The is nothing magical about my bags, other than they are the size I like, and simple to acquire. Only critical thing is that they are clear, so you can see what it happening. __________________ Encanto Farms Nursery http://encantofarms.com http://figs4fun.com http://webebananas.com "pitangadiego" everywhere

rcantor

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Posted 1328242414	Reply with quote #89

Is spagnum moss better than the 'green' moss used for lining pots? __________________ Zone 6, MO Wish list: Galicia Negra, De La Reina - Pons, Genovese Nero - Rafed's, Sbayi, Souadi, Acciano, Any Rimada, Sodus Sicilian, any Bass, Pons or Axier fig, any great tasting fig.

kassoum

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Posts: 52

Posted 1328249140	Reply with quote #90

Pitangadiego, i would like to thank you for the bag-rooting-method, i found this forum since 4 months and i am very happy to find other people who share the same interests like me. I am rooting now about 40 fig cuttings the best varieties that i choosed among about100 fig trees in my region. i placed my cuttings behind the freezer , its worm there but dark! would that effect the root growth? most of the cuttings are putting leaves out instead of roots! so i'll be patient and wait for another 2-3 weeks waiting for the roots to come out. below is a picture of my village sakhnin where i live. Attached Images sakhnin.jpg (129.28 KB, 84 views) __________________ Kassoum, Holy Land, Sakhnin

striveforfreedom

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Posts: 437

Posted 1328918074	Reply with quote #91

This is an awesome technique Jon! We are 10 for 10 potted up so far to 1 gallon pots (Thank You Jim) using the new bag method. Many more cuttings are in the plastic bin waiting their turn and I am pleased to report nothing had been tossed out so far. I haven't watered any of the cuttings since bagging them up and have been airing the bin out an hour a day per Jason's post and they are very happy. Thank you Jason! We have moved 10 of the cuttings to 1 gallon pots when I see at least 2-3 roots that are an inch long and some top growth. I filled the bottom half of the pots 70/30 potting soil/perlite and the remaining half of the pot with potting soil. So far so good. __________________ Vince Russo Norwalk, CT Zone 7A Wish list - Any cuttings of the Col de Dames would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

striveforfreedom

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Posted 1329483177	Reply with quote #92

Here are pics of both sides of a VDB Violet De Bordeaux (EL) cutting and it's rooting progress. They're going crazy! I plan moving them from the tupperware bin and potting them up this weekend. They were started on 12/25/2011 90% potting soil with 10% Perlite. I watered them once on 12/25 and they are still damp to touch. Lots more cuttings still rooting and I am very encouraged by all the progress. Thank you all for your advice and suggestions, couldn't have done it without you folks. Attached Images IMAG0502.jpg (25.63 KB, 87 views) IMAG0504.jpg (27.44 KB, 84 views) __________________ Vince Russo Norwalk, CT Zone 7A Wish list - Any cuttings of the Col de Dames would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

kassoum

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Posted 1329585444	Reply with quote #93

Hi all, I just noticed that some of my rooted fig cuttings had one or tow red roots. is that called root rot? does it mean that my fig cutting will die? please help. Attached Images IMG_20120218_180346.jpg (889.31 KB, 76 views) IMG_20120218_180332.jpg (911.04 KB, 88 views) __________________ Kassoum, Holy Land, Sakhnin

hoosierbanana

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Posted 1329594018	Reply with quote #94

Yes those very dark roots at the bottom are dead. It does not bode well for the cutting, if it is the end of the root it will be fine, if it is a root section that is coming out of the cutting it will quickly kill the cutting. Once the cuttings are growing roots it is very important to ensure they get good air circulation and are not overwatered. I see too much water in your bags at the bottom. __________________ 7a, DE

baumgrenze

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Posts: 16

Posted 1330033904	Reply with quote #95

Back when I was still a wage slave I intercepted a box of these sample bags (4" x 8" flat) on their way to the dumpster. As you can see, my cuttings do not always fit completely. Otherwise they seem pretty much the right size. Uploaded with ImageShack.us I don't have a greenhouse. I do have a 14" x 24" x 5" stainless heated water bath that I have filled with sand and used as bottom heat. I can set the 1 gallon pots in the sand. I'd like advice as to how warm the sand should be and about the tops of the bags. Should I just pull the twist-tie strips so that the bags more or less close and wrap the exposed wood in Parafilm, or would it be better to put a plastic shopping bag over each pot and call it good? What are the best conditions for the tops, ambient temperature and lighting? I am eager to get these rooted and in gallon pots so I can cut buds to chip-bud top-work my existing trees in June, once they have leafed out (thank you, Axier,) especially the Osborne and Panache, the Osborne fruit is bland compared to Lampiera and Jurupa and the Panache needs more heat than our climate currently provides. Uploaded with ImageShack.us Thanks, baumgrenze

rafaelissimmo

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Posted 1335791301	Reply with quote #96

I have a question: does this new methodology replace both step one (bag rooting) and step two (cup rooting in clear plastic cups) described in your introduction to figs/fig basics page? Or is it just a step two replacement? Thx Rafael __________________ Zone 7b, Queens, New York

pitangadiego

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Posted 1335793565	Reply with quote #97

Raphael, It replaces step one and two. You can leave them in these bags longer, so that you have more root development, and then go directly to a 1g pot. __________________ Encanto Farms Nursery http://encantofarms.com http://figs4fun.com http://webebananas.com "pitangadiego" everywhere

mastrclndr

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Posts: 47

Posted 1335798090	Reply with quote #98

In regards to rooting . .I understand the reason for pruning in the winter . . however I have experienced an interesting occurrence this season, in regards to rooting scion from winter cuttings that was stored, as opposed to rooting fresh scion. I took cuttings from a couple of trees at my brother's house, while in the process of shaping them up. One was a Panachee and the other was a white fig of unknown variety. I had already received cuttings from other sources and sellers. All cuttings were handled the same way, and wrapped in newspaper and shoved in plastic bags and set in my garage where temperatures are fairly constant and comfortable. I mean to tell ya, the fresh cuttings rooted in an amazing fashion. . . the roots were flying off them top to bottom! My other scion languished in comparison. I am of the opinion as a result of this, that using fresh scion for rooting is better than using stored and refrigerated scion that may be weeks old from winter pruning. Any thoughts? __________________ Jeff Valencia, Ca. Zones 8b - 10b depending if you're in the flats or up a cyn VdB, Marseilles vs Blk, Blk Sicilian, Red Sicilian, Blk Madeira, Blue Celeste, Flanders, Stella, Panache . . I need more room!

bullet08

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Posts: 6,920

Posted 1335798379	Reply with quote #99

Quote: Originally Posted by mastrclndr In regards to rooting . .I understand the reason for pruning in the winter . . however I have experienced an interesting occurrence this season, in regards to rooting scion from winter cuttings that was stored, as opposed to rooting fresh scion. I took cuttings from a couple of trees at my brother's house, while in the process of shaping them up. One was a Panachee and the other was a white fig of unknown variety. I had already received cuttings from other sources and sellers. All cuttings were handled the same way, and wrapped in newspaper and shoved in plastic bags and set in my garage where temperatures are fairly constant and comfortable. I mean to tell ya, the fresh cuttings rooted in an amazing fashion. . . the roots were flying off them top to bottom! My other scion languished in comparison. I am of the opinion as a result of this, that using fresh scion for rooting is better than using stored and refrigerated scion that may be weeks old from winter pruning. Any thoughts? UCD cuttings i got this year, my first year, were very fresh. they rooted very fast. however, my KB cutting i'm rooting for back up rooted even faster. KB was taken off my tree while i was cutting down the top in hope of helping it to fruit. it was last year's growth. cut it, put it into a bag wtih paper towel, didn't even wait for the root. i let it stay in it for a week or two. i saw leaves coming out and went to peat pot. now i see root to the side of the cup. also similar thing with my VdB cuttings. but i don't have any old cuttings to compare. pete __________________ Pete Durham, NC Zone 7b "don't talk to me about naval tradition. It's nothing but rum, sodomy and the lash." - sir winston churchill "the problem with socialism is that eventually you run out of other people's money." - the baroness thatcher *** all my figs have FMV/FMD, in case you're wondering. * * and... i don't sell things. what little i have will be posted here in winter for first come first serve base to be shared. no, i'm not a socialist...***

Gina

Registered:1330452963
Posts: 2,260

Posted 1335800160	Reply with quote #100

Quote: My other scion languished in comparison. I am of the opinion as a result of this, that using fresh scion for rooting is better than using stored and refrigerated scion that may be weeks old from winter pruning. Any thoughts? Yes, from my limited experience, I totally agree. Cuttings that I got that were fresh have rooted much better than those that were stored in a fridge. Those that I know to have been stored in a fridge did not root as fast - most taking longer than fresh cuttings started later. Some that I purchased on ebay are still just sitting there after weeks. Next year I'll be more careful. This year I started so late, and I had read it didn't matter, so I was less particular. __________________ WillsC's new fig forum: http://www.Ourfigs.com (and blueberries)

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