Pre emergent products probably want work for Bermuda as it spreads vegetatively and not from seed. The only herbicide that will really eradicate Bermuda grass contains the active ingredient imazipyr. This herbicide is soil active and has residual effects lasting up to a year. The only problem is it will also kill your figs and other trees that have roots in the application area.

If you don't want to use chemicals you can also top kill it with straight vinegar. Just keep in mind if you apply vinegar multiple times it might drop your pH.

Chemical free as an option to the weed wacker is whats called a Weed Burner Torch to keep that stuff in check.
Just dont get feet in the way of it as it burns @ 2500 to 3000 degree's.

Martin, are you talking about that propane flame thrower i seen on tv about a year ago. what was that called. I did try somthing i would not advise last year. i took and old sprayer and made a flame thrower out of it to kill the grass. all it did was burn what was on the surface and it all resprouted within a couple of days. i had plastic down in the back yard for over a year, when i pulled it up nothing was there but what looked like a good planting bed. within a week it was full of that burmuda again. it grows so fast and is out of control.

Yup, I tried the weed burner.   Bermuda came back better than ever after using it.  

I've used Roundup and other glyphosate products around my figs and elsewhere around my home and farm and I'm still alive and well and many weeds are dead.  Roundup/glyhposate does work on Bermudagrass.  I've killed lots of it with it.  There are rhizomes that may survive and sometimes sprout back so follow-up spraying is needed.  Glyphosate is a systemic pesticide, meaning it is absorbed by the plant and transferred to other areas of the plant.  If the ground were Bermudagrass is growing has become dry and the growth slowed down, spraying is less effective as the plant is almost dormant and the systemic properties don't work very well.  Glyphosate does not get into the groundwater and is broken down upon contact with soil, though I know that there are reports that say otherwise.  Anybody that wants more free therapeutic weed-pulling can sign up and help out at my place because they can enjoy it full-time the rest of their life because I've got a good supply.

If the stems of your fig trees are still young and tender I would make sure to avoid spray contact.  I have a hand-held shield on a piece of pipe that I use when spraying around young trees of anything.

i coverd the figs with 5 gal buckets then sprayed. no way they got any on them. waited until the spray was dry to remove the buckets. it was in the 90's today with no wind. im sure the figs will be just fine. everything in close to the trees was hand pulled.

Maybe Roundup doesn't kill Bermuda Grass in some other parts of the country but it sure as hell does here my back yard in Central California.

I have used roundup or the generic version. It works great, save me lots of time.

Add another thumbs up for Glyphosphate and thumbs down for Monsanto, Even the Devil himself probably had a good idea. Buy the generic available lots of places. I think Tractor Supply sells a 2.5 gal of 41% for $50 $40 when on sale. That is a lot of dead weeds and I used some I found when I just moved last month from my prior move 20 years ago and still kicked weedbutt. Long shelf live and probably one of the most tested chemicals around so I personally feel safe using it.

If overspray is a concern you can also use an applicator called a red weeder.  I have one and it works flawlessly.  

I have been manually pulling weeds for about two and half years in my 150' x 150' area that I keep under mulch. We do not get a Winter break from weeds instead we just get different weeds, the Winter weeds! Now all this is great and I feel good saying that I am almost organic

BUT

I still must use the Imidacloprid, which is a systemic like Glyosphate is, on my Citrus several times a year for CLM protection and when I say "I have been manually pulling Weeds" I mean I have been Paying to have these weeds pulled. I will not be able to afford the additional labor after I retire so I am forced to come to terms with Glyosphate I have purchased a two and a half gallon container of generic high percentage Glyosphate that I will start trying in the non edible areas of my weed free zone. I'd have to say that I believe that most fruits and vegetables you purchase in stores today have had some form of herbicide used in the fields during their growing season. I understand that you can by certified organic but most of us cannot afford nor do we have the accessibility to these products.

Will I use it on Figs? Maybe but not until they are well established with at least a three inch caliper trunk. With my heavy heavy mulch around them weeds are not much problem in the fig areas.

I have used Round Up around the figs, just 3-4 times. Never lost a plant. You need to spray on a clam night (no-to-little wind), and use a piece of cardboard box as a shield, so it does not get on the leaves.

Navid.

That is why the wipe on applicator like a red weeder works so well.  You use far less of the product and you could apply it in a windstorm and would not matter......when you also add ammonium sulfate to the glyphosphate you use way less as well...is a win win.  

Wills, I've had one of those Red Weeders for about 15 years but have yet to use it.  Most of the time my weeds are too tall of I just have too much of an area to cover.  Maybe I'll need to finally break down and use it this year. ;)

Harvey,

I know what you mean.  My normal course is to use the redweeder around the base of the plants then use a tractor mounted electric sprayer for the edge weeds.  It is just so hard to keep up with the weeds.  The mulch helps and so do the ducks but the weeds they won't eat tend to try to take over.  It is the reason I grow my figs as bushes..I want and need them to shade out what is below them.  

Here is how experienced knowledgeable professionals do it;

Round Up application
then apply  Devrinol once a season.

Takes care of 95%+ of the weeds.

I don't have any experience with Devrinol but use Surlan in my orchards once a year.  Have you compared them to see which is more effective?  Both of these appear to require a pesticide applicator's license/permit to purchase (I did not verify that) so I don't know that they're practical for most growers here.

http://www.cdms.net/LDat/ld6EB005.pdf

Both chestnuts and figs, producing and non-producing are listed on the label for the product in my possession.

The software used by my pest control adviser does not allow recommendations for uses that are not compatible with the pesticide labels.  Quit spreading misinformation about poisoned crops.

Note: that is the Agricultural label, the Specialty label lists only non-bearing fruits and nuts.  Maybe a pesticide applicator's permit isn't required for purchase of this Specialty for of product.

By the way, I've seen restricted use pesticides sold on eBay which is illegal.  I don't suggest doing that.

Jack, you are an idiot.  I gave you the link to the the Agricultural label and it clearly states it is for use on non-producing and producing crops like I indicated above.  As I also indicated above, the Specialty label for the product with the same ingredients indicates it is for non-producing crops only.  You're dangerous, like a drunk driver on the freeway going the wrong way but thinks he knows what he's doing.

Ethics?  Like suggesting folks can find whatever pesticide they want on eBay is really a good idea.  Additionally, I don't find an online label for Devrinol that lists figs nor any broad class of fruits of which figs may be considered a part of.  I may have missed some other manufacturer, I looked at the several forms offered by United Phosphorus, Inc., the same manufacturer of the Surflan I've used.

Moron.  You did catch my typo but you're wrong about everything else.

Since you seem to be unable to click on the link or read the manufacturer's online label (same as on my 2.5 gallon jug), here is an excerpt:

Harvey,

You may not be able convince him although I do not know what else you could do. I tried to cut and paste the sheet but I could not as I don't have a .pdf file editor. Maybe someone who does could do so. It very clearly states for anyone who can read and comprehend the written English language that it is safe for

FIGS and many other fruits, stone fruits and even citrus.

Harvey,

I read the label......you are 100% correct.  

Funny a retired ny cop in nj seems to know more about pesticides in Cali than a commercial farmer?

Here is a link to the ACTUAL MANUFACTURERS LABEL
http://igcusa.com/catalogs/AgriselSurflanPro_label.pdf

Please point out where on this label it states this product can
be used of bearing trees or food crops.
You won't be able to, nor will your know nothing flunkies,
because this product is not approved for that use.
It is for ORNAMENTAL USE ONLY.
Read the label and educate yourself.

What you will find about "bearing crops" is the following
statement on the label :

"+ Non-bearing plants are defined as those that will not bear fruit for at least one year "

You will find that statement right below the list of trees,
same list you posted above, but you neglected to post that line
and added "bearing" trees to the above information, very deceptive of you.

What the above statement means,
is you can treat an orchard that is NOT bearing fruit with this product
You cannot use this product if you plan to HARVEST within a years time.
Meaning its NOT for BEARING crops.
Also means your harvest is not fit for human consumption this year.

Are you aware the active ingredient in this product in a carcinogen in humans ?

Maybe why its not approved for food crops in any way shape or form.
Same reason there are no approved vegetable uses for this product.


Now, who is the idiot ?