tried to post pics. 1Mb too big...... {Been piddling and cropped part of pic out. haven't figured out how to resample the whole pic yet. will fool with that latter.}

New cuttings rooting.
leaves have developed rust.

Course of action:
Cut them off even if they are the only leaf on it?
then spray plant with bonide copper spray.  

Yes also you can pop soil out with plant if it will stay together. And spray soil and inside of pot and soil line. More the better. Neem oil is good preventative medicine once its gone. Rust starts from underside of leaf.

Ugh.  I have this problem right now.  A Smith and a Champagne, both with rust.  I popped off all the leaves on the Champagne first...seemed much more susceptible.  Popped the last one off the Smith this morning.  Real bummer.  The champagne has leafed out again though...no signs of rust yet, but it can take time to develop.  I'll be keeping an eye on this thread....my first real dealing with rust is not a fun one.

Good luck!

I had some bad rust spread through my yard at the end of last summer... such an ugly affliction.  Hopefully It stays away this year.  Good luck and let us know how successful your treatment is.  Cheers.

I cut off all the afflicted leaves..... made me sick doing it.

Im wondering about the whole humidity thing.

I have about 35 cuttings going and have a large rack with plastic around it that I could easily maintain 60 percent humidity in. vs the sometimes 90% in the bins.

Bought some neem oil today as was suggested (thanks Richie) I will read the instructions on it and just apply as directed I guess.

I think I'm going to look into ways without the humidity domes and all. success rate may go down maybe? or they will take longer maybe? but I just don't like the idea of having the potential for everything to get wiped out by some mold or fungus or bacteria, or some of them getting it and then being a futile battle with lots of effort trying to keep it from spreading.

maybe just stick them in some soil in 40-60% humidity and let her rip.

suggestions anyone?

Thanks
Jordan

I wish I could say that keeping humidity low works...I've had problems despite.  My two rusty figlets were moved to inside this winter where humidity has been low, but they still progressed with rust.  That's not to say it didn't slow the spread, or that the leaves weren't already infected and it just got worse...but lowering humidity alone doesn't seem to stop it :-/

Rust on plants is a fungal problem, so I did a little reading on possible remedies.

Colloidal Silver, which I get inexpensively in concentrated form (will give link if you want), to dilute with water, is strongly anti-fungal, anti-bacterial and safe. I have used it for as long as I can remember for myself and my pets. I've successfully used it on every kind of infection, pinkeye, food purification, etc. A little CS mixed with water in small spray bottle could be misted over the leaves.

Another idea is hydrogen peroxide, diluted with water and misted over the plants. This would also be plant and human safe, and should take care of the problem. The HP would even boost plant growth if used in watering.

Hi root,
The Grey border on the leaf would mean sun burn to me or in your case, light burn / light scorch ?
How far away from the plant is your artificial light ? Could be heat from the lamp too . Can you check if you lamp is getting hot / too hot ?

Il measure it in a bit and post. its 4 t5 4foot long fluorescents. 200w total. Id guess 2.75 feet from leaf top, but Il measure and post. I have been curious about that myself. 
Thanks.
I have a IR thermometer I can see if they are too warm also. the area gets to about 74 sometimes but leaf may be getting warmer.
It wouldn't find it unlikely that I'm loving them to death LMAO. Been known to do that often. :)
I might have to sign up for figanon or something.

From light to leaf is 1 foot 9 inches. I did measure leaf temps of 88 deg. I don't know what the spectrum those t5 put out are. (lowesdepo grow lights).  I also don't know what spectrum figs like.

too much light and heat?

That should be a totally safe distance.

Daylight spectrum bulbs at Home Depot work good without getting expensive. I stopped using domes, or plastic cups when I had a gnat infestation. Instead, I keep a spray bottle with water and dampen them every 2-4 days. I sometimes use my finger and a cup of water so the soil doesn't stay too wet. My germ rate, other than the learning curve, is over 90%.

I just took the cuttings out of the 7" humidity dome (probably wasted money) with the little foam like things made out of pete moss (Hydra farm with clonex) and put them in the 1gal pots with pearlite shredded pine bark, pine bark based potting soil and a little azomite. Not sure when I can take lids off without drying up the leaves that are on them. Maybe Il wait 2 weeks or something and do it on weekend when I can watch them. Im very interested in how to do these without the cups over them and bins and humidity domes, like you said Mike. I almost killed them with the hydrofarm thing. In no time roots blasted out of them (most of them) but then turned brown. I may have sprayed them with the copper spray, I cant remember. also they are not getting much benefit from the light with those lids on. Thank you folks for your ideas and suggestions. I now have 2 air layered BT going in front room of house, the whole sun room is now the fig room and the garage is full of stuff for this. This seems to escalate pretty quickly. I hope to get these in the ground on the farm during summer or fall maybe. Just learning really. Its funny because I watched all these YouTube vids for months (interesting) and would think Gahh that guy has fig stuff all over the house, he must be really into it. hahaha... and now......
I need to look at how you do yours mike.

Hi,
88°F is 31°C . IMO, it is a bit too high.
I would rather stay in between 20°C and 25°C so 68°F / 77°F.
I would remove the white foam and replace with a plastic sheet as a cover.
You have those rolls of plastic sheeting for cooking in the oven that you could use to cover your boxes.
Whatever you chose to do, Good luck !

Hi root, first let me tell you what was wrong. Getting potting soil that was outside getting wet. Getting gnats and using product that said "kills on contact", but was useless. Natures Way Insecticidal soap and 3in1. If you hit them with the bottle it might kill them.

By using stuff that did not work, it got completely out of control. Plus, instead of buying the right stuff, I bought more cuttings and so on.

Diatomatious earth helps but it can cake on the leaves and they can die.

Miracle grow with moisture guard. Yes I hear people cringing. Small scale, would still use but start with yellow sticky traps from the start. Any indication of gnats, get pyrethrum concentrate and spray the top soil once, then weekly. Pro mix and Pro mix HP are recommended on the site. If I can get this back under control, anyone can. Water, pay attention, the other negative would be MG weighs more.

When I went to get Pro mix, Agway had Sunshine mix with MYC. This is what I am moving to but cannot give a relationship to germination, because I just started with it last Sunday.

Each shelf has 3 to 4 Fluorescent ballasts with Home Depot Day light spectrum bulbs. You don't need to spend the money on the pink or grow light and I don't think they work as good, through experience.

With that out of the way;

When I get my cuttings I rinse them well.

I keep them in a glass of water, half way up the cuttings for 3-4 days. Change the water, try to, every day. I will flip the cuttings for 1-2 hours here and there, then flip them back.

When ready to plant; I scrape lightly through the green in the bark, to the white on two sides of the cutting @ 1" under and down from where the soil line will be, thicker cuttings three sides.

I put Bontone Rooting compound in a large plastic baggy, wipe moisture off the cutting, still damp, and squeeze the compound onto the cutting. Shake off excess, make the hole and fill around the cutting. I start with 1 gallon containers with 1 to three cuttings in each, soak good and put under the lights.

I did cover with plastic cups on shorter cuttings. Larger ones I would dampen with fingers. Eliminated the cups because of the gnats. Haven't noticed a difference. I keep them on higher/middle shelves. In the North east the concrete floor is cool and the couple of degree difference may help, @65 F

Patience

I have had root nubs start in 2-3 days and started growing in a week. Others up to a month or so.

Don't rush to transplant. The ones I transplanted last week started growing Sept/mid October.

Let the plant develop. Wet the soil thoroughly before separating plants for transplant. Separate the plants carefully.

Will try to get up pics, just not good at that stuff, and have to do from home. Other than don't keep too wet or dry. Cuttings should be at least the thickness of adult male pinky. I think pencil size is too small.
Length 6-8". Second year wood takes awhile. I think fresh cut, before the tree goes dormant is optimal.

  My second big mistake was getting fed up to where I had to use straight alcohol because I didn't know about pyrethrum. Killed a couple of my best gifts and that's what I'm trying to replace. When the wife had a gnat in her coffee it was almost the end of figs for me. Had to do something.
 
Lastly; Pyrethrum spelled with a "y". Spelled "Per" is synthetic and can kill felines I was told.
The pyrethrum, once mixed, needs to be used within 24 hours to remain effective.
 
Once growing well I fertilize with mild miracle grow solution and spray the leave to foliar feed.

I think that's it. If I remember anything else I'll get back to you. I'll see if I can get some pictures up.


                                      Hope this helps, Mike

RUST?!?!?!