I've seen others scrape, scratch, cut, and/or score their cuttings to encourage root growth. I scraped a few few cuttings with a razor only enough to expose the green cambium layer. The scrapes were about 1/2 inch long. Some started to mold and rot where I made the scrapes. Others callused over well but haven't formed any roots. They've been in the moss for over 3 weeks. I made sure to sterilized my tools with bleach, and aerate the bin every day.


What scar's produce better root growth?

The callused area is good...the mold, not so good...I have had many cuttings where the callus never produced any roots, but it stimulated other ares of the cutting to produce abundant roots...other cuttings produced roots directly out of the scored area like a porcupine...the only thing I can recomend with the mold is to wash off the mold (maybe scrub) and treat with a diluted solution of bleach or mold mitigating product from the nursery...good luck with your cuttings.

I have also tried scoring several cuttings that are rooting right now and had similar results so far. The cuttings have been in moss for 4-5 weeks and there is really nice swelling of the cambria in the area of the score and lots of calluses but not really any actual roots. I have not had any problems with mold.

Hey Vince, when you score them, how deep do you go and how many score marks do you make?

I let some fresh air into my bin today, and a pretty nice cutting of Mead wilted in under 4 min. I came back to put the top on and only the Mead cutting was all wilted. I hope it comes back it is such a nice look tree. Any advice on how to transition from high to low humidity?

Hank,
From a few experiments, a narrow score or slices with the edge of a knife have produced the best looking roots. Vince had suggested a punch type can opener (with a V end like a bottle opener), it makes a very good uniform score (gouge).

I am currently placing 1 or 2 scores about an inch long on most of my cuttings, with or without hormone, scoring seems to help. The score is just into the cambium layer. To protect the score from inoculation (bacterial or fungal) in untreated (no hormone) cuttings, I have recently tried an alcohol wash (50% isopropyl) after scoring, and it does not seem to hurt the cutting.

With the Sphagnum Moss Baggie method, I have only had 1 score point become infected (it was not treated with alcohol) out of over 200 cuttings. The damaged (dying) portion was cut off and the 2-node section is currently potted and growing.

I try to maintain a 75deg F. ambient temperature for the cuttings, and most (all) are ready for cups in 2-4 weeks. My cuttings are rooted on the upper shelves of a metal utility cabinet with a small heat source on the bottom shelf.

The cuttings are checked every 2-3 days, and the zip lock bags are inflated. The cuttings that are placed in plastic shoe boxes (the lids do not seal air tight) are also placed inside large sealed clear plastic garbage bags, and checked every 2-3 days. Additional moisture has not been required in the rooting phase if the bags are sealed and only opened to add air and inspect at the 2-3 day interval.

Thanks Pete, that was very helpful information. I think I'm going to try using the v-end bottle opener, like you said. I've been using a razor but I don't think I'm getting enough exposure. I'm also going to dip them in the alcohol and see if that helps with my mold problem. I don't use the sphagnum moss because no store in my area carries it, I currently use Green Moss. Do you think the sphagnum moss would impedes mold better then the green moss?

You're Welcome.
The opener is available at most dollar stores.
The Long Fibered Sphagnum moss has anti mold and anti fungal properties. I purchase the Mosser Lee brand at Home Depot (or Lowes) for under $5.00 for 432 Cu. Inches. If you do a forum search you will find a lot of information on "Sphagnum Moss"

And its reusable.

Thanks Pete, I'll do more research on the sphagnum moss. I think I'll have to special order it.

found this here : http://cru.cahe.wsu.edu/cepublications/pnw0152/pnw0152.html

 For more severe wounding on difficult-to-root types or larger-diameter cuttings, make several vertical cuts. Or remove a thin slice of bark down one or both sides of the base of the cutting. Expose the cambium (the one or two layers of cells between the bark and the wood), but avoid cutting deeply into the wood.

Wounding may stimulate rooting by promoting cell division and more absorption of water or applied root-promoting chemicals, or it may remove tough tissue that prevents outward root growth from the cutting. Wounding is used most often on evergreen plants, but it may be useful on deciduous plants.

Hank...when I score the cutting I just scrape off enough bark to see the green layer that's just beneath it... I only make one score per cutting, and I make it the length between the bottom two nodes.

Mold usually means too much water and not enough air.  Search on Spagnum for the best sources.  Mosser Lee is the worst stuff.  Lowes has orchid moss which is much better.  There are other sources to get even better quality, cheaper by mail order.