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Share 1 tip you've learned that you wish someone had told you in the beginning

Oh gosh another amazing flood of wisdom! Thanks all, again. Praying for rain for the river here in too dry AZ! Hope your Figs and you are enjoying spring. Jodi

Levar

You are a trip. I agree with much of what Levar has said. My advice: Growing cuttings into trees is an extremely time-intensive proposition. If you are a beginner, by all means do not start experimenting on expensive cuttings. It'll take 2-3 years to become well practiced. And you will lose some for sure. So learn the art slowly. Or, if you can afford it, buy reasonably priced trees. Time is money. I have grown many rare trees from scratch and saved myself a lot of money. But it has taken so much time and effort, I am not sure it was worth it. Over and out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by brettjm
Potting soil matters.  A lot.  My first figs got potted up to a mixture of manure, perlite, soil conditioner, and peat moss after rooting.  Many drowned because my ratios were all off, plus soil conditioner+manure+peat made a really sloppy mess when it rained a lot.  Didn't drain worth crap. I now use a TON of sifted perlite (30-40%), as well as manure, pine bark mulch/fines, and a healthy amount of promix (30-40% maybe).  This mix might not be what the pros recommend on this site, but its done excellent for me.  No drowning, no lost leaves due to overwatering, and a TON of growth.

Also, in ground trumps pots, and its not close.  My 3 in ground ones are all weeds.  My RDB has grown 2 feet this year already (after only 3 feet last year), plus another 2 feet of side branches.

So I am sitting in my garden with 2 yr old trees from Home Depot, VdB, Panache, Black Jack and Kadota. Do I keep them in pots w holes buried in ground because Tx everbearing died down to 18 inches or do I bite the bullet and sink these babies in ground for real??

Do the best of both worlds. If you put alot of long slices in the pot and burry the pot permanently. You will see there is no shock or loss of fruit.
Now you have to do better winter protection. ; )

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  • Jodi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by figpig_66
Do the best of both worlds. If you put alot of long slices in the pot and burry the pot permanently. You will see there is no shock or loss of fruit.
Now you have to do better winter protection. ; )
ya the winter protection! The tx ebs were so wrapped up leaves, tarps, insulation etc and still died down to 18". It gets cold here down to 14'. That's my dilemma.

I live in Louisiana so no winter protection
ideas. I seen videos on peps putting 4 poles around the tree. Wrapping the poles with burlap and filling it with dried leaves then tarping that. Wow. I have 40 plus in ground tree. They would die each year and recover. Lol. .

So Richie how cold doesn't get w no winter protection? U r saying u have die back and recovery??

No. I dont really have winter. Hot humid. Never snows or freeze. Maybe a 8 hour freeze. Now and then

Never grow on concrete...

What's wrong with growing on concrete? I was just thinking of doing just that.

Probably a heat issue on pot and roots.

Stains the concrete? In northern latitudes pavement can be helpful for the extra heat.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DevIsgro
Never grow on concrete...


What do you mean? 

I'm gonna assume that you might mean that heat could "cook" the trees or something. I have to say that I only grow figs in pots on concrete and all of my trees are fine. I live in 10b so my trees are well acquainted with extreme heat.

I think part of the success is due to that the trees are spaced together so as not to expose too much of any one pot to sun for an extended period. And after about two months into the growing season, the tree foliage provides good shade for the pot. 

I suppose had I just left a small number of pots overexposed to the sun and with inadequate shade, the rootball would dry out much more quickly and perhaps even damage the roots. I'm guessing, though. 

However, hoosierbanana is right about the stains; you must be diligent about cleaning up after yourself.
 

Get a couple trees that will perform well in-ground in your climate. Even if you don't keep in-ground trees, you can give them to friends and family that will. 

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  • Sas

If you take a vacation make sure that your plan includes irrigation while you're away.
Start slow and don't buy to many in the first few years unless you gain enough experience with what you've got.
If you believe that you will be moving in the next couple of years, don't get too many.
If you have a large space, try some other fruit trees beside figs.
Can anyone recommend a compound to clean up the concrete, or should I hire a professional?





Drip irrigation for potted trees!

Chicago 5b

Quote:
Originally Posted by greenfig
If you collect the figs because somebody said it was one of the favorites, make sure you do not have it already. The same fig may go by a different name, like VdB, Negronne, Nero 600M, Petit Negri, etc. ; almost all the Mt Etna figs are identical like Hardy Chicago, MBVS and about 15 more. It is better to have 10 that produce reliably than 100 with fancy names. If you are in California z10 or similar and with the wasp, about 70% of things discussed on the forum will be different for you, including the fig taste, look and the rooting procedures.


Amen to the multiple names thing. It can be an expensive problem to not research for synonyms first.

Over the years I have learned several things. Don't wait till Jan. or Feb. in zone 7 to take your cuttings. Wait till they are fully dormant but take them in  November.  They  have more vigor and are more forgiving of newbie miscalculations.

Don't start them too early. Late Feb. through early April work best for the climate here. I can move them out in late April or early May and slowly transition them into full sunlight before it gets too warm.

Don't throw out the ones hiding in the bottom of the veggie drawer that you do not discover till August. They will start just as successfully. They may be too small to survive a long period of dormancy the first winter but they do well as house plants with a little light and some misting to supplement what mother nature provides. They take off like gangbusters when moved outside and may outperform their peers started earlier in the previous year.

The last thing for newbies is to never get discouraged. All of us are continually improving our skills and a rough start does not mean you cannot be successful. If you love figs, keep learning from your mistakes.  Start with common varieties suitable for your area and work toward adding more exotic cultivars as your skills increase.  Once you have your first tree or two going, normal pruning will give you plenty of guinea pigs with which to further develop your propagating skills. Most of the time when you give away a tree, a friend or family member learns about the joy of fresh figs.

Don't cover the ends of cuttings with wet paper towels. Start wrapping an inch or so above the cut. Otherwise they rot.

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