my inital effort to espalier my in-ground smith (single sides + no structure building) japanese style. several posts [1][2] describe it. frank (fmd) also has a single sider with no support.

JD, how you think the Japanese make the main trunk grow all those spurs? My fig tree does not want to brunch out, much less branches where leaves should be growing.  I am trying that also, and my spurs are too far from one another..Wonder if I should be grafting new branches...

Cool.  Good luck with it.

Looks good JD.

I like it. Very cool.

Grasa,

I believe it is a) the nature of the tree coupled with b) selecting strong shoots and c) providing a structure/framework for those shoots to grow upwards. The nature of Smith seems to fit this Japanese growing method. What are variety you trying to espalier?

If I had given this a bit more thought or even if I could have remembered, then I definitely had enough shoots on both sides of the trunk to attempt some of the U-shape. I had candelabra in my head.f they grow back, I will keep them.

Addressing your point directly and more wordy: I am not sure this matters because I believe that you are growing in ground, right? Nonetheless, the nodes on this particular Smith tree are spaced about 1-1.5" apart and I rub off to maintain a 3-4" spacing. I have also found that both well-cared for and even neglected trees in pots regular water and nutrients of mine (specifically Bealle, Black Madeira, Hardy Chicago, Kilmartin Celeste, MVSB, Smith, Socorro Black, and Stallion Unknown) grow more quickly than the trees planted in the ground. As a result, the internodal spacing is greater in the potted trees. 

Jimmie, great start!   That's a nice thick trunk.  How long has the tree been in the ground? 

Once you are done with that one you will need to drive over and help me espalier the fig hedges (you own a good portion). :}}

JD, ... Thanks for posting. Please keep us updated.

Grasa, ... The Japanese method uses the "apical dominance" of plants to grow all those side branches. The trick is to keep the main branch completely horizontal and remove the "apical" tip on that branch. That's why there is a horizontal trellis in all the pictures of the Japanese stepover espalier. The plant will send out buds along its entire length to try and get a dominant apical branch.  This is similar to commercial apple tree pruning where dominant branches are removed or laid horizontal.

The Japanese also remove the strongest growing vertical bud and leave the weaker one (selected from the two at each vertical) to delay (stop) apical dominance in any individual vertical branch. The vertical supports are to keep the vertical branches upright and from breaking under their own weight (think tomato plants).

Thanks Pete S you gave a bunch of good info in your post. I am also thinking of this form of growth for some  of my trees. Please keep all of us posted on the progress this tree makes . I am not sure how to get a fig to this point in the picture but have a year or two to learn. Any info is welcomed.

Zone 8
South West TX

Interesting. What varieties are good to use Japanese style? 

very nice

on these pictures, you can see how they use soft string, to secure the fruiting branches , sorta like tomatoes in a greenhouse

http://www.hawaiifruit.net/cf/index.html

It is my understanding that when your figtree is tall enough with all side branches remove, you start the bending process till it is horizontal. You then keep the tip down to the ground and then raise the center  higher then the tip, this will force branching, you have to pinch back vigorous branches.

My Smith is to small to judge but LSU purple is a good variety for espalier, because it has a tendency to branch out a lot, almost like a  tomato vine. Begin by making it a tree structure, then cut the leader and new branches come out to begin your espalier.