Having read lots of postings over the last few months about rooting hormone, and having minimal success with more "traditional" shoebox and moss techniques, I decided to give the hormones a try.
These results have less scientific merit than some of the other recent postings -- I had a bunch of different cuttings (different varieties, different ages/freshness) and I switched scoring/slicing techniques midway through preparing them -- so there isn't much of an "approach A" vs. "approach B" comparison to be made here.  These are pictures of the best of the bunch so far -- most of the others are slower to show progress (older cuttings, low temps).
  These pictures are of two groups of three cuttings: Osbourne Prolific on the left and Black Jack on the right (unless otherwise noted).  The cuttings were scraped to expose some inner bark and treated with Dip-N-Grow.  These pictures were taken after 4 weeks of being in a shoebox of sphagnum moss in a not-very-warm environment (high 60's, low 70's).  They actually looked very healthy and good-to-go after 3 weeks, but I didn't have the time to move them to cups until now.  The roots are a bit browner and a bit more unruly at this point. 
Jim

Jim,
Thanks for posting your results.

What dilution was used on the cuttings?
Keep in mind that those cuttings are using up their energy reserves right now growing those massive roots.
I'm now advocating 1-2, 1 inch long scores (slice) only, since conducting my rooting hormone tests, and the scoring seems to work with and without hormone (increases callusing).

Good Luck

Nice roots. Were they all treated with Dip and Grow? at what dilution?

Thanks.

I do mine with a single score i find it works best for me. gets a nice root mass fast and saves some energy. i mainly root right in the cups. as i have said before i cant get the baggie thing to work for me. when i use dip n grow its at a 1-10 ratio on average. if i have really hard then i go 1-7. I had good results when i first started doing this three years ago that i treat every cutting this way. i do still lose some, but those treated eather thrive or dont root. then there is the gnat which is responsible for my than 90% of my cutting death rate. so far i have lost 15 out of 200. with 3 being me scoring to deep and no roots forming. the remaining 12 had wonderful roots that the gnat worms loved to munch on.

I used to use dip and grow for most of the other cuttings I've started over the years. I also used to score the sides of cuttings too. But I ran out, and I kept reading rooting hormones didn't matter for figs, so I didn't go looking for it. But now I have some again and think I'm going to try it since people have been posting such good/fast results. I've had very good luck rooting figs thus far, but 'better' is even better. :)

I also don't use the baggie method either, or moss, but put the cuttings directly into containers with half perlite, half planting mix. Then after rooting in bins with lights, they stay in the original container through acclimation to full outdoor sun, and until they have enough roots for transplanting to gallons or larger. The fewer steps, the less that can go wrong.

The Dip-N-Grow dilution was 10X or possibly slightly more concentrated -- hard to control exactly when dosing small amounts.  (That Dip-N-Grow bottle has a tendency to dribble ;-)

I did some other cuttings at the same time and switched to slices for them.  Some are finally showing activity, some are slow to do anything.  This should not be taken as an argument for scraping vs slicing.  They were older cuttings, stored in the fridge for a while, and unfortunately I don't have great temperatures where I stash my shoeboxes.  It was a very uncontrolled "apples vs oranges" activity

I guess perhaps the "more is better" approach doesn't hold 100% for growing roots on cuttings, huh?  I hope I didn't overdo it.  Some of these cuttings are pushing out leaf buds, so that's a good sign.  But most of the cuttings were still trying to push out roots along other scores -- hard to see from the pictures.

Jim

heh, heh.  Don't thank me...I'm just a newbie standing on the shoulders of giants.  I was just happy to have some interesting pictures to post.  It was too bad I couldn't/didn't take more pictures along the way at the various stages, because it was interesting to see.
  I certainly believe it when people say that figs don't need rooting hormones.  But my environment/setup just wasn't doing anything for me with the usual approaches.  I would have been ecstatic to see any kind of roots on anything after two weeks with any of the usual techniques.  I think/hope the hormones are just giving me an edge to make something happen with the cuttings before the usual problems get a chance to creep up.

  With the advice of ascpete and garden_whisperer, I will cut back on the number of slices I'll make in the future.  I don't know if there is a correlation with the number of slices, but some of the cuttings were so callused up it was almost grotesque!  I almost didn't want to plant some of them just so that I could wait and see what happens to those areas.  (They were bursting with roots at their edges...would roots have burst out in the middle?)

  I should also add that the roots seemed very, very robust and strong.  Because I waited so long and had all 6 cuttings side by side about 1 inch or less apart in the shoebox, many of the roots had grown together.  It took some wiggling and jiggling, but I managed to get them apart seemingly without any damage at all.  Occasionally I would hear a little snap, but I actually think it was the sphagnum moss fibers that were stuck to the roots getting ripped!
Jim

You can go to walmart and get a shringe from the med department for a buck, i use them when doing my plant tissue culture stuff.

Hey Jim, you say that your shoe box area is not that warm 60's-70's. i have the same problem but i have found that setting the cuttings on top of the fridge in my case a stand up deep freeze gives enough underwarmth to get the job done. all rooting takes place up there then once the cuttings are well rooted they move four foot away under the grow light. the light i keep on 24-7 so they still get some while in the rooting phase. but that underwarth is important. the only cutting i have had to wait awhile on is VdB i have gotten cuttings from a few sorces and all seem to be slow rooters. you get that somtimes. any how i hope this helps.

I have a future propagation test i will be doing once i get what i need to do it. should be fun and i will keep everybody posted.

I must have a high-efficiency fridge in my kitchen, because it just doesn't get warm up there at all :-(  I have an older fridge down in the basement that probably throws off more heat, but it is also cold on top (from being in the basement.)

I'll have to remember to get some syringes or droppers next time I'm at a Walmart or pharmacy.  I do believe that will help out.

Man, I just can't believe it.  Last September I was all "This is great!  All I need is a plastic bag and some paper towels and I can root all the cuttings I want!"  Now I'm soaking/scrubbing cuttings in antibacterial soap and bleach, spraying with Physan 20, dipping tips in melted wax, treating with rooting hormone, buying expensive sphagnum moss, putting cups in bins under shoplights and over heating mats, marking things with paint pens...  The guys at Home Depot the other day thought I was crazy looking for mosquito dunks (to handle fungus gnats) in January.  ..."you're about 4 months too early, buddy...."

...a couple of syringes or droppers....that's all I need. ;-)
Jim