Here in Arizona the temperatures are up in the 90's.  All of my figs are continuously putting out new growth.  I believe that all of them are healthy.  But some of them look stressed by the heat, while others do not.  Why is that?  Is it that some varieties just look more stressed by the heat, regardless of their health?  I am wondering if other growers have this same experience.  If not, then I must be doing something wrong.  I water my plants about every 3rd day at this time of year.  I give a generous amount of water, filling up the basin that the plant grows in.

How do I get these photos to show?

Figured it out.  Had to look up an old post where Jason explained to me how to do it.

I don't know if this will make you feel better or not.

I have a southern exposure with a micro-climate that reflects the sun off the vinyl siding. The temps get up there even for being int the NE. The sun for two days straight was intense even for here. Most of the trees did not look stressed but some did.

Not stressed was my VDB ( small) and Lsu Gold ( large).

But I had a few that I moved to shade after drooping pretty bad:

JH Adriatic
Battaglia
Lampeira

The soil for all was moist.

To my eyes only the VDB and Gold look stressed. The others look close to fine, maybe just a little more water.

Hi Joe,

I am west of you in Lake Havasu.  I have 3 VDB also, 9 mission, and a kadota.

Check your trees in the morning and see how they look.   My VDB's and   my missions in full sun get that wilted look also in the afternoons, but perk back up in the cooler mornings.
   
Last year when they were first year in the ground plants I watered them every other day when daytime temps stayed above 100, and sometimes daily when daytime temps were staying above 110.   It doesn't hurt to give them a little time under shade cloth (to protect against afternoon sun)  either in their  first summer.  This year so far I am watering once a week for the most part.   Deep soaks.  Two of the missions a little more often because they are on an exposed and fast draining ridge composed  mostly  of rock and sand.

I have mulched heavily around most of my trees.   I would suggest you do that as well.  It will help with moisture retention and also keep the roots cooler.  You want 5-6 inches deep in a three foot ring all around your tree.  The tree should be in a "doughnut hole" maybe six or eight inches diameter with no mulch against the trunk.

Thisisme should weigh in on this soon.   He lives closer to you and has much more experience dealing with our  desert conditions than I do.

I would counsel more and deeper mulch. Can do wonders. However, ymmv.

I only have an inch or 2 of mulch.  Sounds like I need some more mulch.  But why are the plants still growing and putting out fruit?  It's like they look stressed but keep growing anyway.

Some of mine do the same thing.  Every now and then I also notice a few shriveled and dried up leaves.   Our humidity is real low right now and will be for the next couple of days.  We are also supposed to be getting wind gusts up to 40 mph.   This may have something to do with it.

I think that first year in ground in our area is crucial.   Our conditions are severe, and it takes a couple of years for root systems to develop and go real deep into the ground where the water doesn't dry out so fast.

Just my thoughts...I don't claim to be an expert. 

But do mulch your trees real heavy.  It makes a big difference in the desert.

We had the same issue here earlier this week, at 95F.

Some factor could be differences in watering, or differences in the ability of the soil to hold water, or the root development on a particular tree

Here is issue was 95F, less than 10% humidity and a 20 mph breeze. Almost everything had droopy leaves. The problem was that a combination and low humidity was too much for the tender new growth so early in the season. As soon as it cooled down and the humidity returned all was well, with very little actual damage.

Leaf shape and texture are factors too. The leaves of trees that grow and have evolved in arid regions look and function a bit different than leaves that evolved in a rainy climate.............so, some leaf shapes, thickness, or textures are by Mother Nature's grand design just a bit better to handle drier conditions. IMO, that is one reason why some varities are more likely to look heat stressed than other varieties.

However, that ground sure looks dry to me. I would venture that your tree would love a bit more water even though it seems to be coping with its current conditions.

Dan
Semper Fi-cus  

A little water to the stressed trees will help a lot.
In Arizona heavy mulching is a must.
Here in NJ,fig trees do not like any hotter than 95F,day.
Of course they have plenty of water in the soil,all the time,but I still see some drooping leaves,on the hottest days.
Watch the fruits,on stressed trees.
They will drop off if trees not watered.

It would be interesting to actually measure the temperature of the bare ground in that Arizona climate.  

Keep this in mind.......that ground temperature CAN GET HOTTER THAN THE AIR TEMPERATURE. So, it is not just about "air temperature" alone..... it is also about ground temperature too.....mulching helps keep the ground temperature lower and holds more moisture in.

If I grew all of my figs in containers (i.e. pot culture) in zone 9, I would grow them in WHITE pots because white pots do not get as hot as black pots. And I would try to find white colored pots that were made out of styrofoam......but, that's just me and how I think.


Dan
Semper Fi-cus 

Even in white pots they fry here in Arizona.  I put my pots inside of larger pots to keep the sun off the pot itself, and even then I have them on my front porch.  They get morning  sun for five or six hours and that is all.  And they still look stressed when daytime temps start going above 110.  Trees in pots for the most part don't do real well here.

And again...my first year in ground trees all got some quality time under 60% shade cloth last year...protection from the afternoon sun, which is brutal here.

We've all ready had some 100 degree days this year, and soon temps will be over 110 day after day after day.   The trees need some protection that first year.

If I practiced pot culture in that hot Arizona climate, I probably would have me an area with that green house shade-cloth strung overhead to keep "some" of the sun rays and heat off of my fig containers. Styrofoam is insulating and will not conduct heat to the potting soil as much as plastic or clay pots. But, I can definitely see where double potting can work too.

Dan
Semper fi-cus

Dan,

Where does one get those styrofoam pots?  I'm thinking of buying some cheap foam coolers to line the backside of the little fence I'm thinking of putting up to shade the pots and the lower part of the trees.

Thanks,

noss

Noss,

I'm not into pot culture at all; so, don't really know where you can buy them. But, I have seen round shaped 5 gallon Styrofoam buckets before. I would assume the square or rectangular shaped ones that you see in the stores and sold as a cheap ice chest might work on a temporary basis.  However, these are not a "compressed" form of Styrofoam and not as strong as the bucket types that I have seen. The "compressed" ones are much stronger and would likely last longer in pot service. That high insulating factor of Styrofoam would keep the roots cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter. IMO, cooler roots in summer would be very beneficial to container grown fig trees growing in our hot climate.

I have seen some light weight colored "planters" before at either Lowe's or Walmart and from their weight and texture they looked to be made out of Styrofoam. Styrofoam is such a superior insulator that even a color other than white should work well too.  Accordingly, if I couldn't find white Styrofoam....I would definitely go with whatever color they had. They would be much better than those "black" plastic containers. And, if I only had plastic containers to work with......they would definitely be painted white. Black just absorbs too much heat in our zone.

Dan
Semper Fi-cus

Joe, those trees need water!  In a couple years you won't have to worry about that but for now, those roots are getting too hot and the leaves are curling up to the sky to block some of those rays....at least that's what I think.  My VdB does the same them in pots on my deck.  I had a few in ground trees that do that too plus my inground trees are on a hill so, they need more water. 

To me, when the leaves of a fig tree curl up like that, it is saying, "Can I have a drink of water please?"  cheers,

Thanks, Dan.  I would just paint a pot if it were dark in color.

I'm thinking of using the cheap coolers with the flat sides to stick on the back side of the fence, if I make it, to shade the trees and bottoms of the trees.  The smaller pots that are in back of the larger ones, out front, are faring better and I think it's because the pots are shaded.

noss

my negronne did the same thing. it's in a pot. i moved it out of the sun, and put in on my front porch. now the leaves are fine after about 5 days. i haven't watered it in last 5 days, the soil is still moist.

when i left the pot in the sun, after 2-3 days the soil will be dry, and the weather here has been around mid to high 70.

how much sun does negronne need? if it needs full day of sun, i'm thinking it will need to be watered almost every day.

pete