I am planning to put in a trial stepover fig planting, similar to what others here on this forum have started.  I have read over various threads on this subject:
by WillsC: http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post?id=6161699
by ascpete: http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post?id=6297347
with pics of Japanese orchard: http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post?id=6266830
linked pictures: http://www.hawaiifruit.net/togofig/index.html

My question is regarding when to plant the small cuttings I have rooting now into the ground and start the project.  Should I:
(1) plant them in ground this year, pinch at 16 inches, and start the two planned cordons along a guide rail this year. 
(2) plant in ground this year, let grow to get healthy roots and bigger main trunk, then prune at desired level in fall and cover for winter, start cordons next year
(3) keep in pot this year to get established roots and main trunk, then plant in ground and prune to desired height next year

Maybe none of these ideas are wrong, but one might work better.  Given my relatively short growing season compared to WillsC's, I am not expecting quite as much vigorous growth right off the bat.

I have 4 aluminum rails that were used as tracks for sliding awning covers over my patio, each is 14' long with hardware at each end for mounting to a 4x4 post - I plan on making 2 28 ft long raised bed plantings using them as the horizontal rails, with 2 fig plants espaliered on each piece of rail.  Each of the 2 cordons per plant will then extend abt 3.5 ft to either side of the trunk. 

For those of you alrady growing figs this way, do you think you need supports for the growing upright fruiting branches (like seen on the Japanese fig orchard pics)?

Pruning leaves a lasting scar. The bigger the cut, the bigger the scar. I've been told if removing material to shape a tree, do it as soon as it is evident the material needs to be removed. So I would go with #1.

Hi eebone,
Because you're in zone 6, I would start it in a pot.
If you don't have place and patience, then start it in ground.
I would let it grow just guiding it for 2 of 3 years and then prune.
Which cultivar will you be using ?
If your season is short, I wouldn't pinch like in  (1). The problem being that the tree will start branching and that late new growth would be lost in your winter because it didn't had time to harden.

Assuming all of my currently rooting cuttings make it, I will be using 8 different varieties: likely Sals EL, Black Jack, Osborne Prolific, Lattarulla, Hardy Chicago, and 3 hardy unknowns obtained on this forum - 3 from this group - Unk Dominicks, Unk Sweet Diana, Unk Rocco Carabatta or Unk Abington.  I can add more plantings later or replace underperformers based on what works or not.  This method really appeals to me due to the ability to protect in winter.
 
Also, I will be putting in a couple more types to grow in bush form and some will keep in containers from a number of other varieties.

Ed,
All three options would work, but IMO, #3 has more advantages (as mentioned) than the other two options in colder zones. With any of the 3 options used, growing as a single main trunk for the first 6 months will increase the main trunk caliper faster, which will translate to faster, larger growth and earlier fig production after its cut (pruned).

From observations, the 1st season verticals may need support, but after the 2nd or 3rd season vertical branch support should not be needed for most cultivars.
Good Luck.

Another 'stepover' orchard question for those with experience and understanding

In the method outined in the Japanese greenhouses, they use a single horizontal cordon extending out in one direction, not the branched cordons extending in opposite directions.  Rethinking the options, using that method, would it allow me to plant the tree in ground this year, bend the trunk to the support rail, maximize growth this season without having to prune back to the 16-18 inch mark (losing a season of growth basically), then next year continue training the apical growth to the rail till it is filled in (?7-9 feet between trees)?

What are the advantages or disadvantages to using this method with a single unidirectional cordon as opposed to what I originally outlined with 2 branched opposite cordons?

Ed,
I don't read Japanese, but from Google Translate I gather that the single cordons seemed to be the earlier tests and less prolific cultivars. Whether dual cordons or single cordon you can still train individual sections horizontal and vertical as pictured in the attached document page 14...  http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/file?id=1401311
With a single cordon you may be able to get the entire single main trunk in one growing season if grown vertical first.