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subirrigation containers and figs


  Have had great success in 2010 with creating some do it yourself subirrigation containers and using to grow figs had larger crops and figs and less work. Curios if others fig enthusiasts use SIP(subirrigation planters) and their thoughts. Would encourage others to at least try it if use containers for figs. I compared fig trees in SIPS vs. those not growing in SIPS and i was amazed at the difference in production. Again look forward to dialogues on this topic if there is an interest in it.


  Duane 

I have no experience but am intrigued.
Tell me about your system.

Kyle

Hi Duane ,
I think you are right sub irrigated containers are great. Been using them for 6 or 7 years.
Almost all my figs are in sub irrigated containers , 5 gallon bucket version. And a couple in 20 gallon sub irrigated pots copied after the containers shown in Bill's Figs link here on the F4F site.

This is only my second year with figs so I can't say much about comparative production of figs , but I have 60 buckets (sub irrigated) of veggies that are so productive , I figured same approach would be good for figs. 

Perhaps even better would be what many have mentioned here ,a sort of container/in ground planting hybrid : pots with many holes in sides only , planted in ground after soil warms and dug up for storage for the Winter.
If I had garden space , I would do this.
Look forward to hearing what you are doing.

Welcome to the forum.
Best,
Kerry
Zone 5 NH

I did my own version of a self watering pot after looking at several different construction videos on you tube and such. I did a trial with six fig trees two of each variety. One in the self watering pot and one in a regular pot. All were planted in same media at same time placed next to each other and watered the same with a controlled drip irrigation system. The trees in the self watering pot grew three times the size of the ones in the regular pot. I was totally amazed at the size difference of these trees. I now will put all my one of a kind trees into a self watering pots.


  Nice to hear some feedback on the subject of SIPS(SUB IRRIGATED PLANTERS FOR FIGS) Like you Kerry my figs were a natural advancement based on the outstanding results i have been getting from growing vegetables for a few years in SIPS. Most of my vegetable SIPS were made out of throw away 5gallon buckets from local landfill and now the younger figs are in them as well however the "big boys" like Hardy Chicago and Sals needed a larger SIP container. I had googled and found some information i believe at URBAN GREEN on using perforated drain tile the 6-8 inch diameter type from Lowes or home depot it is that long flexible black plasic material you see if that helps as a description. I took a large tote from walmart and coiled a section of the perforated pipe  into a circle in the bottom of the tub then at roughly 4 inches up i drilled a quarter inch hole through bucket and into perforated pipe inside. this is the overflow hole so you cannot overwater and water resevoir stays at 4 inch level while most of the figs roots stay sitting on top of the pipe so air can get to the root system the center of the perforted tile becomes the wick for the rest of the soil in the tud that is the "donut hole" left in the middle contacts the water reserve and through capillary action absorbs water into the rest of the soil in the tub thus watering the fig tree. In addition based on the principles of SIPS i take recycled water bottled pushed inside one another to create a funnel that goes into the large coil in the bottom of the pot i use duct tape to create a tite seal where this make shift funnel connects to perforated tile in bottom of container. Then filled with soil(soilless mix promix best for cappilary action) and planted tree arouind the circle of the tub i ran basic and cheap all purpose veggie fertilizer in a circular band around outside then prevented rain from hitting it by running tinfoil around top of pot and molding over lip edge of container all watering is done via the water bottle funnel so water never is applied from the top it goes directly to the water reserve and you know when to stop watering when a little spout of water shoots out of the overflow hole. It is like 90percent water efficient and no fertilizing needed after initial plant banding of fertilizer. I have left the house for a week and come back to incredibally healthy and productive figs. In the past i would have wilted leaves at times if i left only for a few days in the summer and had not made plans with a friend to water trees. I LIKE IT and saves me a tremendous amount of labor throughout the season granted it takes some labor to design these useful containers but once designed the benefits are phenomenal in my opinion. This year i plan to try some other desing and planter shapes as well as one using an organic fertilizer to note differences, health, and taste of figs. Anyway try it sometime and compare to your current containerized system for those using containers................ Again look forward to more dialogues and at some point will have my tech savvy daughter take a picture as of date very cold in Northern N.Y. 5F hopefully spring is around the corner:0)

Duane

Duane ,
Thanks for the explanation of how you make your SIP containers.

I have used the 18 gallon Rubbermaid totes to make veggie containers and thought of using them for figs , but I found they broke down from sun exposure after 3 years. I could have wrapped them somehow to protect from the sun , but neglected to do so. Perfect timing to root prune and change containers anyway.

Any pictures of making them ? I'll check on the Urban Green site.

Have you had a chance to look at the Bills Figs link on F4F. It is interesting how he makes the resevoir. He has a nice system for moving the heavy pots as well.
My thinking has been to keep most figs in 5 gallon SIPS until need to root prune then move into larger pot SIPS like Bill's , if they prove to be keepers.
I am growing all of mine using an organic approach. It has worked well for the veggies and it is all I've done for the last 30 years.
BTW , one thing I noticed , The variety Florea which I think Herman said really wants an extra well drained site , did not perform as well as others in the 5 gallon SIPS. It may be that those varieties where it is emphasized that they want a really well draining site may not be the best candidates for SIPS.
Or it could just be the overflow hole was temporarily blocked !
One Florea I have growing in an 8" deep bulb crate grew very well.
All other varieties I have loved the SIPS.
Best ,
Kerry

Never ceases to amaze me what we do to get the best out of our plants.
Its fun though none the less.


  Kerry no pictures yet however should probably do it a picture is worth a thousand words especially in the case of SIPS. I have not found bills link on figs 4 fun yet again i am new to this so maybe i am overlooking something right in front of me. Is there a quick way to get to it? I would be very interested in learning more on the organic approach in your SIPS especially if it generates good yields. Do you still place nutrients on top of the soil layer in the SIP in a band like the synthetic fertilizer or is it different curious?  Everytime i use synthetic chemicals i feel i am just contributing to a broken nutrient cycle like so much of mainstream America and would really like to foster a more closed nutrient cycle especially with the subirrigation systems in short if it is organic and as good or better then synthetics i am all ears....  I agree i only put my tried and trued varieties for my area in the large subirrigation containers lots of work to create them and move around so want to make certain i am going to get a good and tasty crop.... Oh also i have used SIPS to assist with airlayering both figs and grapes since they don't require the constant watering regiment and greatly foster rooting in the airlayering process.......

Duane

Hey Duane ,
For Bill's Figs info go to the figs4fun.com homepage,on the left click on Growing Tips, the third selection down takes you to his container growing info, called Caring for Fig Trees.

If you haven't seen the Earthtainer site , it is very worthwhile.Look for the New Earthtainer III Construction Guide on the Gardenweb Growing Tomatoes Forum or on the Container Growing Forum .You have probably seen it referred to on the Inside Urban Green site.
Ray Newstead is the fellow who explains how to make the earthtainers and the soil mix he uses I think is 6 parts Pro mix BX( or Sunshine mix #4) and 1 part perlite(coarse or supercoarse I guess)

I have been using the organic equivalent of Pro Mix BX which for me in NH is Potting Mix from Ideal Compost Co. or FortLite Mix from Vermont Compost Co. mixed with extra perlite and various organic fetilizers , don't have my mix recipe in front of me right now.

Tapla (Al) who contributes to various forums has put out a lot of good info on growing in containers and I have learned a lot from that ,but I prefer to grow organically so I adapt what I can from his info.

Have to admit I don't follow the fertilizer banding idea for SIPS even though that is the recommended way for organic fertilizers as well. I make batches of my mix with fertilizers added in. Early or mid season side dressings of organic fertilizer may be left just on the surface . I also like to allow the rainwater free access to the containers , so I don't use a plastic mulch on top. Sometimes I even water from the top a bit before I fill the resevoir.
Even someone like me who doesn't always follow directions perfectly has good results with SIPS.
Thanks for sharing your Sips info and experience.
Can I ask what your most productive and reliable variety is ? I think we are in the same zone.
Best ,
Kerry


  Kerry many thanks on how to get to Bills Figs link and others you mention as soon as i complete this thread am going to check it out. In my last entry i mentioned i used the SIPS for airlayering actually i meant to say layering since i redirect a branch or vine into a drilled hole just under the soil line in the bucket. Huge thanks on your exploration into utilization of the SIPS without fertilizer band. I plan on using some comparisons with a bucket with vermicompost worked into top layer, another with Rabbit Compost worked in, a third with a blend, a fourth with a consumer brand of miracle grow "organic" fertilizer, and then of course contrast with the existing system of synthetic fertilizer. I will also try watering from the top  down in addition to filling resevoir with the organic SIP approach as well since makes sense unlike the synthetic should not burn roots if watered some from top down.
     Thanks for your experiences with SIP and sharing info on it i think it is a relatively new concept and now just starting to get into the mindset of mainstream gardening America i think the SIPS are a great creative pallette to work from in not only recycling what we view as (waste bottles,buckets,etc.) but the creative designs and potential is really fun IMO and efficiency is amazing.  Would have to say the three at this point four are about most reliable for me with my 18 year old big boys containerized Hardy Chicago and Abruzzi figs giving me lots of fig and then slightly younger trees Sals and Brooklyn dons very close to the amount i am getting from the latter i suspect as age and container size increase this will go up as well. These four allow me to enjoy figs consistently even on cooler years...........

Many thanks,

Duane

Here is my version (25 gallon pot) of what duane talked about in post # 5 of this thread.
The perforated pipe is 4"
The scaps of burlap may not be necessary.
Drain holes are drilled 3" up on the sides just like my normal Bills Figs containers. (Some pictures of those in use included, if these pics post for me this time)
I built another one a week ago and it seems to function well.

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Hello,

 Ive been using difference types of sip systems for a few years and the difference is incredible, the only draw back is that the roots grow so rapidly that any pot 10 gal. or smaller the roots become very root bound after 1 season,but other than that i love It and the figs really respond to this method,every fig tree in a sip has figs on it in my collection.

Geo

Awesome information that I have been needing to see.  Thanks duane + drivewayfarmer

Thanks duane and drivewayfarmer, I have been thinking about using these myself and this information is really helpful.

Very informative topic.  Thanks for bringing it back to life!

did somone compare it to automatic irrigation system 
automatic irrigation gives steady slow drips of water which doesnt wash the nutrients out of the roots like in SIPS-might give same results?

Eli, I use auto drip irrigation in SWPs.  Works amazingly sweet!

Kerry, thanks for the pics. Every time I see the photos of your figs it makes me droooool. LOL

Found this link:
http://albopepper.com/30-gallon-tote.php
Has nice pics and a soil list.

Thanks for the link, I used it today to make some planters for tomatoes/peppers. I am going to try them side by side with my normal draining planters and see how the yields compare.

Those are some great DIY ideas .

Quote:
Originally Posted by drivewayfarmer
Here is my version (25 gallon pot) of what duane talked about in post # 5 of this thread.
The perforated pipe is 4"
The scaps of burlap may not be necessary.
Drain holes are drilled 3" up on the sides just like my normal Bills Figs containers. (Some pictures of those in use included, if these pics post for me this time)
I built another one a week ago and it seems to function well.



Thanks!  I'm going to try something like this using just a 5 gal bucket.  Also going to try to add a water level indicator that can be seen on the outside of the bucket.

Hello,

This is my first post. My name is Giacomo Calabrese I live in Henderson NV and work as a casino floor supervisor at Caesars Palace. Thanks for everyone's beautiful pics, experienced growing and care information as reasonable auctions in acquiring great figs. I also build some SIP's based on Bill's 22 1/2 " Whiskey Barrel model I modified to build easier for me. I hope it helps to inspire others to take a crack at SIP building. Enjoy!
 
Step 1 - Measure 3 1/2" from bottom of a 22 1/2" Plastic Whiskey Barrel (Home Depot) and drill a 7/8" hole at 3.5" from the bottom for the 1/2" PVC pipe overflow. The elbow connector is glued to the outside to shoot overflow down (less messy). I use a straight connector glued to the inside to hold the PVC Overflow connector in place. If you don’t want to make a PVC overflow simplydrill 1 or more 3/8" holes from the bottom for drainage.
 
Step 2 - Cut a 5 gallon bucket bottom off at the bottom 3 1/2" to make a support base. Cut about a 6" diameter hole in the center of the bottom, drill 3/8" holes on top and the sides for sides for irrigation then make 3 - 4 cuts at the lip that will allow water to flow through this platform when it is inverted. Place the support platform in the center of the whiskey barrel bottom end up.
 
Step 3 - Cut your 20 gallon plastic container bottom off at the indentation to make your platform (holds the potting mix up in place). Cut about a 6" hole in the center and drill 3/8" holes all over it for aeration and drainage. You will need to cut a hole for the PVC pipe watering hole. I use 3'4" PVC pipe so I drilled a 1 1/8" hole near one edge for this.
 
Step 4 - Take a 6" plastic pot (Home Depot) and drill 3/8" holes in it to work as your wicker system and insert in the 6" diameter hole you cut in the support platform.
 
Step 5 - Drill (2) 1/4" holes the side near the top you insert plastic zip ties into to hold the PVC pipe from being moved. Cut a 20" piece of 3/4" PVC and cut off a piece at the bottom lip (taper it) so it doesn’t sit flush restricting watering from flowing into the base. Insert PVC pipe (taper end down) into your hole your drilled in the support platform and secure the PVC pipe with a plastic zip tie.
 
Step 6 - Cut half of a 7ft x 7ft (approximate) burlap sack and line this on top of your SIP that will preventing potting mix from entering your wicker system and roots from growing into your aeration and drainage holes making it easier to remove the tree from the container when root pruning. Trim your burlap sack so it doesn’t drag on the ground.
 
Step 7 - Wet your potting mix and whatever nutrients (Lime, Mycorrhizal Fungi etc.) you want to add every time you set your tree up till the next root pruning and set your tree up centered in the SIP.
 
Step 8 - Place your 4 mil thick plastic tarp over the top and secure it with either connected plastic zip ties or other cord material. Tighten and trim the ends of the zip ties off and any extra plastic tarp hanging off more than 6" from where it is secured.
 
Step 9 - Cut a full size 7ft x 7ft burlap sack half way down the middle to place over your SIP and secure it with a clamp and trim as needed. This protects your plastic whiskey barrel from degrading faster from the heat and protects the trees roots when reaching the outside of the SIP from being burned up in the extreme heat of places like zone 9 and 10.
 
Step 10 - Water and fertilize when called for! You can use a slow release fertilizer. People in Zone 6 can fertilize like that once a year with this system but in my hotter zone (9) I get a longer growing season so I might fertilize like that twice a year like that in Feb/March and then again in June/July. I prefer to use water soluble fertilizers like Miracle grow to start working faster and stop working faster. I might use just MG the first year to get the tree to leaf out. After that I would use 2 parts MG to 1 part Super Bloom that would yield a 7 - 7 - 5 ratio increasing phosphorous without having to worry about bone meal or superphosphate. You can adjust your own ratio obviously.
 
22 1/2 " Plastic Whiskey Barrel (Home Depot) Container Cost $20
Support Stand (5 Gallon Bucket cut and drilled) $3
Support Platform Plastic 22" inch rope handle tub (cut and drilled) $8 or $9
1 ft piece of 3/4" PVC Watering Pipe $1
1/2 7ft x 7ft Burlap Sack (place over support platform to keep roots from going through holes) $3
1 Burlap Sack (7ft x 7ft) top cover protecting roots from burning in summer $6 (Home Depot)
Clamp for top cover $1 (Home Depot)
plastic Zip Ties $1 (guesstimate)
4 mm Thick Plastic Tarp Cover $1 (guesstimate) worth (but you have to buy a roll)
6" Plastic Container used a wicker $1 + (Home Depot)
* Optional PVC Overflow $5? - 1/2" PVC cut 1 7/8" in length connecting a 3/4" elbow (spout) and 3/4" straight connector (inside the SIP) glued together
 
Estimated Container Cost $44 plus tax without the overflow piece maybe $50 with it.

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A hint on getting free, food-grade buckets:
I make wine from grape juice that comes in 6 gal buckets. I've used a few to make SIPs. I only make two buckets of wine each year but I know that some people make much more. The guy at my wine supply place says he has one guy who buys 30 buckets every year. I can't imagine that guy uses all 30 empty buckets after he makes the wine. So my hint is that you look around to see if there is a place that sells supplies for makeing wine in your area. Possibly they also sell juice in 6 gallon buckets, or can tell you where to get them. I'd guess that many people buy the wine juice but don't want the bucket after they make wine. Somehow it would be nice if you could connect with them and get their empty buckets. Maybe the owner of the wine supply shop would help connect you to customers with extra empty buckets.

Giacomo:
Molto bello! That is a great SIP design, and very well documented. I think you are also partly an engineer.

Giacomo,  good job!  Which tool do you use to drill?

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