My neighor on my south side had an arborist cut down very take and leafy maples trees-about eight (8) tall trunks. I had asked him for the chips and logs. Well, it is like about 2-3 truck loads after he and his crew cut them for three days in a row. He obliged me with as much as I wanted. I did not realize how much that would look like on my front lawn. I have been scoopping and wheelbarrowing all I can do myself in the mornings and evens when it is not hot. We had one cooler day so I could work all that day and throw my back out as, an added bonus I tripped a few times and my leg swelled up realy nicely. So, if anyone is in the Sacramento, California as opposed to Texas, area, I will have at least a truck load left after I tire out.

So, I now have a few questions:

1) Are Maple tree chips good to mulch Fig Trees?
2) What are the tallest heights a container Fig tree grow?
For instance, can they be used for shade for privacy between suburban homes?
3) Today is the first day that I have no more shade in my front yard: how do I acclimate my 1-2 foot high Fig Trees (VdB and BM)?
For instance, should I transplant them into larger pots?

As far as the mulch goes, you need to let it "cure" for a few months or it can be detrimental. I was told this by a fellow who makes mulch, he said while the mulch first breaks down it releases volatile chemicals, you need to let them dry out completely before use.

Cajun,

I disagree with the aging the chips comment.  Years ago the prevailing wisdom was fresh wood chips would steal nitrogen from the soil.  Research has proven that is not the case.  What happens is at the soil surface where the woodchips touch the soil the chips will take nitrogen but just from the surface of the soil and as it breaks down it gives the nitrogen back.  Now if you mix fresh wood chips into the soil that will leach nitrogen.  I apply about 10 or so bucket truck loads of chips a year.  I add them fresh and have never had an issue.   

I use a couple of dump truck loads of mixed hard and soft wood chips each year. If I am using them for insulation and moisture retention, I use them fresh.  If I am looking to build soil around plants, I age for a year before using because the chips will break down that much faster. We have very acid heavy clay soil and wood chips are on the acid side so I usually add a bit more lime when I mulch around plants like figs and roses that like a sweeter soil. So far the only issue I have ever had was some poison ivy which showed up shortly after mulching trees. On the positive side, instead of brick making material, I now have earthworm rich areas surrounding my trees and fruiting bushes. I have had no disease or bug problems from using fresh wood chips as a mulching material in the 10 years we have been using it on this property.

Oconee County, SC 7B

For fresh mulch its best to keep it under 4 inches in depth and keep it a few inches away from the trunk. I have killed a few trees by putting too much mulch on. You can have too much of a good thing.

Great, a consensus of pointing toward using the fresh mulch. That is what I was hoping. i had to waste all this mulch I received from my neighbor. Thank you.

Last yr, a tree company dumped a gigantic load of mulch in my driveway. It was massive. I spent day and night moving this pile. Man was it stinky since parts were already decomposing and mulch was full of thorns.. I think they were mostly palo verde and mesquite. It was bad. People came to help themselves to mulch and it hardly made a dent. Moving stinking mulch in 100 degree weather was not fun at all.

But today I am thinking of getting some more now because I've used all the mulch up and it has worked out well for the garden. I would say that if you are in a hot climate, pile it on. The plants like it.

I have a tractor with a front end loader which makes moving the mulch around the yard a breeze.  I add 10" of mulch a year.  Here in Florida with the long hot humid wet growing season in a year 10" of mulch is gone.  Does wonders for my hour glass sand though. 

If you still have the logs, take the managable ones (about as thick  as you leg) and grow edible mushrooms like shitake and oyster on them. Let them sit (elevated off the ground) for 3-4 weeks and then innoculate them with some plug spawn.
http://www.fungi.com/shop/grow-mushrooms-on-logs-and-stumps.html

I agree with Wills.  I use the same material he uses and have not found it to harm the plants at all.  I put it about 4-5" deep around the plants and then deeper further out.  I probably had 5-6" of decomposition since April and expect that most of it will be complete gone by Thanksgiving.  I used about 15 yards this year on my azaleas and fruit trees and they have done better than ever before.  Our sugar sand here in Florida needs all the help it can get.

Good to know, sorry I had bad info from a mulcher...thanks

Cal you were partially right. When fresh mulch breaks down in reduces the Nitrogen available in the mulch. I have read that so long as it is applied to the surface, it will not have much effect on the soil.

However if you mix the mulch with the soil, then it could reduce Nitrogen available to the plant. Once the mulch on the surface breaks down and incorporates in the soil it should not be a problem.

I have read that the reason that using too thick a mulch could sometimes be a problem is that fresh mulch can get very hot if it is thick. This can be too much heat for the roots. Roots also need air. Just as roots are smothered by standing water, they are also smothered by too much mulch.