I know this was touched before, what side of the tree is better for cuttings, the sunny side or shaded. What I found was the sunny side is better because the wood has more energy, etc. 
Anybody tried to compare rooting the sunny and shaded cuttings?  
Is this true or just it “must be like that” and how big is the difference?

Would that mean that both cuttings root eventually but it takes more time for the shaded or the difference is more dramatic?

Also, when is best time to collect the cuttings (for the trees outdoors)?
I know some people follow the moon phases but do not know why.
Some wait for after the rain, specific temperature, etc.

I , personally, have NOT seen any difference in either the location nor timing of cutting harvest. 
As long as the right Temps and Moisture is provided they will root and grow, anytime of the year.

But also, when it comes to sensible planned cutting harvest, I would go with Early Spring when all the sugars start flowing up from root system towards the branches and the Growth Hormones Fitoestrogens) gather around the Nodes to help them sprout. That's when would be the best time for collecting the cuttings.

And also, not to be disrespectful but...Moon Shmoon...Bluh...Time is money!! :)

Have you done an experiment to test this or just saying that all your cuttings root similar assuming they have been harvested from different sides?

lol ya'll going to far, a cutting is a cutting. Dormant is less maintenance, the more buds the better, and freshness is what's important. you can root a cutting 3 inches long with 3 nodes or a 14 inch long cutting with 12 nodes it doesn't matter. just plant it as deep as possible so it don't dry out. you can use 1 year old wood or 5 year old wood, soft wood or dormant cuttings, cuttings from high on the tree or low,  they can be as thick as a match or thicker than a broom handle it will all root. I really think the reason most people's cuttings fail to root, are stunted, or don't live long is because of 4 things and I promise the moons phases are not one of them. 

#1 shock from people starting a cutting and transplanting it within it's first year. this goes from starting the cutting in a cup to starting a cutting in moss. it's best to go big 1 gal or better depending on the size of the cutting. 3-7 inch 1 gal /7-10inch 3 gal. The 3 gal plants sometimes grow to over 5ft that first year. 

#2 High humidity for dormant cuttings, it's needed for soft wood but not dormant wood and causes mold and rot.

#3 Neglect lack of water, leaving cuttings out during cold snaps, too much water, ect

#4 Fungus gnats

Good luck!

Thanks, Daniel!

Not exactly the answers to my question about the sunny side cuttings but the good ones in general.

My questions are basically can be written as:

1. Is there a noticeable cutting quality difference between a sunny and shaded sides?
2. When is the best time to collect the cuttings, if there is such a thing.

Hi greenfig,
Let's take the problem from another point of view.
In May, I saw a branch on my BT that was misplaced but too thin for me to try to root it right away. That branch was completely shadowed .
The plan that came to my mind was : let it grow and then cut ... Well it almost did not grow during the past season... it almost did not thicken ...
All the branches in sunny spots did grow three to ten times more and more and thickened much more.
Conclusion: My candidate for rooting is still on the tree and will be rooted come next May instead of past July as planned.
So the big difference on shadowed cuttings is that they are logically thinner and look less healthy .
So now, the plan is to root it next May and I'm sure it will work ... with just some delay (one year !!! ) in the original plan .

Igor,
sorry for the delay, yes I have harvested cuttings from random sides from each tree and haven't noticed difference in rooting speed.
I know for sure different varieties have different speed for showing roots. That I always notice when I start a batch with different varieties to root.
I have not run a study on it though.