Hi there, I live in Ontario, Canada and have 3 fig trees I acquired this past spring.  I would like to take some cuttings to make new plants.  Are there any northern fig growers that can give me some advice?  Do I take the cuttings now or wait until the spring?  When do I try to get them to root? I have 2 hardy figs that I purchased from a grocery store and they grew allot and produced figs already this year!  The 3rd tree is one I received from my Italian connections (lol) and it is a mystery fig so far...and no figs yet, slower to grow.  I am learning allot on this forum. Thanks, Melissa

If you don't have grow lights or a sun room, the best option IMO is to wait until closer to spring. Cuttings taken February or March will root waaaaaaaaaaaay easier and grow faster compared to cuttings rooted now. This is not saying that they will out grow the ones started earlier though, you just can't catch up on a couple months of growth even if it is slower. You will however be able to root them and get them started in a window and by time they are ready to start really growing you can aclimate them to outside and the sun where it so much easier to just water them with the hose like all your other plants and not worry about them or the fungus gnats.  The flip side is that if you want a hobbie or something to do during the winter..tending baby fig trees will yeild hours of enjoyment; coming home from work and doing the daily exams for progress of roots and vegetative growth along with all the up-potting and watering with a spray bottle. Good times. For me the key is to not have too many starters, then it just becomes too much work at times. Last winter, I forget the exact number but I had somewhere just under 20 going and it was fun but it also sure was nice once I had given away all the extras and my were outside.

winter rooting can cause lot of issues. lack of light is one of them, but if you have south facing window, that can be fixed. main issue is air circulation, and moisture control for me. with dry and hot air inside the house, if left out of the moisture bin, they tend to dry super fast on top even if the bottom is well watered. if you water too much with rootings, they die. and if you keep the cover on too long, that will cause mold due to lack of air circulation. it's a balance thing.

best time to root is in early spring.. start during the late march, or about a month before your night temp will hit 50. when night temp is above 50, you can leave well rooted cuttings outside. good air and sun works wonders.. oh.. slowly introduce to the sun, or you will burn off all the leaves.

Ok..thanks..i'll wait 'til March. I have a 2 year old and 4 year old (kids not fig trees)i don't want to make any extra work if i don't have to. Thanks for the quick response. Melissa

Melissa,
Like you, I am new fig grower from Ontario too. On these Forums I learn all I know by now about figs. This summer I also purchased 2 plants and have reeived 5 more plants from local people I met and some generous members of this forum and GW forum.
In meanwhile I enthusiastically started rooting about 36 cuttings this late summer and fall.
Luckily at my work there is a window sill where I keep 6 young plants I successfully rooted this late summer.
They appear to be doing well so far.
Additionally, on my desk under the ligth there are 11 cups with recently rooted cuttings.
Past week I was away on a vacation and these went dry, as a result of stress two already failed and other 3 look rather week.
As Calvin suggested there is a lot of wook which is very gratifying if one has time.
If you can postpone it for late winter/eraly spring, take cuttings at that time, it will be much easier. 
Even better if you decide to make air layers in spring instead of taking cuttings. Air layers in my experience produce plants superior to cuttings wich far less effort.

Regards

Damir

Another alternative, since your winters are so harsh, is to take cuttings when the trees are fully dormant, store them in a ziplock with damp (not wet), long fiber sphagnum moss and then root them as has been recommended above.  That way you avoid winter kill of the branches.

I took cuttings from dormant trees and they woke up easily...
if you want to increase chances maybe better to ait till spring

Greetings

I think I agree with Kansas City Bob on this issue, especially where you are physically located. Given you get I'm sure a good dose of snow, sustained freezing rain, sleet, snow and harsh winds, I'd be inclined to take any cuttings that you want now, especially if all leaves have dropped and the plant is now dormant. If you prune now, you not only get cuttings to plant later, but your tree is generally smaller and easier to cover if u choose to do so. Having long, exposed branches in your region only sets them up to freeze back.

If you can include some pix of you are trees as they now look, it will give us all more ideas to "assist."

I'll be pruning back my in-ground Hardy Chicago and Celeste soon, and surrounding with a cage filled with maple and oak leaves.