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The best rooting method i found over the years.

I keep my containers in light. About the dirt in the perlit I don't think will be a problem, but you never know!

I still have quite a lot of cuttings left. I will try this on some fresh cut dormant cuttings and on some refrigerated Summer cuttings.

Pen, I got some containers  and here is my set up.

I used 20 oz of large perlite and 2 oz of distilled water in a 76 oz Ziploc container with lid. They were placed on a

heating mat and 18 inches beneath four  T-8  tubes. The grow room is maintained at 70 degrees. I scored

3 Celeste cuttings on two sides of the bottom one inch.

On three other Celeste cuttings I did not score. In this test I did not use any rooting hormone.

bump for Pen

Penandpike,
Thanks for posting your pictures and commentary of your method.
I'm always interested in procedures that are quantifiable and repeatable.

Your method is probably successful because it maintains the humidity and temperature that fig cuttings need to root, 85% - 90% RH and 72 - 78 deg F. with lots of aeration, but they do not need light in the rooting stage, it may only encourage early bud growth.

One note which I did not see mentioned is that the plastic container should have a tight fitting (air tight) lid.

 Newnandawg when I said I keep cuttings in light I ment that the containers just stay at home and are not covered with anything.
not under intense light anyway. Ascpete might be right that this may encourage early bud growth. 
Ofcourse container should have a tight fitting lid.
Looking at that pictire I notice that the top buds on the 2 cuttings on the left seem to be dead.
Keeping the cuttings on a heat mat will result in a lots of condensation on the top of the container and dryind at the bottom
which means you have to turn the  container upside-down very often. I have tried that and it didn't work for me. I don't have time.
I would use little more perlit and try to cover the cutting with it.

Pen, thanks for that info. I will add more perlite. The buds aren't dead, They are green underneath.

Pen I think you are right about the turning of the container. I tried a similar thing with cuttings laying in a perlite mixture in a covered container and noticed the cuttings would be dry on the top side with the bottoms being damp (since the moisture was raising to the top from the bottom.) So turning it a couple times a day I would think would really help keep the proper moisture all around the cutting. I'll try that next.

Tyler

Should the container be aired out once in a while and if too dry a little water sprayed on?

Penandpike,
Thanks for posting the picture of the measured temperature and humidity.

<edit>
Pino, Every 2 to 3 days to quickly check them is OK, but they do not need any extra moisture if the container is sealed properly (air tight).

I open the containers once in a while.
With this method there should not be any water loss so no additional water if you do it right.

I used Pen's method with some Black Madeira cuttings started on January 18, and was happy to notice roots starting today, the 30th. 2 of the 3 have roots. I mixed the perlite and water, put a layer in the bottom of the plastic container, laid the 3 cuttings on top, and covered with another layer. I put the lid on, labeled it, and set it on top of my fridge. In the 12 days all I did was turn the container over a couple of times and opened it once to peek. I didn't add any water at all. My house stays between about 60-70 degrees this time of year. It's clean and easy, and I'll keep using this method. Thank you Pen!

Hi Pen,
I was watching your post with interest from day one and I am glad to see that others have successfully repeated your rooting process.
So far I managed too to get to this stage using either perlite or long fiber SM.
Can you please describe in more detail the steps you do afterward;
You stated:
After rooting I use 2l pot and I place a plastic cup on top to keep the humidity around the newly rooted cutting. On top of the plastic cup I cut a hole so air circulation can take place. Thanks to a post fromMariannaMiller   lately I started to dust some Cinnamon on top of the poting mix and so far it worked great. When you are sure the plant had settled in, then you can remove that plastic cup.

[502add301907463]                 
What is your substrate mix and how moist it is?
How do you determine right moisture of the mix?


can_smokva  sorry for the late reply. The above picture was ment to show only the plastic cup keepeng the humidity around the cutting noting else.
Here in this new topic I started, you can find the ansewers for your questions.

http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post/a-solution-to-my-lack-of-space-and-what-i-use-as-a-soiless-mix-6742404

I used this method starting a few weeks ago and had great success with it. The rooting happens much quicker. I will definitely be using this vs my other methods (baggie, cups, etc). Thanks, pen.

Your method is very similar to what do, only I add a touch of soil mix (usually Pro-Mix) to the new perlite.

I will try this method with the rest of my cuttings, I have some in moss and some in baggie and the mold is getting out of hand.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Quackmaster
I will try this method with the rest of my cuttings, I have some in moss and some in baggie and the mold is getting out of hand.


Just say'n My method is better ... : )

2014-03-22-974[1].jpg Some hard to root blueberries ( Bluecrop, Bluegold, Patriot, Brigitta )hardwood cuttings rooted in just 3 weeks. With the help of some Clonex and my method. The bottom leaf buds should be scratched with some dull knife.


penandpike - How did you use the Clonex with the blueberry cuttings - just the end dipped in the gel?

I have been experimenting rooting figs with your method in post #1 using no rooting hormone - so far seems to be working for most of the cuttings, but some have sprouted buds first.  When that has happened and no roots developed after a couple days, I transferred to a small pot using rooting hormone on the lower inch of the cutting.  I'm waiting to see what happens with those.

I apply the gel with my finger on the lower 2 inches of the cutting.
When cutting sprout I just cut it out. Later the cutting will develop new buds. This will give you at least another week..

Newnandog: any updates on using this method?

Just tried this method with a few cuttings. Will report later.

Quote:
Originally Posted by OttawanZ5
penandpike
Have you done a controlled experiment with water only and water with perlite to see if there is any difference and if there is then 'why'. What does perlite adds to water to expedite rooting. Rooting can take place in 'only water' too. You will find many threads talking about rooting in water only.

I do not have any favourite method but always come back to the baggie method for ease of it with changing paramters mostly related to ease of use. The only thing I make sure is that I open the bag every other day to air and check for mold. I easily find out which cuttings seem to be mold prone. Usually I find out that if I got two cuttings of the same type/vintage and one shows mold I son find the other one with similar tendency. What I am getting at is that the history/vitality of cuttings itself also determines if cutting will be prone to mold in the baggie method
To add to this, I miserably failed to roots cuttings from the south far-east using baggie method due to mold even though I saw it coming when airing. On the other hand I had the best success with baggies method with cuttings from the north-east of the continent (100% from my own plants). Baggie method with some precautions may not be the best but one of the easy and consistent.


Hi Ottawan,
I would like  know about rooting fig cuttings  in "only water" . 
I am surprised to hear about this method, i use the baggie method adding a lite breathable soil to the cuttings, i also make a lot of holes in the bag to provide ventilation for the roots. 
but what if we just drop the cutting in a clear glass of water and come back two weeks later, will they root?

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