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There's a sucker born every minute

Well, maybe not that often, but quite a few have shot up on my Conadria this year. When last year's cutting went from a one-gallon into the ground, it consisted of just that little trunk wearing the ID tag. The original shoot (showing obvious FMV symptoms) didn't grow much, but as soon as I started deep watering and gave it some fertilizer, it really came to life.


This is why I tend to keep suckers on young trees--the abundant foliage provides the engine to drive strong root development, and the new shoots often match or surpass the original trunk in a very short time, yielding a short bushy form with lots of fruit that's easy to reach, as well as opportunities for future cuttings or air layers. Later, if I decide I would rather have a single trunk, I can select the best leader and remove the rest--while keeping all of those strong roots.

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Looks big for a toddler Ken. Do you plant to thin any trunks before next season to open the tree up and promote branching?

Ken, my Conadria has exploded this year also. I planted it in the ground this past fall after it had gone dormant. It was about 2 foot tall in a 3 gallon pot. right now it has about 7 or 8 suckers which are at least 7 foot tall. This picture is from a month ago and it is now almost twice as big around and much taller. I also used deep watering and fertilizer throughout the drought we suffered. None of my trees showed any stress from the heat and lack of rainwater.
"gene"



Brent, other than removing the odd sucker as an air layer, I'll probably let it keep on as it's going and see how it does. It's already started branching without any help from me, and it's starting to fruit as well. I'll stick with minimum intervention unless I see a problem.


Wow, Gene, you're creating a monster! Have you harvested any ripe fruit yet? I've heard Conadrias do very well in my area--prolific and tasty--but my tree is the only one I've ever seen--and I've only seen photos of ripened fruit. I'm anxious to compare the figs on it and my Georgiafig White Hybrid Unknown (no figs at all, yet), which to my eye look very similar, if not identical, in terms of foliage and growth habit:

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I did get to eat a couple early in Spring and then it took off on it's growth kick with out putting on any more figs. Now they are showing up on all the branches. This is one of the first two that I ate.



Here is a picture of the new crop.



Good-sized fig--how did it taste?

I don't have enough experience with it to rate it but I remember it being good and wishing for more. All the figs I ate this year came off of young two year old trees and none ripen at the same time so I could not do any comparison tasting. Next year I should have more figs, tastier figs, and a better idea as to which ones I like best.
"gene"

I'm in the same boat; most of my fig trees are younger than two years. Even the first-year figs taste good to me, but other than an older in-ground Brown Turkey & Black Mission I don't have much basis for comparison. None of the new ones are quite as good as the Black Mission yet, but a couple (Ischia Green & Excel) have come pretty close. I'm banking on next year.

I have a kickass sucker that started on my 5gal MBVS about 3 weeks ago and it's already 3' tall.  I'm thinking about airlayering as a gift, but I already have one spare in case I ran across a figfriend in need.... so I'm on the fence.  Thanks for posting this, the responses are giving me some food for thought.

Ken,
If you remove suckers wont you get multiple shoots off the one shoot that you remove?

Yes Cathy, as I understand it, if you remove suckers you'll direct the plant's energy into the remaining stem, and that one will grow faster. I suspect, though, that you will probably not get the same amount of "biomass" that you would from letting the suckers grow. I'm speculating here, with no hard data to back up my opinion, but when a stem lacks vigor and a new sucker pops up next to it and starts growing like mad, I think you're often better off to let the plant "decide" which stem is worth keeping.

Hi Noss,

My definition of deep watering is:   Turn hose on a low trickle and let it run for a hour.   The low trickle will allow the water to seep deep down into the soil instead of running off.

I would even expand Cathy's definition somewhat to include watering widely as well as deeply. Here's why:


If I understand it, any tree, but especially a recent planting, needs a root system that is capable of replacing all the water being transpired by its leaves. It's like cash flow--basically a balancing act between supply and demand. So, for any fig newly planted in the ground, the root system won't extend any farther than it did in the pot, simply because the roots haven't had enough time to grow--but they'll grow very quickly if conditions are right. However, if you only give it limited water, like I did, it won't wet the soil very far beyond the original root ball, so even if the roots themselves are moist, the plant is still essentially "in a pot" because the soil surrounding the rootball is too dry for the roots to penetrate those areas. When it's hot, dry or windy, the tree won't be able to take up water fast enough to replace what it's losing through the leaves, and it will get badly stressed.

My drip emitters were close to the trunk, and probably did an adequate job of soaking the soil directly below the tree, but the soil off to the sides still stayed pretty dry. This limited the volume of moist soil available for new roots to grow into--basically they could only grow straight down. But, if the soil out away from the tree is also kept moist, the roots will keep growing horizontally as well, and will soon extend a long way from the trunk. Making a shallow, broad soil basin around the trunk and filling it to the brim with water will ensure a broad root system; keeping it full long enough to soak in deeply as well will ensure a deep root system. You want both.

Before rushing out to soak your new plantings, however, it's important to remember that everybody's soil is different. I've got bone-dry, sandy, fast-draining soil. It's literally impossible for me to overwater, but I see posts from other parts of the country where figs are drowning due to constant rain and clay soil, and people are trying to figure out how to get rid of the excess moisture. What works well in one location may be the worst thing you could possibly do in yours!

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