OK. On a tree, tip buds or terminal buds usually break dormancy sooner than non-tip buds on a branch that has been pruned.

When rooting, some twigs seem to have vegetative growth before roots, and some roots before veg growth. So I got to wondering whether non-tip cuttings tend to have roots first because their bud-break is delayed? And if tip cuttings tend to have veg growth first because their buds break easier? Or maybe it doesn't make a difference?

Any anecdotal evidence or experience out there?

I have not specifically paid attention, but must say that I lean towards my tip cuttings always breaking bud before others.

If I am to think about this "logically", it makes sense.  I would assume it takes less energy to break a terminal bud than to create a new bud and break it?

Now you have me curious.  I'll be keeping an eye out.

I have been thinking about this for a while as well. When doing baggie method for callusing (& initials and roots if they happen) if on a multi-node cutting I notice that a leaf bud is in a hurry to unfold then I think that it may risk consuming too much from the cutting reserved nutrients for its growth and sustaining (with nothing in return to the cutting) so I remove the bud with a sharp blade and wax the tip where the fast opening bud was cut from. This (in my opinion) conserves vitality for rooting action.
It may be coincidental, or the result of removing the early opening bud, that I have no more occurrence of situation where I used to have a plants with leaves but failed to root.
I do not remove the terminal bud or any other bud that are dormant which do not seem rushing to open so early. This may not be needed for cuttings with plenty of nutrient reserve but will help other cuttings with not so high nutrient reserve. This may not be a fact but it is my thinking unless I learn otherwise from others explanation.

No particular preference for either. As it is, in front of me sits two 32 oz cups of Moscatel Preto rooted cuttings on top of the computer router
box. The rooted cutting without the tip is way ahead in breaking new buds(3) & has leafed out in all 3 new buds compared to the cutting with
the tip. Cutting with the tip has 3 nice green buds that should leaf out this week. Root mass appears to be similar & reasonably healthy roots.
Both have 60% perlite & balance of cactus soil mix. They were rooted & potted at the same time.

I would say it depends on the healthy state of the branch.  I have huge tree in a container.  It has lots of branches.  However, one particular branch looks wilthed and dried but has started to leaf out and has little figlets on the tips and terminal buds.  The other branches on the tree are thicker and LOOK healther have not even started waking up yet.  So I think it depends on the health and inside condition of the branch.  Just my two cents.

I have my cuttings in water to start.

On Stella:

Non terminal cutting were about 4 weeks to show roots and bud break about the same.

The terminal cutting took two weeks longer to show a root in water and bud break about the same time.

On a Sicilian red:

Non tip cutting took 6 weeks to break a root in water and another 2 weeks to break bud 

Took 8 weeks to break root on tip terminal cutting and about a week more for bud to break.

On an Italian Honey:

Tip cutting- Broke bud after 4 weeks- rooted after 6 weeks

Non-tip cutting about to break root after 7 weeks, no sign of bud break

Mavra Sika:

Tip cutting: rooted after 2.5 weeks, tip opened about 4 days later

Non tip cutting: rooted after 3 weeks, bud break about the same time

All cuttings were between a pinky and ring finger in size.

_____________
Dominick
Zone 6a-MA

I think the tip cuttings break quicker and I think overall the root development goes at about the same pace.

Ottawan, I have left all the buds that break to develop.  I always figured that because I have them under fluorescent that I am feeding the leaves, that in turn feed the cutting that in turn pushes the roots.  I don't know, when I went the method I am on now (spag moss in baggies, under lights), I have had literally a 99% success rate. 
Although, I have heard of horticulturalists using your method.

P. Baud recommends in his book "Figuiers" to cut the terminal bud for rooting.
He says: "In the case of terminal cuttings, the tip bud sprouts when root callus is barely formed"
"Without terminal bud, the aerial part and root part develop simultaneously"

Good info Axier. Thanks. I would be doing a bunch, rooting as per Baud's recommendations.

Interesting . . I recently started a slug of cuttings by a variation on the "clear cup" method, using 2x8 plastic bags instead of cups. I've got them
all loaded in a bucket. (deviation found on Encanto Farms link)  http://figs4fun.com/basics_Rooting.html

In general . . my Tip cuttings appear to be producing more buds . . but generally the non-Tip cuttings are producing the largest leaves or most vegetation so far. Five of my non-tip cuttings had languished in a 1gal container with potting medium and were dying back pretty hard . . since moving them to perlite, 3 are showing life again. They've all only been at it for 15 days though. . . . I see no roots showing through the perlite yet. . . . I'll be on the lookout. 

I think it's safe to say that Tip cuttings have more possibilities for vegetation due to the fact they have more bud-type growths . . .

3/13/11:    I'm seeing the 1st signs of life on my Sicilian Red after just shy of a month in perlite/soil mix  (non-tip cuttings)
 
3:18:11     Several cuttings have roots protruding out the bottoms of their bags . . after 34days (relief) looks like I'll get some good starters.