I think personally you could air layer it without any problems just dont cut the outside layer at all just do it as a normal air layer but do not score/cut the outside layer its much safer this way as far as timing and position on the tree if its actively growing I dont see a problem with any of the choices your making im partial to air layering you get instant tree and you know where it can and cannot live when you find it locally.

Being that its such a (baby) I wouldnt score it all the way around if your going to score it at all go half way around with a razor blade but dont peel it off and only put one slit.

As far as clonex I dont use anything for rooting or air layering just moss tightly wrapped or dirt in a bag etc.

Only because its a small tree I wouldnt take off outer layer I do it on full grown trees every time I find one though.

If mine i would eventually airlayer the side branch and then sometime this season when main gets to desired height i would top it and create a beautiful tree shape fig plant.

If it were me, I would do a small air layer on the small lower branch.  once that is cut loose, repot the big part in a bigger pot and bury it deeper to cover the top node of the original cutting.  That node is the weakest part of the trunk and could split when the tree is bigger.  Next year, or late summer, do an air layer on the main trunk at the desired height.

Personally, I think a 1 foot tall central trunk is too short.  i would let it grow more and air layer it later at at least around the 2ft mark (from the top of container).   Then when it starts branching, you can shape it however you want.

You can definitely air layer the tree. Just make sure that the environment is warm. If you root a new cutting from a point higher up on the tall shoot, new growth should come from the nodes below the rooted area. This will result in a bush-like tree shape. As someone who grows figs in Boston I personally prefer bush shaped trees, since they are easier to deal with when the cold weather comes - better to have shorter stalky branches for supporting fruit too, especially on a young tree.

I was thinking bush form would be better since she will need to move the tree around. If I follow the pruning diagram on the first post here, I should make the first heading cut at 16". In my picture, that is just about even with the text "Air layer here?". So, I should be right on target if I make the cut there, which would still leave 8" above for the air layer. 

FigTrees2013, what do you do with your container trees in the winter? My sister has an attached garage, but it might be too warm. I was going to suggest that she move the fig up against the warmest side of the house and then make a lean-to shelter.

By the way, thanks everybody for your replies. Definitely helps me think things through.

I think it would be just fine in her garage. I have a finished garage and my tree stays dormant through the winter. I give it a little water once a month and let it be. It will come out of dormancy sometime in late April early May.

Maine Zone 5A

Cyberfarmer, I have about 15 large fig trees in containers (probably 18" diameter pots). I also have smaller seedlings in pots from 3'' diameter size to 1 gallon. I store my trees in a dark corner of our unfinished basement.  The temperature is probably about 50 degrees F. This is a bit warm for figs. To keep the trees from breaking dormancy too early I cover all windows so that no light enters that part of the basement. I water the trees once a month (roughly).