Thanks Pino. but its pretty much between 75-85 during the day time and I don't want to add too much heat. When the temp gets between 80-95 I seem to get rapid leaf growth before adequate root growth. Last year, Nov-Mar 2013-2014, I rooted about 200+ with no mold problems and only lost a few and this year is much hotter outside. I switched from the bag, container, etc.. method because I lost way too many to mold and gnats, now I do not have problems with either. I use a high percentage of pine bark fines with peat & perlite. Also, I do not add humidity, our environment is this humid. I think with the plastic enclosure being so large and with air vents in several places helps prevent mold. Thanks again Pino.

Black Madeira and Figo Preto are creeping along but are rooting now.

Some tough-fee's LSU Scott Yellow, Gypsy, I258

From bigbadbill,
"I'm glad this thread got resurrected. Most of my cuttings are nicely rooted except for one nasty variety: Bayerfeige Violetta. It has been over a month and no signs of even initials"

I'm with Bill on this one. This has been my toughest so far, still have a few more to do, but it's been 2 months and finally have some roots. No leaves yet, but a few roots.

Seems like there are some varieties that are indeed slow to root, my own experience echoes others' with B. Violeta and JH Adriatic being among the slowest, 6-8 weeks before signs of life.  Most vigorous has been ADelmato's Unk Yellow Greek- fast to throw roots and really vigorous growth; I think there's fruit buds developing too!

Hardest to root: Marseilles VS Black - Only 50% success last year

Interesting for me to see that Black Madeira repeatedly shows up as a shy rooter. I purchased several cuttings from mnedulcu on eBay (Marius) and 3 of the 4 are pushing roots after just 2.5 weeks! I think it helps that i'm keeping the cuttings in the low 70's.

I just wanted to bump this old thread, malta black was extremely stubborn to root for me last year, this year Black madeira was easy ,do you really think it is the type of fig or the amount of stored energy in the cutting received?

Everybody has their own take on this.

IMO yes and no. 
Some varieties seem slower to root. It depends more on the health and readiness of the scion to start growing.

Lignified, freshly cut, no winter damage most figs seem to start rooting quickly and buds push new growth.
Fully dormant from lengthy storage they seem to need a kick.  Rooting hormone seems to help with these.  
If they have been exposed to freezing or mold and related subsequent damage then they may root but the buds may not push growth and so it ends.