Hi Jason,
what i like to do when i slowly get my plants used to the less humid enviorment if there cupped with dome i remove dome for a little bit then i put the dome back on and increase the length of removing dome a little at a time. I have transplanted plants before into a little bigger pot and still used a large cup over plant and did the same thing if they were not yet ready.
One thing i have noticed is that a plant with more leaves seems to be able to get used to less humidity if it has more leaves on it.
Something i learned a while back was figs plants have stamata's
(probably mispelled) under there leaves there like tiny mouths that open bigger at night and take in moisture . Folks that spray liquid fertilizer on other types of plants like to spray the undrside of the leaves. Its my understanding that there are some on the topside but most for some reason or another reside underneath. So i always give a mist top and underneath just for good measure i suppose. How is the one Mvs i think it was hurting bad is it any better or no.
Martin

The MBVS is still rough.  Both developed leaves have shrivelled.  It is a tip cutting, and the terminal bud and green shoot is still firm, so ... I'm going to leave it be in the bin and see if it manages to continue some roots. 

I'm kind of pissed about that, actually.  It is the plant with the strange leaves in this picture:

http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/file?id=935873

All three of those pictured are supposedly MBVS, this one is the one that had really freaky looking leaves, though.  I really wanted to see it come to fruition.  This is my first real potential "loss" of a rooted fig cutting, so it kinda sucks.  Out of several dozen cuttings ... guess I shouldn't complain.

Ah shoot Jason
first one you might loose thats great out of a buch that have rooted for you.You know there is still a good chance cause under that bud lies more life long as the roots arew in good shape roots ,the  bud will regenerate within itself and push out more growth has been my experience. If that bud tip starts to bend over then thats not a good sign.

Well, I just wanted to update on these. 

I wish I would have taken photos after the transplant when everything went limp...but I didn't.  Just thought I would post an update anyway.  The two Conadria shot out new leaves recently.  There is one fully formed leaf on the left one, one partially formed new leaf on the right one.

You can still see the leaf burn around the perimeters of the old leaves from the Turface/MVP mix...which was constantly drying out too fast. which resulted in repeated wet/dry/wet/dry conditions. 

The result of the persistent dry-outs is the burned leaf edges - which is the main reason I had to do this transplant to "normal mix".

Jason,

After removing rooted cuttings from the sphagnum moss, I go straight into my normal growing mix.  The intermediate step of going into a different medium seems unnecessary to me.

~james

I don't root in SM, I root in the bag with a paper towel.  Once "significant" rootlets are showing in the bag, I put into a perlite-heavy mix (I think I'm at 20% Fafard 3B / 80% perlite at this point), I let them get rootbound, then transfer the rooted mass into a larger pot.  It's been working out really well.  With other fruit trees and plants in the past, I've used a more potting-mix-heavy ratio for potting, figs seem to like more porous material to get started in.  I openly admit that I've never rooted this many fruit trees at once in my life, so I learned a lot through my trials and sharing with a couple other fig-rooting-newbies who were exceptional enough to collaborate with me.

With the four cuttings I talk about in this thread, I deviated from that after some inspiration from a post at GW forums, where someone (don't remember who at this point) mentioned using 50/50 Turface MVP/Sphagnum moss in rooting cups.  The result for me with this new cupping medium was profoundly different from my normal one.  The ability to consistently control moisture with the 50/50 Turface/Sphagnum mix was next to impossible.  It would hold moisture in the middle (at the center only) for far too long, with no moisture to the outsides of the cup.  So, the risk of overwatering was huge, and the only way to work around it was using large needle used for injecting liquids into meats prior to cooking.  This was cumbersome and too time-intensive.

I was kindly given a cutting of JH Adriatic this year from a fellow fig friend.  I indeed tried your suggestion of going straight from bag (or moss) to the pot, using one of the blue pots pictured in my last post.  It appears to be working out OK?  I can't see what's going on below the soil, and it takes up so much room in my bin that I'm reluctant to try this method again.  I see the inherent risk of transplanting from cup->pot on a young cutting, but the having the ability to control or influence a cutting based on what rooting you're seeing is well worth it in my opinion.  I wouldn't have it any other way.

I'm tempted to try Jon's 'new baggie method" next year, just to save room and give that a shot. 

I was referring to the steps of growing mixes and not the container sizes.  What seems to be the popular method is to go from SM to one mix (arguably to control moisture) then into a "normal mix".  At the same time, the cuttings go from a baggie, to a cup for rooting, to a nursery container.  The intermediary mix should be the same as the mix in the nursery container.

I control moisture by watering with a spray bottle (they're about a buck at Home Depot, Lowes, Target, The store that shall remain nameless, etc.).  I measure out the growing mix for the container, and spray it from the bottle.  Then I pot the cutting giving a couple of sprays at the root zone.  It goes into a plastic bin with some water in the bottom.

~james

When you say, "intermediary mix should be the same as the mix in the nursery container", are you speaking from an ingredients perspective, a ratio perspective, or both? 

My typical is to go from bag -> clear cup 80/20 of Perlite/3B (3B already has perlite) -> pot using 3B w/a splash of extra perlite.  In my default process, I always use the same ingredients, just in different proportions.

All of the disasters I've had so far can be traced back to using an unfamiliar 'intermediary' mix, as you call it.  That's the Turface MVP/sphagnum, which was the root cause of problems that led to transplant.

always open to suggestions.

Both.  Having "zones" within a container can cause issues maintaining moisture levels.  They can also directly and indirectly lead to other (and sometimes dire) problems in the future.