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Triple Crown Blackberries

@ Drew, thanks for your information.  Do you also winter protect the figs or do you just use this product?

Quote:
Originally Posted by tennesseefig
@ Drew, thanks for your information.  Do you also winter protect the figs or do you just use this product?


My figs are in containers and in the garage. I'm new to figs and I need bigger plants to experiment with in ground plantings. Still spraying them is just a little insurance. yes I would use it with other protection. I also cover my blackberries with leaves , well at least the trailing types I can lay down.

On blackberry yields. If you don't prune everything IMHO you will get smaller berries with less sugar. the plant only has so many resources and cannot produce an endless supply of berries. Keeping it pruned to 4-5 feet and keeping laterals at 2 feet or less is much like thinning fruit trees. Each fruit has more resources thus sweeter, and larger in size. With some plants a large amount of berries could also break canes. Triple Crown is fairly strong, although I suppose it could happen with TC too.
Even with pruning canes prduce a large amount of berries.


Some of my blackberries and blueberries.

Out of all the blackberry plants I have Marion Berry is by far the best tasting.  It is in a league of it's own. It really is not hardy here so requires a lot of protection. 
I also grow a ton of raspberries.

Thought I'd chime in on the TC pruning topic. I've topped mine at five feet and I've let them ramble and then tied them up to my trellis, five wires, 6' at the tallest wire, so I have the space to do this without pruning. It does require bundling multiple canes and tying or weaving them into the trellis. I didn't notice much of a difference in fruit size, as I get plenty of large TC either way, but I wasn't exactly scientific about it. The same is true in the flavor area.; they seem to taste great regardless. I think I'll experiment in the upcoming season and prune one or two of my plants while leaving the remainder unpruned. I also grow Chester, which I think tastes a little better than TC. It sets a lot more fruit thanTC but they are significantly smaller, especially last year when my two mostly unpruned plants set upwards of 3000 fruits. They were mostly the size of raspberries with a few larger ones tossed in for picking excitement: "look at this whopper" while plucking a berry twice the size of a raspberry but 1/3 the size of your average TC fruit. It was a lot of work picking over those plants. I'll be pruning the Chesters hard at 6' with short laterals this spring to see if I can reduce the number of berries and increase their size. If their flavor improves too, so much the better.

I also have sprayed my potted figs with Wiltpruf as I prepped them for their winter nap in my garage. I did that for four years before my collection grew large enough that it became a burden. This will be the third winter in a row I haven't sprayed them. I don't think it makes any difference out here. It's not as cold here as it is in Michigan, but it is a good deal less humid, which was my big concern during their dormant period. Unless something terrible happens that can't be attributed to over or under watering the dormant trees, it is not worth the time to spray the figs here in the intermountain, high desert west. I can, however, see the potential benefit in doing it for marginally hardy plants that are over wintered outdoors. Any little advantage to the plant may be the difference between a crop or no crop and maybe even losing the plant entirely.



    I've tried to send a PM to all of you that requested berry cuttings...  in case I've missed you, this is just a 'heads-up' that I cut berry vines yesterday (they completely filled up two 5 gal buckets) and I left them soaking in water preparing to ship...   today they were entrusted to our postal system and are in route to you.   After packaging them all up, I have enough cuttings here for one more mailing, if there is someone that would like to receive them.  (Please post a reply here, so we know that they are claimed)

   I was able to dig up enough tip rootings to send some with each package of cuttings as well.

   Enjoy.......

    Blue

am I too late for the last late mailing mentioned above?



   They're yours, Greg.     ...And, it's kind of interesting that these will be shipping back to their home of origin!   I received these as cuttings myself, eighteen years ago, from someone that lived next to the USDA trial station that tested the Triple Crown there in Arkansas.

    PM me your shipping address, and I'll get them off to you.


   Blue

How cold hardy are the triple crown blackberries. I live in central Arkansas



    Amanda,

     These plants were test-bedded by the USDA in Arkansas.    The friend that sent the starts to me from there would cut the spent floricanes down to the earth, and then lay the primocanes over and cover them with thick grass clippings and other mulch.  This would insulate them from much of the bitter cold, and he was able to produce 30 gallons of berries each year from just a small patch of plants.

     Your other option would be to use the primocane cultivars that Scott discussed above, which would provide you with a fall crop each year at least.


   Blue

Ok thanks i have some planted this past spring this will be the first winter for them. I can probably take the off the trellis and try to mulch tyem on the ground but i have field mice that may chew them



   I'm glad that they arrived safe, Cindy.   We had about 2 dozen jars of the jelly left from the Triple Crown harvest, and so we included them with the first shipments to members...  it'll give you a preview of coming attractions to look forward to with these berries. 

The rooted vines can be potted immediately and allowed to be in a warm, sunny window-sill or under lights.  They will shoot right up for you and be a strong plant by spring.

  Any method that you've successfully used for rooting figs will root these berries.  I have used moist sand, Pro Mix, coconut coir, perlite, a cloner, and also a mix of the first four mediums...  each container covered for humidity; and they all work.  These plants simply want to grow for you.

Here is another grower's procedure: 

http://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/fruits/blackberries/propagating-blackberries-cuttings.htm

  And here's wishing to all a prosperous and Very Berry New Year...   Blue
 

Cuttings looked great thanks again!

Bluemalibu (or anyone knowledgeable about TC),
Maybe you can help me answer this.  I planted a small Triple Crown plant this summer here in zone 8b.  As it grew, I wrapped it around a small post in the ground near a wooden fence.  Then it got so tall, I decided to run some wire horizontally along the wooden fence and weave the TC around the wire.  I'm questioning whether this is a good idea or not.  Should I have just cut it off at 5 feet or so and let laterals form?  I've read about people doing this, so I'm wondering if the laterals give you more fruit than the main vine?


  Visceral -   In post #29 above, PostureDoc explained having tried both pruning TC and allowing it to grow freely, and couldn't discern much of a difference in fruit production.  He plans to do a side-by-side closer comparison for a more definitive answer.

   Stay tuned...

    Blue

I guess I missed that post.  I'm just gonna just let mine do its own thing for now.

Thanks

Hi Visceral,
Here we have a small bug that lays its eggs in the canes.
If it lays its eggs at the base of the cane ... The rest of the cane is toast. And the part after the hole of the bug will dry.
So I want the canes to be shorter. That will allow the bush to bush more. The idea is, if 2 canes get attacked, I'm still left with 3 remaining.
If I just have a long cane ... I may lose it all ... And that's not what one wants.

I also noticed that the berries appearing farther on the canes get smaller and have a hard time in my hot summer days.
This is just my own experience with black berries and tayberries.


That's an excellent point that I didn't consider Jdsfrance.  I will try to tip root in the spring to get some new plants to use as backups.

I loved reading this posting.

I've tried

Triple Crown
Navaho
Ouchita
Arapaho
Natchez
Apache
Chester
Heaven Can Wait


I found most of them to be seedy and sour.  And if you wait for them to get sweet, fruit flies lay their eggs and you get a mouth full of larvae.

Maybe I gave up too soon?   The only two I kept were Chester and Heaven Can Wait.   I have the Heaven Can Wait in a pot because its a dwarf variety and I haven't tasted fruit yet.   The Chester I kept because a special person gave it to me and I like the pink flower color and thought it might make a nice landscape specimen.

Thanks for the Off topic discussion.

Dan


  Dan,

   You might try touching base with Drew (Drew51) ;  ...he's also there in SE MI, in Sterling Heights, and seems to have found the secret to the berry puzzle:

Quote:
Originally Posted by drew51

Wow! So many berries!!

Just potted the rooted tips to grow in the berry patch (potted so it doesn't overwhelm the slower raspberries), and set up the cuttings for rooting. 

Thanks again, Blue! The time and effort you put into sharing these with others is much appreciated. :)

Quote:
Originally Posted by dfoster25
I loved reading this posting.

I found most of them to be seedy and sour.  And if you wait for them to get sweet, fruit flies lay their eggs and you get a mouth full of larvae.

Dan



Well Natchez ripens early enough to avoid SWD (spotted wing drosophila fruit fly).
Also so does Boysenberry and wyeberry. You could go with these. Natchez you have tried. The berries are huge, but not that good. Also a long ripening window that does go into the SWD period too. Boysenberry is excellent, although it does have very large seeds. All will ripen before SWD is around. I'm experimenting with various ways to handle this fly. I have found they love Chester, so it is kind of a catch crop. Less are in my raspberries when Chester is fruiting.
Another alternative would be to grow summer bearing raspberries which bear fruit before the fly is around. Also June bearing strawberries would be another berry one could grow before the flies are around. I grow pineberries, they are amazing!
Here are some I'm preparing for preserves.



Last year I sprayed my blackberries with Schultz Insect Spray for Plants. It is considered more natural than highly synthesized chemical insecticides. This insecticide belongs to the pyrethrin class of insecticides. Pyrethrins are developed from extracts taken from chrysanthemum flowers.
I added molasses to the spray to attract them. i heard they can smell this insecticide and avoid it.
This worked as PHI is 1 day so I would pick berries for the day and spray afterward. in 24 hours it is safe to harvest. This year I'm going to experiment with food grade diatomaceous earth. The stuff is harmless to eat, even though I would of course wash berries before consumption. DE contains silicon a needed trace element too. It would have to be applied almost daily, and will not smell at all. it should kill them if they touch it, so coating the berries with DE powder should completely eliminate any worms.


It's a good idea you kept some. Frank (I think?) who is selling rare fig cuttings on EBay right now, mentions in his blog his figs were devastated with SWD, So if you eliminate the preferred blackberries, you may find the flies in your figs.
http://northfloridafigs.blogspot.com/2015/12/ponte-tresa.html

"2015 was the worst fig season I've ever experienced in North Florida. Nearly all of my fig trees succumbed to the SWD (fruit fly) invasion, rotting fruit inside out and stunting the rest. I picked this one early to avoid a similar demise..."


Quote:
Originally Posted by sarahkt
Just potted the rooted tips to grow in the berry patch...
Thanks again, Blue! The time and effort you put into sharing these with others is much appreciated. :)


  You're more than welcome, Sarah...   I'm glad to have been able to do it.


   And, thanks Drew,  for helping with your expertise in working around the fly infestation.

  Blue 

Got them potted up! Looks great blue thank you again.
Do you recommend they stay dormant or get them growing now for spring?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Iowafig
Do you recommend they stay dormant or get them growing now for spring?


  Chad, I received my cuttings and a couple of tip rootings of T/C in Dec '97 and potted them up under lights until I could plant them out in spring.  That jump-start fooled the tip-rooted vines into producing fruit for me that first year.  If you have the room, I'd sure go for it!

  Best of luck with them...   Blue

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