this was something that i remember when i first started with figs. 

1) using wick to draw water out of container
2) using double pot to move the standing water outside of the container that has the plant. 

those were something that was suggested to me when i first started growing figs. i know wick is being used to draw water into the SIP, but this can also used without water reserve to drain water from the pot. 

using same soil mix and having another container below the one with tree should drain water from the pot that has the plant. the soil mix in both container has to be in full contact. 

i used to use wick in all my containers to draw excess water out of the larger containers. when i'm rooting, i still use peat post inside of 16 oz clear cup. making sure that soil mix in peat pot is in contact with soil mix in 16 oz cup to lower the level of standing water outside the peat pot. 

not sure if they both work, but in most cases, i'm having pretty good results. 

Pete,
The peat pots do work, but they have their drawback. Although it provides for root tip capture, which induces branching, the peat pot absorbs a lot of moisture and actually kills many roots when they come in contact with its wet surface, very careful watering is still required.  I did several dozen tests and dissections last year with the same results.
The drying ability of the fabric wick was posted by WillsC early last year when describing his wicking cups. In the 2 Liter fabric wicked Mini-SIPs this feature is immediately evident.

I have been testing the 2 liter SIPs and they are superior to cups and cupped peat pots. When used properly they will provide a healthy environment for fig root growth. The reasons why I've been experimenting and advocating the 2 liter SIPs are;
1. They are readily available
2. They are inexpensive.
3. They can be fabricated very easily.
4. They are modular
5. They can be used with most custom mix variations, even with moisture retentive mixes with high peat content.
6. Almost Any one can fabricate one to try it themselves.
Give one a Try. You'll be glad you did...
    .

BTW, both of the methods mentioned in the OP are incorporated into a SIP, the wick and the planter / reservoir separation.

So,  you guys are saying that the SIPs (used in the typical manner) are no good for starting cuttings? 

But you're still using the SIP container themselves with good results (Pete S.)? I'm sure you've talked about this in some of you're other posts but I haven't read them all.

I'm just trying to clarify whether anyone has had success using the SIPs, in the typical fashion, on cuttings. Did anyone see it through until you had failures or successes?

I'm currently experimenting with some cuttings in SIPs using 5" peat pots and those 32oz food storage containers. I'm also using the 32oz containers set into the bottom section of 2 liter soda bottles. Am I doomed to failure or are we all going to be surprised? I don't know yet. Any input will be appreciated.

Sorry Pete K. if I'm hijacking your thread. Just looking for some positive input ;-) . 

I really like the SIP system because of the lower maintenance as well as the outstanding growth results usually experienced when using them. If it works on cuttings, I can see many time saving benefits as well great benefits to the growth & health of our little trees.

Bill,
SIPs will work great for cuttings if used properly, a watering sequence (schedule) has to be followed initially...
SIPs will not work for fig cuttings if the reservoirs are filled continuously, if the reservoirs are over sized and, or if the wicks are over sized, the potting mix will quickly become saturated and rot the cuttings.

When used to start cuttings, they are only watered when dry, the reservoir can be filled with the "fill amount" for the first few waterings and then filled normally once the cuttings have started to grow (roots and leaves) and have hardened. Also fabric wicked SIPs can be used with a very wide range of mix recipes. I will soon be posting the results from my test batch of mini-SIPs.

The wick size and type are very critical to the function of any SIP. The 2 Liter Soda bottle SIP is a proven design and will even work without a fabric wick.
Build one and test it for yourself...

i never used SIP so i can't comment on that. but using peat pot method for last 4 yrs, i can say it's not set up and forget. every yr, i do things slightly different to see what i can do to make it work better.

OK Pete S. Since I'd rather not lose the cuttings I've started with the SIPs, looks like I better go back & pour the water out of the reservoirs. I'll just leave them after that to see if they'll find a balance in time. It's good to know that we have more flexibility on the mix recipes when using the fabric wicks. Makes sense since the fabric is doing the wicking instead of the peat based mix itself.

When using peat pots like this, the fabric only needs to wick as far as the bottom of the peat pot. After that the peat pot itself takes over and the entire pot becomes damp in little time at all.

Doug.  Thanks for the additional comments & info. So, we're basically starting cuttings in the typical fashion & the SIP reservoir is there as a convenience for when the roots are ready to utilize that sort of moisture uptake?

I was really hoping we were going to be able to "stick & forget" (sort of) our cuttings using the SIPs. Would have been a nice convenience anyway.

When I first saw some of you guys talking about this, my first thought was that the cuttings would get too wet & rot. Later I got to thinking about how nice it would be if it actually worked. I guess my initial skepticism was warranted.  Still, it works absolute wonders on established plants or for starting seeds!

Any other thoughts? 

Bill,
The Mini-SIPs can be used to start un-rooted cuttings or pre-rooted cuttings. Once past the initial rooting stage, the SIPs' reservoirs are filled based on the water demand of the cuttings, like any other SIP (Sub Irrigated Planter). As with most things a simple procedure has to be followed.

The Peat pots don't work as well, as I stated in the earlier post because they hold too much moisture which actually kills the young roots, if you're not careful when watering, the same occurs when you use the peat pot as a wick.

The labor savings and ease of mind comes when you have to water the cutting for the first time, there is no guess work involved, for my first SIPs the Fill amount was 3/4 cup of water (6 Oz). If I was not certain that it absolutely needed watering, any amount less than 6 oz could be added without the concern of over watering. This topic has some additional info on wicked mini-SIPs made out of 32 oz deli containers and nursery pots, but the 2 liter Soda Bottle SIPs are still the most cost effective and simplest to build and test with your preferred potting mix.

Oohhh.........  What you were saying wasn't "gelling" for me at first. Seems I'm a little slow on the uptake aren't I?
Now the gears are re-aligning. Sounds like what you're saying will work. Let me see what I can do with that knowledge now............  

Thank you for your patience Pete.  I'm sure I was supposed to be a genius but I think too many brain cells got damaged in my younger days to qualify at my current stage in life. That's my official cover story.....and yes.....I'm sticking to it ;) . 

problem with peat pot method has been watering. if i water from top, the peat pot will draw water away from the soil mix and the roots were not getting enough. with amount of holes i'm using, peat pot doesn't stay too wet for too long.

i'm bottom feeding the peat pot set up this yr. seem to be working rather well.

When I first starting using the mini-SIP system I pre-rooted cuttings and then introduced them to the mini-SIPs.  The reserviors were kept full or nearly full at all times and the soil was saturated.  Amazingly, I only lost two out of about 9-10 from rot and these seemed to be smaller cuttings.  But I agree that a more careful approach (as described by Pete) of very careful watering (via the reservior) in the beginning, and then more carefree watering once the roots can handle it, makes the most sense.  I have switched to this method now.  By the way, my anecdotal evidence suggests that root riot cubes seemed to make the cutting more susceptible to rot in mini-SIP soils that are on the wet side.  I guess this isn't surprising since the cube holds quite a bit of moisture itself.

peat pot method can't be that bad.. really :)

 

Can't argue with the results now can ya Pete?

This just occurred to me! I now know what method is the absolute, hands down, best rooting method of all time!! 

Are you ready for it?  ----  

It's the one method that happens to work best for you whoever you are :-) !!    

Uh-huh. I am a genius after all...........can I get a maybe? How about eccentric sociopath? Anyone?

ditto bill.. when i first started this, a very wise man said.. "find the method that works for you and keep at it". that's what i did. peat pot method works for me, so i stuck with it and adjust it to fit my rooting environment. 

whichever method works for you and whichever method you feel most comfortable with is the best method :) 

Pete,
The 3" peat pots do work, but they actually kill 25% to 50% of the roots produced compared to the same sized container without the peat pots (16 oz cups) in side by side comparison with fig cuttings.

I do agree that you should stick to whatever works for you, but that's no reason not to try something new.

pete, 

i agree, there is no reason to not try new methods. i just stick to peat pot method since it works for me and it's easier for me to set it up that way. it fits into the clear bin for humidity, and i don't have to water it too often, usually i never water them until they go into 1 gal. as to root getting killed, i'm sure they are, but i still have good roots penetrating the peat pot and circling around the cup... 2 liter SIP is very interesting, and i thought about trying that, but that will limit the number of cuttings i can put into the humidity bin. with staggered placement, i can fit 15 cups per humidity bin.. if i go 2 liter, that will cut down amount of cutting that i can put into it. during the winter, my study has RH of 13% or lower. without humidity bin, the cuttings will die rather quickly. my whole objective is to keep the cuttings live until the night temp outside is 50 degree F. 

Pete,
I am not suggesting that you completely change your routine.

I am advocating trying one or two 2 liter SIPs, because they are easy to build, are readily available and inexpensive. If you are already putting holes in 16, 24 or 32 oz cups, its not much more work to set up a 2 liter SIP. The 2 liter SIP can also be tested without a wick, with three to four 1/4"holes drilled in the cap. You will be surprised how well they work and how simple the watering procedure.

pete, i'll give it a shot. i actually saved one 2 liter bottle for this. i have few VdB cuttings that i might be able to use. they weren't good enough to send out to the other members, so i just left them in the baggie and they started rooting.