First one. I have two sets of different cuttings I have been trying to root one set since the end of November and the Other since the middle of December. The ones from November never I used a paper towel. They never really did much a few initials and that was it. Only one rooted and has since withered away. The other set I tired to root in Sphagnum Moss. They were covered all over in initials and trying to grow shoots constantly (that I removed). Only one rooted and has roots but no growth so far. I switched it to a paper towel since this I have more luck that way then with Moss, so far. I see a few initial spots still, but I think the depleted themselves by trying to grow shoots constantly. Both sets still look green under the bark and are not soft or rotted. Should I give up on them? Are there any last ditch efforts?   I have been debating just potting them to see what happens. At least the set from December since they showed life.

   My second question is about the cuttings i have have worked out. Last year was not a  normal year. It did not warm up until late and I waited until it was a long time to bring the cuttings outside just to be safe. It was probably almost May. This year I would like to get them outside sooner if I can. What temps are OK to start putting growing cuttings outside?

If it has good roots then it should be put into potting mix with your choice of added perlite. The longer they get past a half inch the more likely they are to break, in my experience. Do not give up on the smoss, it is not its job to put roots on your cuttings, only to keep them moist and prevent rot so they can grow roots. If they are being stubborn then why not try rooting hormone on a couple and see if that helps. If the bark is not slipping off they can still root and grow but will do it more slowly and be more likely to die young because they are weakened, like you said.

Cuttings do not like really cold temperatures but will tolerate them for one night at a time. I will start putting some out in about a month and bring them in before it gets below 40 or rains really heavy and stays cold during the day.

Thanks Brent, this is the first year I'm trying the s. moss. One set of cuttings rooted great and then three others have had issues. One set I switched to a towel and roots showed up a few days later. I have even had a few cuttings get mold in the moss. I know the moss doesn't add anything extra to make them root and I'm wondering if I did something or what. The ones im still working on only ever got the bark splits and fluff, no roots at all. It just sucks because I was trying to be safe and use moss with the cuttings I really wanted.
It's going to be in the low to mid 40s at night after this weekend here. I'll hold off and see if it warms up a bit more before I put them out. I just need to get them out and make room, lol.

My opinion on first question:
One thing to check on the sphagnum moss.  Maybe it's too moist?  I think you really have to wring the sh*t out of it until no more water drips out, before you put cuttings in it.  Then if it starts to get dry after a week or two you can spritz it with a water bottle sprayer.  Also a shoe box works better than a bag in terms of mold potential.

I would definitely not give up.  I had some cuttings this year that I started November 1st that just rooted for me a couple weeks ago.  Certainly you can just stick them in a pot, leaving a node or two exposed, and then cover that with a plastic bag. 

The sphagnum works well for me but I agree it is easy to break off roots by accident. 

My opinion on second question:
Yes, the weather next week looks quite warm.  But we probably have at least one cold spell left before we can drive a stake through this winter.  I have a small upright greenhouse I bought on Amazon that I'm going to employ for my young figs.  I have put it on casters so that if it gets below 40 outside I can just wheel it into my garage. 

It is entirely possible the moss was to wet then. I wrung it out a bit, but not that much. I will try the moss again when I do more cuttings.
Yeah I have been looking at the long range forecast I'm thinking you right. I am planning to keep them inside a few weeks longer, but I'm thinking my older established trees are going out this weekend.

It was probably too wet.  I have had excellent results with just putting in potting soil with perlite.   I thought vermiculite would be good since it holds moisture, yet drains well, but my cuttings did not do well in vermiculte/perlite combination.  I think it was too moist.   

Wait, why are you cutting off shoots?  The plant will use them to make energy.

It has been recommended by forum members to remove the growth so the cutting will focus on making roots.

I have only been doing this for a few years, so I am not a pro like others who belong to the forum. However, I can tell you that I have had problems with certain cutting varieties that just seemed to never wake up with any non-soil option I tried, perlite, vermiculite, moss, baggie method, etc.

A few years ago, I had a few cuttings ( that I started in March), that were not rooting, and it was now June! By then, I figured they were definitely going to be goners, however, they were still green after all that time.

Previous, they were in baggie method, then in cups with straight perlite.

So, I then did a mix of half perlite with half potting mix, and within  a week, they woke up! I was amazed.

A few years ago, when I first started with fig cuttings and was having this issue with certain varieties, Jon told me that sometimes certain cuttings will stay dormant and not wake up until they come in contact with actual soil.  They need something in the soil to actually wake them up. (Jon, if I quoted you wrong, please let me know).

So, I would try a mix of perlite and potting mix. Some of my cuttings this year, I am actually using this mix instead of moss with the shoe box/take out container method and it is working great! Or, you can do the cup method.

This is just my experience.

That's true for figs but not shoots.  Let the shoots grow and give them bright light (100 W 5000K CFL 1-2 feet away) and eventually the roots will come.  You do have to maintain the humidity. When there's enough leaf surface area the roots will be needed and the plant will have the energy to produce them.  Trust the chemical processes in the plant to accurately sense what it needs.  If it needs energy more than water it will put out leaves first.  Your job is to provide it with enough light and moisture to thrive.

Whenever I use perlite I sprinkle a soil mix with composted worm casts over the top. 

Leaving the shoots will give the cutting a chance to seal itself off at a node and prevent pathogens from entering the cutting. Anything dead can be taken off but do not hurt any healthy tissue the new shoots that will grow once it has roots usually emerge at the base of the dead shoot.

I like the soil idea, I did a little experimenting so far this year and one cutting in the baggie method with just perlite and BioRoot fertilizer did nothing while the same variety did fine in smoss and perlite/potting soil mixes. A very small amount of activated charcoal seems to help rooting in perlite as well.

I can't find where it was mentioned about the shoots. I know not to leave figs on cuttings. So, you pot your cuttings when you see growth even without roots and have a grow light over a bin? I am using the moss and paper towel method I do not take them out until they have roots.

No, I cut holes in the plastic and put them under fluorescent lights.

And a different plant but the same idea

It stays in the bag until it has roots.  When it has roots, with or without leaves, it gets potted.  The first plant developed roots 1-2 weeks after the shoots.  I use fluorescents because of the low heat

Ok, I see you are using the new Baggie method. I have not tried that way yet. I am still using the old baggie way or sphagnum moss

The NB way is super convenient and has a high success rate.  But whatever way you use those shoots have to be nurtured into a plant.  If you cut them off the plant is wasting energy and may not have enough to survive.  So far every plant like this has rooted, but there are still a lot to go  :)  I trust the plant to 'know' what it needs and work with whatever it does.  I say this because I think you'll have a better success rate if you let those shoots grow.

When they are in the smoss box and grow shoots I move them up to the top and expose the shoots while leaving as much of the rest of the cutting covered as possible. The leaves drop but the shoot usually stays healthy.

I would like to try the new Baggie method at some point, but for now the other methods work have worked well.
Thanks Brent, maybe I missunderstood how much to remove. Next round of cuttings I will leave the shoots.