Topics

Underground Exterminator

I do not own one but thought some of you would be interested. I don't really like the idea of pumping all the nasty chemicals that are in gasoline into the soil but I guess lot's end up there anyway.

http://www.undergroundexterm.com/

Brent!!  You have become my new hero!  It's so much cheaper than that Rodenator, but if it works like they say, it's going on the list!  Wonder how long it would take to do 1.4 acres....

It would take a really long hose!!

Suzi

Great Suzi, let us know how it works. I read some discussions on another forum about how this and the rodenator could end up killing unintended animals that live in abandoned burrows; like those cute little owls and black footed ferrets. So please try to be careful and target what you know are active holes.

I remember a neighbor used this idea on moles,
and voles in his lawn when I was a just a small boy in Connecticut.
Worked great as I remember!

I just sent the dude an email asking how to know if a hole is active.  The property is studded with holes, and if there are leaves on the ground, you find yourself sinking into a tunnel that you didn't know was there.  It's hard to walk on the land there are so many tunnels.  I also asked him how long to let the car idle if you have several hoses joined together.  No way can we drive a car down that rocky hill!

Do ATV's use gas?  Maybe we can rent one to navigate the hill.

GO NINERS!
Suzi

You can/will risk damage to your engine if not used properly.
The engine needs to breathe. Cut off the supply and it's over.

These engines are not designed for such a long and constricted travel to escape. An unseen kink to the hose is all it takes.

Suzi not arguing with Rafed hes right about the kink.
But being in the auto biz (mech) for 20+yrs I had my shop piped with 2.5 in galvanized pipe like used for a direct vent gas fireplace around the whole shop exiting the roof and I also had to run cars at 55mph on my dyno for NYSI  for extended periods of time you can always install a flapper in the exhaust just like Rafed would have on the top of one of his exhaust stacks on a truck they keep rain out when engine is off but positioned the right way and they would work as a dump valve in case you get a kinked or clogged up hose.



    Attached Images

  • Click image for larger version - Name: exhaust-flapper.jpg, Views: 17, Size: 30931
  • Click image for larger version - Name: flap_valve_with_universal_coupler.jpg, Views: 18, Size: 8586

Why not use firewood or charcoal? Just BBQ and throw in the charcoal and cover the hole. It will consume Oxygen, and produce CO at the same time.

Thanks for all the warnings!  I copied them into a word doc for JD, so we do things correctly.

hmmmmmmmmm, Jimmychao!  So one piece of charcoal per hole?  I wish there was a way to figure out where the other end of the tunnel is.  So many holes everywhere.  JD wonders if that would be enough, and I'd hate to start a brush fire accidentally.........

Suzi

Well Anthony,

You just took an idea and perfected it.

2.5 pipe would be more practicle than a typical garden hose that's probably less than a half inch inside diameter.

Suzi,

If you use firewood, you should see smoke coming out of the hole if they are connected. Then you can plug that hole with dirt. Not sure how much firewood or charcoal will needed. You just need to clean up the bush around the hole you are going to throw in the firewood. Once you cover the hole, I don't see the risk of getting bush fire, because it will burn slowly underground.

You could go to a welding gas supply shop,
and rent a cylinders(s) of Carbon Monoxide.
More mobile to move around that way.
They come in 20 lbs, 50lbs, 100lbs, and up sized tanks.
They will even deliver, and pick up in tank sizes over 50lbs.
or if you get multipal tanks. For example: four to five 20lb tanks at a time.
Expect to be charged for pickup, and delivery though.
There is an inital (refundable) deposit on the tank, and regulator,
But, they are usually pretty cheap to refill if need be.
Attach any length of flexable aquarium air hose to the regular,
Then a 3 foot length if ridgid air tubing to the end of the flexable air hose.
And then go along and stick the ridgid tubing into the hill as you walk along,
turning on/off the regular with no bending or stooping that way.

How about some calcium carbide down the hole?

This is my favorite thread!  Such great information!  I love the smoke coming out the other hole to see what is connected!  I love the idea of the portable Carbon Monoxide cylinders.  And the idea of a pipe instead of a hose that could kink.

Suzi

The only problem I see with the car engine idea is, 
the odor of the exhaust would tip them off that they've been invaded,
and they would quickly exit their tunnels unharmed.

Pure Carbon Monoxide from the cylinder is colorless, odorless, and tasteless.
They have no idea they're being gassed. They simply go to sleep, 
and their heart simply stops. Most humane, non-poisonous way to go.
Great instant fertilizer too! LOL

Well, I did a little more reading.

Rafed, it is apparently not designed to fit tightly so some gases and moisture can escape and that is supposed to prevent back pressure. There is a locking screw that holds it on so as long as it is not too tight it should blow off if it is blocked.

Some people were saying that because cars are so much cleaner now it will not work as well. Some people say it fixed their problem good. One said it made him sick because he hung out in the area too long. One guy suggested taking the muffler off a lawnmower and threading the hose right in, then someone else pointed out that would melt the hose for sure and the first guy said yeah, I was joking because it is stupid idea and I was just showcasing that...

The Amazon reviews are either great (maybe a little too great?) or really bad with most of those complaining that it did not fit on a pipe larger than 3" or work with dual exhaust and others said it does not have clear instructions. One person said it did not work because the ground is not air tight so maybe soil type is a real factor.

When I was a kid we had woodchucks. We'd throw smoke bombs in their holes to help find other exits. Then we block the other exits with a shovel full of dirt and if close enough to the house we flood them out with the hose. If not we pour gasoline down the hole and either just wait as the gas is a super irritant and causes them to come out or we'd light the gas and it would suck the oxygen out of the tunnels.
Like Jimmy says above you can use charcoal, etc. if you want to be "green" about it.
Unfortunately since 9-11 most of the things we used when I was a kid just aren't legal any more. 

I still want one of these but the tanks needed to go along with it are too cumbersome for little 'o me especially for a hillside.

http://www.rodenator.com/pests-controls-videos-rodenators

These guys look like they are having way too much fun blowing things up. One good thing about this is it collapses the holes and kills the varmit all at once.

Sue

I received a nice email back from the inventor: 

Thank you for your interest in our product you
 
I developed this product in a similar situation as yours.
 
We backed up to state park land on a hill and I had moles, gophers
and ground squirrels. I had to extend a hose (275 ft) to get to
some of the holes.
 
It will work on both gophers and voles but the instructions are
little different because they burrow differently. Inside the box
are directions that are specific to each rodent.
 
Gophers - look for the freshest mounds of dirt and the two or
three mounds in a given area which are only a few feet apart.
They stay underground. Treat each hole for about 30 min.
 
Voles - leave their holes open and come in and out of their
burrow usually at night or am to feed and then return.
Treat each hole for about 20 min.
 
Also, I am here to answer any questions you may have
as you do this - you are not in this alone.

I am very happy he responded, and the thing is so cheap we'll bet a couple.  One for each car!
We'll also try some of the other options in this thread.  This gives me hope!

Suzi

I found another idea today on the web.  DRY ICE!
I like it because you don't have to worry about wrecking your engine or starting a fire:

Things You'll Need

  • 1-2 inch chunks of dry ice
  • a shovel
 

Instructions

    • 1

      Use landscaping flags to mark the location of every gopher hole in your yard. If your yard is very close to your neighbor's you may need to coordinate efforts with them, so that the gophers don't run for cover temporarily in the neighbor's yard.

    • 2

      Put on a heavy insulated glove before you touch the dry ice. It's very dangerous to touch it with your bare skin, you can become injured. Also wear protective eye goggles whenever you have to break dry ice.

    • 3

      Use a chisel and a hammer to break the dry ice into 1-2 inch chunks. If you're lucky, your brick or cube will come pre-scored, but this isn't often the case. They don't need to be exact, but 1-2 inches is a guide.

    • 4

      Place a chunk of dry ice into each gopher hole as deeply as you can reach with your arm. Immediately cover the hole with dirt.

    • 5

      Repeat with the rest of the holes as quickly as you can. The dry ice will sublimate (not melt) and carbon dioxide will sink down into the holes, cutting off the oxygen supply for the gophers and gently sending them to sleep. Forever. Mwahahahahaha.



Sounds like blind ambition.

    Attached Images

  • Click image for larger version - Name: 0205-mole-smell-stereo_full_380.jpg, Views: 17, Size: 34192

I hope it works for you , but just remember the massive wildfires we've had in our area. People we know got burned alive. Just take great care with it.

Suzi, so does that bring new meaning to MPG,  "miles per gopher"? of os that GPG, "gallons per gopher"?

Has anyone considered why the mole is hated?

He does not eat roots!

He does eat a great amount of grubs that do considerable damage to roots.

He will not poop in the yard!

He will aerate compacted soils.

He is very territorial occupying about an acre which he will defend and allow no other moles until he dies or a lady mole comes by.

If you kill him his territory will be occupied with a new mole almost immediately.

He patrols his territory (your yard) almost non stop exterminating subterranean bugs and grubs and yes he'll eat an earthworm too.

His fur is softer than chinchilla and repels dirt.

He really isn't a bad guy but the grubs he eats are!

Do a little research and you might find out he is beneficial to you.

Surface tunnels wreak havoc in suburban yards. I would as soon have the mole, but most people prefer the lawn.

Load More Posts... 20 remaining topics of 45 total
Reply Cancel
Subscribe Share Cancel