Topics

What causes ripening?

OK. aluminum foil so far with the caveats that this tree only gets morning sun. The fig without the foil is beginning to turn brown on the side towards the sun. The fig with the foil behind it is beginning to turn brown on the underside (side nearest the foil). Pixs next week if the figs last.

Jack,
 
You wrote:
 
"There are some varieties such as LSU Purple that continue to grow until the first hard frost bites them. I have a few varieties that are very late maturing the main crop in late Oct. These varieties ripen good figs without high heat".

 
What other late maturing varieties do you have besides LSU Purple?  I have an LSU Purple from Jon that I just planted in the hoophouse but would like to know what else is late ripening.
 
The season for figs in the hoophouse ends way to early here in Missouri.  I need more later ripening ones.
 
thanks, Elizabeth

Bump, any update to thoughts/observations on this topic?

Follow up question--do figs gather much of their flavor and sugars from photosynthesis carried out in nearby leaves much like grapes? I sometimes wonder if there's one big ol' leaf directly covering a fig to knock that leaf off to give the fruit more direct sunlight or let it be since it's a nearby leaf that could help. 

Are there any good articles or books on fig botany guys?


I can't point to any study about this (though I suspect there are some... I just haven't looked for them).  But I can tell you that in my experience, without leaves the figs will not ripen.  Whether that is restricted to "nearby leaves" as you suggest or not (rather than leaves on the same tree that are not "nearby"), I cannot rigorously attest.  However in my experience there must be leaves on the same branch.  I have never seen a fig ripen just from direct sunlight on the fig itself, in the absence of leaves.  (And I have seen plenty of times when figs on a branch with no leaves have withered).

Mike

<edited a minute after posting, just to clarify between "nearby" or "not nearby". >

I also agree with many of the 2008 observations up above in this thread, regarding heat.  I'm not claiming sunlight on leaves is a sufficient condition for ripening, but I do think it's a necessary condition.  I agree that heat seems also to be necessary.  But I don't believe that sunlight directly on the fig is necessary.  I've had figs ripen just fine when the fig itself was entirely shaded (and even wrapped).  But I've never had one ripen when there were no leaves, regardless of heat or sun.

Mike

Quote:
Originally Posted by persianmd2orchard
I sometimes wonder if there's one big ol' leaf directly covering a fig to knock that leaf off to give the fruit more direct sunlight or let it be since it's a nearby leaf that could help.

So my advice is:  Don't knock that leaf off.   (In case I wasn't being clear in the posts above).

Mike

In my opininon based to my experience,fig fruits ,will slow to mature when ,average Temperature ,in a 24 hour interval is ,les than 70F.
That is Day Temp+NIGHT TEMP ,divided by 2= 70F or higher.
The fig tree must be in full sun,in the first place.
If in shade,it will be slow to ripe,even in higher than average, 70 F,climate.

I recall a post (either at F4F or at GW) that someone, close to the end of growing season, cut off all leaves to expedite ripening and was satisfied with his action. A picture was posted with a lot of figs but no leaves. I have never tried it myself.

I have read a few articles on tomatoes and some growers recommended to remove leaves in late season to help ripen the tomatoes. But that was for tomatoes and not sure if it Will help the figs the same way.

Leaves ,are removed in the vicinity of grape cluster,in order to facilitate aeration.and avoid Black rot of grapes.
It is also rarely used on stone fruits to avoid brown rot ,as in Peach brown rot.
Removing leaves from fig tree is absolutely unnecessary,and will not improve yields or speed ripening.
I am talking only a few leaves ,next to fruits,should be removed on grapes,stone fruits etc. ,not ,total removing of leaves.

  • Avatar / Picture
  • Sas

Heat is part of the ripening process but not the whole story.
My First Black Madeira fruit ripened over a month ago. I picked the second fruit about a week ago. The rest are still green today
The plant is in its second season of growth and sits in the sun all day long and is well watered. So drought is not a factor here.
The temperature could reach over 100 degrees in the sun during the day but the figs as of today are still green.
This tells me that it's not the heat. A strong and mature plant is needed for ripening fruit.
In order to have such a plant, it has to have all the elements on its side for its success otherwise it's an uphill battle when it comes to having quality fruit.

Sas, when it gets too hot some plants shut down  and probably slow down or stop the ripening process.  Have you tried putting the BM in part shade or covering the container so the roots don't get too hot?

In my experience, temps less that 80F don't really do much for you. Full sun, over 80F puts the fig in the "zone" to ripen with good flavor and good sugars.

A fig will "ripen" at 60F or 70F. It will go through the "motions" of changing color, getting soft, droopy, etc., but will not have the sugars and flavor of a fig ripened at 80-90F. This is why long season figs don't taste good when grown in seasons that are too short. A Panache ripened at the end of September is no where as good as one ripened at the beginning.

Trees on the north side of my E-W driveway all do better than those on the south side. They get more reflected sun and heat.

Can't quote any science or studies or anything else. Have just watched a lot of figs ripen.

As I understand it, sugars (and other things) are products of photosynthesis, meaning activity in the leaves, so no leaves means no photosynthesis, and no real sugar inputs. I am sure it is more complex than that, but leaves are the driving force.

Night time temps are less of an issue, if I read the trees at USDA/UC Davis correctly. Daytime temps in latter August were 90-100 and night times were in the high 50 and low 60s and they were ripening just fine.

There is a point where the figs get overheated or cooked, if not in the shade of the leaves

My current daytime temps are in the 60's to low 70's and night time temps are in the 40's, O'Rourke and Champagne figs are swelling and trying to ripen. They are changing color, but have not been ripening properly.

Last year the process took 4 to 5 days, with these colder temperatures, they take 6 to 7 days to change color but without ripening and developing the sugars and flavor.

  • Avatar / Picture
  • Sas

Pino,

I have a Col de Dame Blanc planted in the ground ten feet away from the Black Madeira in full sun. Last year it ripened about a dozen figs but late in the fall.
Again as of today most of the figs on the col de Dame are still green. I'm not sure that the sun is a problem for figs. In fact from what I saw, they love it.
The Col de dame on the other side of the house (in pot) gets part shade and did not ripen any fruit last year. These were rooted at the same time.
So these varieties namely Col de Dame or Black Madeira definitely need a lot of heat units. From observation, what I believe will hurt the ripening process is the drop in temperature overnight. I'm not sure what the cutoff level is but once this starts to occur, the fig tree will begin to shut down and will be unable to ripen the rest of the figs.
This also leads me to conclude that large swings in temperature between night and day might hurt the ripening process.

If direct sunlight on the fig fruit played a significant role in ripening it then a fig could ripen off the tree.  I don't know anyone who thinks that's possible.

Direct sun does contribute to the skin color of some figs.

  • Avatar / Picture
  • Sas

During the past two seasons,  my Figs growing in full sun grew twice as big as fig plants growing in the shade. Growth habits and requirements may vary from one variety to another, but I have no doubt that the sun plays a major role in the overall health of a fig tree and a healthy tree is needed for a quality fruit.
In two years, I still have to get a single ripe fruit from any of my plants growing in total shade.
If anyone did get ripe fruit from plants growing in total shade, I would like to hear about it.

Sas,
I had assumed your plant was in a container and thus suggested partial shade. 
I totally agree that in ground trees do best in full sun.

  • Avatar / Picture
  • Sas

Pino you are right, my plants in five gallon containers in full sun have not been performing as well as the partial shade plants when it comes to fruiting or growing.
Perhaps it has something to do with the roots overheating.

My very limited experience suggest that 70s are not a huge issue for fig ripening. However the figs are slower to ripen and very good but not quite as sweet. Certainly sun is very important perhaps more so than temps if over 70. We here in Northern NJ see temps over 80 just about every day in the summer but at this time of year high 60s and 70s are the rule.

I found that when my figs weren't doing well in full sun they needed more fertilizer.

This year the figs on the North side of my in ground Hardy Chicago are ripening when no other fig on the plant is.  I don't think the figs on that stem get any sun.  They are on the lower half of the stem and I don't think any of that 8 foot stem except for the top foot or so gets any sun.  I have no explanation. 

Sunlight falling on a fig definitely influences skin color.

Reply Cancel
Subscribe Share Cancel