Was curious what other people used for their container figs mix and container. I have a 'Vista' fig in a 8gal superoot, the new mix I am using is something close to 40% coco coir, 40% pine bark, the rest is patio plus natural soil mix, crushed mesquite charcoal, and a tea spoon of azomite.

Will update with the results in the late spring. Started using a similar mix for most my container plants since summer of this year.

    Hi Nullzero,.....I read about all the exotic soil mixes that some folks use, and I'm sure that they work very well.  In my case, once my figs are out of the 32oz deli cups(30% perlite - 70% potting soil), then the only soil I plant them in is Miracle Grow Moisture Control potting mix. That goes for my potted trees and my in ground trees.  I have been doing that with all my fig trees for the last six years, and all of them seem to thrive in it.

About the same as Vince. When they go from the 32 oz deli cup, I use about 50/50 large perlite and pro-mix.

Forever figs,

I actually switched to this because its cheaper to do bulk mixes. The costs where adding up with store bought complete mixes. I also like to experiment with improving plant health and vigor.

Coco coir block, about 2.5 cu ft. Wetted $10 locally (peatmoss replacement)
Pine bark 2 cu ft. $4
The rest are minor components of the mix cost comes out to maybe $1 for 2 cu ft. Of mix.

Total close to $7 for 2 cu ft. I think for the ingredients in the mix that's reasonable.

In my area the city collects agricultural wast (leaves, branches, grass clippings, etc.), mulches it and puts at the disposal of citizens. This is my medium: I use it for cuttings and for the trees, at times I add some horse bedding or cow patties (dried).
It works for me. It is also my lazy way to root cuttings.
Sal

Vitalucky,

It sounds like a wonderful low cost mix. How is the aeration?

The 5-1-1 potting mix described on this site. 5 parts pine bark mulch - 1 part peat moss - 1 part perlite (or oil dry). 1 cup Dolemite limestone per 5 gallon bucket. do a search for "gritty mix"
This mix is used for 1 gallon and larger containers. Fast draining, well aerated and light potting mix.

Lowes Cypress mulch is a lot less acidic then pine bark mulch. Works great as an Orchid medium!
breaks down (rots) a lot slower than pine bark, and is also cheaper than pine bark. (here anyway)

Whatever I like to use a mix of mainly perlite and miraclel grow seed starting mix. 75-25 ratio for rooting. in ground trees i use a mix of my own compost potting mix. which a batch is. 5 gal of compost, 5 gal of sifted wood chips (sift through a 1/4 inch screen), and an 8 quart bag of perlite mixed well. i use this mix for my potted trees as well. this mix is da bomb.

Dave

Any component that releases acid, and/or slows down drainage is not a good ingredient for containerized fig trees.  Small particles retain water and can drown roots which need a constant supply of fresh air/oxygen for waste-gas exchange.  Once your roots start rotting from being swamped in stagnant water, you will have big problems.

Mixes for containerized plants, including fig trees, is very different from growing plants in-ground.  Containerized fig trees MUST have proper drainage, or the trees will not thrive, and will probably fail.  So...no peat moss, coconut coir, composted manures, soil mixes from Home Depot, etc.  The recommended mixes are quick-draining and contain little organic material which will eventually break down and clog up the works.  Components like very coarse grit, Turface-MVP (for water retention), and small nuggets of Pine bark mixed in equal volume, plus a good, balanced plant food are what's needed for containerized growing, which can be very rewarding, but also can never be neglected.  It is you that must provide all that the trees will need in maco-micro nutrients, N-P-K, etc.

There are plenty of posted, recommendations for mixes, and plenty of information regarding the merits and demerits of growing containerized trees, posted on this, and on the other fig forums.

I have been growing containerized fig trees since 2007.  I don't mind the extra work, but if I were going on a vacation, I'd have to find a reliable friend to water my trees while I was away.  Containers are very restrictive, and quick-draining mixes dry out very quickly in intense summer heat and sun, and, they will need attention. 

Hope this information might help.


Frank

for rooting, moist paper towel in the baggie. for cup stage, 1:1 seedling soil and perlite. for 1 gal, same as cup. once it's out of 1 gal and going to 3-10 gal, it's 5:1:1 with natural's helper (pine mini and some compost, i think):perlite:peat moss. so far had not had any issue for 2 years. the roots love the mix and it drains well enough. in summer, 10 gal pot will dry up in a day. my bigger trees have been in 10 gal tub for less than 2 year, but due to root growth, i need do some root pruning this sping. 10 container trees give me enough figs to enjoy over the summer and fall. but i heard 22 gal or larger is ideal.

Frank

I have not been growing figs in containers as long as you have but I don't buy into the need for fast draining soils. I use 7:2:1 peat perlite vermiculite mix for all potted plants including self watering containers and regular black nursery pots.  I have never lost one single plant because of the soil.

I know different soil components work for different people but I think the idea of fast draining soils as absolute is a bit misleading.

For all the experimenting I have done, I have come to the conclusion that Figs will grow in just about anything.  I have only lost a fig cutting ( some to just starting roots) or starter because of acclimation to outside temps/light, not because of soil composition or retaining of water.

This past summer, I stuck a bunch of extra cuttings into pots filled with just plain peat and had about 70% root. Yes some died for various reasons including too much water but I couldn't deny the overall success rate. The only thing I don't like about this method is that it slows my production down by a year.  If started inside the previous winter, I can get figs by my 2nd growing year or about 18 to 20 months later from initial rooting.

Even my SWC are opened up top to allow rain water to penetrate and help release fertilizer/ lime.  I have not lost one SWC either.

I am by no means saying my way is the best or only way, but by using my mix, I save on weight of the pots as well as having no problems with root rot.

Hi Dom...Happy New Year.

I have been growing since 2007, and I also had figs potted in ordinary garden "dirt"...and everything else.  I never lost a fig tree  The quick draining mix seems to work well for my growing conditions, and I don't mind the extra watering.  It is more intensive. 

I wish I had the confidence to put my trees in-ground, but I don't have the space needed.  I might try in-ground with a few varieties that have been collected from Bronx trees that have grown unprotected.

I would urge everyone to do some homework, and then decide if you want to experiment with differing mixes.  Make careful observations and then draw some educated conclusions.  Figs are probably the most forgiving trees that bear fruit.  You are almost certain to be successful with whatever growing method you chose.


Frank

Bronxfigs,

I know pinebark lowers the ph, however the tap water over here has a PH around 8.2-8.5. I need a lower ph mix to counter this high ph water.

I use
1 part very coarse washed coco coir (biggest pieces are about 2 inches about 50% of it then 40% coarse fibre, not small pieces and 5% dust)
1 part triple mix
1 part composted sheep manure

Fertilize with 2-3 times label rate fish fertilizer twice a month and water twice a day in summer, it seems to work well for me so far, may try limestone next year though.

Inspired by Marius's (mnedelcu) mix.

I eyeball mine. Kitchen garbage (compost), rabbit poo-poo or aged manure, perlite. And I presoak before I stick my cuttings in. I leave it ALONE. DO NOT HOVER, DO NOT SMOTHER. I neglect and forget about three days after I watered them.

Best of luck. This works for me.

nullzero...re: comment # 14....

As long as you wind up with a basic soil.  Fig trees just don't like acidic conditions.  Granular Limestone keeps the mix sweet, and it's very slow acting.


Frank

It has been argued in container culture, water pH has more of an effect than growing mix pH. I would think this becomes less (but not completely) so with growing mixes which retain more water. It is my belief that any growing mix (within reason) will work, and any growing regime (container mix, water schedule, feeding program, etc.) which is optimized will out perform any which is not.

I use 2-1-1 mix of fine brown pine bark, compost/manure mix, and perlite.  Then I add lime and chicken manure pellets.  It has produced lush green trees so far.  I try to do a pH test every few months too but am admittedly lazy.

I use a version of Al's Gritty Mix, that he designed specifically for me for use in the hot desert.  I will use his other versions IF I use containers elsewhere, but our offer is still pending on some acreage where we can just plant in-ground, and I'll let the dirt, lime and fertilizer do the job.

Suzi

So what did Al tell you to do, Suzi?  I use small chunk pine bark and Napa Floor Dry as the main components.  Then I add a small amount of composted worm casings, some composted animal manure, composted vegetable matter, citrus tone, bulb tone, a little peat, long fiber sphagnum and have started adding some rockwool cubes.  If it clumps too much from pine bark dust I add a bunch of agricultural perlite.  Those are bigger chunks than coarse perlite.  I don't use set ratios because every bag of pine bark is different.  Some have way more dust than others.  I try to mix batches of soil when it's windy and pour from as high up as I can to get some of the dust to blow away.  I'm pretty good at pouring off to the side enough to get the large particles to blow in to my mixing container.   :)     I'm going to try adding a little granular limestone to some pots to see if it makes any difference.  I haven't found a source for shredded pine bark in Kansas City yet or I'd use that, too.  I don't use granite because I want my pots light.