Would anybody have any idea why my 80 year old giant fig tree is not up to speed with the rest of the fig trees in the neighborhood? Normally around this time it's just as full. I see figs here and there, but even those are really tiny.

Sun and fertilizer are the most likely reasons, assuming no one waters their trees.  After it's done fruiting you might try pruning to get more light to the interior of the tree.  Where are you and what type of tree? 

It would be very expensive to water and fertilize this tree. It's taller than my house and about 30ft wide. I've never had to do that before, and it's usually full by now. The pruning you mentioned definitely has come to mind. I think that would help for sure. Of course I can't do that until it goes dormant, so I guess that's going to have to wait. Even the very top of the tree is lacking figs. I live in Savannah, Ga. This is a Celeste fig tree.

I agree with rcantor.  But assuming your tree also requires more water, 40-50 gallons twice a week would raise your monthly water bill maybe...something like...5 bucks, right?

You can buy a quart of fish emulsion for around 15 bucks.    If you can't afford fish emulsion, just do the water, or buy a small amount of commercial fertilizer for...maybe...10 bucks.

Fruit trees need water, and at times, they need to be fed as well.   Balance the cost of the water and fert against the value of the figs you should be eating.

If you want to play...sometimes you gotta pay.

Fertilizer is not expensive if you buy where the farmers do.   Here a 50# bag of 10-10-10 with micros is $14 and it is a very high quality product.  

Ok then... I'll give it some extra love and see what happens. Like I said..this tree is enormous and I've never had to do this before, but you're right, it's worth it!
Thanks you guys! I'll let you know if it helps :o)

try trimming it down lots nd lots...i saw few pics of your tree with all kind of scaffolding and bridges to reach all the fruits you used to have...

good luck

Yes theman! That's me! It's been a while since I've done any fig chatting so it's nice to be recognized! The trimming scares me, but now that I see it's what it probably needs I guess this will have to happen this winter.
How much does one trim on a tree like this? How much fruit will I loose?

figsontheporch that tree looks like it's been allowed to grow totally wild. Looking at the pictures it definitely could use some pruning and shaping. The basic rule is not to take off more than one third of the tree in a season. Figs are strong hearty trees that respond very well to pruning. Nothing to be scared about. In fact in encourages lush new growth. Cutting out a lot of wood may very well hurt production of your breba crop the following year. Countering this is a much larger main crop to follow.

Since there is not likely to be much of a breba crop next year. You might as well fertilize around the time this tree usually breaks dormancy. Doing so will encourage even more new growth and a much larger main crop.

So basically... take off the top? When should I do this? Centurion mentioned getting some fish emulsion for fertilizer. What do you use? Do you think I should do that now as well as in the spring?

your tree is massive and you can easily cut down close to half and even more on some branches with no worries
see if you can take the chance to shape the tree to make picking of fruits easier and safer (some of your structures seem shady)

maybe you can also consider setting lots and lots of air layers now which you can give to friends, neighbors etc later on this summer once you enjoy most of the fruits

good luck, eli

Now...this is just a thought.  So all you old timers and experts...don't get all excited and get me kicked off the forum or anything...but...

Since many fig trees die to the ground in winter and come back gangbusters from the roots and actually produce fruit the following year (as several of mine are doing at present), would it be a big deal to cut that tree down this winter when it reaches dormancy, then, when it grows back next spring, to shape it just how you want it to be?   It should still produce a great main crop, and with a root system like that tree undoubtedly has...it should grow back really fast.

Or what about cutting it back to one or two short branches like the orchard in Brazil someone posted here last Fall?

Just thinking out loud here.   Not suggesting you do this figsontheporch, but just wondering.  What do the rest of you think?

figsontheporch any major pruning should be done when the tree is dormant. My trees are a lot smaller as my largest trees have only been in the ground four years. Two years ago I cut my largest tree back to 18" and it grew back like gangbusters. Last winter I cut it back to 4' T X 4' W X 4' D. I fertilized as described below. Right now it's already grown to 8'+ T X 12'+ W X 10' D and the season is far from over.

As Dave said. Figs are amazing trees. With a well established root system they can freeze or be cut to the ground and grow into a fairly large tree in one season. The bigger the root system the bigger and faster they will grow. The only reason to do that to a tree would be if you totally hated the shape of your tree and wanted to do something totally different with it. I'm not recommending that but it is an option and a good illustration as to just how strong a tree you are dealing with.

Pruning is not to be feared. The tree will respond by producing many many new branches which not only produce fruit. But give you opportunity to choose which ones to keep and which ones to cut so you can shape it in such a way as to be easy to pick and care for. But if you feel you are not getting any younger and don't want to climb anymore. You may want to cut it back really hard this winter. I know it sounds extreme and it is but your tree can take it. Imagine being able to shape the tree from ground level into any shape you want.

As a general rule a tree should not be trimmed more than one third of its height in a single season. However figs may be one of the few exceptions to this rule.

Once you experience your first full season after a hard pruning you will be amazed at the amount of new growth and production. It also produces opportunities to mold and shape your tree into any form or direction you like. The possibilities are endless.

As far as fertilizers go. After a major winter pruning when I'm not expecting much a breba crop. I toss down some pelletized 10-10-10 with micro nutrients. For a tree the size of yours 1-2lbs should be fine depending on how much you want to push it. Then I scatter some Alfalfa pellets though not a lot. For a tree of the size of yours 5lbs would be fine. Then I add some well composted manure. For a tree the size of yours 1-2 bags should be fine. Of course I live in the desert with really bad soil. However where you live 1-2lbs of 10-10-10 time released pelletized fertilizer with micro nutrients would probably be all you would need and it's not as messy either.

Excellent advice! Thank You! So for now I sit tight, enjoy my season, and then when winter comes I'm going to do some major reshaping. When cutting the tree back is there a specific way I need to do that?
Should you pay any careful attention to the cuts? Like.. do I need to coat the cuts with anything?

trim the tree come winter. dig a ditch around it and fill with some cow poo. if you have a sale barn you can get it for free, or from a local farmer.

OK, time for a quick fruit tree pruning primer.

Here goes.....

Take a good look at your tree. Start by taking out any diseased, damaged or crossing branches and any branches growing back toward the center from the surrounding branches. Also cut any growth that is growing out of a branch that is growing downward at a steep angle.

Next cut out branches that directly shade out other branches. If you allow space between branches that overlap/shade other branches the remaining branches will receive more air flow and greater light penetration which will lead to a tree that is more vigorous with more fruit production of higher quality.

(Keep in mind. In a dry hot desert climate braches can be closer together which is why most people here grow in a bush form. In a climate with more rain or humidity there needs to be more room for air flow and more space between branches that shade each other. So yes climate does play a role in how you prune your trees.)

Prune to an outward facing bud on the underside of the branch or stem. If it’s a large branch and you don’t see any buds don’t worry about it. In that case there will likely be may new branches start all around the cut. You will eventually chose one to keep and cut all the rest.

If the your tree is too tall or not shaped in a way that’s conducive for easy care and harvest. Determine what major cuts can be made before you start. The reason for this is simple. If you are going to cut off a large limb or main scaffold branch. There is no need to take a lot of time pruning it.

Don’t worry about cutting off to much or that you are hurting your tree. After its been pruned it will produce many new branches. From them you can fix almost any problem you and re-shape it into a beautiful tree with fresh new vigorous and productive branches later.

You may want to cut your tree short. Say to four feet off the ground. Then you would easily be able to train it into a low and spreading tree where all of the fruit would be within easy reach. Or you may want to just follow the basic rules set out above. If you are still comfortable climbing you can just follow the basic rules set above. Then as you get more comfortable with pruning you could always still shorten it later.

There is some reading I would recommend and a video or two. You will also need proper tools.

Sunset Basic Pruning Cuts.
http://www.sunset.com/garden/garden-basics/basic-pruning-cuts-00400000014985

AZ Master Gardener; Pruning Fruit Trees.
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/pruning/fruit.html

This is a university level instruction video produced to teach people in the UC Davis Master Gardener Program. Instruction on Pruning starts at the 36:00 min mark. You may feel that a lot of it does not relate to you. Even so it will show you just how easy it is to shape your trees. I have watched both videos in the series more than once start to finish. The Home Orchard Part 1