Hello.  I have 20 varieties potted-up in southwest FL, all chosen because of reported very good to excellent flavor.  Most are multiple grafted to limit the number of pots.  

The question is: which of these will do well in my zone 10B climate without excessive splitting or souring? Summer highs are typically 93 and humid, with a 3-4 month long rainy season (it usually rains in the  afternoon with sun for the rest of the day).

Based on my review of back posts, here’s my best guess on how I’ll do.  Anyone with real world experience for these varieties in a climate with splitting/souring issues, please confirm or correct my expectations.

Expected to Do Well: Ischia,  Italian Black (Becnel Nursery),  LSU Hollier,  LSU Improved Celeste,  LSU Scotts Black,  Smith,  VdB

Probably Will Do Well: Adriatic JH,  Brooklyn White,  Dark Portuguese,  Genovese Nero,  Hardy Chicago,  Maltese Falcon,  MBVS,  RdB,  Sal’s

We’ll See:  Figo Preto,  Genovese Nero,  Lebanese Red,  Vasilika Sika

Probably Not Going to Work Out:  Longue d Aout

Thanks for the input.  It will be interesting to see in a year or two which of the varieties do make the cut.

RKN may be able to travel up into pots on the ground, I don't know. Of the "pedestrian" varieties, LSU figs were bred for those exact conditions, and I see you have some listed.

I don't have a number of your varieties but for me in Western PA, with some rain and humidity in fig ripening season, Adriatic (JH), one of my favorites, does split some, as does RdB and VdB.  Italian Black splits a lot.

The Improved Celeste(only one season), and Chicago Hardy/Sal's(Gene or EL)/MBvs all do much better in rain for me.  All of above were potted except Sals, MBvs and Chicago Hardy

You need .. lsu gold. lsu Thibodaux. Lsu purple
My gold and purple are just large and very excellent figs. ,

Hi. I'm in Miami. Here's what I've noticed so far:

To bamafig's point, yes, RKN absolutely travel inside pots. You should be fine if you keep the pots away from native soil and always wash your hands and tools before fiddling with the figs in any way. I've had to propagate and destroy four different plants from my early days when I didn't know any better. 

Smith and VdB are excellent options. Hollier is good but my tree took years to produce fruit that was halfway decent; I think it's a keeper but I had to be patient. I thought LSU Purple was very nice. 

RdB has had pretty weak skin and gets infiltrated by ants frequently. It's pretty good though so you might just want to deal with the losses as they come. Jh Adriatic splits for me but it's great enough to keep around anyway. 

I have some of the varietals you list as first or second year trees so I can't comment any further on what you've listed. 

I recommend considering adding Emerald Strawberry because of its thick skin and closed eye. It hasn't split once for me. I'm becoming hesitant to give flavor descriptions because of general, natural inconsistencies among fruits but I notice the flavor of black plums for ES more often than not. 

I have a bunch of others that I'm still testing out. I was gonna do a year in review post for 2016 but squirrels and other creatures ended up ruining most of my harvest. 

Edit: Also, despite what I've read about Hollier, it is not nematode resistant.

Thanks for the responses
-Nematodes are a serious problem here.  I have my figs in pots which are on a raised deck, so direct infection risk is low.  I wonder if the high organic content of my Farad potting mix will discourage any indirect contamination.
-I am willing to live with some splitting for top varieties such as JH Adriatic as long as I can get an occasional top notch fruit.
-I am surprised with the major splitting problems for Italian Black.  I wonder if it is  the same variety as mine- allegedly a  100 year old heirloom variety from Becnel Nursery in Louisiana.
-As my selection of varieties produces winners and losers, I plan to replace the losers with various LSU varieties that I don't have- LSU Gold, Thibodeaux, maybe Champagne.  But not LSU Purple!  It was one of my first figs and the fruit were truely mediocre.  The advise to wait 3-5 years for the LSU Purple figs to improve doesn't work for me.  I have always had less gardening space than I wanted and have followed a strict gardening rule to discard any plant what was not "doing great".
-And I will investigate the Emerald Strawberry variety further.

Thanks again