My local landscape store carries the following types of soils.  I'll need a truck load, so it'll be cheaper to buy in bulk.  I plan on adding perlite to the mix.  Please tell me which you'd choose, and what you'd add to it.  The pics are from the website and unfortunately small.  Thanks a bunch.

From left to right:

• Garden Mix (Leaf compost, screened/unscreened topsoil, sawdust, and manure)
• Leaf Compost (seasoned with sawdust)
• Screened Top Soil (screened to 1/8")
• Top Soil (contains clumps)

Frank ,
I think the one with the least amount of actual soil .
You really want a soil-less potting mix for pots for best results with figs.
That is just my experience.

Thanks Kerry.  What do you use?

I would pick the leaf compost.
The garden mix is mostly top soil and it is heavy and carries a lot of weed seeds.

My recommendation would be "none of the above".  You don't want soil in your pots.  Not that it's bad, it just takes up space, makes them heavier, and doesn't add much nutrition or water holding capacity.

For cuttings up to 1 to 2 gallon size, I'll use half peat based potting mix (such as fafard professional potting mix), half coarse perlite

For trees larger than 2 gallons, I'll use 80% pine bark fines aka composted pine bark aka pine bark mulch, 20% coarse perlite.  I'll throw in some pelletized lime to raise pH and an appropriate amount of slow release fertilizer, with minor ingredients.

I'll also throw in a handful of worms from my worm bin sometimes, or just place them on the ground and often worms will crawl in. 

I get my pine bark mulch in 3 cf bags, but if you were able to find a cubic yard somewhere, that no doubt would be a lot cheaper.  Perlite is going to be expensive no matter what you do, but it is beneficial.  You could lower the ratio to 10% to save money, or you could probably eliminate it alltogether. 

Such a mix will drain very well and probably won't hold perched water (which is a good thing), so if you're in a hot climate, you may have to water frequently.

I would go with the one with the most leaf/bark in the mix.  Top soil would be my last choice and then I would have to add a lot of other material to offset water retention.  I use ground up bark/compost from a landscape supply yard.

Thank you all.  I learn more everyday here.

How do you all feel about using Al's mix?

perlite, pine bark, partially composted pine bark and fir bark

http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/contain/gal1019192325670.html

The original 5:1:1 mix was shredded pine bark, sand, peat moss.  Some of us substituted perlite for sand because no one wants to shuffle that kind of weight.  Shredded pine bark is hard to find so some people use a mix of the stuff shown. The ratios will depend on how hot your summers get.  The hotter they get the more fine, water retentive particles you need. 

Frank ,
I have been using potting mix from Vermont Compost Company or Ideal Compost Co. as the basic soil  and I add more compost , perlite and some organic fertilizers.
It ends up being similar to ProMix BX with compost added.
Most of my containers are sub irrigated containers and this mix works very well for me , but always learning here as well.

modified al's 5:1:1 mix is what i use.

I use very large size perlite, because it will naturally break up over time, so you'll get more mileage if you use larger pieces.  I don't think the bark I'm using now is composted.  Haven't been able to find a good source for the composted kind, plus I figure that way I'll get more years out of it.  It will sort of compost in place for a year or two.  If that means I have to use some liquid fertilizer to keep available nitrogen up, I'm OK with that.

On the other hand, one of the main reasons for doing it Al's way was to avoid a perched water table at the bottom of the pot.  If you have a hot climate and a large tree that is using a lot of water on a daily basis, I figure this would not be a huge concern.  If you have a rainy climate, I would think you'd end up with sludge on the bottom that would not be good for the roots. 

In some cases I've used cloth pots, aka root pouches, with more of a peat-based potting mix.  The thinking there is that the cloth pot will wick away excess water to the ground and also provide a lot of air exchange on all sides.  Still early in testing that, but looks OK so far.

Thanks for the info guys.
I went to Southern States just now and picked up a big sack of perlite (4 cu ft) for $15 (minor bag damage).  Regular cost is $20.49 which is still a lot cheaper than the 0.31 cu ft of MG perlite from Lowes I've been getting.  I'd say it's a mix of medium and coarse sized pellets.  I found the pine bark nuggets too.  I think it was a 2 cu ft bag for $7.99.
They also had Celeste and Brown Turkey fig trees that were about 3-4 years old.  I didn't look at the price though.

FiggyFrank,

I would go with the leaf mulch if you were to buy anything from the landscape store. Otherwise I would highly recommend using a pine bark mulch, coco coir, and perlite mix.

Rob, If you have a potting mix that is well constructed, it will drain adequately and the perched water table becomes something to manage ONLY in the case of VERY shallow containers. This fact has been understood since the 1970's. I am attaching a pdf by Art Spomer, the scientist who first described perched water table and its management, that I hope is helpful. There are an almost unlimited array of potential mixes out there, including the 5-1-1 & gritty mixes, that can be used to grow figs in the typical 1 to 15 gallon containers people use. If you are managing the more critical requirements for the health of your fig tree, or any other plant, no attention will be required to manage the PWT. The 5-1-1 & gritty mixes drain so well that they really help PWT management in very shallow containers, but mean you have to water more and more frequently in taller containers. So, there is a trade-off. I find it very unfortunate that people on these forums have been SO misinformed about PWT that they severely limit their container media choices.

Frank, I have attached a pdf from the horticulture group at North Carolina State University, who, in my opinion along with the University of Florida, have the best horticultural scientists in the world. It is the best short primer on potting soils I have found. I hope it is of some use to you in your potting mix decision process. There is even a figure describing Art Spomer's famous sponge explanation of the effect of container height on the perched water table.

Good luck with your figs!

Rob,

That is priceless info.  Thanks so much.

FiggyFrank
At Lowe's you can get pine bark for $ 1.41 a cubic foot
Their bag contains 2 cu fts and is $ 2.82 (not including taxes)

Thank you Sal.