I'm wondering why we all go through ziploc type bags with damp spaghnum moss or damp paper towels or soil/perlite mix in plastic containers first, then transplant in a 1-gallon pot and on to a 3-gallon pot?  Has anyone attempted a cutting in a 3-gallon pot with potting soil/perlite?

Yes

dont do the baggie thing here, cant get it to work. but i have started right out in one-gal pots. just pop a 2 litre soda bottle over the top. with the bottem cut off. many would say it shouldnt be done that way. but like i said i cant get the baggie thing to work, so i root right in the pots, with no problems i might add. SCORING helps greatly too i might add.

Wait until May, stick in soil, keep moist and wait. Fertilize with slow release after 3 months.  Done.

Steve,

Other than limited space for the potted cuttings, you would have to provide the optimal conditions for rooting. Control of moisture, temperature and light being some of the limiting factors. It is easier to control a smaller environment for optimal rooting.

But there is no reason why you cannot use 3 gallon pots if you have the facilities.

Dave,

How long does it take to go from cutting to a growing 1 gallon potted plant with your rooting technique? Thanks.

Yea, I like Dominick's plan, so much easier.

For Houston plant in January or February instead of May.

Cups are good (especially if you are doing a lot of cuttings), since you don't tie up a lot of potting mix with cuttings that may fail.  Success rate is  better for me indoors using cups than starting in pots (whether inside or outside), or outside in ground. 

Also...with cups it's easier to start indoors since they don't take up as much room.   And when you start them indoors, you can start them early (as in...now), to get a jump start on the coming season.

. 

I have stuck cuttings into one gal pots using what i have stated above in mid april, and transplanted in ground in july (full root ball). i would have to add that i normaly do the one gal pot thing when i have alot of cuttings and plan on them sitting in that pot awhile. the above situation was three desert king cuttings that after planted in ground in july shot up to three foot tall before going dormant in october.

I have read about the baggie method, seen youtube vids about it. followed step by step instructions. but never got it to work. but am still trying. I am working on a new method i havent seen anything on before. a small machine i will have to build for this method i am getting a parts list down right now for it. i will likly be trying it out in spring.

Another thing i must add. i have been looking alot at these clear cups and have decided to try them for myself. i am liking what i am seeing. so for large scale indoor i would have to say that cups are the way to go. outdoor i would use a misting table. but i think this new ideal im working on may make both obsolite.

The main reason I don't do the larger pots is "limited space". After the cuttings root I put them in whatever pots I have, 4x4, 6 inch round, etc. They stay in those until spring. Only a few lucky ones get to have leg room in 1 gallon pots. When the weather breaks in spring they all get moved to larger pots. I know if they were in larger pots to begin with they would grow larger than the ones in smaller pots but they survive.

The biggest stumbling block using cups (for me at least) is setting them up in such a way so as  to minimize knocking them over.  I have seen racks and trays with slots for the cups.  If I could find a couple I would buy them in a heartbeat.

Dave,
Thanks for the info. I am currently devising an experiment for scoring and hormone using your posted method. I will be looking for the best scoring depth and width.

One other factor that is an advantage for the baggie method and cups is, after the cutting is callused the % that rot is decreased. Very few callused cuttings that I have planted have rotted, less that 1%.
I go from 1 gallon to 5 gallon buckets and have had good growth (4 feet) over a 5 month growing season, I have not used 3 gallon containers.

Steve,
You could start the cuttings in baggies and transplant directly outdoors after last frost as suggested by the other posts.

My one comment to the clear cups is the upside down cup method shown by ForeverFigs "Vince" in his video.  I'm going to try this on my next set of cuttings, it has to be so much easier doing the transplanting to the 1-gallon pot using this method.

AZ Dave - if you use the upside down cup method the base is larger perhaps reducing the chance of tip over.

imagine the paradise for the gnats..more room from roots and more damage to cause... unless you have warm weather or can keep a greenhouse at that  temp needed, you are only making space for these nasty creatures.  I noticed that my cuttings in larger cups, like 7 /11 drinks.. they did not do so well for me, and for some reason, the gnats thrived on them...so, no thanks for big pots

Yikes, if I'm not back in two days call out the search party.  Goin' lookin' for that video.

AZ Dave - call off the search, found it

http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post/Winter-Projects-6116198

U da Man!

Thank you Steve.

When you gradually move them from smaller pots to larger pots you get a better shape of the rootball since they get rootbound in each container as well.

Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

These are some dormant cuttings that were put directly into large pots at the same time as my inground trees were budding out in the Spring.  They were partially shaded with no cover over them.   The cuttings were 6-8 inches long.

In spring, I just lay them in the 500 gallon ground, and they grow!

Suzi

Dave,
     Those inverted 32oz deli cups are virtually impossible to tip over(accidently).  All the weight is in the bottom, plus the wide base makes them very stable. In addition, all the extra dirt in the bottom allows more room for root growth. Give it a try on a couple of cuttings and you will definately see the advantages. ( Using a 24oz clear cup as a humidity dome allows you to place the cup "securely" on top without having to tape it in place.)

I agree that all the baggies, cups, sphagnum, etc, can be a waste of time, depending on your circumstances.  Certainly a 3 gallon pot will work.  However, I like using a 1 gallon pot, rather than a 3 gallon, for the following reasons:

1.  For rooting, I like a mix of 50/50 perlite and potting mix.  But once I transplant to the 3 gallon pot I like to switch over to a mix of mostly pine bark, with a touch of lime, fertilizer, perlite, and possibly peat moss thrown in.  The perlite/potting mix can get soggy if you have a large 3 gallon container full of it.
2.  I may move my cuttings around a bit while they're young. and I like to cover with plastic bags.  It's easier to move and cover the smaller pots. 
3.  The rootball may end up being better if you start in a 1 gallon pot, then move to the larger.  Most roots will grow outward or downward until they hit something.  If you start in a 1 gallon pot, you'll get a small, compact rootball, then when you pot up you can decide if this is ok, or you can try to spread it out.  If you start in a 3 gallon pot, you may end up with most of your root mass towards the outside of the pot, making it harder to work with.

Just my thoughts.