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Frankallen

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Posted Reply with quote  #1 
I have a friend that has a huge Fig Tree and he told me to come and get all the cuttings I want. Should I wait for Spring or will it do just as we'll now?. Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks,

Frank from Bama
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Frank from Bama-  Zone 7-b Alabama

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jdarden1963

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Posted Reply with quote  #2 
From what I understand, you can take cuttings and root them anytime of year.  I think most people take cuttings after the tree goes dormant.  Others who know more than I do will probably be able to give more help.
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Jules

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NE Texas

Wish List: LSU Thibodeaux, LSU Red, Kathleen's Black, Lebanese Red, Jolly Tiger, Black Madeira, Purple Passion, Zingerilla (sp?), Martin's Purple Black, BA-1, White Ischia, any red fig, any dark fig or unknown
FiggyFrank

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Posted Reply with quote  #3 
Absolutely.  Almost a year ago to the day, I rooted a bunch of cuttings from an active tree and they thrived.  First and second year wood will work best.  Hardest part will be keeping the cuttings happy during the winter, providing the heat and light that's needed.
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Frank
zone 7a - VA
cobb4861

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Posted Reply with quote  #4 
I have a bunch of cuttings that I started in August that I just potted up to 1 gal.  Another batch that I just started a week ago that are already sending out roots.
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Meghan Cobb ~ Growing zone 9 Wish List: Pane e Vino White and /or Dark, De la Reina, Iranian mountain fig and anything else that is great to grow or at least try in the hot and humid Southeast Texas.
dkirtexas

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Posted Reply with quote  #5 
Any time is okay, keep them in a warm, filtered light place and DON'T overwater.

Good luck
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Thx, glad to be here

Danny K "EL CAZADOR DE HIGO"
Waskom Tx Zone 7B/8

Wish list: anything anyone wants me to have. LSU RED.  Any LSU fig.
ascpete

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Posted Reply with quote  #6 
Frank,
Yes, in fact they will usually root better than spring cuttings, because they have not been exposed to severe weather, as long as the tree had gone dormant before they were cut, and they are properly stored  in the refrigerator. Cuttins can also be taken and rooted at any time of the year, they are just treated different when green.

But, if it's a friend, doing a few air layers will get you producing plants (trees) by next summer.
Good Luck.
Feigenbaum

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Posted Reply with quote  #7 
I rooted several cuttings in March and now again at the end of August.
In my opinion fall cuttings root much faster than dormant ones. In fact I rooted two cuttings in just 6 days when it was very hot and humid over here. My spring cuttings needed about 2 to three weeks. The critical point might as others mentioned to get them over the wintertime when there will be a lag of light... I am going to learn more about that process too.
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Hi from Germany! (Zone 7b) Christian
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Posted Reply with quote  #8 
I have rooted as late as half august and they worked, I have only gotten about 55% success rate but others have done better.
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Frankallen

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Posted Reply with quote  #9 
Thank y'all so much! I am still very new at this,but I am learning,with great people like you all!

Thanks Again,


Frank
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Frank from Bama-  Zone 7-b Alabama

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Feigenbaum

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Posted Reply with quote  #10 
To my surprise i had a hundred % success now.
First time before.
With my spring cuttings i had about 60%
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Hi from Germany! (Zone 7b) Christian
Centurion

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Posted Reply with quote  #11 
Worth repeating, especially the over watering part:

Quote:
Originally Posted by dkirtexas
Any time is okay, keep them in a warm, filtered light place and DON'T overwater.
Good luck



And by rooting now, you should have something large enough to plant outdoors next spring.
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Dave
Verde Valley, AZ
Zone 8
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Posted Reply with quote  #12 
Thanks for the great info. This site has a lot of knowledge. Time to go cut my tree up I guess :).
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Jeff in zone 5b
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lifigs

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Posted Reply with quote  #13 
I took some cuttings from a neighbors tree (with permission) on August 27th and definitely more than half are showing signs of root growth out the bottom of the container.  I think the issue is cuttings this time of year won't ship well and need to be planted right away.
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Bill Long Island (Nassau) 7a,NY

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DesertDance

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Posted Reply with quote  #14 
Just so you know, a fig tree is considered a weed in many places.  The cuttings will root.  This is a tree that wants to live, unless you put it under artificial conditions.  Plant the cuttings horizontally in ground, and when the sun shines in spring, you will have trees, like too many!

Suzi
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Zone 9b, Southern California. "First year they sleep, Second year they creep, Third year they leap!"  Wish List:  I wish all of you happy fig collecting!  My wishes have been fulfilled!
cobb4861

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Posted Reply with quote  #15 
I like what Danny said at the Fig Gig.  Just leave it alone!  I personally have a hard time with that.  I want to go peak at them every other day just to see what has changed. 
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Meghan Cobb ~ Growing zone 9 Wish List: Pane e Vino White and /or Dark, De la Reina, Iranian mountain fig and anything else that is great to grow or at least try in the hot and humid Southeast Texas.
susieqz

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Posted Reply with quote  #16 
it darn well better work. i started 9 cuttings 3 days ago.
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susie 
wish list:  nothing. i can't grow cuttings  . right now, i have  6 trees showing no signs of fmv. i'd like to keep it that way' 

i was told that if i couldn't deal with fmv, i should grow peaches, so i got a peach tree to live with my clean figs.
Maro2Bear

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Posted Reply with quote  #17 
Greetings all

I started a bunch of dormant cuttings this past winter with pretty good success rate. What's the best technique to start new trees from green cuttings now? Is it simply cutting some limbs back and inserting in growing medium with increased humidity until they root? Do you strip off all active leaves, or most leaves? With temps today at the 100 degree mark here in Maryland, these hardly feel like " Fall Cuttings."

Thanks in advance for any assistance or pointers.
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Mark B., Glenn Dale, MD Zone 7a
ascpete

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Posted Reply with quote  #18 
Here is a simple summer rooting method that has worked... It can also be used at any time of the year.
Feigenbaum

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Posted Reply with quote  #19 
I am asking myself what is the best method for getting an late summer/fall cutting over the winter especially when you live in colder climates with short and dark days...keep the young plant relatively warm and growing, or put it at about december/january in cooler place and let it go dormant?
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Hi from Germany! (Zone 7b) Christian
Grasa

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Posted Reply with quote  #20 
I'd look for rooting suckers, if your friend allows, best is to open a larger hole on a clear cup, so you see when roots emerge, and thread the new sucker through the hole, fill the cup with soil, any soil, even dirt from around the tree, and let it sit there for a while.... when you return, the cup should be full or roots, all you have to do is to cut it away from the mother tree and you will have a new tree with no fuss of rooting the cutting.  I have several going on around my tree now, some are pretty ready to be severed.  Much easier this way and no gnat worry.
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Grasa
Seattle, WA
Feigenbaum

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Posted Reply with quote  #21 
Quote:
Originally Posted by alanmercieca
If your Zone 7B is anything like ours, all you'd really need to do is leave them outside unless temperatures could fall to freezing temperatures, through my own experiences dry heat is the greatest complication to protecting young plants during cold parts of the year. Outside would give the plants more light too. The more colder darker climates would basically need a homemade indoor greenhouse, and a growing light that does not burn the plants, and that does not dry out the soil too much.


I think I might keep it in a unheated room directly in front of the window so the plants get as much light as possible. 
Because I started the cuttings inside and the nights drop down to temps at around  55 degrees now I will keep them indoors.Let's see if they 'll go into a dormant or slow growing mode in the winter...
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Hi from Germany! (Zone 7b) Christian
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