I recently re-potted both my Hardy Chicago and Ronde de Bordeaux into a 5:1:1 ratio of pine fines, peat moss and perlite.  For each pot I also mixed about a handful of Espoma organic garden lime.  I have been watering with Foliage Pro 9-3-6 at the rate of 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon per gallon which is around (or slightly greater) than the rate they suggest for "maintenance".  Note that for "production" they recommend a somewhat higher rate.  My plan is to back off on the fertilizer soon as it is getting close to the time when they will start going into dormancy.

The RdB was re-potted about 10 days ago and the HC was done about 4 days ago.  This involved removing all the soil from the roots and a bit of root pruning.  The RdB was starting to get root-bound so I'm glad I did it. It's been cool since then and I have been keeping the trees in a shaded area.  I expected them to go through some stress but luckily only once have I observed the leaves (on the RdB) looking flaccid and this was quickly taken care of by watering.

Here's the issue - both trees are showing some yellowing of the leaves with possible evidence of what could be rust (see images).  The HC had showed a little bit of yellowing prior to re-potting but the RdB did not.  Of course it is nearly time for the leaves to start changing color anyway but my other container trees and in-ground tree have not shown any yellowing (though they are different varieties).  This is my first experience with the 5-1-1 mix and re-potting.  It is my understanding that FoliagePro has all the necessary micronutrients.  Is my rate of application in line with what others use FoliagePro at?  Should I try adding additional micronutrients? Is the yellowing an effect of re-potting stress rather than the potting media? Any other ideas?  Thanks!

Steve

FYI, for the aficionados here is the source of my "pine fines":

http://www.kamlar.com/KamPBmulch.html

Possible transplantation shock, in combination with shorter days, and cooler weather...leading to yellowing leaves.  Also,  pruning work should be done as trees break dormancy in the Spring, and fert's should've been stopped by end of July so that new growth could harden-off properly before cold temp's. settle in.

For now, give those shocky trees some TLC and they will probably pull through the out-of-season treatment.  : ) 

I don't think your growing medium, and fert's. are the problem.

Good luck.

Frank

Thanks Frank.  The problem isn't too severe but you know how it is - these trees are my babies darn it!  I've read about copper sprays for rust but I'm not sure if it is worth spraying at this point as they will lose their leaves soon anyway.  So would you recommend immediately stopping fertilzer now even though I'm using a soil-less mix?

Our local fig trees four hours south (Norfolk, Va) of you are just starting to yellow and starting the dormancy process. That combined with the stripping of the roots with up-potting probably is doing the yellowing. 

Would just keep an eye on them and make sure the soil does not completely dry out. Use a soil moisture probe and be sure to not let the amount go below -10 bars. Everything should be fine till next spring.

sounds like the transplantation stress along with the time of the season made your leaves start the process a little earlier than the other trees, I wouldn't worry about it too much. But I'm sure others with more experience will have a better idea than me.

with temp dropping, my trees are turning color. i wouldn't worry too much. if the bud on the tip is fine, then the rest should be fine also.

Cool - thanks for the reassurance.  Maybe if one of these varieties hadn't recently sold for over $350 on ebay I wouldn't have been so concerned :)

I rooted pruned for the first time this year one of my trees I've had for many years.  It ended up losing all its leaves and I really thought I killed it.  It effectively went into dormancy for about 2-3 months, basically the prime growing season, but now it is back in full force and looks better than ever.  Thankfully, winter is warm and sunny in CA so not that much of an issue.     

You are facing two issues: transplant shock and fall. I wouldn't be concerned unless there is dieback at the tips.