Register  |   | 
 
Encanto Farms Nursery > Topics > FERTILIZER COMBINATIONS
 
 


Reply
  Author   Comment  
BronxFigs

Registered:
Posts: 1,864
Posted Reply with quote  #1 
This season, I started to use "ESPOMA- IRON TONE" on my fig trees.  Within a week, I noticed that the leaves turned a dark, spinach-green, and leaves looked much healthier and robust.  Espoma formulations also contain a good mix of other elements, and nutrients, and doesn't burn roots when the correct application rate is used...and, the best part ... NO STINK!

Espoma makes a number of different organic fertilizers.  Question:  If I combine two different Espoma fertilizers, can the N-P-K ratios be added up?

For example:  I want a fertilizer that has a N-P-K ratio of approx. 9-3-6.  Espoma "Tree-Tone" has a ratio of 6-3-2.  The Espoma "Iron-Tone" has a ratio of 2-1-3.  If I mixed these two formulations together, I will have a fertilizer with ratios of 8-4-5...and that's close to the 9-3-6 ratio that I want, and I will still have the benefit of the iron, and other added nutrients....and, NO STINK.  I will also add Granular Limestone to the batch.  This fertilizer mix will be sprinkled around the root zone.  I grow in containers.

Thoughts, opinions, advice?  Does this sound like a plan?



Frank
__________________
Bronx, NYC
Zone-7
newnandawg

Registered:
Posts: 2,535
Posted Reply with quote  #2 
Frank, is the formulation/mixture the same for both products? Are they both totally organic fertilizers?

Readily soluble fertilizer salts (Miracle Grow) and organic fertilizers can not be added together to obtain a total NPK.

s
BronxFigs

Registered:
Posts: 1,864
Posted Reply with quote  #3 
Yes....totally organic.   And this family of ESPOMA formulations are just different N-P-K ratios, tailored for trees, roses, tomatoes, etc.   All slow acting, and non-burning.  Very easy to use....just sprinkle, and water.

I would imagine that the instant soluble-salts ferts. like MG, etc. would throw off the desired ratios.

Thanks for the interest, and the caveats.


Frank
__________________
Bronx, NYC
Zone-7
Figsation

Avatar / Picture

Registered:
Posts: 63
Posted Reply with quote  #4 
Frank, What is the PH of your soil? Sometimes when a plant responds to iron, this can be a sign that the PH is too high.
__________________
Figsation

Coastal California Zone 10a
jake

Avatar / Picture

Registered:
Posts: 313
Posted Reply with quote  #5 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BronxFigs
This season, I started to use "ESPOMA- IRON TONE" on my fig trees.  Within a week, I noticed that the leaves turned a dark, spinach-green, and leaves looked much healthier and robust.  Espoma formulations also contain a good mix of other elements, and nutrients, and doesn't burn roots when the correct application rate is used...and, the best part ... NO STINK!

Espoma makes a number of different organic fertilizers.  Question:  If I combine two different Espoma fertilizers, can the N-P-K ratios be added up?

For example:  I want a fertilizer that has a N-P-K ratio of approx. 9-3-6.  Espoma "Tree-Tone" has a ratio of 6-3-2.  The Espoma "Iron-Tone" has a ratio of 2-1-3.  If I mixed these two formulations together, I will have a fertilizer with ratios of 8-4-5...and that's close to the 9-3-6 ratio that I want, and I will still have the benefit of the iron, and other added nutrients....and, NO STINK.  I will also add Granular Limestone to the batch.  This fertilizer mix will be sprinkled around the root zone.  I grow in containers.

Thoughts, opinions, advice?  Does this sound like a plan?



Frank

Actually the lower numbers dilute the higher numbers. Mixed together you will get  4-2-2.5

Then to get what you want you have to use twice the amount.
__________________
Jake Zone 8B Crystal clear Gulf of Mexico,White sand beaches,Citrus trees, Large hurricanes,and tornadoes.

Wish list: Scott's Yellow ( now have cuttings, Spring will tell)
bullet08

Avatar / Picture

Registered:
Posts: 6,920
Posted Reply with quote  #6 
i have been using espoma garden lime (and should have stuck with it). just tried their plant-tone. don't see much improvment on my trees. maybe i'll add some iron-tone on top of it.
__________________
Pete
Durham, NC
Zone 7b

"don't talk to me about naval tradition. It's nothing but rum, sodomy and the lash." - sir winston churchill
"the problem with socialism is that eventually you run out of other people's money." - the baroness thatcher

***** all my figs have FMV/FMD, in case you're wondering. *****
***** and... i don't sell things. what little i have will be posted here in winter for first come first serve base to be shared. no, i'm not a socialist...*****
springlakenj

Avatar / Picture

Registered:
Posts: 281
Posted Reply with quote  #7 
Frank,

I believe the #s are percentage of nitrogen, phosphoros and potassium, by weight, in that order. So you would average the two, not add.
Example, a 10 lb bag of 20-20-20, would be 2 pounds of each.
So, if you combined one pound of 5% N and one pound of 15% N, you would have 2 pounds of 10% N.
__________________
John G. Spring Lake Hts, NJ Zone 7A

BronxFigs

Registered:
Posts: 1,864
Posted Reply with quote  #8 
Well...I certainly appreciate the answers to my questions and I was surprised to read how wrong my reasoning, or, guesses, where.  Nothing is ever simple. Too bad.

So.... I will continue to use the Espoma, Iron-Tone, and liquid Foliage-Pro. 9-6-3.

Thanks for the quick education re: figuring out fert. ratios, etc.  Like I said...nothings is ever simple.  Now, I know better...but, I wish it worked my way.  : )



Frank
__________________
Bronx, NYC
Zone-7
ascpete

Registered:
Posts: 1,942
Posted Reply with quote  #9 
Frank,
Its averaged as explained in post #7, by John G.
I have used the Garden-tone (3-4-4) or Plant-tone (5-3-3) and Dolemite Limestone since last year on figs. If you review the labels you will see that almost 1% (0.6%) is water soluble Nitrogen. My recipe of 1 cup per 5 gallons of potting mix is actually 1/2 the manufacturers recommended application. I supplement the Espoma with Miracle Grow General Purpose (24-8-16) at 1 tablespoon per gallon of water weekly, for the first 2 months of the season. The Espoma provides long term insoluble nutrients and innoculates the potting mix with beneficial bacteria and fungi to help breakdown those nutrient and the added Dolemite limestone to a usable form. The MG is usually flushed by rain or my constant watering (I water every day).

IMO, if an added boost is required for the Epoma, any balanced fertilizer product could be added, and for mature trees, the Espoma alone at the recommended application would probably be sufficient. Miracle Grow fertilizer isn't "glamorous" but it works, and can be diluted down to whatever you need (keeping the 3-1-2 ratio).
BronxFigs

Registered:
Posts: 1,864
Posted Reply with quote  #10 
Hi Pete,

I knew you would chime in, and I thank-you. 

I remembered your fert. recommendations, and I wanted to also try the 'Iron-Tone'.  I like the Espoma products because of what else they put into their products like the innoculates, etc.  I figured that I could mix two different formulas together, and get closer to the 9-3-6 ratio, but of course I didn't think things through, and I added instead of avereged out the N-P-K.  I'm glad forum members straightened out my poor thinking.

I do the MG jolt, along with the Foliage-Pro.  Now, I added Espoma Iron-Tone and like the resulting deep green leaves. 

I was just curious about the mixing of two compatible formulas manufactured by the same company. 

I was wrong.


Frank
__________________
Bronx, NYC
Zone-7
ascpete

Registered:
Posts: 1,942
Posted Reply with quote  #11 
Frank,
I've nothing against Foliage-Pro, but if you dilute MG to 1 teaspoon per gallon of water, you are at almost the same NPK analysis as FP at its recommended strength. I use MG @ 1 teaspoon per gallon (8-2.6-5.3) for Foliar feeding and have been doing this for years as a boost for young plants.
Grasa

Registered:
Posts: 1,819
Posted Reply with quote  #12 
I  learned from  my towing truck driver,  to soak up the bunny pee and poop for4 days - then water it down turning it into a tea like fertilizer- and soak thei roots every week.Since my bunny's fertilizer is free of cost, I gave it a try- also, since the weather improved, I noticed a great result. the liquid fertilizer is amazing for my tomatoes also.  He also told me to do the same with the Hens'. 4-5 days soaking and diluting it and applying to the roots only. So watering from the bottom is best.
__________________
Grasa
Seattle, WA
BronxFigs

Registered:
Posts: 1,864
Posted Reply with quote  #13 
@ Pete:

I bought many bottles of 'Foliage Pro' when I finally found a retailer.  MG diluted is virtually the same, like you state.

I'm amazed at all the snake-oil type products that I buy on impulse.  I'm a sucker for a good label.  I want to be convinced that I'm buying a new, magic elixir.

Fertilizer season is almost over anyway. 


Frank
__________________
Bronx, NYC
Zone-7
greg88

Registered:
Posts: 800
Posted Reply with quote  #14 

What are y'alls thoughts on "Superthrive"?
__________________
Greg North West Arkanasas Zone 6b
Wish list: any SPECTACULAR cold hardy figs, and/or perhaps a Niagra Bl., Laradek EBT, Kathleen's Bl, Hunt, a great UNK or anything anyone wants me to have???
BronxFigs

Registered:
Posts: 1,864
Posted Reply with quote  #15 
Greg....

I will try anything that I "think" will work, up to and including drinking 'Superthrive' if it will make my figs grow better. 

Seriously, the ads for this stuff makes it sound great, but does it work?  I don't have a clue.  I can't see the harm in using it as directed.

I still dissolve a Centrum vitamin tablet in a gallon of water.  I like the idea of adding minerals, etc. to my watering bucket.   It makes me feel good.


Frank
__________________
Bronx, NYC
Zone-7
newnandawg

Registered:
Posts: 2,535
Posted Reply with quote  #16 
I use it 1/4 tsp per gal when transplanting my Root Riot
cubes to one gal pots. I also use it on other plants for
the same purpose. Appears to provide a kick and reduce
transplant shock.
Chivas

Registered:
Posts: 1,675
Posted Reply with quote  #17 
I soak bare roots or cuttings in super thrive before putting into a pot, but how much it does I cannot say, for bareroot it seems to do about the same as kelp soaked in water.  If I don't do it, I don't think it would make a different though.
__________________
Canada Zone 6B
ascpete

Registered:
Posts: 1,942
Posted Reply with quote  #18 
Frank,
I thought I should post a simple test I've been conducting on my Petite Negri EL which is planted in a 4 gallon pot. I added 1-1/2 tablespoon of Ironite to the monthly feeding 1/3 cup Espoma Garden-tone at the beginning of July. The leaves have thickened up and the plant is producing healthier looking leaves (uniform in thickness, with minimal visible leaf mosaic). This plant had the thinnest leaves of all the fig cultivars in my yard, it no longer has that status. It may also be due to the sunlight which was missing for most of June. This is currently the only plant that has been given Ironite.

BTW the Iron-tone could be used as a supplement to the Garden-tone or Plant-tone, for the increased Iron.

Attached Images
jpeg Leaf_PetiteNegri_7-26-13.jpg (136.52 KB, 85 views)
jpeg Leaf_PNel.jpg (149.21 KB, 655 views)
BronxFigs

Registered:
Posts: 1,864
Posted Reply with quote  #19 
Pete:

You used "Ironite" in combination with the Espoma, Garden-Tone.  I used the Espoma, Iron-Tone with similar looking results regarding the leaves.  Both color and texture improved, and trees look healthier.

I will continue to use the Espoma, Iron-Tone and see if this trend continues.  I cannot draw any conclusions because I didn't set up any controls, experiments, etc.  But, the "Ironite" and the "Iron-Tone" seems to have improved the color and texture of the leaves.

Thanks for the added information.


Frank
__________________
Bronx, NYC
Zone-7
ascpete

Registered:
Posts: 1,942
Posted Reply with quote  #20 
Frank,
I wanted to post an update of the Petite Negri that I had started treating with the fertilizer combination (Garden-tone and Ironite). The combination as previously posted was 1/3 cup garden-tone with 1-1/2 tablespoon Ironite, one application was made on 7/6/13 .  It has not received any other fertilizer since the beginning of July (no Miracle Grow weekly feeding or Garden-tone) It has grow to almost 4 feet and the leaves are almost as thick as my fig tree with the thickest leaves, improved Celeste. I plan on treating several other plants (asymptomatic FMD) to compare them to untreated siblings.

BTW the leaves and leaf stems are thick and strong enough to hold a quarter with minimal deflection (bending).

Inline imageInline image

Attached Images
jpeg Leaf_PetiteEL_at34dayIronite_8-10-13.jpg (224.29 KB, 1626 views)
jpeg Leaf_PetiteEL_at34dayIronite1_8-10-13.jpg (341.78 KB, 635 views)
jpeg Leaf_PetiteEL_at34dayIronite2_8-10-13.jpg (129.76 KB, 28 views)
jpeg Leaf_PetiteEL_at34dayIronite3_8-10-13.jpg (138.98 KB, 32 views)
jpeg Leaf_PetiteEL_at34dayIronite4_8-10-13.jpg (136.00 KB, 36 views)
BronxFigs

Registered:
Posts: 1,864
Posted Reply with quote  #21 
Pete,

Thanks for the updated observations and photos.  Your trees look terrific, and look at the new, healthy, growth on that stem!  Am I correct....are these before and after photos?  Nice results!

My trees continue to have healthy looking leaves with no visible signs of rust, despite the humid, rainy, weather.  The texture of the leaves remains thick, tough, leathery, dark-green, and not paper-thin.  I don't know what it does, but it seems to do something good for the fig trees.

I wonder if this iron "tonic" supplement, will help virus-compromised trees, and delay the onset of rust infections?

In my case, I have to say that after only a few iron treatments, my trees never looked better.  Not very scientific, but it is what it is. 

I will definitely start next season with the iron supplements, along with the organic ESPOMA fertilizers, and, Kelp Meal.

Continued good luck, and thanks for adding to our knowledge.  Any, and all, observations, help.


Frank
__________________
Bronx, NYC
Zone-7
ascpete

Registered:
Posts: 1,942
Posted Reply with quote  #22 
Frank,
You're welcome.
Yes the two larger pictures are Before and After, the difference is time, 40 days and 1-1/2 tablespoon of Ironite supplement.
The Iron supplement seems to help this virus-compromised tree and will help the plant to fight off infections (increased overall health). The Petite Negri actually has visible rust inoculation on several leaves, but due to their heath, it is doing minor damage at this time.
Hopefully I will have more results in another month with other plants for comparisons.
Thanks and Best of Luck to you.
BronxFigs

Registered:
Posts: 1,864
Posted Reply with quote  #23 
Pete:

Amazing to see that pathetic-looking twig, grow into something respectable, and over a 40 day period.  Maybe when used on sickly plants it will help them become and grow stronger. 

The photos seem to suggest this benefit.


Thanks.


Frank
__________________
Bronx, NYC
Zone-7
ascpete

Registered:
Posts: 1,942
Posted Reply with quote  #24 
Frank,
Just wanted to add another update. The tree has not stopped growing, even with the cool nighttime temperatures. I have not added any additional fertilizer since the beginning of July, at the time of the Ironite treatment. The trunk caliper has increased along with the height. The tree has also not lost a single leaf, due to age, disease or rust. I have left two (2) figs on the tree and am pinching the rest  as they develop.

[image]
Chivas

Registered:
Posts: 1,675
Posted Reply with quote  #25 
I found this pdf for fertilizer on fig trees in Valencia, I was curious of anyones thoughts on this.  

http://www.ivia.es/sdta/pdf/revista/frutales/17tema22.pdf

They of course are able to fertilizer different than us with their climate so it's not too suitable for me anyways but I was planning for a schedule based on this

April
6-5-7-10 + iron
May
10-12-10-15
June - July
20-12-17-20 _ iron
August
15-10-20-10- Iron
September
12-5-14-8

Although I may cut out the September one, it all depends on what fertilizer I use, if it's fast acting then I may try a couple trees but most likely I will only go to half august or so.

the fourth number is for magnesium.
__________________
Canada Zone 6B
BronxFigs

Registered:
Posts: 1,864
Posted Reply with quote  #26 
Just saw the update Pete.Thanks.  The results can be seen.  The tree at least doubled in size, but also added wood to the stem, which looks to be about 1" across, above the soil-line.

I'm going to use the Espoma products for at least two more seasons.  So far, even with the lousy weather, all my trees are still dark green, show no, or, very little rust, and have grown nicely.  Leaves seem to be thicker textured, and more resistant to rust this year.  I think the added iron might have something to do with it.  The next few seasons will give me a better feel for the 2013 fertilizer substitution. 

I stopped all ferts. back in mid-July.  I would say within the next month, it's all over for 2013 season. Good riddance! The "Foliage-Pro" was great, but the Espoma stays in the medium longer and has other added nutrients formulated into it, and I think the quality of the growth was much better than with the straight "Foliage Pro".

This season was so bad, that this is the first year since 2007 that my work-horse, "Atreano" never set any figs!  I also lost a 6 ft. "Red Italian"....and the rest of my trees were still too young to bear figs, or, I pinched them off.  I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the Winter isn't as bad as the past Spring. 

(Note to Forum Members:  All my fig trees are containerized).


Frank
__________________
Bronx, NYC
Zone-7
dkirtexas

Registered:
Posts: 1,330
Posted Reply with quote  #27 
Great article, if I could read it, LOL
__________________
Thx, glad to be here

Danny K "EL CAZADOR DE HIGO"
Waskom Tx Zone 7B/8

Wish list: anything anyone wants me to have. LSU RED.  Any LSU fig.
ascpete

Registered:
Posts: 1,942
Posted Reply with quote  #28 
Chivas,
The PDF document lists most of the necessary macro and micro nutrients, it also notes the importance of Calcium, Magnesium and Iron in relatively larger quantities. The trees are in ground in alkaline soil so all the micro nutrients may not be necessary in the fertilizer.
Thanks for posting this document it makes for very interesting reading, especially the plant material analysis.

IMO, the first feeding in spring should be the one with the highest nitrogen ratio with iron to get the new leaves off to a good start and I combine liquid and organic solid fertilizer for balanced nutrients. The PDF also notes that feeding the soil microbes before the actual Fig tree is also beneficial to plant growth, for years I have done a one time application of Espoma-tone products and Dolemite Limestone to my garden in early spring to give the soil microbes a boost and have noticed the positive difference.
I'm still in the process of formulating a fertilizer schedule for older trees in containers, but it will definitely include a small dose of iron supplement. My main ingredients will be Espoma Garden-Tone (3-4-4), Dolemite Limestone (Calcium and Magnesium), Ironite and Miracle Grow General purpose Fertilizer (24-8-16 for the first month only).


Danny,
I don't read spanish either, but Google translator does a good job.
The Introduction,
Quote:
The fig (Ficus carica) is, along with olives, grapes and almonds, one typical species of the Mediterranean coast. the Community Valencia, after Baleares, Extremadura and Andalucia, is the larger area has grown in regular plantations, mainly in irrigation, and is the largest producer of fresh fruit for marketing in markets (figs and figs). The greatest concentration of plantations occur in areas of Camp d'Elx and Vega Baja (Elx, racer, Crevillente ...) in the province of Alicante, where acquired economic importance for their contribution to the level of rents farmers. In addition, there are numerous small plantations and trees spread (about 70,000) along all the Valenciana. The economic area dedicated to this fruit comes to about 613 hec-areas, of which about 482 acres are irrigated. The interest in the markets for this fruit, especially figs, has made many farmers care more carefully the plantations and in many cases the alternative raised the crop in its exploitation. Agricultural Station Elx Experimenal, under the Con- SELLERIA of Agriculture, Fisheries and Food, has launched a set experiences (varieties, fertilization, driving methods, etc.). with to guide farmers to optimizing profitability
of cultivation.
susieqz

Avatar / Picture

Registered:
Posts: 971
Posted Reply with quote  #29 
frank, i heard about getting dark green leaves, so i tried that iron stuff in my 5-1-1. i saw no results. will you please tell me how much you used?

i think i sprinkled it on at the package directions, more or less.
__________________
susie 
wish list:  nothing. i can't grow cuttings  . right now, i have  6 trees showing no signs of fmv. i'd like to keep it that way' 

i was told that if i couldn't deal with fmv, i should grow peaches, so i got a peach tree to live with my clean figs.
BronxFigs

Registered:
Posts: 1,864
Posted Reply with quote  #30 
Hi Susie:

I used the Espoma, in the late Spring, as the leaves developed.   I also followed package recommendations.  Pete used Ironite, I used "Espoma, Iron-Tone", in conjunction with diluted tonic of Miracle-Gro, All-Purpose plant food, 24-8-16 formula, once a month. 

Understand that "Ironite" is a supplement, Espoma, Iron-Tone is a complete organic fertilizer product.  Pete, I think, also uses a modified, 5:1:1 mix with the addition of limestone to counteract acidity.  Correct me if I'm wrong Pete....thanks.

It may be too late in the season for you to see results with your trees.  Of course, correct culture is also a requisite.


Frank
__________________
Bronx, NYC
Zone-7
ascpete

Registered:
Posts: 1,942
Posted Reply with quote  #31 
Susie,
Ironite is an Iron and Mineral (Micro nutrients) supplement that's available at the usual national chain stores. It is added in very small quantities and the Iron is 50% water soluble. In my case results were seen in less than 3 weeks from day of application as documented in the previous posted pictures.

[image]
BTW, one of the reasons why I document the measured amounts is that the results can be repeated anywhere and at anytime, to either dispute or endorse my results.

Frank,
You are correct, and I believe Susie has my 5-1-1-1 potting mix recipe.

Attached Images
jpeg Ironite_Analysis.jpg (64.71 KB, 404 views)

 
Attached Files
pdf 103-04.pdf (736.54 KB, 20 views)
susieqz

Avatar / Picture

Registered:
Posts: 971
Posted Reply with quote  #32 
thanks frank, n thanks pete.  yeah pete, i'm using yours.

turns out i bot iron tone.  i didn't even know there was more than one product.  the bag doesn't actually say it's a complete fertilizer. i didn't know it was, but if you say so, i'll use it like that. i guess it's too late in the season to use it, but i'll start it in spring.

guess i'll keep using 9-3 -6 as that's the same ratio as that MG stuff. i switched to this cause it's got those cool micronutrients.

hey pete, what do you think about eliminating the peat from 5-1-1 totally, so it lasts for years?
__________________
susie 
wish list:  nothing. i can't grow cuttings  . right now, i have  6 trees showing no signs of fmv. i'd like to keep it that way' 

i was told that if i couldn't deal with fmv, i should grow peaches, so i got a peach tree to live with my clean figs.
BronxFigs

Registered:
Posts: 1,864
Posted Reply with quote  #33 
Susie:

Are you growing in containers?  If you are, you will need to root prune your trees every 3-5 years, and it's good practice/culture to change out the growing medium for a fresh batch when replanting the tree(s).  No mediums with any organic material will "last for years".  The organics will eventually break down, lose nutrient value, and, probably sour because of poor drainage.  Those growers who plant trees in containers must provide everything the trees will need to thrive.


Frank

(Thanks Pete).
__________________
Bronx, NYC
Zone-7
susieqz

Avatar / Picture

Registered:
Posts: 971
Posted Reply with quote  #34 
thanks frank, i'm thinking if i use just bark n perlite, that will last for 4 years so i don't need to change soil til i gotta root prune. peat will be icky slop long before that.
i dont think any peat based mix can last more than a year or two without needing to be changed.

what do you think?
__________________
susie 
wish list:  nothing. i can't grow cuttings  . right now, i have  6 trees showing no signs of fmv. i'd like to keep it that way' 

i was told that if i couldn't deal with fmv, i should grow peaches, so i got a peach tree to live with my clean figs.
ascpete

Registered:
Posts: 1,942
Posted Reply with quote  #35 
Susie,
The only peat-less mixes that have heard of either uses Coconut Coir or is the 5-1-1 gritty mix, I have not used coir enough and have never used the gritty mix so I can't answer your question. What I can say is that as you reduce the peat, the mix drains faster and retains less moisture, so it needs to be watered more often.

<Edit> Since this is only my 2nd Year growing figs in containers, I have't had enough experience with the 5-1-1 mix to comment on its longevity, but last years mix is still draining and working properly this season (2 years).

Good Luck.
BronxFigs

Registered:
Posts: 1,864
Posted Reply with quote  #36 
Susie:

It would be irresponsible for me to comment.  I have no experiences using Perlite, and bark.  If I were to do this, I would plant just one tree into this medium, and see how the tree performs.  My gut tells me that the Perlite and bark combo will have very little water retention, unless the bark is soft and spongy, and next to zero in nutrients.  So whatever is needed by the tree, will have come from your watering solutions, tonics, etc.

Frank
__________________
Bronx, NYC
Zone-7
susieqz

Avatar / Picture

Registered:
Posts: 971
Posted Reply with quote  #37 
thanks guys. i think i'll try one tree and see, justfor fun. otherwise, i gotta change the mix every 2 years.i'm lazy.

how often do you guys change your mix?
__________________
susie 
wish list:  nothing. i can't grow cuttings  . right now, i have  6 trees showing no signs of fmv. i'd like to keep it that way' 

i was told that if i couldn't deal with fmv, i should grow peaches, so i got a peach tree to live with my clean figs.
Shawndturner

Registered:
Posts: 69
Posted Reply with quote  #38 
I feed my figs inGround with the following.  4 lbs of azomite, 4 lbs of blood Meal, 4 lbs of Bone Meal 4 lbs of Worm Casting.  You will not believe you eyes.  Feed only once in the spring.
Chivas

Registered:
Posts: 1,675
Posted Reply with quote  #39 
I hope Monserrat has no problem with me posting this, if he does I will gladly take out the parts from his book.

I was reading Pons Book and I saw what they are putting on in several areas in Spain.  I prefer Organic Fertilizers just as a personal choice and would like to be able to use similar formulas with readily available organic fertilizers for me.  I was hoping for some input on what I had worked out, it may need some tweaking but I am feeling pretty good about it right now.
One thing is that he recommends is that you put manure in the field every year to maintain healthy soil, microbes and structure etc.

This is what they need in Mallorca, at his farm so it may not be what I need, and he states that foliage and soil analysis is needed to be sure.  That being said it is a starting point for me.

According to what I have read with organics, blood meal typically needs 4-8 weeks to release N, bone meal needs 8-12 weeks and kelp can take anywhere from 2-6 weeks  (i am not sure about this one).  Since I believe I need more potassium with a heavier load of fruit, as I do for cucumbers, tomatoes and peppers, I am opting to try adding Potassium Chloride or Sulfate instead of the kelp meal.  I have included different recipes as when I broke it down what they are doing in Mallorca, they are having trees 4 x 4 metres.  In the pot of course is different so I will have to make adjustments over the course of time I am sure.  Since either source of Potassium is fairly quick release I am also thinking to not put it in a dry mix and instead use smaller quantities and use it with the weekly fish fertilizer so I can get a more controlled application of potassium, although I will have to test it out and see how it works.  For ones in the pots I will have to add mychroaziae sp.  to make sure the materials can be broken down and re inoculated my in ground trees every other year or maybe never depending on how they look. 

I am also thinking to only do one application of Lime a year and instead let the gypsum take its place as it is a faster acting calcium which I believe I also need as some varieties are getting black spots all over the fruit and leaves are showing deficiencies.  I am hoping to send off some leaves for analysis and see if they fall in the ranges of what Pons recommends and what they found in Valencia, with these results I can better adjust my fertilizer and also see how effective my formula works.  I did put in the full amount per year of a 2 x 2 metre tree and then broke that down into 3 seperate applications, the first month may change but not much else I don't think.

All comments/suggestions are welcome and encouraged please.



3 parts ammonia nitrate  34-0-0
25 parts calcium triple Calcium super phosphate  0-45-0
5 parts potassium chloride  0-0-60
 
Manure 25-30 t/ha                       0.048 t/tree
                                        
48 KG per tree total
 
 
 
Ammonina Nitrate 150 kg /ha             0.24 KG/tree
Tripple super phosphate 800 kg /ha1.28 KG/tree
Potassium Sulfate 250 kg /ha0.40 KG/tree
 
                                        1.92 KG per tree total
625 trees/hectare
 
 
 
 
Ammonina Nitrate 150 kg /ha             0.12 KG/tree
Tripple super phosphate 800 kg /ha0.64 KG/tree
Potassium Sulfate 250 kg /ha0.20 KG/tree
 
2 m x 2m                                0.96 KG per tree total
 
 
-------------------------------------------------------------------
 
3 times a year, March, May, July
 
blood meal   12-0-0   
bone meal    2-12-0
kelp meal     1-0-3   
 
 
weekly foliar feed cal mag plus
weekly feed of fish fertilizer + Potassium chloride or sulfate.
 
Once a month add epsom salts 1 tbps per gallon with fish.


add 1 tbps per gallon Gypsum with dry feed
 
 
Blood Meal              0.552 KG/tree
Bone Meal4.800 KG/tree
Kelp Meal8.000 KG/tree
 
                                       13.352  KG per tree total
625 trees/hectare
 
4 m x 4 m
 
 
Blood Meal              0.28 KG/tree
Bone Meal2.40 KG/tree
Kelp Meal4.00 KG/tree
 
2 m x 2m                                6.68 KG per tree total
 
 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
Divide by 3 applications
 
 
Blood Meal              0.093 KG/tree
Bone Meal0.800 KG/tree
Kelp Meal1.333 KG/tree
 
2 m x 2m                                2.226 KG per tree per application
 
 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
Blood Meal              0.28 KG/tree
Bone Meal2.40 KG/tree
potassium Sulfate0.20 KG/tree
 
2 m x 2m                                2.88 KG per tree total
 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
Blood Meal              0.093 KG/tree
Bone Meal0.800 KG/tree
potassium Sulfate0.067 KG/tree
 
2 m x 2m                                2.88 KG per tree per application
 
 
 
 
__________________
Canada Zone 6B
Previous Topic | Next Topic
Print
Reply