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Encanto Farms Nursery > Topics > Pictorial: The 5 Minute Mini SIP
 
 


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rafaelissimmo

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Posted Reply with quote  #101 
I have not seen any other pictures of roots at transplanting time in this thread.
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milehighgirl

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Posted Reply with quote  #102 
FMD,

I was also wondering why none of the instructions mention putting holes for better air flow in the rooting section of the SIPs. It seems that it would be a good idea as long as the wicking system took this in to account. Has anyone here done it?
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greenfig

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Posted Reply with quote  #103 
Yes, that is what I do. Lots of holes in the little upside down cup.
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ascpete

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Posted Reply with quote  #104 
2 Liter fabric wicked Soda Bottle Sip Update...
SIP_Roots_1-23-14.jpg 
3 weeks root growth in a 2-2-1 Coir-Peat-Perlite mix, with healthy looking roots. Watered once with 6 oz of water. The darker lower portion of mix indicates that it doesn't need watering. The surface is also dry, and there is no evidence of Fungus Gnats, even though it is being kept (purposely) next to a 5 gallon Limequat that is infested with fungus Gnats.

<edit>
Rewton,
You're welcome.

I have found that the fabric wick is not absolutely necessary, it will be included in all my SIPs because it distributes the water evenly through out the mix, eliminating the waterlogged container/wick bottom and can be used to wick water out of the planter.
If you drill 3 or 4 holes 1/4" diameter in the bottle cap and screw it back in place, the "soil" wick will perform quite well, I have two 2 liter SIPs with soil wicks under test and they are wicking properly, It just takes longer to wet all the soil in the planter when watered.
Rewton

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Posted Reply with quote  #105 
Thanks for posting this Pete.  I have my wicking material on order and will give this a try once it arrives.
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Steve MD zone 7a
milehighgirl

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Posted Reply with quote  #106 
I am a little confused about how the 2-liter SIPs are supposed to drain. Maybe I missed this but on other instructions I see a drain hole is drilled and a straw inserted so the water cannot get above a certain level. If I were to drill an overflow hole would it be below the holes drilled in the inverted top of the bottle, or is the water supposed to wick up through the holes?
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Looking for: Becane, Dalmatie, Doree, Florea, Hanc's EBT, Italian 258, LaRadek's EBT, Longue d'Aout, Marseilles White , Negronne, Nordland, Sal's EL, Strawberry Vert, ...anything cold hardy and short season. (Willing to pay for cuttings)
eboone

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Posted Reply with quote  #107 
I don't think you need an overflow hole, if you are filling the reservior by hand.  The overflow hole in the large SIPs is so you can know when you have filled the reservior, or to drain out excess water in an outdoor situation in the rain.
If you lift up the top part of the 2L soda bottle SIP, you can just add the 1 inch or 2 of water that you determine adequately waters the container, then replace top part.  The fabric wick pulls the water up into the top part.
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Ed
Zone 6A - Southwest PA     
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Short wish list: CDDG, LSU Red, Dark Greek (Navid),  Col Littman's Black Cross.   And any cold hardy early fig.
milehighgirl

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Posted Reply with quote  #108 
So the holes are supposed to remain above the water level, correct?
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USDA Zone 5b, Sunset 2b

Looking for: Becane, Dalmatie, Doree, Florea, Hanc's EBT, Italian 258, LaRadek's EBT, Longue d'Aout, Marseilles White , Negronne, Nordland, Sal's EL, Strawberry Vert, ...anything cold hardy and short season. (Willing to pay for cuttings)
eboone

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Posted Reply with quote  #109 
I think so, at least that is how mine are placed  :)
This is new to me too.  I have a dozen of these going so far, more to do in the next week or so.
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Ed
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Short wish list: CDDG, LSU Red, Dark Greek (Navid),  Col Littman's Black Cross.   And any cold hardy early fig.
ascpete

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Posted Reply with quote  #110 
Milehighgirl,
The holes are for aeration, they are the bottom of the aeration platform and are above the reservoir level whenever its filled.
  2 liter sip.jpg 
Ed's explanation for the lack of drainage holes is correct. The 2 liter SIPs were designed for indoor use, if you are placing them out in the weather, you could drill a hole at about 1-1/2" up from the bottom of the reservoir.

For growing fig cuttings the reservoir is only "filled" when the soil is dry and needs to be watered. By figuring out the "Reservoir Maximum Fill" amount, you never need to worry about overwatering. For my test 2 liter SIPS with 5 cups of mix, the maximum fill amount was 6 oz. Every mix batch will be different, but can be easily found. This same procedure can also be used with non SIP planters. Good Luck.
milehighgirl

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Posted Reply with quote  #111 
ascpete,

Thanks for the explanation. I think I was confused with FMD's method, but since the styrofoam is opaque the hole is necessary.
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USDA Zone 5b, Sunset 2b

Looking for: Becane, Dalmatie, Doree, Florea, Hanc's EBT, Italian 258, LaRadek's EBT, Longue d'Aout, Marseilles White , Negronne, Nordland, Sal's EL, Strawberry Vert, ...anything cold hardy and short season. (Willing to pay for cuttings)
FMD

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Posted Reply with quote  #112 
Quote:
Originally Posted by milehighgirl
FMD,

I was also wondering why none of the instructions mention putting holes for better air flow in the rooting section of the SIPs. It seems that it would be a good idea as long as the wicking system took this in to account. Has anyone here done it?



Milehighgirl,
Sorry for the late response. Air flow holes are certainly a desirable addition to the mini-sip but not essential, IMO. Someone should do a controlled trial.
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Frank
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North Florida Figs
FMD

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Posted Reply with quote  #113 
Here's my latest variation, based on a different wicking system discussed in this and other threads.

I like this one because it eliminates the straw and overflow hole and because it is modular.

Attached Images
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jpeg photo_2.JPG (69.93 KB, 61 views)
jpeg photo_3.JPG (65.15 KB, 56 views)
jpeg photo_4.JPG (108.37 KB, 55 views)


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Frank
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North Florida Figs

luigiwu

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Posted Reply with quote  #114 
Is there a way to measure if my mini-SIP design is wicking too much moisture? I am using a nespresso cup (to act as a wick/net cup) in a 18oz SOLO cup set in a 16oz cup for a water reservoir. The bottom of the nespresso cup/wick is packed with potting mix and pretty much sits in the bottom, so 1/4-inch of water. How do I know if the mix is too wet? For those who don't know the size of a nespresso cup is approx the size of a soda bottlecap

Since I am very forgetful I know SIPs are probably my only chance of rooting twigs. I am also worried about how long it'll take to do this trial run and am itching to just put them in SIPs...
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Rewton

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Posted Reply with quote  #115 
The amount of water pulled up into the mix is a function of the mix itself and the characteristics of the wick.  What you might do is to put mix in your cup that has the desired amount of moisture and weigh it.  The set up your SIP and let it equilibrate for a few days (without a cutting) then weigh the cup to see if too much water has been  aborbed into the mix or not enough. This will give you an idea of how your system is working.
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Steve MD zone 7a
sal

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Posted Reply with quote  #116 
I'm glad this thread got bumped because I plan on building one of these SIP's today for my cuttings. Great ideas in this thread and I have nice scale I use for my Wine Making so that will come in handy.
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luigiwu

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Posted Reply with quote  #117 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rewton
The amount of water pulled up into the mix is a function of the mix itself and the characteristics of the wick.  What you might do is to put mix in your cup that has the desired amount of moisture and weigh it.  The set up your SIP and let it equilibrate for a few days (without a cutting) then weigh the cup to see if too much water has been  aborbed into the mix or not enough. This will give you an idea of how your system is working.


I guess my main issue is I have no idea the desired amount of moisture! lol. I did try one using a rope wick and it doesn't seem to get as set as the nespresso. Maybe I'll do both...
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