bullet08
Registered:1284496248 Posts: 6,920
Posted 1308825244
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#1
yesterday, i pot up all my trees. once they were out of the 4g pot, i could see that bottom half of the roots were wrapping around the inside of the pot. not really bad yet. since i didn't want to shock the tree, i just pot it like that and will be doing repotting come spring. now question is, when i pull the trees out again in spring for repot, i'm thinking about root pruning. this from what i have read on this forum will help. how does most of the forum members prune their root? i read number of different methods. 1) using copper pipe and poke hole down to the bottome 2-3 places a month, 2) cut two 1/6 of the pie out of the soil/root out, and 3) cut 2" all around and at the bottom. which works the best? pete
__________________ Pete Durham, NC Zone 7b "don't talk to me about naval tradition. It's nothing but rum, sodomy and the lash." - sir winston churchill "the problem with socialism is that eventually you run out of other people's money." - the baroness thatcher ***** all my figs have FMV/FMD, in case you're wondering. ***** ***** and... i don't sell things. what little i have will be posted here in winter for first come first serve base to be shared. no, i'm not a socialist...*****
nypd5229
Registered:1290455653 Posts: 1,903
Posted 1308834581
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#2
For me I wouldn't root prune until your in the final pot size. Just loosen up the bottom a little before potting up if not there yet. For me, ( I have not done this yet), I would get a hand saw and slice 2 to 4 inches off the bottom and 2 inches off the side, in a square. I would do this every 2 yrs or so. I will not be going any larger than 24 to 30 inches in diameter.
__________________ Dominick
Zone 6a-MA
Dieseler
Registered:1215735852 Posts: 8,252
Posted 1308837438
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#3
Hi Bullet, what has worked for me over the years. I loosen rootball up a bit and put in final pot size and wait 2 seasons and pull to inspect roots to see if it needs root pruneing if not i wait till 3rd season then for sure i root prune. Some are more agressive than others. Once in final pot below If mine needs root pruning depending on size of rootball compared to pot i cut bottom and the top as well then i wedge out the sides for lack of better words. The sides i cut like this in picture. May not be perfect way but always has worked for me. Also i trim tree canopy as well, i forgot one season one 1 of my trees and following fig season tree drop most of its figs and this tree never did that ever. Here are couple picture to show its easier for me than explaining in words.
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Fig_Pruning_2.jpg (62.44 KB, 127 views)
nypd5229
Registered:1290455653 Posts: 1,903
Posted 1308838639
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#4
Thanks Martin- Forgot about the canopy- Balance is needed- if you don't trim both, the roots won't have enough capacity to suck up nutients.
__________________ Dominick
Zone 6a-MA
theman7676
Registered:1305721469 Posts: 361
Posted 1380578130
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#5
is it better to root trim in early spring, just before breaking dormancy or now before they go dormant ? does it even make a difference? its now october and i guess we have another 4-6 weeks or so in NE before we bring pots indoors thank you, eli
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rafaelissimmo
Registered:1335639347 Posts: 1,473
Posted 1380664206
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#6
Hi Pete
I asked about a hand saw, Bill of Bill's Figs told me that the roots would dull a handsaw pretty quickly, he recommends using a sharp shovel or a hand ax, I went with the hand ax. He told me to prune an inch and a half off the sides and bottom. And yes, prune the canopy or pay the price. Some members have told me they use a bonsai hook to separate thick roots from fine roots, trimming only the thicker roots.
Martin- if you see this, would love to know what you meant by wedge the sides. You mean pinch them?
Good luck with it!
Rafael
__________________ Zone 7b, Queens, New York
Tam
Registered:1365478628 Posts: 1,084
Posted 1380675999
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#7
Very nice information. Make sure you need to sanitize your cutters before you cut the next tree, otherwise you spread diseases from one tree to the other tree. Thanks for sharing. Best, Tam
Dieseler
Registered:1215735852 Posts: 8,252
Posted 1380680865
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#8
Rafael hear is first wedge cut made with more that followed. Also now use a reciprocating saw with 9 inch wood pruning blade. Much easier on back than the old bow saw.
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Root_pruning_Negretta_1.jpg.jpg (119.40 KB, 54 views)
Root_Pruning_Saw.jpg.jpg (166.82 KB, 52 views)
james
Registered:1189185103 Posts: 1,653
Posted 1380683895
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#9
Pete, I suggested using a pipe as a way to alleviate congestion in the rootball when traditional root pruning was not appropriate. I do not think I would use it over other root pruning methods. I find bare rooting a tree is only tedious if the tree is severely root bound. In those situations just cutting a portion of the growing mix away limits how much space the tree has to grow in. If root work is done at regular intervals, removing the growing mix goes pretty quickly.
Also, I have removed up to 80%+ (normal root pruning for me is better than 60%) of the root mass without pruning any additional from the top than I would had I not performed root work. If the tree does not need top pruning, I don't make any cuts at all. It may be my climate, but I have not seen any top die back.
__________________ In containers - Littleton, CO (zone 5b) In ground - N.E of Austin, TX (zone 8b) 2016 Wish List: Dārk Pōrtuguese, Grānthāms Royāl, Lātarolla, Negrettā, Nōire de Bārbentāne, Rockāway Green, Viōlet Sepōr , Viōlette Dā uphine . Iranian figs are always welcome.
Ruuting
Registered:1359310699 Posts: 613
Posted 1380686271
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#10
Martin, do you do any work to the bottom of the rootball?
Do the thicker, longer roots get flush cut?
__________________ Rui
Southeast CT, zone 6B
theman7676
Registered:1305721469 Posts: 361
Posted 1380713877
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#11
i would love to know if this is something i can do now before dormancy and allow 1 month or so for head start recovery or should wait till winter and freeze myself in the garage doing this later on next spring?
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rcantor
Registered:1309799312 Posts: 5,727
Posted 1380731019
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#12
Wait till winter. :) Less stress on the plant.
__________________ Zone 6, MO Wish list: Galicia Negra, De La Reina - Pons, Genovese Nero - Rafed's, Sbayi, Souadi, Acciano, Any Rimada, Sodus Sicilian, any Bass, Pons or Axier fig, any great tasting fig.
armando93223
Registered:1318984112 Posts: 1,164
Posted 1380731506
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#13
On Re-potting should the soil on the bottom have a lot of perlite, wood chips to help drainage, I am asking because I bought trees from nurserys that had a light mixture and the water drained out immediately......So I have heavy amount of soil on bottom to retain water...???? Thank You, fellow members.
__________________ Armando in the Heart of California
susieqz
Registered:1372082549 Posts: 971
Posted 1380731919
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#14
armando,my personal opiion is that lite, fast draining is better. your figs won't split from excess rain if you keep it fast draining. i use 5-1-1 and my figs are happy.
__________________ susie wish list: nothing. i can't grow cuttings . right now, i have 6 trees showing no signs of fmv. i'd like to keep it that way' i was told that if i couldn't deal with fmv, i should grow peaches, so i got a peach tree to live with my clean figs.
Dieseler
Registered:1215735852 Posts: 8,252
Posted 1380736078
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#15
Ruuting yes bottom of rootball gets cut off at least several inches some larger plants more is severed. Top of rootball also the same up to the trunk and completely around it. As for when its done i do in March or 1st week of April right before they wake up.
rafaelissimmo
Registered:1335639347 Posts: 1,473
Posted 1380737904
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#16
Thank you Martin.
__________________ Zone 7b, Queens, New York