From Twigs to Figs in 120 Days: Rich's Propagation Method

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nycfig

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Posted 1414503056	Reply with quote #51

Hi Rich. I was admiring the results you've achieved with your propagation method. Very nice work! Have you modified this method at all since you discovered it? Any current pics of your method or results? __________________ Danny NYC Z7a It's all about the figs! Facebook: NYCfigs Buying Fig Trees and Cuttings From the Internet

Aaron4USA

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Posts: 2,969

Posted 1414510005	Reply with quote #52

I like it. Clean, fast and very productive. Good work,'thanks for sharing.

RichinNJ

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Posts: 1,687

Posted 1414510199 · Edited	Reply with quote #53

Quote: Originally Posted by nycfig Hi Rich. I was admiring the results you've achieved with your propagation method. Very nice work! Have you modified this method at all since you discovered it? Any current pics of your method or results? I cant say that I'm making any changes this year at this time. The only thing that I'm considering is transplanting them into Rich's Super Mega Mix for the last 30 days of indoor growing before I take them outside.

nycfig

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Posts: 884

Posted 1414512028	Reply with quote #54

Thanks, Rich. Have you used the propagation method again since last posting about it? Same results? __________________ Danny NYC Z7a It's all about the figs! Facebook: NYCfigs Buying Fig Trees and Cuttings From the Internet

RichinNJ

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Posts: 1,687

Posted 1414515208	Reply with quote #55

Quote: Originally Posted by nycfig Thanks, Rich. Have you used the propagation method again since last posting about it? Same results? I have 2 containers full of cuttings I just started.

cis4elk

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Posts: 1,718

Posted 1414518961	Reply with quote #56

Rich, what kind of banana plant is that? Have you ever harvested bananas from a plant you grew? __________________ Calvin Littleton,CO z5/6 Wants List: For everyone to clean-up after themselves and co-exist peacefully. Let's think more about the future of our planet and less about ourselves. :)

cis4elk

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Posts: 1,718

Posted 1414519083	Reply with quote #57

Do you use rooting hormone? __________________ Calvin Littleton,CO z5/6 Wants List: For everyone to clean-up after themselves and co-exist peacefully. Let's think more about the future of our planet and less about ourselves. :)

tylerj

Registered:1347291507
Posts: 646

Posted 1414520957	Reply with quote #58

I use 100% perlite too Rich. I find its great for preventing over watering of the cutting. So you have obviously no issues with the roots being exposed to light?? they do fine obviously?? I have been wrapping my cups with tin foil as soon as I see roots hit the cup wall but if its not needed I might skip that. Tyler __________________ London, Ontario zone 6a Wish List: Martinenca Rimada, Genovese Nero AF, Galicia Negra, Brooklyn White

RichinNJ

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Posts: 1,687

Posted 1414532205	Reply with quote #59

Quote: Originally Posted by cis4elk Rich, what kind of banana plant is that? Have you ever harvested bananas from a plant you grew? Brazilian, I've never tried to get fruit however I'm thinking next summer I will plant a couple outside and see what happens

RichinNJ

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Posts: 1,687

Posted 1414532242	Reply with quote #60

Quote: Originally Posted by cis4elk Do you use rooting hormone? No I do not use rooting hormone

RichinNJ

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Posts: 1,687

Posted 1414532369	Reply with quote #61

Quote: Originally Posted by tylerj I use 100% perlite too Rich. I find its great for preventing over watering of the cutting. So you have obviously no issues with the roots being exposed to light?? they do fine obviously?? I have been wrapping my cups with tin foil as soon as I see roots hit the cup wall but if its not needed I might skip that. Tyler I monitor root grow daily and I have not seen any issues that I'm aware of caused by them being exposed to light.

tylerj

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Posts: 646

Posted 1414534879 · Edited	Reply with quote #62

Quote: Originally Posted by RichinNJ Quote: Originally Posted by tylerj I use 100% perlite too Rich. I find its great for preventing over watering of the cutting. So you have obviously no issues with the roots being exposed to light?? they do fine obviously?? I have been wrapping my cups with tin foil as soon as I see roots hit the cup wall but if its not needed I might skip that. Tyler I monitor root grow daily and I have not seen any issues that I'm aware of caused by them being exposed to light. Good off with the foil... it just causes the cups to tip over easier anyways lol... Here are some cuttings I started Oct. 10th... 18 days ago (I did use liquid hormone on them though) Tyler __________________ London, Ontario zone 6a Wish List: Martinenca Rimada, Genovese Nero AF, Galicia Negra, Brooklyn White

RichinNJ

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Posts: 1,687

Posted 1414535897	Reply with quote #63

Looking good. Follow my posted directions the best you can is my only suggestion at this point.

dirtguy50

Registered:1398135169
Posts: 256

Posted 1414589766 · Edited	Reply with quote #64

Rich, thanks for the detailed instructions. I am very very new to figs and will attempt starts in the spring. Approximately how long does each phase take in your process? I don't know how long to expect to see certain amounts of growth. I realize plants will grow at different rates, but would appreciate some general timeline guides. Thanks so much. Keith __________________ No, your other left! Zone 6b, Keith in SW Wish List: Violette de Bordeaux & Marsilles Black VS

RichinNJ

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Posts: 1,687

Posted 1414591374	Reply with quote #65

Quote: Originally Posted by dirtguy50 Rich, thanks for the detailed instructions. I am very very new to figs and will attempt starts in the spring. Approximately how long does each phase take in your process? I don't know how long to expect to see certain amounts of growth. I realize plants will grow at different rates, but would appreciate some general timeline guides. Thanks so much. Keith I cant really say because my cuttings last year were from different varieties, different cuts from the same variety, cut at different times and they all grew at different rates at different stages.

luigiwu

Registered:1410096733
Posts: 87

Posted 1414882459 · Edited	Reply with quote #66

Newbie here and so happy to find this post! I have a couple of what are probably really dumb questions: 1. "clear deli container" = that's just the clear cup that all your cuttings are grown in correct? 2. Are all the fig plants grown under 4 sets of T8s until its time to go outdoors? I grow seedlings in doors, starting in March for putting out in Early May. For the seedlings I need to keep the light approx 2-inch above the leaves. Does the same apply here? 3. When they are ready to be potted up in the black pots, you just plant the whole thing - the perlite + root ball? __________________ New to figs! Container gardening in NY, Zone 7 Wishlist: Ronde de Bordeaux \| Violet de Bordeaux \| Negronne \| Valle Negra

veggie_girl

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Posts: 29

Posted 1415061464	Reply with quote #67

Very nice, I'm going to try this.

nycfig

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Posts: 884

Posted 1415115730	Reply with quote #68

Quote: Originally Posted by RichinNJ I use Cana Aqua 2 part mixed 5ml/gal I purchase from Hydro Girl at the Grow Room in Nyack NY. I alternate 2 times plain water to 1 time hydro solution. Rich - Which 2-part Canna product do you use, Aqua Vega or Aqua Flores? __________________ Danny NYC Z7a It's all about the figs! Facebook: NYCfigs Buying Fig Trees and Cuttings From the Internet

fluffybunny

Registered:1358733963
Posts: 28

Posted 1415449904	Reply with quote #69

Hey Rich, Have you had any mold issues with this method? I am seeing a couple little puffballs on my cuttings this morning in the container. Thanks, Mike __________________ Mike - zone 5b West Lincoln, Ontario, Canada

jenn42

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Posts: 256

Posted 1415467875	Reply with quote #70

I'm having the same issue with the white puffballs but I don't want to wash it off in case there are roots I can't see..... __________________ Jenn Austin, TX Zone 8b Wish List: CDD, Bryant-Dark Unknown, Red Lebanese, ORoarke, Calvert Will hopefully have cuttings to trade next year as my yearlings mature

RichinNJ

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Posts: 1,687

Posted 1415498051	Reply with quote #71

Sorry everyone We were on vacation and just got back. No internet in the beach house we rented due to a tropical storm a few weeks ago.

RichinNJ

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Posts: 1,687

Posted 1415498257 · Edited	Reply with quote #72

Quote: Originally Posted by luigiwu Newbie here and so happy to find this post! I have a couple of what are probably really dumb questions: 1. "clear deli container" = that's just the clear cup that all your cuttings are grown in correct? 2. Are all the fig plants grown under 4 sets of T8s until its time to go outdoors? I grow seedlings in doors, starting in March for putting out in Early May. For the seedlings I need to keep the light approx 2-inch above the leaves. Does the same apply here? 3. When they are ready to be potted up in the black pots, you just plant the whole thing - the perlite + root ball? 1) Yes the flimsy nearly transparent 1 quart deli container you get soup in at a Chinese restaurant or deli salad here in NJ 2) yes and yes 3) yes whole thing I don't disturb the roots

RichinNJ

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Posts: 1,687

Posted 1415498291	Reply with quote #73

Quote: Originally Posted by nycfig Quote: Originally Posted by RichinNJ I use Cana Aqua 2 part mixed 5ml/gal I purchase from Hydro Girl at the Grow Room in Nyack NY. I alternate 2 times plain water to 1 time hydro solution. Rich - Which 2-part Canna product do you use, Aqua Vega or Aqua Flores? Aqua Vega

RichinNJ

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Posts: 1,687

Posted 1415498657	Reply with quote #74

Quote: Originally Posted by fluffybunny Hey Rich, Have you had any mold issues with this method? I am seeing a couple little puffballs on my cuttings this morning in the container. Thanks, Mike It happens sometimes. I would just let it go and see what happens. Before I perfected my method and was still experimenting I had some cuttings given to me that were not stored or shipped well and they got all fuzzy I have found this is less likely to happen with fresh new cuttings.

gforceunited

Registered:1415756892
Posts: 9

Posted 1416053425	Reply with quote #75

Rich, Another noob here…Sorry to bug you, going to start my first cuttings soon utilizing your method. One point for clarification…if I read your steps correctly the cuttings only receive light from the T8 Fluorescent light. Is that correct? At what point do they get any natural light? Thanks, Mike Southwest, PA Zone 6a __________________ Thanks, Mike Southwest, PA - Zone 6a Wish List: Sodus Sicilian, Salem Dark, Malta Black, MBVS

RichinNJ

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Posts: 1,687

Posted 1416058151	Reply with quote #76

Quote: Originally Posted by gforceunited Rich, Another noob here…Sorry to bug you, going to start my first cuttings soon utilizing your method. One point for clarification…if I read your steps correctly the cuttings only receive light from the T8 Fluorescent light. Is that correct? At what point do they get any natural light? Thanks, Mike Southwest, PA Zone 6a I take them out in the spring and repot them after the danger of frost is over. Then they have to be progressively brought into the sun over a period of 2 weeks or more. Mine grew roots rapidly but didn't grow new leaves for many weeks then they just took off.

brettjm

Registered:1398901785
Posts: 215

Posted 1416058609	Reply with quote #77

Thanks for keeping this topic alive for so long. I just started some cuttings using a pair of methods. We've got a humidity chamber with 4 cuttings done in this manner, and also inside the chamber are some plastic baggies full of damp sphagnum and the majority of the rest of my cuttings. They're only in the chamber because I only have 1 heat mat. We'll see how it does....I feel like I'm playing a dangerous game between humidity, heat, and mold. Also, my setup is about 400x more ghetto-rigged than yours, but there are fluorescent lights on a timer, a heat mat, and a big old plastic tub...the essentials it would seem. We'll see how it goes. I just really don't wanna lose some of the cuttings I just got, and I've never rooted cuttings before :-/ __________________ In GA, Zone 7b/8a Wish list: more space to put in figs.

E30

Registered:1392012854
Posts: 43

Posted 1416273000	Reply with quote #78

Rich, This has been a great post, thanks for putting the time and effort on all the questions. One question that came up for me as I'm doing my homework on starting cuttings indoors In the world of hydroponics there is a huge amount of discussion on color temperatures, types of bulbs and etc. I haven't yet found anything on the needs of figs. Are you using a standard T8 bulbs or a special grow bulbs? tk __________________ Wish list: Maltese, Black Malta Have: My grandpa's Abyad from Lebanon, Barada, Mission, Souadi, Makedonia, Bourjasotte Grise, Rhonde de Bordeux, St. Rita, Panache Tiger, Black Madeira, Baskinta Brown and Purple, Sals EL. Raspberry Latte, All babies :( Italian 258, Galacia Negra (Bass's)

RichinNJ

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Posts: 1,687

Posted 1416277292	Reply with quote #79

Quote: Originally Posted by E30 Rich, This has been a great post, thanks for putting the time and effort on all the questions. One question that came up for me as I'm doing my homework on starting cuttings indoors In the world of hydroponics there is a huge amount of discussion on color temperatures, types of bulbs and etc. I haven't yet found anything on the needs of figs. Are you using a standard T8 bulbs or a special grow bulbs? tk Phillips 6500k Daylight bulbs from Home Depot

E30

Registered:1392012854
Posts: 43

Posted 1416352971	Reply with quote #80

Thanks __________________ Wish list: Maltese, Black Malta Have: My grandpa's Abyad from Lebanon, Barada, Mission, Souadi, Makedonia, Bourjasotte Grise, Rhonde de Bordeux, St. Rita, Panache Tiger, Black Madeira, Baskinta Brown and Purple, Sals EL. Raspberry Latte, All babies :( Italian 258, Galacia Negra (Bass's)

RichinNJ

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Posts: 1,687

Posted 1416671801 · Edited	Reply with quote #81

Plants propagated in the winter/ spring growing this summer Plants just about to loose their leaves this fall. Pictured with your's truly.

RichinNJ

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Posts: 1,687

Posted 1416672006 · Edited	Reply with quote #82

This years plants and a couple Bill's SIPS we have all put away for a nice winters rest.

tylerj

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Posts: 646

Posted 1416672321	Reply with quote #83

Amazing growth for 1 year old plants there Rich. Great job! Tyler __________________ London, Ontario zone 6a Wish List: Martinenca Rimada, Genovese Nero AF, Galicia Negra, Brooklyn White

RichinNJ

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Posts: 1,687

Posted 1416673109	Reply with quote #84

Quote: Originally Posted by tylerj Amazing growth for 1 year old plants there Rich. Great job! Tyler Thanks

jenn42

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Posts: 256

Posted 1416685946	Reply with quote #85

Wow! Thats a darn good job! I had been trying your method & was able to get 3 out of 15 to root. Most molded but the 3 that rooted have really good roots. One cup is almost totally filled with roots in about a months time. I took out the remaining cuttings, trashed some because they were too rotted and washed the mold off the rest. I put those into a homemade cloner. I figured since they were already moldy it's worth one last try to save them. I have total faith in your process, I just think I'm doing something wrong. I somehow have too much moisture in there, hence the mold. I think I will try again later in winter. __________________ Jenn Austin, TX Zone 8b Wish List: CDD, Bryant-Dark Unknown, Red Lebanese, ORoarke, Calvert Will hopefully have cuttings to trade next year as my yearlings mature

tylerj

Registered:1347291507
Posts: 646

Posted 1416693101	Reply with quote #86

Hi Jenn, I've found that if the perlite has too much dust or too small of perlite particle it will retain too much moisture if watered frequently. What I have available in my area tends to be that type of perlite. If you can find a good course perlite you won't have as much issue with rotting because it won't hold that much moisture. What I have to do with the finer grade perlite I have is after I water the cup initially and let the excess drain out I only water again once I can see that its actually drying out (usually the top half of the cup only after about a week or so in the bin). You get a good idea just by the weight of the cup what moisture level it has and you can see the condensation level on the side of the cup. Tyler __________________ London, Ontario zone 6a Wish List: Martinenca Rimada, Genovese Nero AF, Galicia Negra, Brooklyn White

jenn42

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Posts: 256

Posted 1416697148	Reply with quote #87

Thanks Tyler, I will keep that in mind when I get more cuttings & try this method again. __________________ Jenn Austin, TX Zone 8b Wish List: CDD, Bryant-Dark Unknown, Red Lebanese, ORoarke, Calvert Will hopefully have cuttings to trade next year as my yearlings mature

zone5figger

Registered:1395082963
Posts: 250

Posted 1416737451 · Edited	Reply with quote #88

Nice 1 year plants, Rich! And a helpful tutorial that could allow more folks to have fig jungles like yours...thanks for documenting. Did you allow any fruit to develop on your 1 yr olds? __________________ Jesse- zone 5, 1000' elevation

RichinNJ

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Posts: 1,687

Posted 1416746826 · Edited	Reply with quote #89

Quote: Originally Posted by zone5figger Nice 1 year plants, Rich! And a helpful tutorial that could allow more folks to have fig jungles like yours...thanks for documenting. Did you allow any fruit to develop on your 1 yr olds? Thanks , Yes we had some ripe fruit from the Red Greek. The Frank's Salerno and Viollette de Sollies had good sized fruit but didn't ripen. Some other varitites had very small fruit at the end of the season. Next year I think we will have many varitites to try.

brettjm

Registered:1398901785
Posts: 215

Posted 1416765412	Reply with quote #90

Rich, I looked through this thread but I never found this question: At what point do you start seeing roots from your cuttings in the cups? It's easy enough for me to check my cuttings in sphagnum (disappointingly, might I add), but I don't mess with the perlite cuttings. Of the cuttings I'm trying to root, I've got the ones I'm most excited for in perlite trying to imitate your setup as closely as possible. __________________ In GA, Zone 7b/8a Wish list: more space to put in figs.

RichinNJ

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Posts: 1,687

Posted 1416777722 · Edited	Reply with quote #91

Quote: Originally Posted by brettjm Rich, I looked through this thread but I never found this question: At what point do you start seeing roots from your cuttings in the cups? It's easy enough for me to check my cuttings in sphagnum (disappointingly, might I add), but I don't mess with the perlite cuttings. Of the cuttings I'm trying to root, I've got the ones I'm most excited for in perlite trying to imitate your setup as closely as possible. See post #65. Some take 2 weeks some have taken 6 weeks to show roots. It depends on the variety, when it was taken from the plant, how it was stored.... Many variables. You will see the roots in the bottom or sides or sometimes they come straight up out of the perlite. Take your time. Don't worry and don't play with them. Follow the directions in the post the best you can. I really only pick up the cups once or twice in a week to check for roots.

fignatic

Registered:1415840587
Posts: 54

Posted 1417051377	Reply with quote #92

Rich: I just wanted to tell you that my very first "twigs to figs" was started today as an experiment on my rooting ability while using your method. The cuttings that I am using are from my families unk dark fig and another unk Italian white fig that someone in Orange,N.J. gave to me last week. Half of them were treated with rooting hormone and half without just to see if there is a big difference. Thanks for a great tutorial of your method and Ill be sure to post the results. __________________ joe paradiso 6B New Jersey

RichinNJ

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Posts: 1,687

Posted 1417051758	Reply with quote #93

Quote: Originally Posted by fignatic Rich: I just wanted to tell you that my very first "twigs to figs" was started today as an experiment on my rooting ability while using your method. The cuttings that I am using are from my families unk dark fig and another unk Italian white fig that someone in Orange,N.J. gave to me last week. Half of them were treated with rooting hormone and half without just to see if there is a big difference. Thanks for a great tutorial of your method and Ill be sure to post the results. You're welcome.

dirtguy50

Registered:1398135169
Posts: 256

Posted 1417894838	Reply with quote #94

Rich, I am trying your propagation method on a smaller scale. I rigged up a chamber that will hold 6 quart deli containers, sitting on a heat mat. Temps inside are hovering about 82 degrees and leaving the 24" shop light on for 16 hours a day. Hope to learn enough over the winter to have some viable plants survive come spring. Thanks for the instructions. __________________ No, your other left! Zone 6b, Keith in SW Wish List: Violette de Bordeaux & Marsilles Black VS

bigfig

Registered:1417908022
Posts: 87

Posted 1417948000	Reply with quote #95

wow will give it a try ,im new to growin figs this will be my first year going to get some cuttings from e-bay __________________ Wish list :vasilika sika,,JH Adriaticand common french Joe New Jersey 6a

brettjm

Registered:1398901785
Posts: 215

Posted 1418911627 · Edited	Reply with quote #96

Really struggling with this method right now. Basically, most of my figs rooted, many rooted well. When I see roots on the sides of the cups (good roots) I take the cuttings out, and continue the process outside of the humidity chamber. Except, the entire setup is too dang wet in my opinion. Here's a few notes: 1) Roots reaching the side of the cup where there is condensation is an instant death sentence...many roots turn brown within a few days, and continue to deteriorate until they are thoroughly rotted. 2) I've noticed a pattern with several rooted cuttings now...I take them out of the humidity chamber, I water them with really dilute fertilizer (no urea in it) or water (after I was worried about fert burn), and within 24-48 hours their roots turn brown and shiny, the leaves drop. I unearthed a couple that this happened to and the beautiful root system that it had developed was completely rotted out. 3) The cuttings that I don't water at all seem to do the best. 4) Within the humidity chamber, I've had many cuttings that, after several weeks in perlite, I dumped out to have a look at. Most of them had sent out tiny root nubbins that had turned brown and rotted at between 1/4" and 1/2". I don't give them much water (once every 8-10 days I give them a TINY bit). About 1/2 of these I actually started in sphagnum, then potted up to perlite when I saw roots. Seems the saturated perlite was an instant death sentence to the roots. Am I missing something? Even the ones that have good root systems die the second I give them any liquid (step 7 in the process). I'll be lucky to get 20% of my cuttings to survive at the rate I'm going. I'm going to try to stick this process out, but I've killed 3 cuttings that had been doing great when I pulled them from the humidity chamber and watered them, with a 4th and 5th going down the crapper currently. __________________ In GA, Zone 7b/8a Wish list: more space to put in figs.

tylerj

Registered:1347291507
Posts: 646

Posted 1418917086	Reply with quote #97

Brett, I have noticed that since sifting the perlite to remove the small particles the cups do not retain much moisture at all compared to before. The cups weigh half as much as the others. I noticed that if you put a cutting in the cup and fill with unsifted perlite from the bag and water it that all the fine particles/dust will settle on the bottom half of the cup which can result in the bottom of the cutting rotting. So I would either sift the perlite... or rinse it separately before putting in the cups. Rich must have a higher grade perlite than what I have available here :( Tyler __________________ London, Ontario zone 6a Wish List: Martinenca Rimada, Genovese Nero AF, Galicia Negra, Brooklyn White

brettjm

Registered:1398901785
Posts: 215

Posted 1418917448	Reply with quote #98

I did my best to presift using a colander. Worked well to get rid of the dust and smallest particles. Strangely, the ones with finer perlite are actually doing better. Less condensation on the sides and less root death. __________________ In GA, Zone 7b/8a Wish list: more space to put in figs.

RichinNJ

Registered:1374784282
Posts: 1,687

Posted 1418918132	Reply with quote #99

Quote: Originally Posted by brettjm Really struggling with this method right now. Basically, most of my figs rooted, many rooted well. When I see roots on the sides of the cups (good roots) I take the cuttings out, and continue the process outside of the humidity chamber. Except, the entire setup is too dang wet in my opinion. Here's a few notes: 1) Roots reaching the side of the cup where there is condensation is an instant death sentence...many roots turn brown within a few days, and continue to deteriorate until they are thoroughly rotted. 2) I've noticed a pattern with several rooted cuttings now...I take them out of the humidity chamber, I water them with really dilute fertilizer (no urea in it) or water (after I was worried about fert burn), and within 24-48 hours their roots turn brown and shiny, the leaves drop. I unearthed a couple that this happened to and the beautiful root system that it had developed was completely rotted out. 3) The cuttings that I don't water at all seem to do the best. 4) Within the humidity chamber, I've had many cuttings that, after several weeks in perlite, I dumped out to have a look at. Most of them had sent out tiny root nubbins that had turned brown and rotted at between 1/4" and 1/2". I don't give them much water (once every 8-10 days I give them a TINY bit). About 1/2 of these I actually started in sphagnum, then potted up to perlite when I saw roots. Seems the saturated perlite was an instant death sentence to the roots. Am I missing something? Even the ones that have good root systems die the second I give them any liquid (step 7 in the process). I'll be lucky to get 20% of my cuttings to survive at the rate I'm going. I'm going to try to stick this process out, but I've killed 3 cuttings that had been doing great when I pulled them from the humidity chamber and watered them, with a 4th and 5th going down the crapper currently. Im not able to follow this too well here. I don't use moss to root. Like the directions say just put them in perlite and leave them alone until you see roots and leaves. Water infrequently. Do not use anything organic in the chamber. Water infrequently. Sometimes the roots do change color sometimes not as much Whatever fertilizer you are using sounds like its killing your plants too. I don't have this issue with Cana hydro solution. I have read about people killing their whole group of rooted cuttings here on the forum by using MG or other "for dirt" fertilizers. Here is my current crop. Im flooding the plants that are out of the chamber 2x a day with Cana Vega

RichinNJ

Registered:1374784282
Posts: 1,687

Posted 1418918224	Reply with quote #100

Quote: Originally Posted by tylerj Brett, I have noticed that since sifting the perlite to remove the small particles the cups do not retain much moisture at all compared to before. The cups weigh half as much as the others. I noticed that if you put a cutting in the cup and fill with unsifted perlite from the bag and water it that all the fine particles/dust will settle on the bottom half of the cup which can result in the bottom of the cutting rotting. So I would either sift the perlite... or rinse it separately before putting in the cups. Rich must have a higher grade perlite than what I have available here :( Tyler Perlite is from Home Depot. I scoop it out of the bag, put it in a bucket, add water, mix, and put it in the cups. Thats it nothing else.

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