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Encanto Farms Nursery > Topics > Is it too late to plant in ground? GA 7b-8a
 
 


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SoniSoni

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Posted Reply with quote  #1 
Hello,  
I live in GA 7b-8a? .  Is it too late into summer to plant 3-5 gal figs  into ground?  I read they need well established roots before freeze.  IDK if that requires Spring to Fall or is Summer to Fall enough time to grow roots.

Thank you
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Soni   GA. 7-8.  
 seeking Galicia Negra, Bianchi Guido, Violette de Sollies, Emerald Strawberry
jdsfrance

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Posted Reply with quote  #2 
Hi Sonisoni,
If the figtree is in a pot, you can plant it when you want.
If the tree is in ground, and you would like to move it around, wait until Fall ...
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newnandawg

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Posted Reply with quote  #3 
Soni, since I live about 20 miles as the crow flies from you, put them in the ground. Plenty of water when we aren't getting much rain, like now.
Grasa

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Posted Reply with quote  #4 
I challenge the rule that is not ok to transplant.  chose a time of the day that is not so hot.. evening is best
  dig the hole, work the soil at least 2x deeper and wider than the pot itself, so that the roots don't find hard soil to grow into.

Add some  straw, wood chips, bark, leaves, compost, even branches of trees, to add air- helps with the transition from pot to ground- right at the bottom of the hole, add more soil, more...make layers of soft materials and dirt. wet it, let is settle, you may have to add more layers.


wet the potted plant, best to soak it inside of another so that its soil is very wet and roots are hydrated fully. gently slide it out of the pot and into the hole.  Having it wet,  makes the clump come out as one large brick with little disturbance to the roots.

the dirt you remove from the hole - give it some water ahead of time, so it is moist all around  but not over watered.  put this moist dirt to fill the hole. do not step or try to pack the soil around it, but put it down. if you have more wood chips, cover the entire area with at least 2 inches of chips. to make 'shade' on the area and keep moist in'. you may not water it for a day or two, as there is enough water in the clump for a few days.   

That is my method, and it works for me. Even with raspberries that everyone tells me not to plant in the summer. they are doing just fine and  keep on growing.  

if you don't have bark, find some crimson clover seeds and plant them on the entire area. they grow fast, creating a shade in the area.. and drawing Nitrogen from the air and put it on the ground.  Best luck ...  

it is best to do all the preparation, weting the soil, hole, and be ready, soon it cools down, you do the rest. 
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Grasa
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james

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Posted Reply with quote  #5 
There are two issues I have found to contend with when planting a tree directly from a container to the ground.  Both center on the difference between the growing mix (usually light) and the native soil (usually dense), and both are more problematic if you have intense summer heat in the summer.
  1. The water you put into the container growing mix will be pulled into the dense soil.  Consequently, the root ball you plant will dry out very quickly.  You will need to keep up with watering duties especially in the heat of summer.
  2. The roots seek the path of least resistance.  They will want to keep growing in the lighter container soil rather than push into the denser native soil.  If you are applying sufficient water to the planted root ball, there is less incentive for the roots to forge a path into the native soil. 
Prepping the hole as Grasa suggested is good.  If, however, your soil is clay, it doesn't take long enough for the clay to compact.  Amending the soil, at best, only temporarily alleviate the problems.   Top mulching (either with or without a weed blocking fabric) has it's own set of problems.  Waiting until the high temps stay below the mid 80s most of the time is a good idea.  Partially bare root the tree to expose the perimeter roots and plant so the exposed roots get buried in the native soil as you back fill.  Water the original root ball when almost dry.  Otherwise, concentrate water on the native soil around the tree.

If your native soil is pretty light and you don't expect summer temps to go above 90F too much, go for it.
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In containers - Littleton, CO (zone 5b)
In ground - N.E of Austin, TX (zone 8b) 

2016 Wish List:  Dārk Pōrtuguese, Grānthāms Royāl, Lātarolla, Negrettā, Nōire de Bārbentāne, Rockāway Green, Viōlet Sepōr, Viōlette Dāuphine.  Iranian figs are always welcome.
DesertDance

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Posted Reply with quote  #6 
My humble opinion from years of experience.  Wait!  Do NOT do one thing until the fig goes dormant.  When that happens, plant it in ground.  Make sure it has Miracle Grow or whatever you use, and some mulch.  It will sit for a while, getting used to it's surroundings...  That takes time.  But, you will see it waken.  Perk up!  And kinda grow a little.  Next year, it will try to walk.  It's a toddler, you know...  It will do it's best.  3rd year, it's got it's education.  It knows it's boundaries.  3rd year, it's going to rock!  It will amaze you.

Suzi
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Zone 9b, Southern California. "First year they sleep, Second year they creep, Third year they leap!"  Wish List:  I wish all of you happy fig collecting!  My wishes have been fulfilled!
Chivas

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Posted Reply with quote  #7 
In my zone, right now is no problem, I will be planting a couple in a couple weeks with no issue.  If you are going to wait fall is generally the best time to plant trees followed by spring.  Since people in zones more similar to yours, i would go by their advice as my zone is a bit more gentle than yours.
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GeneDaniels

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Posted Reply with quote  #8 
depending on  your soil type, there is one thing that greatly aids establishment of new trees, that is scoring the inside of the hole. Esp. if your soil is clay, make sure you gouge lots of areas around the inside of the hole. Otherwise the new roots will act like the walls of the hole are the sides of a container and circle around. You can end up root bound even in the ground. This is not as critical in the fall when the roots are growing slower, but if  you plant now it is important. Don't leave smooth sides to the planting hole.
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Zone 7b (Central Arkansas) Seven trees in the ground: Hardy Chicago, Celeste(?), LSU gold, Italian Black, Southern Brown Turkey(?), Strawberry Verte, and Unk yellow.  Trees in pots: VdB, CdD, and Sicilian?
WillsC

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Posted Reply with quote  #9 
I plant all summer long here in Central Florida, no problems at all.  IF a plant wilts put a cage around it with a double wrap of window screen to give it a break from the sun.  
drphil69

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Posted Reply with quote  #10 
Really good advice from a lot of members here!  This thread is a keeper.

I do not believe the tree needs to be established in the ground before a freeze, but you will still need to protect it as needed in your zone. 

Adding on to James' comment on clay soil, there is a problem with digging the hole deep.  It holds water, like a 5 gallon bucket with no holes.  Ponds are lined with clay to prevent them from losing their water.  In short, a deeply dug hole in clay no matter how well amended will drown your tree. 

I don't know about figs, but for most trees in clay it is recommended to put any clay back where it came from, around the roots in hole, then mound as necessary to the trees soil line.  This should really only be done when dormant.  Planting on a hill makes it easier.  Clay is a PITA, trust me.  I've drown many a tree.

If anyone has experience with clay soil and figs, I would appreciate any input!
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Phil - Zone 7A - Newark, DE Newbie fig lover just trying to learn.
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