GeneDaniels
Registered:1384021772 Posts: 1,014
Posted 1425164796
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#1
I am bored with the cold so I am trying to start a cutting in a simple SIP (made from 2 liter bottle). Just to make sure I understand. The goal is never to add water from the top- right? Only add water to the bottom so theoretically no gnats-right?
__________________ Zone 7b (Central Arkansas) Seven trees in the ground : Hardy Chicago, Celeste(?), LSU gold, Italian Black, Southern Brown Turkey(?), Strawberry Verte, and Unk yellow. Trees in pots: VdB, CdD, and Sicilian?
Sas
Registered:1350079929 Posts: 1,364
Posted 1425166016
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#2
See this explanation: http://www.selfwateringplantershq.com/how-does-it-work/ I mainly use SIP's (Sub Irrigated Planter )for rooting now. The success rate is phenomenal.
If you cover your cutting with a plastic cup, you effectively create your own green house that will trap the moisture.
Just keep your eye on the amount of water in the reservoir. That's all you have to do.
The biggest danger that you will encounter is when you re-pot as you could sent the plant into shock especially if you re-pot too soon or disturb the roots. For valuable cuttings, I like to use larger SIP's than a 2 liter bottle, so that I don't have to re-pot and disturb the roots for at least one season.
__________________ Sas from North Austin TX Zone 8B Wish list: Becane
GeneDaniels
Registered:1384021772 Posts: 1,014
Posted 1425168839
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#3
Thanks for the link
__________________ Zone 7b (Central Arkansas) Seven trees in the ground : Hardy Chicago, Celeste(?), LSU gold, Italian Black, Southern Brown Turkey(?), Strawberry Verte, and Unk yellow. Trees in pots: VdB, CdD, and Sicilian?
Rewton
Registered:1291943117 Posts: 1,946
Posted 1425168952
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#4
Gene, that is correct. You start with moist potting media but never add water to the top. It is probably best to not add any water (or very little) to the bottom either until you see roots. Then add enough to saturate the wick of the 2L bottle SIP.
__________________ Steve MD zone 7a