[img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7139/13666511055_38d68e0b73.jpg[/img]

[img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7139/13666511055_38d68e0b73.jpg[/img]

[img]https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3740/13666536883_5c21e9fdca.jpg[/img]

[img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7121/13665861053_4c1a09b22a.jpg[/img]

[img]https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2862/13666538973_792fb982e1.jpg[/img]

Calliope's Red Greek Fig unk.
[img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7425/13666529103_7bb4700dfa.jpg[/img]

[img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7400/13666501565_10a3963e9f.jpg[/img]

[img]https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3699/13666540603_23cf39ec2c.jpg[/img]

[img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7456/13666503385_09defc3e15.jpg[/img]

[img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7395/13666498055_de03b35aa5.jpg[/img]

Kearny NJ Black Fig unk. with young figs [img]https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3762/13666504405_5dab5dd345.jpg[/img]
[img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7365/13666849314_2da644ea48.jpg[/img]

[img]https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3730/13666727533_57316ab901.jpg[/img]


[img]https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3730/13666727533_57316ab901.jpg[/img]

Kearny NJ Green Fig unk. [img]https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3717/13666731393_f0a4c15a90.jpg[/img]


[img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7202/13666698995_78bd40a31c.jpg[/img]


[img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7434/13666697915_926caea0f0.jpg[/img]

"Recipe for success for propagating fig cuttings"

1) Put the cuttings into a quart clear deli containers with holes cut in the bottom . One per container. The bottom of the cutting should be 1-2" off the bottom of the container.

2) Fill with 100% perlite that's well saturated with water. Lightly pack down the perlite around the cutting and water with 2-3 baster fulls of water.I get my perlite from Home Depot

3) Put them into a closed clear humidity chamber (clear storage box from Ikea) 

4) Keep on a heat mat (Hydro Farm) with the thermostat (Hydro Farm) set at 80F (measured in the perlite, close to the middle and half way down to the bottom) The air temp will be equal to the perlite temp. There should always be a little water on the bottom of the chamber. The sides normally are wet with condensation.

Most times I get a lot of roots before I get buds by using bottom heat. Leave them in the chamber until you see a lot of roots and leaves

5) Keep under a 4 bulb T8 fluorescent fixture light turned on for 14 hours

6) As soon as they get leaves (1/2-3/4") and roots I can see on the bottom and/or sides put them on a tray on the heat mat.

7) After they have been transfered out of the chamber soak I them with 2 part hydroponics solution until it flows out of the bottom once a day . 2 squirts from a turkey baster in each container. I'm disposing of the flow-thru solution.

I use Cana Aqua 2 part mixed 5ml/gal I purchase from Hydro Girl at the Grow Room in Nyack NY. I alternate 2 times plain water to 1 time hydro solution.

8) When there are many roots and big leaves I move them off the heat mat to a table under lights again for 14 hrs/day. They get 1-2 cups of the same solution as above daily. 

9) When they are extensively rooted I cut the container down the sides and I transplant them to a #5 pot that I fill with 90% MG potting solid and 10% perlite.

If you can follow these directions you can have the same results as I have had.

Thanks Rich, I'll give that a try.

You have beautiful results.    it looks so easy,  i don't know where i keep going wrong.  thanks for sharing.

Rich Really nice tutorial Rich, thanks for taking the time to share your technique.

Wow, I am amazed! Thanks for sharing. They are lovely

Healthy looking plants. Great job.

Hard to argue with those results, Rich. Thank you for the well done step by step tutorial. It is very helpful.

Gary

Rich,
Thanks for sharing the pictures and your method.

Hi Rich,

Awesome!  So it was only 120 days from putting the dormant stick into the pearlite in the humidity bin to trees with over (looks like) a foot of new stem growth?  Man they look fantastic!

If they try to produce figs this year will you remove them, or is the tree strong enough? 

Thanks for sharing your technique!

Phil

Hey Rich so you use 2 heat mats, one for the chamber and one for the tray? Thanks for your info.

Excellent job! Thank you for sharing because you have definitely mastered this process!

[QUOTE=drphil69]Hi Rich,

Awesome!  So it was only 120 days from putting the dormant stick into the pearlite in the humidity bin to trees with over (looks like) a foot of new stem growth?  Man they look fantastic!

If they try to produce figs this year will you remove them, or is the tree strong enough? 

Thanks for sharing your technique!

Phil[/QUOTE] Yes. I will grow out all the figs I can.

[QUOTE=rafaelissimmo]Hey Rich so you use 2 heat mats, one for the chamber and one for the tray? Thanks for your info.[/QUOTE]

Same heat mat for the chamber and the tray next to it. Thermostat is in a cutting in the chamber

Thanks for sharing. The roots that you're getting out of your cuttings are so nice!

Thanks for the great contribution, Rich!  You're plants look terrific :)

That's very impressive, and the lack of soil completely eliminates fungus gnat infestation.  Good job! 

Suzi

Your plants look wonderful. I'm going to try this since I haven't been successful with sphagnum and damp paper towels.. Thanks for sharing this technique.

Rich, awesome job, please post more pics later in the season, Peace, chad

Thanks for sharing Rich. I am jealous, seriously. Norhayati

Hi RichinNJ,
You've got good results in Step one. Soon time for step two:  Time to get them outside .
Good luck !

[QUOTE=RichinNJ]"Recipe for success for propagating fig cuttings"

7) After they have been transfered out of the chamber soak I them with 2 part hydroponics solution until it flows out of the bottom once a day . 2 squirts from a turkey baster in each container. I'm disposing of the flow-thru solution.

I use Cana Aqua 2 part mixed 5ml/gal I purchase from Hydro Girl at the Grow Room in Nyack NY. I alternate 2 times plain water to 1 time hydro solution.

8) When there are many roots and big leaves I move them off the heat mat to a table under lights again for 14 hrs/day. They get 1-2 cups of the same solution as above daily. 

9) When they are extensively rooted I cut the container down the sides and I transplant them to a #5 pot that I fill with 90% MP potting solid and 10% perlite.
[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the info.  I have a few questions though.

in #7, you say you give the hydro juice once a day, but then say alternate 2 times plain water to 1 time hydro juice.  Does that mean your watering them 3 times a day?  twice plain water, once hydro juice?

Then the same during step 8?  How big is your turkey baster in mL?  Is a "squirt" the same as a full turkey baster?

Finally when up potting you leave all the perlite in the root ball and just surround with media?  or do you wash away some or all of the perlite before up potting.

oh almost forgot.  The closet where I do my rooting and initial growing stays a constant 80F.  Do you think I'll still need to use a heat mat?

Thanks,
James

[QUOTE=DallasFigs][QUOTE=RichinNJ]"Recipe for success for propagating fig cuttings"

7) After they have been transfered out of the chamber soak I them with 2 part hydroponics solution until it flows out of the bottom once a day . 2 squirts from a turkey baster in each container. I'm disposing of the flow-thru solution.

I use Cana Aqua 2 part mixed 5ml/gal I purchase from Hydro Girl at the Grow Room in Nyack NY. I alternate 2 times plain water to 1 time hydro solution.

8) When there are many roots and big leaves I move them off the heat mat to a table under lights again for 14 hrs/day. They get 1-2 cups of the same solution as above daily. 

9) When they are extensively rooted I cut the container down the sides and I transplant them to a #5 pot that I fill with 90% MP potting solid and 10% perlite.
[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the info.  I have a few questions though.

in #7, you say you give the hydro juice once a day, but then say alternate 2 times plain water to 1 time hydro juice.  Does that mean your watering them 3 times a day?  twice plain water, once hydro juice?

Then the same during step 8?  How big is your turkey baster in mL?  Is a "squirt" the same as a full turkey baster?

Finally when up potting you leave all the perlite in the root ball and just surround with media?  or do you wash away some or all of the perlite before up potting.

oh almost forgot.  The closet where I do my rooting and initial growing stays a constant 80F.  Do you think I'll still need to use a heat mat?

Thanks,
James


[/QUOTE] Water 1x per day All plants Turkey baster is 40ml per squirt Do not disturb root ball. Plant as seen in photo 1-2" below top of soil I would use a heat mat. Bottom heat drives root growth. Cooler tops promotes reduction in leafy growth. The basement where I grow my plants is 75 in the day and 65 at night 20% humidity. I grow my plants on 48x24 steel shelves I bought at Costco online. They are for the food industry . 4 shelf unit is $160.

Good work, mate.

okay.. I'm trying a couple your way and see what happens.  Thanks!

Very nice!  How tall is the humidity bin?

[QUOTE=nycfig]Very nice!  How tall is the humidity bin?[/QUOTE]

They are the 16" tall clear storage containers from IKEA .

Its really awesome Rich. !!!.

Can I share your PIC...?  and I'll try it ,Hopefully it would work as well as your tree in our tropical climate.

Salam
zaitun

Very nice tutorial..... Does it work in tropical climate with high humidity ?.... I do rooting quite a lot of cuttings, they do well in the humidity chamber.... But when I repotting them and put it outside of the humidity chamber... All starting to dry out..... From 40 cuttings that root, only few is survive..... Maybe I should use perlite like you do..... Thanks Rich....

Thanks for sharing Rich!

Rich, This is an Outstanding Post!! I've learned a lot just from this One Post! Thanks! :)

I am posting here several photos of cuttings with which I have had good results using this method, with a little tinkering on my part. Two of the cuttings were in real trouble and have been rescued from near death. I will show the cutting and the roots if possible. First is a BM cutting from Jon, after nearly losing it using another method, I place the cutting in Spaghnum Moss and it developed a couple of small root initials and a small leaf. Then, I put it in a small cup of perlite, into a humidity chamber with heat mat on the bottom, set to 80 F. As of today, leafing out nicely and even the terminal bud, which was nearly dried out, has broken bud. The roots are looking nice. I am hydrating with a custom blend of Cornucopia fertilizer, Cal-Mag for calcium, root start rooting enhancer, and a little peroxide.

This is a cutting of Paradiso Gene, it struggled in a cup of perlite for about a month under hydroponic lights in open air. There were 2 unhealthy looking leaves and no terminal bud visible. Not good. After a couple of days in the humidity chamber, a new bud appeared and after about a week we have 3 new leaves.

Finally, I had two Adriatic JH cuttings, they started to root in Spaghnum Moss. One went into straight perlite, the other into a mix of 2/3 perlite 1/3 peat moss. The peat moss cutting is showing particularly vigorous roots.

[QUOTE=rafaelissimmo]I am posting here several photos of cuttings with which I have had good results using this method, with a little tinkering on my part. Two of the cuttings were in real trouble and have been rescued from near death. I will show the cutting and the roots if possible. First is a BM cutting from Jon, after nearly losing it using another method, I place the cutting in Spaghnum Moss and it developed a couple of small root initials and a small leaf. Then, I put it in a small cup of perlite, into a humidity chamber with heat mat on the bottom, set to 80 F. As of today, leafing out nicely and even the terminal bud, which was nearly dried out, has broken bud. The roots are looking nice. I am hydrating with a custom blend of Cornucopia fertilizer, Cal-Mag for calcium, root start rooting enhancer, and a little peroxide.

[/QUOTE]

That's great Rafael. I'm happy that by sharing my experience with others good things have happened.

At this point using this method Rich, what would you say is your success rate? Judging by this tutorial this is a method I will employ in the future.

I'm 36/37 so far

I think I killed the one by fertilizing and then allowing it to dry out so it was due to me not paying attention

That's a fantastic success rate Rich! I will definitely use this method next year. Thanks for sharing your technique.

Rich, I was wondering how often you water the cuttings while they are in the humidity chamber and if you do, what do you use? I understand that you water with the 2 part solution once they are on the tray/heat mat alternating with water, but not quite sure in the chamber. BTW, I put a couple of struggling cuttings in perlite yesterday in a chamber, so I am curious. Thanks!

I water the cuttings in the humidity chamber infrequently with plain water. Maybe once a week or 10 days. One baser full will usually be enough. There should allways be a couple tablesppons of water on the bottom of the chamber

[QUOTE=RichinNJ]I water the cuttings in the humidity chamber infrequently with plain water. Maybe once a week or 10 days. One baser full will usually be enough. There should allways be a couple tablesppons of water on the bottom of the chamber[/QUOTE]

Thank you!

A few of the featured plants post summer growth ....more photos later
[url=https://flic.kr/p/pfKsw8][img]https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3871/15263115635_76f7ceff36_z.jpg[/img][/url]

Impressive work and excellent results.

Thanks.... Anyone of you folks out there can do this.

Thats impressive! Great work. I have a MBVS that has about that much growth over the summer, but its the only one. I think I had them too shaded. I left them all in indirect sun for half the summer. Once I put them in full sun, they all took off! I'm going to hopefully try your method in the spring. You really gave a great tutorial. Very detailed and informative.

Looking good, congrats Rich.

Thanks for this very informative post!

Hi Rich.  I was admiring the results you've achieved with your propagation method.  Very nice work!  Have you modified this method at all since you discovered it?  Any current pics of your method or results?

I like it.
Clean, fast and very productive.
Good work,'thanks for sharing.

[QUOTE=nycfig]Hi Rich.  I was admiring the results you've achieved with your propagation method.  Very nice work!  Have you modified this method at all since you discovered it?  Any current pics of your method or results?[/QUOTE]

I cant say that I'm making any changes this year at this time. The only thing that I'm considering is transplanting them into Rich's Super Mega Mix for the last 30 days of indoor growing before I take them outside.

Thanks, Rich.  Have you used the propagation method again since last posting about it?  Same results?

[QUOTE=nycfig]Thanks, Rich.  Have you used the propagation method again since last posting about it?  Same results?[/QUOTE]

I have 2 containers full of cuttings I just started.

Rich, what kind of banana plant is that? Have you ever harvested bananas from a plant you grew?

Do you use rooting hormone?

I use 100% perlite too Rich. I find its great for preventing over watering of the cutting. So you have obviously no issues with the roots being exposed to light?? they do fine obviously?? I have been wrapping my cups with tin foil as soon as I see roots hit the cup wall but if its not needed I might skip that.

Tyler

[QUOTE=cis4elk]Rich, what kind of banana plant is that? Have you ever harvested bananas from a plant you grew?[/QUOTE]

Brazilian, I've never tried to get fruit however I'm thinking next summer I will plant a couple outside and see what happens

[QUOTE=cis4elk]Do you use rooting hormone?[/QUOTE]
No I do not use rooting hormone

[QUOTE=tylerj]I use 100% perlite too Rich. I find its great for preventing over watering of the cutting. So you have obviously no issues with the roots being exposed to light?? they do fine obviously?? I have been wrapping my cups with tin foil as soon as I see roots hit the cup wall but if its not needed I might skip that.

Tyler[/QUOTE]

I monitor root grow daily and I have not seen any issues that I'm aware of caused by them being exposed to light.

[QUOTE=RichinNJ][QUOTE=tylerj]I use 100% perlite too Rich. I find its great for preventing over watering of the cutting. So you have obviously no issues with the roots being exposed to light?? they do fine obviously?? I have been wrapping my cups with tin foil as soon as I see roots hit the cup wall but if its not needed I might skip that.

Tyler[/QUOTE] I monitor root grow daily and I have not seen any issues that I'm aware of caused by them being exposed to light. [/QUOTE]

Good off with the foil... it just causes the cups to tip over easier anyways lol...

Here are some cuttings I started Oct. 10th... 18 days ago (I did use liquid hormone on them though)
Tyler

Looking good. Follow my posted directions the best you can is my only suggestion at this point.

Rich, thanks for the detailed instructions.  I am very very new to figs and will attempt starts in the spring.  Approximately how long does each phase take in your process?  I don't know how long to expect to see certain amounts of growth.  I realize plants will grow at different rates, but would appreciate some general timeline guides.  Thanks so much.
Keith

[QUOTE=dirtguy50]Rich, thanks for the detailed instructions.  I am very very new to figs and will attempt starts in the spring.  Approximately how long does each phase take in your process?  I don't know how long to expect to see certain amounts of growth.  I realize plants will grow at different rates, but would appreciate some general timeline guides.  Thanks so much.
Keith[/QUOTE]

I cant really say because my cuttings last year were from different varieties, different cuts from the same variety, cut at different times and they all grew at different rates at different stages.

Newbie here and so happy to find this post!  I have a couple of what are probably really dumb questions:

1. "clear deli container" = that's just the clear cup that all your cuttings are grown in correct?
2. Are all the fig plants grown under 4 sets of T8s until its time to go outdoors? I grow seedlings in doors, starting in March for putting out in Early May. For the seedlings I need to keep the light approx 2-inch above the leaves. Does the same apply here?
3. When they are ready to be potted up in the black pots, you just plant the whole thing - the perlite + root ball?

Very nice, I'm going to try this.

[QUOTE=RichinNJ]I use Cana Aqua 2 part mixed 5ml/gal I purchase from Hydro Girl at the Grow Room in Nyack NY. I alternate 2 times plain water to 1 time hydro solution.
[/QUOTE]

Rich - Which 2-part Canna product do you use, Aqua Vega or Aqua Flores?

Hey Rich,
Have you had any mold issues with this method? I am seeing a couple little puffballs on my cuttings this morning in the container.
Thanks,
Mike

I'm having the same issue with the white puffballs but I don't want to wash it off in case there are roots I can't see.....

Sorry everyone We were on vacation and just got back. No internet in the beach house we rented due to a tropical storm a few weeks ago.

[QUOTE=luigiwu]Newbie here and so happy to find this post!  I have a couple of what are probably really dumb questions:

1. "clear deli container" = that's just the clear cup that all your cuttings are grown in correct?
2. Are all the fig plants grown under 4 sets of T8s until its time to go outdoors? I grow seedlings in doors, starting in March for putting out in Early May. For the seedlings I need to keep the light approx 2-inch above the leaves. Does the same apply here?
3. When they are ready to be potted up in the black pots, you just plant the whole thing - the perlite + root ball?

[/QUOTE] 1) Yes the flimsy nearly transparent 1 quart deli container you get soup in at a Chinese restaurant or deli salad here in NJ 2) yes and yes 3) yes whole thing I don't disturb the roots

[QUOTE=nycfig][QUOTE=RichinNJ]I use Cana Aqua 2 part mixed 5ml/gal I purchase from Hydro Girl at the Grow Room in Nyack NY. I alternate 2 times plain water to 1 time hydro solution.
[/QUOTE]

Rich - Which 2-part Canna product do you use, Aqua Vega or Aqua Flores?[/QUOTE]

Aqua Vega

[QUOTE=fluffybunny]Hey Rich,
Have you had any mold issues with this method? I am seeing a couple little puffballs on my cuttings this morning in the container.
Thanks,
Mike[/QUOTE]

It happens sometimes. I would just let it go and see what happens. Before I perfected my method and was still experimenting I had some cuttings given to me that were not stored or shipped well and they got all fuzzy
I have found this is less likely to happen with fresh new cuttings.

Rich,

Another noob here…Sorry to bug you, going to start my first cuttings soon utilizing your method. One point for clarification…if I read your steps correctly the cuttings only receive light from the T8 Fluorescent light. Is that correct? At what point do they get any natural light? 

Thanks, 

Mike 
Southwest, PA
Zone 6a

[QUOTE=gforceunited]Rich,

Another noob here…Sorry to bug you, going to start my first cuttings soon utilizing your method. One point for clarification…if I read your steps correctly the cuttings only receive light from the T8 Fluorescent light. Is that correct? At what point do they get any natural light? 

Thanks, 

Mike 
Southwest, PA
Zone 6a[/QUOTE]

I take them out in the spring and repot them after the danger of frost is over. Then they have to be progressively brought into the sun over a period of 2 weeks or more. Mine grew roots rapidly but didn't grow new leaves for many weeks then they just took off.

Thanks for keeping this topic alive for so long.  I just started some cuttings using a pair of methods.  We've got a humidity chamber with 4 cuttings done in this manner, and also inside the chamber are some plastic baggies full of damp sphagnum and the majority of the rest of my cuttings.  They're only in the chamber because I only have 1 heat mat.  We'll see how it does....I feel like I'm playing a dangerous game between humidity, heat, and mold.

Also, my setup is about 400x more ghetto-rigged than yours, but there are fluorescent lights on a timer, a heat mat, and a big old plastic tub...the essentials it would seem.  We'll see how it goes.  I just really don't wanna lose some of the cuttings I just got, and I've never rooted cuttings before :-/

Rich,

This has been a great post, thanks for putting the time and effort on all the questions.  One question that came up for me as I'm doing my homework on starting cuttings indoors

In the world of hydroponics there is a huge amount of discussion on color temperatures, types of bulbs and etc.  I haven't yet found anything on the needs of figs.

Are you using a standard T8 bulbs or a special grow bulbs? 

tk

[QUOTE=E30]Rich,

This has been a great post, thanks for putting the time and effort on all the questions.  One question that came up for me as I'm doing my homework on starting cuttings indoors

In the world of hydroponics there is a huge amount of discussion on color temperatures, types of bulbs and etc.  I haven't yet found anything on the needs of figs.

Are you using a standard T8 bulbs or a special grow bulbs? 

tk[/QUOTE]

Phillips 6500k Daylight bulbs from Home Depot

Thanks

[img]https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8628/15232368443_450d4d1358_z.jpg[/img]

Plants propagated in the winter/ spring growing this summer


[img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7522/15826075456_64aa9625fe_z.jpg[/img]

Plants just about to loose their leaves this fall. Pictured with your's truly.

[img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7573/15826077326_e4af5df1cf_z.jpg[/img]

This years plants and a couple Bill's SIPS we have all put away for a nice winters rest.

Amazing growth for 1 year old plants there Rich. Great job!
Tyler

[QUOTE=tylerj]Amazing growth for 1 year old plants there Rich. Great job!
Tyler[/QUOTE]

Thanks

Wow! Thats a darn good job! I had been trying your method & was able to get 3 out of 15 to root. Most molded but the 3 that rooted have really good roots. One cup is almost totally filled with roots in about a months time. I took out the remaining cuttings, trashed some because they were too rotted and washed the mold off the rest. I put those into a homemade cloner. I figured since they were already moldy it's worth one last try to save them. I have total faith in your process, I just think I'm doing something wrong. I somehow have too much moisture in there, hence the mold. I think I will try again later in winter.

Hi Jenn,

I've found that if the perlite has too much dust or too small of perlite particle it will retain too much moisture if watered frequently. What I have available in my area tends to be that type of perlite. If you can find a good course perlite you won't have as much issue with rotting because it won't hold that much moisture. What I have to do with the finer grade perlite I have is after I water the cup initially and let the excess drain out I only water again once I can see that its actually drying out (usually the top half of the cup only after about a week or so in the bin). You get a good idea just by the weight of the cup what moisture level it has and you can see the condensation level on the side of the cup.

Tyler

Thanks Tyler, I will keep that in mind when I get more cuttings & try this method again.

Nice 1 year plants, Rich!  And a helpful tutorial that could allow more folks to have fig jungles like yours...thanks for documenting.   Did you allow any fruit to develop on your 1 yr olds?

[QUOTE=zone5figger]Nice 1 year plants, Rich!  And a helpful tutorial that could allow more folks to have fig jungles like yours...thanks for documenting.   Did you allow any fruit to develop on your 1 yr olds?[/QUOTE] Thanks , Yes we had some ripe fruit from the Red Greek. The Frank's Salerno and Viollette de Sollies had good sized fruit but didn't ripen. Some other varitites had very small fruit at the end of the season. Next year I think we will have many varitites to try.

Rich,

I looked through this thread but I never found this question:  At what point do you start seeing roots from your cuttings in the cups? 

It's easy enough for me to check my cuttings in sphagnum (disappointingly, might I add), but I don't mess with the perlite cuttings.  Of the cuttings I'm trying to root, I've got the ones I'm most excited for in perlite trying to imitate your setup as closely as possible.

[QUOTE=brettjm]Rich,

I looked through this thread but I never found this question:  At what point do you start seeing roots from your cuttings in the cups? 

It's easy enough for me to check my cuttings in sphagnum (disappointingly, might I add), but I don't mess with the perlite cuttings.  Of the cuttings I'm trying to root, I've got the ones I'm most excited for in perlite trying to imitate your setup as closely as possible.[/QUOTE] See post #65. Some take 2 weeks some have taken 6 weeks to show roots. It depends on the variety, when it was taken from the plant, how it was stored.... Many variables. You will see the roots in the bottom or sides or sometimes they come straight up out of the perlite. Take your time. Don't worry and don't play with them. Follow the directions in the post the best you can. I really only pick up the cups once or twice in a week to check for roots.

Rich:
        I just wanted to tell you that my very first "twigs to figs" was started today as an experiment on my rooting ability while using your method.  The cuttings that I am using are from my families unk dark fig and another unk Italian white fig that someone in Orange,N.J.  gave to me last week. Half of them were treated with rooting hormone and half without just to see if there is a big difference.  Thanks for a great tutorial of your method and Ill be sure to post  the results.

[QUOTE=fignatic]Rich:
        I just wanted to tell you that my very first "twigs to figs" was started today as an experiment on my rooting ability while using your method.  The cuttings that I am using are from my families unk dark fig and another unk Italian white fig that someone in Orange,N.J.  gave to me last week. Half of them were treated with rooting hormone and half without just to see if there is a big difference.  Thanks for a great tutorial of your method and Ill be sure to post  the results.
[/QUOTE]

You're welcome.

Rich, I am trying your propagation method on a smaller scale.  I rigged up a chamber that will hold 6 quart deli containers, sitting on a heat mat.  Temps inside are hovering about 82 degrees and leaving the 24" shop light on for 16 hours a day.  Hope to learn enough over the winter to have some viable plants survive come spring.  Thanks for the instructions.
 

wow will give it a try ,im new to growin figs this will be my first year
going to get  some cuttings from e-bay

Really struggling with this method right now.  Basically, most of my figs rooted, many rooted well.  When I see roots on the sides of the cups (good roots) I take the cuttings out, and continue the process outside of the humidity chamber.  Except, the entire setup is too dang wet in my opinion.  Here's a few notes:

1) Roots reaching the side of the cup where there is condensation is an instant death sentence...many roots turn brown within a few days, and continue to deteriorate until they are thoroughly rotted.
2) I've noticed a pattern with several rooted cuttings now...I take them out of the humidity chamber, I water them with really dilute fertilizer (no urea in it) or water (after I was worried about fert burn), and within 24-48 hours their roots turn brown and shiny, the leaves drop.  I unearthed a couple that this happened to and the beautiful root system that it had developed was completely rotted out. 
3) The cuttings that I don't water at all seem to do the best.
4)  Within the humidity chamber, I've had many cuttings that, after several weeks in perlite, I dumped out to have a look at.  Most of them had sent out tiny root nubbins that had turned brown and rotted at between 1/4" and 1/2".  I don't give them much water (once every 8-10 days I give them a TINY bit).  About 1/2 of these I actually started in sphagnum, then potted up to perlite when I saw roots.  Seems the saturated perlite was an instant death sentence to the roots.

Am I missing something?  Even the ones that have good root systems die the second I give them any liquid (step 7 in the process).  I'll be lucky to get 20% of my cuttings to survive at the rate I'm going.  I'm going to try to stick this process out, but I've killed 3 cuttings that had been doing great when I pulled them from the humidity chamber and watered them, with a 4th and 5th going down the crapper currently.

Brett,

I have noticed that since sifting the perlite to remove the small particles the cups do not retain much moisture at all compared to before. The cups weigh half as much as the others. I noticed that if you put a cutting in the cup and fill with unsifted perlite from the bag and water it that all the fine particles/dust will settle on the bottom half of the cup which can result in the bottom of the cutting rotting. So I would either sift the perlite... or rinse it separately before putting in the cups. Rich must have a higher grade perlite than what I have available here :(

Tyler

I did my best to presift using a colander.  Worked well to get rid of the dust and smallest particles.  Strangely, the ones with finer perlite are actually doing better.  Less condensation on the sides and less root death.

[QUOTE=brettjm]

Really struggling with this method right now.  Basically, most of my figs rooted, many rooted well.  When I see roots on the sides of the cups (good roots) I take the cuttings out, and continue the process outside of the humidity chamber.  Except, the entire setup is too dang wet in my opinion.  Here's a few notes:

1) Roots reaching the side of the cup where there is condensation is an instant death sentence...many roots turn brown within a few days, and continue to deteriorate until they are thoroughly rotted.
2) I've noticed a pattern with several rooted cuttings now...I take them out of the humidity chamber, I water them with really dilute fertilizer (no urea in it) or water (after I was worried about fert burn), and within 24-48 hours their roots turn brown and shiny, the leaves drop.  I unearthed a couple that this happened to and the beautiful root system that it had developed was completely rotted out. 
3) The cuttings that I don't water at all seem to do the best.
4)  Within the humidity chamber, I've had many cuttings that, after several weeks in perlite, I dumped out to have a look at.  Most of them had sent out tiny root nubbins that had turned brown and rotted at between 1/4" and 1/2".  I don't give them much water (once every 8-10 days I give them a TINY bit).  About 1/2 of these I actually started in sphagnum, then potted up to perlite when I saw roots.  Seems the saturated perlite was an instant death sentence to the roots.

Am I missing something?  Even the ones that have good root systems die the second I give them any liquid (step 7 in the process).  I'll be lucky to get 20% of my cuttings to survive at the rate I'm going.  I'm going to try to stick this process out, but I've killed 3 cuttings that had been doing great when I pulled them from the humidity chamber and watered them, with a 4th and 5th going down the crapper currently.

[QUOTE=tylerj]Brett,

I have noticed that since sifting the perlite to remove the small particles the cups do not retain much moisture at all compared to before. The cups weigh half as much as the others. I noticed that if you put a cutting in the cup and fill with unsifted perlite from the bag and water it that all the fine particles/dust will settle on the bottom half of the cup which can result in the bottom of the cutting rotting. So I would either sift the perlite... or rinse it separately before putting in the cups. Rich must have a higher grade perlite than what I have available here :(

Tyler[/QUOTE]

Perlite is from Home Depot. I scoop it out of the bag, put it in a bucket, add water, mix, and put it in the cups. Thats it nothing else.