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Calliope's Red Greek Fig unk.
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Kearny NJ Black Fig unk. with young figs [img]https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3762/13666504405_5dab5dd345.jpg[/img]
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Kearny NJ Green Fig unk. [img]https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3717/13666731393_f0a4c15a90.jpg[/img]


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"Recipe for success for propagating fig cuttings"

1) Put the cuttings into a quart clear deli containers with holes cut in the bottom . One per container. The bottom of the cutting should be 1-2" off the bottom of the container.

2) Fill with 100% perlite that's well saturated with water. Lightly pack down the perlite around the cutting and water with 2-3 baster fulls of water.I get my perlite from Home Depot

3) Put them into a closed clear humidity chamber (clear storage box from Ikea) 

4) Keep on a heat mat (Hydro Farm) with the thermostat (Hydro Farm) set at 80F (measured in the perlite, close to the middle and half way down to the bottom) The air temp will be equal to the perlite temp. There should always be a little water on the bottom of the chamber. The sides normally are wet with condensation.

Most times I get a lot of roots before I get buds by using bottom heat. Leave them in the chamber until you see a lot of roots and leaves

5) Keep under a 4 bulb T8 fluorescent fixture light turned on for 14 hours

6) As soon as they get leaves (1/2-3/4") and roots I can see on the bottom and/or sides put them on a tray on the heat mat.

7) After they have been transfered out of the chamber soak I them with 2 part hydroponics solution until it flows out of the bottom once a day . 2 squirts from a turkey baster in each container. I'm disposing of the flow-thru solution.

I use Cana Aqua 2 part mixed 5ml/gal I purchase from Hydro Girl at the Grow Room in Nyack NY. I alternate 2 times plain water to 1 time hydro solution.

8) When there are many roots and big leaves I move them off the heat mat to a table under lights again for 14 hrs/day. They get 1-2 cups of the same solution as above daily. 

9) When they are extensively rooted I cut the container down the sides and I transplant them to a #5 pot that I fill with 90% MG potting solid and 10% perlite.

If you can follow these directions you can have the same results as I have had.

Thanks Rich, I'll give that a try.

You have beautiful results.    it looks so easy,  i don't know where i keep going wrong.  thanks for sharing.

Rich Really nice tutorial Rich, thanks for taking the time to share your technique.

Wow, I am amazed! Thanks for sharing. They are lovely

Healthy looking plants. Great job.

Hard to argue with those results, Rich. Thank you for the well done step by step tutorial. It is very helpful.

Gary

Rich,
Thanks for sharing the pictures and your method.

Hi Rich,

Awesome!  So it was only 120 days from putting the dormant stick into the pearlite in the humidity bin to trees with over (looks like) a foot of new stem growth?  Man they look fantastic!

If they try to produce figs this year will you remove them, or is the tree strong enough? 

Thanks for sharing your technique!

Phil

Hey Rich so you use 2 heat mats, one for the chamber and one for the tray? Thanks for your info.

Excellent job! Thank you for sharing because you have definitely mastered this process!

[QUOTE=drphil69]Hi Rich,

Awesome!  So it was only 120 days from putting the dormant stick into the pearlite in the humidity bin to trees with over (looks like) a foot of new stem growth?  Man they look fantastic!

If they try to produce figs this year will you remove them, or is the tree strong enough? 

Thanks for sharing your technique!

Phil[/QUOTE] Yes. I will grow out all the figs I can.

[QUOTE=rafaelissimmo]Hey Rich so you use 2 heat mats, one for the chamber and one for the tray? Thanks for your info.[/QUOTE]

Same heat mat for the chamber and the tray next to it. Thermostat is in a cutting in the chamber

Thanks for sharing. The roots that you're getting out of your cuttings are so nice!

Thanks for the great contribution, Rich!  You're plants look terrific :)

That's very impressive, and the lack of soil completely eliminates fungus gnat infestation.  Good job! 

Suzi

Your plants look wonderful. I'm going to try this since I haven't been successful with sphagnum and damp paper towels.. Thanks for sharing this technique.

Rich, awesome job, please post more pics later in the season, Peace, chad

Thanks for sharing Rich. I am jealous, seriously. Norhayati

Hi RichinNJ,
You've got good results in Step one. Soon time for step two:  Time to get them outside .
Good luck !

[QUOTE=RichinNJ]"Recipe for success for propagating fig cuttings"

7) After they have been transfered out of the chamber soak I them with 2 part hydroponics solution until it flows out of the bottom once a day . 2 squirts from a turkey baster in each container. I'm disposing of the flow-thru solution.

I use Cana Aqua 2 part mixed 5ml/gal I purchase from Hydro Girl at the Grow Room in Nyack NY. I alternate 2 times plain water to 1 time hydro solution.

8) When there are many roots and big leaves I move them off the heat mat to a table under lights again for 14 hrs/day. They get 1-2 cups of the same solution as above daily. 

9) When they are extensively rooted I cut the container down the sides and I transplant them to a #5 pot that I fill with 90% MP potting solid and 10% perlite.
[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the info.  I have a few questions though.

in #7, you say you give the hydro juice once a day, but then say alternate 2 times plain water to 1 time hydro juice.  Does that mean your watering them 3 times a day?  twice plain water, once hydro juice?

Then the same during step 8?  How big is your turkey baster in mL?  Is a "squirt" the same as a full turkey baster?

Finally when up potting you leave all the perlite in the root ball and just surround with media?  or do you wash away some or all of the perlite before up potting.

oh almost forgot.  The closet where I do my rooting and initial growing stays a constant 80F.  Do you think I'll still need to use a heat mat?

Thanks,
James

[QUOTE=DallasFigs][QUOTE=RichinNJ]"Recipe for success for propagating fig cuttings"

7) After they have been transfered out of the chamber soak I them with 2 part hydroponics solution until it flows out of the bottom once a day . 2 squirts from a turkey baster in each container. I'm disposing of the flow-thru solution.

I use Cana Aqua 2 part mixed 5ml/gal I purchase from Hydro Girl at the Grow Room in Nyack NY. I alternate 2 times plain water to 1 time hydro solution.

8) When there are many roots and big leaves I move them off the heat mat to a table under lights again for 14 hrs/day. They get 1-2 cups of the same solution as above daily. 

9) When they are extensively rooted I cut the container down the sides and I transplant them to a #5 pot that I fill with 90% MP potting solid and 10% perlite.
[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the info.  I have a few questions though.

in #7, you say you give the hydro juice once a day, but then say alternate 2 times plain water to 1 time hydro juice.  Does that mean your watering them 3 times a day?  twice plain water, once hydro juice?

Then the same during step 8?  How big is your turkey baster in mL?  Is a "squirt" the same as a full turkey baster?

Finally when up potting you leave all the perlite in the root ball and just surround with media?  or do you wash away some or all of the perlite before up potting.

oh almost forgot.  The closet where I do my rooting and initial growing stays a constant 80F.  Do you think I'll still need to use a heat mat?

Thanks,
James


[/QUOTE] Water 1x per day All plants Turkey baster is 40ml per squirt Do not disturb root ball. Plant as seen in photo 1-2" below top of soil I would use a heat mat. Bottom heat drives root growth. Cooler tops promotes reduction in leafy growth. The basement where I grow my plants is 75 in the day and 65 at night 20% humidity. I grow my plants on 48x24 steel shelves I bought at Costco online. They are for the food industry . 4 shelf unit is $160.

Good work, mate.

okay.. I'm trying a couple your way and see what happens.  Thanks!

Very nice!  How tall is the humidity bin?

[QUOTE=nycfig]Very nice!  How tall is the humidity bin?[/QUOTE]

They are the 16" tall clear storage containers from IKEA .

Its really awesome Rich. !!!.

Can I share your PIC...?  and I'll try it ,Hopefully it would work as well as your tree in our tropical climate.

Salam
zaitun

Very nice tutorial..... Does it work in tropical climate with high humidity ?.... I do rooting quite a lot of cuttings, they do well in the humidity chamber.... But when I repotting them and put it outside of the humidity chamber... All starting to dry out..... From 40 cuttings that root, only few is survive..... Maybe I should use perlite like you do..... Thanks Rich....

Thanks for sharing Rich!

Rich, This is an Outstanding Post!! I've learned a lot just from this One Post! Thanks! :)

I am posting here several photos of cuttings with which I have had good results using this method, with a little tinkering on my part. Two of the cuttings were in real trouble and have been rescued from near death. I will show the cutting and the roots if possible. First is a BM cutting from Jon, after nearly losing it using another method, I place the cutting in Spaghnum Moss and it developed a couple of small root initials and a small leaf. Then, I put it in a small cup of perlite, into a humidity chamber with heat mat on the bottom, set to 80 F. As of today, leafing out nicely and even the terminal bud, which was nearly dried out, has broken bud. The roots are looking nice. I am hydrating with a custom blend of Cornucopia fertilizer, Cal-Mag for calcium, root start rooting enhancer, and a little peroxide.

This is a cutting of Paradiso Gene, it struggled in a cup of perlite for about a month under hydroponic lights in open air. There were 2 unhealthy looking leaves and no terminal bud visible. Not good. After a couple of days in the humidity chamber, a new bud appeared and after about a week we have 3 new leaves.

Finally, I had two Adriatic JH cuttings, they started to root in Spaghnum Moss. One went into straight perlite, the other into a mix of 2/3 perlite 1/3 peat moss. The peat moss cutting is showing particularly vigorous roots.

[QUOTE=rafaelissimmo]I am posting here several photos of cuttings with which I have had good results using this method, with a little tinkering on my part. Two of the cuttings were in real trouble and have been rescued from near death. I will show the cutting and the roots if possible. First is a BM cutting from Jon, after nearly losing it using another method, I place the cutting in Spaghnum Moss and it developed a couple of small root initials and a small leaf. Then, I put it in a small cup of perlite, into a humidity chamber with heat mat on the bottom, set to 80 F. As of today, leafing out nicely and even the terminal bud, which was nearly dried out, has broken bud. The roots are looking nice. I am hydrating with a custom blend of Cornucopia fertilizer, Cal-Mag for calcium, root start rooting enhancer, and a little peroxide.

[/QUOTE]

That's great Rafael. I'm happy that by sharing my experience with others good things have happened.

At this point using this method Rich, what would you say is your success rate? Judging by this tutorial this is a method I will employ in the future.

I'm 36/37 so far

I think I killed the one by fertilizing and then allowing it to dry out so it was due to me not paying attention

That's a fantastic success rate Rich! I will definitely use this method next year. Thanks for sharing your technique.

Rich, I was wondering how often you water the cuttings while they are in the humidity chamber and if you do, what do you use? I understand that you water with the 2 part solution once they are on the tray/heat mat alternating with water, but not quite sure in the chamber. BTW, I put a couple of struggling cuttings in perlite yesterday in a chamber, so I am curious. Thanks!

I water the cuttings in the humidity chamber infrequently with plain water. Maybe once a week or 10 days. One baser full will usually be enough. There should allways be a couple tablesppons of water on the bottom of the chamber

[QUOTE=RichinNJ]I water the cuttings in the humidity chamber infrequently with plain water. Maybe once a week or 10 days. One baser full will usually be enough. There should allways be a couple tablesppons of water on the bottom of the chamber[/QUOTE]

Thank you!

A few of the featured plants post summer growth ....more photos later
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Impressive work and excellent results.

Thanks.... Anyone of you folks out there can do this.

Thats impressive! Great work. I have a MBVS that has about that much growth over the summer, but its the only one. I think I had them too shaded. I left them all in indirect sun for half the summer. Once I put them in full sun, they all took off! I'm going to hopefully try your method in the spring. You really gave a great tutorial. Very detailed and informative.

Looking good, congrats Rich.

Thanks for this very informative post!