Encanto Farms Nursery > Categories > My new rooting method

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Bass

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I've tried a new way of rooting cuttings. 

On Febraury 20th I took two long cuttings of Brooklyn White.


I used these long pots, they're about the same length of the cuttings.


I added a soil mix consisting of mostly perlite and some pine bark and peat moss. Cover most of the cutting and expose only one bud.


A couple weeks later you can see the bud growing vigorously. By now the cuttings are fully rooted, you can see the roots sticking out of the bottom. 


As you see, there was really nothing special. More buds covered in the soil means more roots, only one bud was exposed which allowed all the energy went into the growth of this bud.
Figluvah

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Posts: 1,111

That's great Bass


We wouldn't expect anything else from you.

Thanks for taking the time to help us!

Regards
gorgi

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Posts: 2,864

Those "Treepots" are manufactured by Stuewe and Sons:


I have successfully bought and used (short one) TP49 (4x9.5"),
to root more-than-average-long fig twigs before,
e.g. cuttings from UCD - less one decides to cut them in half
and later claim some 100+% [fautly math] rooting success rate!
I used them [pots] for some fat-twigs too.

Other Treepot dimensions are available (e.g. 4x14").

One retail source:

Two advantages I see are:
(a) pots are loongish (compared to volume), and
(b) pot sides are fluted, which helps new roots not to circle around...

[Edit: One minor disadvantage (TP49); the bottom holes are rather too
big for me, needed to place some soil-blocker; e.g., a piece of pine-bark
or just a 2 sq".  piece of paper-towel]

A word of caution!
These pots will incur some more $$ expense,
and other (cheaper) proven fig rooting pots/cups
for 'normal' cuttings should not be ignored/discarded...
 
robertharper

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Posts: 369

Good looking plants Bass. How often did you have to water before they started to leaf out?


Bob
Bass

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Once every two days, but they were kept in the greenhouse where it's not dry like indoors.

Bass

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Find a dairy basket the one used for milk cartons, you can put up to nine. They sell holders for them but are very pricy.

gorgi

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Treepot Trays also do exist e.g., TP49T (I have none) holds 12 TP49 pots:


If one already has (or can scourge)  one of those
plastic milk crates, it will also very snugly hold 12 such pots.
georgek

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Posts: 53

Bass

What is your success rate on these pots.  How many have you tried

George
JD

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Posts: 1,162

Bass,
What did you put them in after the TP49? And that growth was only after..."a couple of weeks"?
JD
rafed

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Posts: 5,308

Been looking for these type of containers, thanks Bass and Gorgi.

Bass,
Everyone mentions their skills, methods and ingredients and posts their success or failure on the forum.

One thing I don't see mentioned all too often is the volume of water being used ( if any ).
I know there are some including myself using mini greenhouses to provide humidity and moisture to reduce the need to water.
But what about during the time you are potting up the roots?

Are you soaking the pot with water and let it drain or are you just giving it just a bit?
snaglpus

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Posts: 4,072

I like those pots Bass.  I also use the 12 inch Uline bags for long cuttings.  Works like a charm.
Bass

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The frequency of watering depends on many factors. 

  1. The soil, the quick draining soil means that the cuttings will require more frequent watering. I use a quick draining mix to avoid molding. It consists of perlite, pine bark fines, small amount of peat moss.
  2. The humidity, the drier the growing area the more frequent water should be. The humidity in the greenhouse is around 70%-80%. 
  3. Once the cutting develops roots and leaves the soil will dry up quicker, you may need to increase watering. 
  4. Whenever I water I soak it  until the water comes out of the bottom. Again the soil is important that it needs to have good drainage.
The bottom line with watering you have to understand your plant needs.

George, My success rate was 100% but I only tried it with about 4 cuttings. 
robertharper

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Posts: 369

Bass, I think the long deep pots you used present a more attractive product.


How long can they stay in pots that are that narrow without becoming root bound?

Bob
loslunasfarms

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Posts: 380

I have the whole collection of tree pots. They work very well. I use the long tall ones and root them directly.

I no longer waste my time with paper towels. After 150+ trees, they seem to have more will to survive than I give them credit for. I stick cuttings in a well draining potting soil I put together and I usually have 80%+ success.
satellitehead

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Posts: 3,687

Have any of you guys using these tall pots with huge sticks cut the stick in half after it's well-rooted? Just curious if the bottom half of the stick would root, leaving you with two trees.
james

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Posts: 1,653

Hi Bass,

I'm not sure how relevant this is to your method.  This year I went from baggie to ground.  I most of the cutting in the ground and then most of the remainder with mulch. Many cuttings were completely hidden from view.  Some of the cuttings had branch development from the lower nodes.  Those have started to surface from the mulch as much as 6" away from the original cutting. 

I'm sure if your cuttings branch below the surface, the branches will find their way to the surface.  If they have to travel too far from the bottom, they may be still buried when you repot and could be damaged.

~james