Encanto Farms Nursery > Categories > Can I air layer main trunk ?

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Johnparav

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Posts: 479

Hi all ,

I have an opportunity to buy a 10 year old fig tree that is beautifully pruned and full of figs from a friend who doesn't know the variety but green outside and white inside and great taste.
My problem is that my garage is 7.5 feet tall and this tree is almost 9 feet . There is 1 main trunk about 2.5 to 3 inches diameter . And the branches start at the 5 foot level . It is in a 20 gallon pot .
I was wondering if I could air layer the main trunk with maybe a 10 - 15 gallon pot sitting on the main pot or a bit higher . This would decrease the height by apx 2 feet and not ruin the shape.
I did this with a 5 foot tree once but the trunk was only 3/4 inch . It worked great and gave me 2 trees.

Thanks .... John

northeastnewbie

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Posts: 407

John I would just try and bring the top down by pruning it back to fit or build a bigger garage. HAHA the things we will do for our trees is amazing......

Johnparav

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Posts: 479

Hey northeastnewbie ,

I have had to trim the tops of a couple others to fit in the garage but that would basically destroy this tree due to the fact that almost all the branching would be cut away .
But the garage does have a bedroom above it . I don't think my daughter would mind a 4 foot diameter hole in the floor . Hmmm.

John

Chivas

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Posts: 1,675

My neighbor pushed her tree over and it's growing sideways really so maybe you pot in on an angle and get it to fit in?

Ben_in_SoFla

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Posts: 134

Air layering that tree would set it back several years. I agree with Northeastnewbie, why not just chop the top off and make it fit in the garage. You can also put in on a dolly and wheel it in at an angle. I have air layered crepe myrtles about 1 3/4 inches to two inches, it took a couple of years to get a solid rootmass.
I have air layered fig branches about 1 inch thick and it takes longer to get a rootball than a smaller branch.  I would not mess with air layering the trunk of this fig tree.
If it was my tree I would trim the top or bring it the garage at an angle without any trimming.
Or you can plan where to trim and air layer those branches that you'll be cutting off anyway and have some selling/trading material....





northeastnewbie

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Posts: 407

I think ben hit it on the head when the tree is dormant just lie it on its side support the main trunk with a saw horse to prevent top damage and let it rest on its side., We dig our trees and knock them over cover them with dirt then dig them up and they are fine.. As long as the tree does not break any top branches let it sleep on its side.

The_celt

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Posts: 874

Cut the roots back and put less dirt in the pot for the winter. On a 20 gallon that's like 1-1.5 feet.

Ben_in_SoFla

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Posts: 134

A 20 gallon pot is roughly 18 inches high, I don't see where you have the room to cutback the rootmass and gain any vertical space. Maybe 3-4 inches, I would not remove anymore than that.

Removing any substantial amount of rootmass (unless it's time root prune due to rootbound plant) is flirting with a long setback or worse. 

It all starts with the roots...

Johnparav

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Posts: 479

Thanks for your input guys.

I can't pass up this tree , I will try to post a photo when I get it . The price is very reasonable .
The owner was going to sell it last year due to the height issue but changed his mind last minute and couldn't part with it.
I might be able to fit it in with my in ground tree in the figloo.

John

Johnparav

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Posts: 479

Found a pic of exactly what I am talking about .

[IMG]http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb362/johnparav/4331e1ca.png[/IMG]

Link to website.

http://bonsaibark.com/2009/07/31/a-simple-air-layering-technique/

John

leon_edmond

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Posts: 923

I think you're risking too much by trying to airlayer the tree to shorten the height. Absolutely does not make sense at all to do this. It will eventually put on growth at the top anyway, which will need to be pruned later on.
Just prune down the top as was suggested and go from there.

Johnparav

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Posts: 479

These are the results of the 5 month air layer I made on the tree to reduce its height .

The tree planted in my yard in May 7 feet tall 2 inch trunk.
[IMG]http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb362/johnparav/GEDC1445.jpg[/IMG]

Place a pot upside down for airlayer pot to sit on
[IMG]http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb362/johnparav/GEDC1447.jpg[/IMG]

The airlayer bucket
[IMG]http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb362/johnparav/GEDC1448.jpg[/IMG]

Cut away about 60% of the way around trunk
[IMG]http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb362/johnparav/GEDC1450.jpg[/IMG]

Installed bucket and potting soil . put sphag moss around wounded area
[IMG]http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb362/johnparav/GEDC1453.jpg[/IMG]

Air layer raedy to go
[IMG]http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb362/johnparav/GEDC1454.jpg[/IMG]

5 months later removed bottom support bucket and ready to cut
[IMG]http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb362/johnparav/IMG_2128.jpg[/IMG]

Lots of roots
[IMG]http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb362/johnparav/IMG_2131.jpg[/IMG]

Final product
[IMG]http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb362/johnparav/IMG_2133.jpg[/IMG]

Thanks .. John

lukeott

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Posts: 645

John,

You do great work. Looks good.

 

                                             luke

TucsonKen

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Posts: 1,298

Very nice job! A big improvement.

theman7676

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Posts: 361

looks great john. 

what did you gain in terms of the new height?
what about the old roots / trunk? is that something worth keeping to form a 2nd tree down the road?

Ben_in_SoFla

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Posts: 134

Am sure the stump, will explode with new growth in the spring, providing the cold doesn't kill it. Looks to be big enough that it will sprout from roots even is stump dies.


Excellent work, if the only goal was to shorten the tree, you also could have just topped it and forced it to branch in lower trunk. I guess one is as good as the other. Thanks for showing the re-attachment of the bucket around the tree, good to know.
Just goes to show that where there is a will there is a way...

Rob

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Posts: 550

Very nice work.  I am new to figging and continue to be amazed at how versatile these plants are.  It is really nice to see follow ups to these posts months or years later, gives invaluable knowledge to those of us who don't have the guts to try it. 

I probably would have just placed it on an angle like another person suggested.  But I think you'll definitely get two nice trees from this endeavor and will be rewarded for your risk.

Johnparav

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Posts: 479

Luke , Ken thanks.
Eli , the air layer shortened the tree by at least 2 feet . Otherwise all the new growth over 7 feet would have to be trimmed back every year so it could fit in storage for the winter . This tree was 9 feet to start with . This way I managed to keep the shape and bring the branches lower , more of a bush shape.
Ben , I intend on protecting the stump over winter . When I planted it the tree was in a 20 gallon pot ,so there is a large root mass .
Rob , I already had 2 trees of this variety so it was a bit easier to take the risk . But experimenting is half the fun and when we share our experiences , good or bad that's how we all learn . Thats what I've gotten out of this forum.

Thanks ... John

Johnparav

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Posts: 479

Hi all ,

Here is an update showing the tree ( and the original rootball ) made it through the winter and has about 60 figs on it . Gillette ( breba only tree ) .

HERE IS THE TREE JUNE 1 2012
[IMG]http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb362/johnparav/IMG_4027.jpg[/IMG]

BREBA
[IMG]http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb362/johnparav/IMG_4028.jpg[/IMG]

ON THE LEFT ORIGINAL POT ,  RIGHT ORIGINAL ROOTBALL PRUNED & POTTED
[IMG]http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb362/johnparav/IMG_4198.jpg[/IMG]

NEW GROWTH ON ORIGINAL ROOTBALL ( for Nelson if he still wants it )
[IMG]http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb362/johnparav/IMG_4109.jpg[/IMG]

John

Dieseler

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Posts: 8,252

If it were mine i would wait till its dormant and cut to level were right above those branches and just above a node, next season will bring new shoots at that node and some lower as well.
Keep the scion you cut in dormant season for further winter fun.
Your not going to kill it.
Each season prune as desired .

BronxFigs

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Posts: 1,864

John...

Thank-you so much for photo documenting this process, and posting all the photos for everyone to see.  It is really interesting to read all of the varying comments  - pro and con -  for the air-layering process, but even more interesting to see the final results.

I hope the tree brings you great figs.  Really a nice tree.  Good luck and a happy growing season.

Frank

Johnparav

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Posts: 479

Hey Martin
I see what you mean . That would make a nice shape . At the height it is now (after the air layer of trunk was done ), and with all the branching I am happy with this tree . But if it gets too big again that would be a good way to go . Thanks for your input .

Hey Frank
I am glad you found this interesting . You're right , the pictures make all the difference , with before during and after the process. Sometimes little things you see in a photo answer questions you don't know you would even have .

John

hblta

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Posts: 711

Beatiful tree, John.

the little black ones I got from you are doing well

Grant
z5b

Johnparav

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Posts: 479

Hey Grant ,

Thanks . Good to hear Grant . I am trying to propagate as many of those as I can . I want to get that variety out there to as many collectors as I can to ensure its survival . It is that good !!!

John

gorgi

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Posts: 2,864

Man, what a great job and to what an effort some people go through for figs?

Dave

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Posts: 1,482

I also started a main trunk air layer I picked up the tree 2 weeks ago and it didn't look quite as tall at the nursery as when I got it home, the top of the tree has such nice shape I didn't want to start hacking it up if you notice in the picture I added a little window so I could take a peek every now and then to see if the roots have reached the outside of the pot I like the idea of the upside down pot to hold up the layering pot might have to steal that idea LOL 

Johnparav

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Posts: 479

Hey Dave ,

Great idea about the window to view root formation . I think I'll be stealing that idea .
Thanks for posting pics .

John

noss

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Posts: 2,122

I have an LSU Purple tree I am going to do this with.  When I got it, it had some freeze damage at the bottom of the trunk and it's never done real well, maybe because of that damage.  I am going to air layer the whole tree, as it's not very large.  I cut the top back a bit this Spring.  I can leave the air layer on as long as possible because it will turn into its own plant.  Great pictures, guys.

Really nice trees, too.

John,  What did you use to cut the hole in the bottoms of the pots?  Are the pieces of wood under the upside-down pot for air circulation?

How about you, Dave?  What did you use to cut the opening in the pot?

Thanks,

noss


Johnparav

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Posts: 479

Hey Noss,

I used a 2.5 inch hole saw on a drill . The wood is so pot wouldn't sink into the soil.

John

Dave

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Posts: 1,482

same as Johnparav a hole saw the same size as the trunk and a bigger one for the window 

noss

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Posts: 2,122

Thanks, John & Dave,

We have all sizes of hole saws aroun--IF we can find them.  :/

Re:  The wood--Well, I didn't think of that--to keep it from sinking.  Thanks.

What are those metal plates?  My mind saw them and turned them into duct tape, which doesn't make any real sense, with it being on the inside of the pot like that.  Looks very strong.

noss

Johnparav

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Posts: 479

Noss,

You can find the metal plate at home depot . They are for securing 2x4's together , they come in all shapes and sizes for 90 degree joints 45 degree etc .

John

snaglpus

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Posts: 4,072

Great thread John! I'm going to try this.

Johnparav

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Posts: 479

Thanks Dennis .

Just start it as early as possible if its a big tree and wait till fall to cut it . The roots will keep growing even if the tree drops its leaves as long as doesnt go below 43f or so . Then come spring you got yourself 2 trees .

John

noss

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Posts: 2,122

Hi John,

Thanks, I know what you're talking about.  Neat!

We got some of those plates to put at the peak of the roof inside our garden shed to strengthen the roof where the 2 bys butt up against the ridge. 

You can screw those plates on and make a really strong joint that would give a hurricane a run for its money with those.  We also tied the roof down to the walls.  If our house blows away, we can always huddle in the garden shed.  LOL!

noss

Grasa

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these are amazing pictures of great job, guys!

garden_whisperer

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Brovo. very nice. even insperatinal.

Jaycor

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Very nice job demonstrating the air layering technique for the main trunk.  I was wondering about the open pot that you use over the airlayered area.  Do you add water to the pot on a regular basis? Also - do you add any liquid fertilizer to the air layered section during the process or just to the main rootball?  I'm planning on giving this technique a try.

Thank you very much.

eithieus

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Posts: 334

very helpful post. thank you very much.

americanfiglover

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[URL=http://s712.photobucket.com/user/americanfigboy/media/Figs/Negronne%20Fig/JAH_9922.jpg.html][IMG]http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww127/americanfigboy/Figs/Negronne%20Fig/JAH_9922.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Maybe I can do that to this tree to get the bottom growth to grow.

paully22

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Posts: 2,719

Good thread. Thanks. Will try it on some tall trees growing in pots.

rcantor

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Posts: 5,727

Bump for a great way to shorten a tree that's too tall.  Thanks to Pete (Bullet08) for finding it and Dennis (Snaglpus) for suggesting it.  I wish I'd known about it before I risked my Panache's crop this year.

drphil69

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Posts: 803

That is just incredible! THANKS! Great thread!

twovkay

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Posts: 264

Just did this to a tree i cant reach to the top. Thanks for all the helpfull pictures and do you separate the two during the fall? Or after it goes dormant?