I stopped by at a Napa's store and got a bag of their Oil Absorbent (Floor Dry) to use for a soil mix.
The particle size was a bit smaller than I expected, about a third of a corn kernel.

Is this the right stuff or they sell some other Oil Absorbent that comes in larger particles?
Could you post a photo if yes, please?

Thanks!

Here is a stock photo I found online that represents what I mean:

 

Was it this one? http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Oil-Absorbent-24-QT-Diatomaceous-Earth-Absorbent/_/R-NFQ8822_0189041133

Haven't gotten it yet, but it's what what recommended by hoosierbanana.

ascpete also mentioned using this: http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/safe-t-sorbtrade%3B-oil-absorbent-40-lb

Kelby,

It is the one from your first link, Diatomaceous Earth.

The second link points to  Montmorillonite clay which may work in a similar way but I have not tried it yet.

Greenfig,
  I wonder if that stock photo shows sifted or unsifted Floor Dry.  Those particles in the image actually look pretty big (i.e. a good size) to me.  The equivalent calcined clay product I get from Advanced Auto Parts has a much larger range of sizes, including very small pieces and some powder, that really should be sifted out.
  Also, note that DE (diatomaceous earth) IS different than the calcined clay used in Napa floor dry and turface and such...
Cheers,
Jim

I've used NAPA part #8822 as a mix component for several years. It looks similar to the photo posted. It is recommended as a substitute component for "5-1-1 gritty mix" which was originally formulated for potted citrus trees and works very nicely for figs. It drains fast and holds quite a bit of air and water. Good stuff, but it requires a good, regular fertilizer program and it doesn't hold enough water for extended dry spells in hot climates without regular watering

Greenfig,
Kelby's links show the correct products...
They should also say "Calcined" on the label, Calcined clay or Calcined Diatomaceous Earth. The product from Tractor Supply is Calcined clay and is 1/2 the price of the NAPA Floor Dry #8822.

Thanks, guys!

Pete,
I paid $7.99 for a 24 qts bag, I am not sure about the Tractor Supply's price but what I paid is not bad. It is local and I do not pay for shipping.

Anybody tried to root (or grow) the cuttings in this without mixing with anything else?
It seems the absorption is quite high and there will be enough oxygen for the young roots and not much free water.
Also, the gnats might not like this too!

I have a few cuttings in a box with coco and will try to pot them up in a cup with Napa 8822 next.

This link is quite interesting:
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/contain/msg0210341723793.html?90

[QUOTE=needaclone]Greenfig,
  I wonder if that stock photo shows sifted or unsifted Floor Dry.  Those particles in the image actually look pretty big (i.e. a good size) to me.  The equivalent calcined clay product I get from Advanced Auto Parts has a much larger range of sizes, including very small pieces and some powder, that really should be sifted out.
  Also, note that DE (diatomaceous earth) IS different than the calcined clay used in Napa floor dry and turface and such...
Cheers,
Jim[/QUOTE]

Jim,
It is possible that the photo displays the sifted Floor Dry. My bag has some smaller particles but not too much, it is not like a perlite bag with lots of dust. I can live with this or sift a little.

Greenfig,
A 40lb bag at Tractor supply is $6.00...

Yes, several members including myself have tried rooting in a high % absorbent mix. in my experience it works but the calcined Clay locks up too much moisture and becomes a problem when it needs to be watered. Its better used as a smaller portion of varied mix.

BTW, I've also rooted cuttings in the Gritty Mix successfully, its the 1-1-1 ratio all sifted. Pine Bark Fines - Crushed Granite (Pullet Grit) - Calcined Clay.

Good Luck.

Wow, ok $6 for 40lb is hard to beat!

Pete, thanks for the suggestions. I have a bag of small bark fines (Orchid's bark, about a pea size particles, very uniform), will try your mix too.
I like that it is going to be heavier than a perlite+coco mix I currently use. The cups will be much more stable.

How often do you water and fertilize the cuttings in the Pine Bark Fines - Crushed Granite (Pullet Grit) - Calcined Clay mix?

Greenfig,
You're welcome.
The Gritty Mix was introduced by Al Tapla at GardenWeb. I don't currently use that mix to root or grow cuttings

My Current method is rooting cuttings in a sifted 1-1-1-1/2 mix (Bark Fines - Coco Coir - Perlite - Calcined Clay) directly in 2 Liter Soda Bottle SIPs. They are fertigated as soon as roots are visible. The SIPs and Fertigation schedules were posted under my topics earlier this year. The larger particles are sifted with a window screen sieve.

Pete,

Yes, I have read many posts at Gardenweb about the Gritty Mix and the 5-1-1.
Tapla is a very patient man explaining all the benefits and shortcomings of his mixes in great details.
It was 2 or so years ago, when I was looking for a citrus container mix.
Since then I decided to plant the lemons/oranges in the ground and they like it there very much.
Now it is more about them figs :)

Does anyone know if these products can be used in replacement of Turface in the Gritty Mix? I can't imagine you can get a better price for that type of product than from TSC.

I'd like to try the gritty mix, but I don't think it's too easy to get around here and I'm sure it'll cost me.

With the 1-1-1 gritty mix of Pine Bark Fines, Turface (calcined clay), granite grit does one still need Dolomite?

If so how much Dolomite per one gallon of mix?
 
Thanks

Kelby,
Turface is a calcined clay product and so is the Tractor supply Oil Absorbent. I've used the Tractor supply Oil Absorbent instead of Turface, but make sure the bag specifically says Calcined Clay.
http://www.turface.com/sites/default/files/landscape_brochure.pdf
Good Luck.


Don,
Here are a few links to the Gritty Mix recipes...
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/contain/msg1216020727009.html
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/contain/msg031028425011.html
Good Luck.

Thanks, Pete!

If I have duplicates I'll to do a trial comparing some mixes next year....5-1-1, 5-1-1-1, Gritty, and my own "whatever is in the shed" mix.

Biochar is supposed to offer benefits of both peat and perlite in a pottings mix, pushes pH towards alkaline,  and provide additional bonus of a carbon negative ingredient.  'Super' enough?

http://www.biochar-international.org/node/4268

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nfdoKKaz5RY

I wrote a term paper in college about bio-char (terra preta) in the Amazon, it's neat stuff.

That Tractor Supply price is very good.  The equivalent product at Advance Auto Parts (Moltan Thrifty Sorb) is about $8.50 for a 40 lb bag.
Jim

Just slightly off subject - the granite grit is rather expensive around here, sold for grit to help with digestion for your chickens.  Small bag at Tractor Supply cost much more than the 40 lb bag of Oil Absorb.  No granite mountains around here to go collect my own decomposed granite like I did out West

Ed,
Pullet or Layer Grit is available locally at my local Feed Store for ~ $8.00 for 50lb bag. It may also be available at Agway in larger bags at a lower price.
Good Luck.

Jesse/Kelby,

I think that hydrophilic biochar would be the best option, but I've only worked with it in mixes.  This winter I plan to start working with it as the major or only component for seed starting and potted plant apps.  Once I finish trialing I promise to post results.

I've worked with Napa's floor dry and it has amazing capacity to hold water while leaving good air access to the roots.  Having said that I found that it had negative impact on the citrus seedlings I trialed in it unless I pre-burned it out in a fire.  The bag I bought had a noticeable hydrocarbon smell when I saturated it with water.  After I burned it off in a fire that smell went away.  I blame those residual hydrocarbons on the poor plant performance.  So beware!  For it's intended use there's no reason for them to eliminate all the hydrocarbons that are frequently found in diatomite.  Calcined clay products won't have that issue.

Greg,

What was the problem you experienced with the citrus seedlings?
Just the smell or the propertied of the Floor Dry's particles too?

The seedlings were growing out more slowly in mixes that had a large percentage of out of the bag Floor Dry compared to other mixes I was experimenting with.  This was not the case when I burned whatever was in the Floor Dry.  Maybe at smaller percentages it wouldn't be noticeable.  I was experimenting with mixes that had little to no organics as I was curious about potting mix options that wouldn't rot over time.

Interesting ... I do not remember anybody mentioned this on the GW forum or here. I potted up 6 cuttings in a mix with the out-of-the-bag Floor Dry, about 25% the volume, will see how they grow. Thanks for experimenting and mentioning!

How did this work, or not?  I've been researching calcined clay and guess where I landed?  Right back at f4f lol.  

Seems for varieties that are said to be hard to root due to excess moisture, it might be just the thing.

I add it to every mix ( Promix + compost), I like it a lot. No side effects, creates an airy mix easily and cheaply.

Did some detective work as a comparison of two clay type absorbents.  

Oil Dry brand from Walmart $4.22 for 25 pounds.

 

Versus...

Safe T Sorb from Tractor Supply $6.29 for 40 pounds.

 

Both bags were sifted dry through a standard window screen and the result is seen in two 5 gallon buckets...

 

Overall, the Safe T Sorb was much more dusty and judge for yourself on the volume comparison of what would not go through the window screen.

The next two photo's showing particle size comparison.  Even though Oil Dry seems to have lost less by screening, the overall particle size is smaller and more uniform than Safe T Sorb, which has larger particles.

 

 

Both are a type of Montmorillonite clay.  Oil Dry states "Bentonite (Calcium Montmorillonite type" while Safe T Sorb states "Calcined Montmorillonite clay".  I'm not scientific enough to know the difference if there is one.

Both seem equally durable to me when wet and rubbed between the fingers, remaining intact, comparing that to clay kitty litter I tested yesterday that turned to mush fairly easily

If both serve the intended purpose equally well, I have to say the oil dry is a better buy, based on what usable portion doesn't fall through the window screen.

If larger particle size makes a notable difference then Safe T Sorb might be worth the losses resulted from screening.

I'm particularly interested if anyone has had success in rooting cuttings in 100% of either and continued with fertigation of some sort?  That's what I'm about to try unless somebody talks me out of it with a bad report.

Charlie, Thanks for a nice scientific report :) I tried to root and keep the cuttings in a shoe box with a coco+Napa dry until the roots were about 1.5-2" long before potting them up. The cuttings really liked the mix (the lid was closed most of the time). The mix in the pots had about 15% of the Napa grains. It worked out quite well to keep the moisture more or less even ( with the mulch on top)

Greg mentioned a hydrocarbon odor coming from the NAPA floor dry product and that Calcined Clay products wouldn't have that issue.  The Safe T Sorb most definitely has a hydrocarbon odor when saturated, similar to kerosene.  I don't really have a way to burn it off and am afraid to use it.

The Oil Dry product has no offensive odors I can detect when wet.  I'm soaking some of it now in a cloth pot, set inside a 2.5 gallon glass jug with a weak fertigation solution.

 

I really don't understand the need for this floor dry. What is the goal here?

[QUOTE=brianm]I really don't understand the need for this floor dry. What is the goal here?[/QUOTE]

It's fun to experiment. :)

Ahhhhhhh got it#

It holds water but also creates air spaces, which should be ideal for rooting figs.

I am just a big believer in cocoa coir. My strike rate is much better this year.