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Subject: Another unknown, small black fig Replies: 156
Posted By: hoosierbanana Views: 9,602
 
Post #147 on this very thread. Simply amazing!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Herman2
Hi Fellows:
I had 2 ripe fruits From Jason Black fig,and I got only one to taste and look inside,the other the squirrels got it.
In my opinion,Jason unknown Black is not Ischia Black,but:
It is Negretta.
This is my conclusion i came at after i checked all information and pixies of Negretta.
It matches to a T.
Best Regards

Subject: Haygrove High Tunnels Replies: 5
Posted By: hoosierbanana Views: 153
 
This is from SARE, there should be plenty of keywords and clues to help move you along.

https://www.google.com/search?q=sare+grant+high+tunnel+fig+tree&oq=sare+grant+high+tunnel+fig+tree&aqs=chrome..69i57.7984j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#q=+high+tunnel+%22fig+trees%22+site:sare.org

Subject: Visit from USDA Replies: 38
Posted By: hoosierbanana Views: 1,294
 
The whole story is fake, everyone who believes it and posts a response helps sell the illusion. 

Subject: Visit from USDA Replies: 38
Posted By: hoosierbanana Views: 1,294
 
Everyone please take a hint from the 6,000+ other members who are not commenting. Imagine if we all spoke our minds all the time, no one would bother reading.

You seem like drunk fools challenging someone to a pissing contest in your own kitchen!

Subject: Foggers for SWD Replies: 10
Posted By: hoosierbanana Views: 118
 
The one in the video is made from "superabsorbent woven polypropylene". Earlier on they used water absorbent polymer crystals. 

Subject: Foggers for SWD Replies: 10
Posted By: hoosierbanana Views: 118
 
I could not find any premade discs like that for sale, so am planning to make them with old row cover, probably a round shape that is tied shut like a pouch rather than sewn. And the raspberry concentrate they used is really expensive so I am going to try brewing up some other things like mulberry and wineberry.

Subject: Foggers for SWD Replies: 10
Posted By: hoosierbanana Views: 118
 
Here is a good overview: http://horticulture.ahdb.org.uk/sites/default/files/SWD%20review.pdf 

One thing to notice in particular is that sprays are made more effective by adding sugar, which encourages adults to eat the spray. I read elsewhere that a small amount of brewer's yeast also makes sprays more attractive. That is the same concept as the attract and kill strategy, the difference is the pesticide/attractant is applied to the absorbent discs to prolong the amount of time it will be effective before drying out.

Subject: Foggers for SWD Replies: 10
Posted By: hoosierbanana Views: 118
 
Hi Nick, I am going to be deploying "attract and kill" baits this year to try and reduce the risk of an outbreak.

Subject: Black Beauty 10 (BB-10) Replies: 49
Posted By: hoosierbanana Views: 1,206
 
Tulip Mania did reach an absurd level, in fact it sent Holland into an economic depression. But that does not mean this is not the same concept, just different variables. For instance figs are propagated 10x faster, and they are not new or popular. So the bubbles blow up and burst much quicker, especially for varieties that are "mysterious" because they don't really interest experienced growers who are willing to pay but not willing to waste their time. 

Subject: Cuttings in water Replies: 8
Posted By: hoosierbanana Views: 336
 
Let it dry out more between waterings. Some changes that would make it dry out faster are increasing the temperature and air movement, but you need to be careful because that can also dry the tops out. The best way is to use a well aerated mix from the start and then it is harder to overwater. As the plant get bigger and has more leaves and roots it will dry up the extra water in a heavy mix by itself, it is when they are young that they are vulnerable because they are not using much water.

I think I remember somebody making air channels down the sides of containers with a chopstick or something but can't find it... If you have them in clear cups and can see where the roots are to avoid them you could push a pen or chopsick down to the bottom along the inside edge of the container in a few places to actually help air get down there. 

Subject: Cuttings in water Replies: 8
Posted By: hoosierbanana Views: 336
 
First off, cuttings can and do rot in water. Water holds much less oxygen than air does, and the warmer the water is the less oxygen it will hold. So hydroponic systems use bubblers and other methods to keep oxygen levels up or the roots will suffocate.

It is the same problem with overwatering, all of the oxygen in the water is used quickly and unless air can get into the mix after it drains the roots will suffocate and rot. 

Subject: Wilting of rooted cutting Replies: 34
Posted By: hoosierbanana Views: 502
 
Are the stems stiff like a healthy cutting or have they shriveled or gone rubbery? My guess is there is no turgor pressure at all in that cutting. Usually when the leaves wilt and dry out but stay attached it is a sign of total collapse, if it was less severe the cutting would drop them.

Subject: Wilting of rooted cutting Replies: 34
Posted By: hoosierbanana Views: 502
 
Your setup looks great. Just keep paying close attention to your plants needs and you will do fine. Temperature controls growth rate so a little warmer will speed the whole process up if you are itching to get them moved to larger containers, and vice-versa.

Subject: Wilting of rooted cutting Replies: 34
Posted By: hoosierbanana Views: 502
 
There is not a consensus on how to handle cuttings, but here is how I do it.

Make the initial cut to remove from the tree midway between nodes, leaving sections of exposed pith at first. Wipe off sap, wrap in plastic wrap bag them and store in the crisper. After storage, wash cuttings with soap and warm water to remove any residual sap and microorganisms that may be growing on it, soak overnight submerged in warm water if they have dried from a long storage period. Make a fresh cut below the bottom node, ideally grazing the bottom edge of the leaf scar, this removes any fungi that have begun to enter into the cutting during storage and removes almost all of the pith. 

Since you are rooting in coir you can see that most cuttings will root at the lowest point first, that is because plant hormones migrate there. If the roots form on a section with open pith there is a chance that microorganisms will begin to attack the wood through the open pith and cut off the flow of water to the leaves. If the cutting also has roots above that bottom section it can recover, but some cuttings only send out roots at the bottom. The best way to handle it is to remove the pith, the solid portion of wood through the node is much more resistant to pathogens. Large diameter cuttings have a smaller pith ratio and seem less vulnerable to this problem, or at least are better able to handle it because they have more wood.

https://www.ourfigs.com/forum/figs-home/1513-why-cut-just-below-the-bottom-node

Subject: Wilting of rooted cutting Replies: 34
Posted By: hoosierbanana Views: 502
 
There are plenty of roots showing in that cup, they are cut off from the top though because of rot. 

Were the cuttings trimmed to just below the bottom node? Could be a pathogen entering through the pith.

Subject: Wilting of rooted cutting Replies: 34
Posted By: hoosierbanana Views: 502
 
When a cutting collapses like that it is because the bottom has rotted.

Subject: Grafting Tool Replies: 22
Posted By: hoosierbanana Views: 376
 
Knives are dangerous if you don't already have experience.

A utility cutter will make the flat cuts needed for cleft and splice grafts, the cleft is the easiest. I haven't used them but some very experienced fruit growers do.
http://growingfruit.org/t/cleft-graft/4215/31


Subject: Idea for the ideal winter-safe fig wall (with picture) Replies: 3
Posted By: hoosierbanana Views: 172
 
Have you read of the historical use of fruit walls? They are much more massive than your plan and rely on espalier. 
http://www.lowtechmagazine.com/2015/12/fruit-walls-urban-farming.html

Your tree spacing is very close, they will form a hedge within a few years. My trees planted next to walls receive frost protection but during the coldest part of winter only the growths within a half meter of the wall seem to get any benefit.

Subject: Is it a new scam? Replies: 78
Posted By: hoosierbanana Views: 1,604
 
Mike we try to be polite here, throwing stones never ends well.

Subject: Half airlayering as a form of rooting cuttings Replies: 4
Posted By: hoosierbanana Views: 101
 
No worries, there are no terms for this sort of thing. 

Subject: Half airlayering as a form of rooting cuttings Replies: 4
Posted By: hoosierbanana Views: 101
 
You can actually cut an airlayer (that doesn't have enough roots) below the layer and set the cut end it in a glass of water to keep it from wilting. I accidentally chopped a tree that was growing and kept the top leaves on the green section happy like you would a cut flower and then got roots from wadding sphagnum moss and wrapping with plastic above the water line. When I read the title that is what this was about.

Subject: Is it a new scam? Replies: 78
Posted By: hoosierbanana Views: 1,604
 
I think it is that same longhorn beetle that is wiping out all of the figs on the island of Malta. I used to think that members here were responsible enough to handle something like that but now that they are importing to distribute I take that back.

What drives people to want exotic varieties from far off lands? Netflix series? Money? Loneliness? The people who brought the varieties we have today did it for love...

Anyway, for those of you who have not been around very long, the forums are not immune to scammers, although some people will publicly deny that to the bitter end, for some reason. But the reality is that people can say "I just broke the law and imported cuttings from the farthest corners of the earth" and there is nothing that the USDA can do about it. Why? Because this is the internet and people lie, seriously, it is a golden opportunity to rip people off. If you see someone talking about getting such and such from Europe they might be setting out bait for unsuspecting newbies such as yourself to message them and request a purchase. Ever wonder why some people seem to stick their noses into every thread to disclose that they have the topic variety?

More people are selling figs now and that is about it, overall interest has declined in the past 2 years, fewer new growers, less interesting conversations, less experience being shared overall. 

Just my 2c. I doubt many people will want to read it but it is a good thing to remember that how we behave will attract or repel certain types of people and that will shape our future.

Subject: Is it a new scam? Replies: 78
Posted By: hoosierbanana Views: 1,604
 
Who is the source of the cuttings though? And who wrote the description?

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/291944578813

Subject: When Do Figs Become Ever-Hardy in Zone 6 Replies: 56
Posted By: hoosierbanana Views: 771
 
Here you go guys.
http://www.planetfig.com/articles/fareng2589.html

Subject: question on cuttings Replies: 16
Posted By: hoosierbanana Views: 389
 
Thanks Chuck, sorry to hear about your cuttings, I know the feeling.

Subject: When Do Figs Become Ever-Hardy in Zone 6 Replies: 56
Posted By: hoosierbanana Views: 771
 
Freezing can kill a tree with green growth because it is full of water, but one that stopped growing sooner and is lignified will be fine. Only fine roots will be damaged by light freezing, and they regrow quickly in the spring. Prolonged freezing temperatures can cause containers to "freeze dry", especially fabric containers.

But if if the container is totally soaked (like a container left outside where the drainage holes are frozen shut and melting snow or rain fills it up, or overwatered) it will turn into a solid block of ice and can kill large roots like Doug said. This can kill even hardier container trees like apples or blueberries.

Subject: question on cuttings Replies: 16
Posted By: hoosierbanana Views: 389
 
The food saver bags are gas impermeable and don't let the cuttings breathe, they will eventually "pickle" the cuttings during storage. The small amount of oxygen in the bag will be used the cuttings and they will suffocate, then bacteria that do not need oxygen (like the type used to make yogurt and pickles) will begin to digest the cuttings and causing the bag to puff up with CO2. It is a no-go, cuttings are alive and still need a small amount of oxygen for biological function for their metabolisms: respiration

The solution to the condensation comes from understanding the different facets of the issue:

1. Condensation forms due to a differential in temperature, it is a simple concept but becomes complex when talking about cuttings. Think of a cold drink on a hot day, condensation forms on the outside of the cup from water vapor in the air contacting the cold surface and turning back into a liquid. That is simple.

2. Now think of cuttings in a bag, when the bag is put in the fridge the bag itself becomes colder than the air inside for a time, causing condensation on the inside surface of the bag (like condensation sometimes forms inside windows in winter). Next, when the temperature of the air inside the bag gets warmer from opening and closing the fridge, adding warm foods, taking the bag out, the fridge cycling etc. any more humidity given off by the cuttings will condense on their surface because they are colder than the air.

3. The cycle repeats until there is a pool of water collected in the bag (which can help mold and bacteria to grow) and the cuttings have dried out. 

The solution: to stop water vapor from leaving the cuttings, and condensation from forming on their surface they need to be wrapped tightly in a gas permeable plastic (plastic wrap or normal plastic bags). Now, when the air inside the bag warms condensation can only form on the outside of the plastic wrap, because there is no air in contact with the cuttings themselves. And without the cuttings giving off water vapor less condensation will form inside of the bag overall, and the cuttings do not dry out. It has been done by members here for many years because it works, it is just not explained often. Wrapping cuttings individually is best, but the small amount of air left when wrapping a small bundle will only cause a small amount of condensation to form and still prevent the cuttings from drying out.

p.s. If you don't want to wrap the cuttings... leave the bag open when you first put it in the fridge, then close it after the cuttings have cooled. This prevents most condensation from forming during initial cooling, but the air inside of the bag will still allow moisture to escape from the cuttings and condense when the bag warms/cools as described above. Keeping the bag in the crisper will help minimize that because it stays a more constant temperature than the rest of the fridge. You should periodically remove water from the bag if it builds up enough to be getting the cuttings wet, take them out and quickly wipe them and the inside of the bag down dry (setting them on the counter when they are still cold will cause them to become wetter, like a cold drink on a hot day) and then put back in the fridge (with the bag open at first remember).

Subject: Looking for the following varieties... Replies: 20
Posted By: hoosierbanana Views: 591
 
What to call it (or any persistent caprifig outside of wasp territory) is a little more difficult. Smyrna caprifigs (short styled female flowers) are reported to be edible if there is no wasp and they are sprayed with growth hormones to stimulate ripening, it is the wasp eggs that cause the flowers to be dry. A persistent caprifig therefore will be edible if there is no wasp. To actually be an "edible persistent caprifig" it must have long styled female flowers, which the wasp cannot lay eggs in, so it will be edible even when visited by the wasp.

There is still lots to learn about this, edible persistent caprifigs genetics are not explained by any research I have seen... the conventional wisdom is that the gene for stamens is tightly linked to the gene for short styles female flowers.

Subject: A pollination mystery in September Replies: 19
Posted By: hoosierbanana Views: 318
 
Quote:
 Even in the total absence of pollination, oviposition by the wasp prevents untimely dropping of syconia and ensures development of the figs to final ripening. The viability and maturation of the unpollinated syconia, due to occupation by wasps, is therefore of vital importance to the annual life cycle of the insects. The alternative stimulus to maturation of the syconia, namely fertilisation, is never available to mamme and profichi and only infrequently to mammoni. Fruits which do not produce any seeds and whose development is induced solely by inhabitation by wasps have been named by Condit (1947) 'stimulatively parthenocarpic'

Subject: A pollination mystery in September Replies: 19
Posted By: hoosierbanana Views: 318
 
Another possibility is the wasp and pollen came from a hybrid fig, or different species.

[image] 

Subject: Are Roots Left Behind After Potting Good for Anything? Replies: 11
Posted By: hoosierbanana Views: 256
 
You can mark them and leave till spring for grafting. 

Subject: A Big Thank You to the Community Replies: 16
Posted By: hoosierbanana Views: 626
 
Hold the phone, Azores Dark is an Etna type...

Subject: Ponzi scheme Replies: 11
Posted By: hoosierbanana Views: 564
 
Only one sold? Seems like the only people who even want Ponte Tresa are exceptionally well informed, intelligent, and would never, ever, ever, ever get involved in a ponzi scheme ;) 

Subject: eBay Scammer Alert Replies: 26
Posted By: hoosierbanana Views: 684
 
That was not directed at you Devin, just the overall theme that has been promoted for many years. 

Subject: eBay Scammer Alert Replies: 26
Posted By: hoosierbanana Views: 684
 
You guys are crazy, forum membership is not correlated to integrity, stop scaring off the sane people!

Subject: Hardiness of some varieties Replies: 15
Posted By: hoosierbanana Views: 344
 
Hi Ed. Gene Hosey said Negretta was his hardiest variety.

I have tried most of your list in ground here, although only a couple years for most, and some like Atreano were planted in a poor location (where all other varieties are unproductive) so it invalidated the results. Valle Negra is affected badly by FMV, Chiapetta is planted in a frost pocket, an unknown I think is Tiger seems to have individual tree issues or something, not much growth and no fruit, but that is not typical for the variety.

LdA has been ripening for 10 days after top kill last winter. Nero 600 m is close behind. RdB sets figs late, or not at all, after top kill or hard pruning.

Subject: Fig Tasting Video: MBVS & Letizia Comparison Replies: 19
Posted By: hoosierbanana Views: 816
 
Old news Randy...

http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/3531680/olympian-fig

Subject: Storing fig cuttings using a Vacuum food sealer ! Replies: 40
Posted By: hoosierbanana Views: 1,431
 
Don't do it Mike, cuttings are alive and need gas exchange. The plastic in those bags does not allow them to get air, they use oxygen and give off CO2 just like us during respiration. It is at such a slow rate that enough gas can pass through a regular ziploc or plastic wrap but the vac sealers will kill your cuttings.

Subject: My 2016 season figs Replies: 56
Posted By: hoosierbanana Views: 1,971
 
The anthocyanins in figs might be acting as a ph indicator? Does not explain why the seeds sink though, weird and exciting stuff!

Subject: First Black Madeira and CDDG Replies: 38
Posted By: hoosierbanana Views: 773
 
I am sorry Ryan, I am really not here to beat on anyone. I have seen lots of changes to the fig world and I don't like many of them but you are not responsible. I haven't seen the facebook discussion so please understand how this was all confusing to me. I doubt I want to see it.

If it really is that good then maybe he is right and it looks completely different from ripening somewhat out of season in the south during hot weather. I don't really believe it either but it would not be the first time I was wrong.

Subject: First Black Madeira and CDDG Replies: 38
Posted By: hoosierbanana Views: 773
 
What unit were you in? 

3/325 here.

Subject: First Black Madeira and CDDG Replies: 38
Posted By: hoosierbanana Views: 773
 
I am sorry for your financial situation Ryan. But this discussion taking place publicly could harm Herman2's sales, and he like all of us also has hardships. 

Subject: First Black Madeira and CDDG Replies: 38
Posted By: hoosierbanana Views: 773
 
Quote:
I did not mention his name in public until he stepped forth :


You did use his initials. 

Subject: First Black Madeira and CDDG Replies: 38
Posted By: hoosierbanana Views: 773
 
Well I certainly don't know the situation completely, since discussions are spread out around various places. I have not seen any of these pictures you talk about, but I have seen pictures that Herman2 posted on eBay of a proper looking CdDG. Perhaps Herman2 did mix something up, honest mistakes do happen, it is not his fault that it was "shared" for a profit past that point. 

Quote:
 It may very well be wrong but I don't think we need to let him speak, I know a lot of my cddg figs have thick necks until they ripen. 
 

Maybe I misunderstood your comment here. I took it to mean that Herman2 should not be involved in this discussion, and that was reinforced by more direct/open accusations elsewhere, where Herman2 may not see them. So I don't see that as respectful in the slightest. 

You will have plenty of support no doubt from others who also borrow the reputation of others for a profit!


Subject: First Black Madeira and CDDG Replies: 38
Posted By: hoosierbanana Views: 773
 
Here are the fruits from 10 different MBVS trees all from the same mother and treated the same, so it is not necessarily the weather but the moods or particular circumstances of the trees themselves! 
mbvs.jpg 

Herman2- Could you show a picture of your Col de Dame Gris? It is not spelled out here on this forum but apparently on "facebook" and ourfigs the allegation has been made that all of the CdDG you have distributed are not true to type, absurd to me, but believable to new growers/potential customers who do not know any better. Of course you would not be responsible for what a new seller (Quackmaster) distributes, even if they did purchase cuttings from you it does not prove anything, they could have bought 5 from you and sold 10 by relabeling another variety!

Quackmaster- we are all personally responsible for what we do, blaming someone else and dragging them through the mud because of a mistake YOU made is childish and dishonest.



Subject: waiting.... Replies: 11
Posted By: hoosierbanana Views: 239
 
Hi CJ, each variety is different like you say, and the attachment strength of the stem, color, and firmness all can vary from year to year or tree to tree, branch to branch. My favorite trick with the Etna types like you have there is to give them a slight twist and look at the neck, if wrinkles form it means the skin has begun drying. The figs will not get any sweeter past that point, although if it is hot and dry leaving them will let them dry more and condense the sugars. Wasps will really start going after them once they begin drying though. 

Hey Charlie, I poke the stems sometimes when I am feeling unsure, it is not foolproof but most of the time if the small hole does not ooze then the stem won't after being picked either.

Subject: Rossa Rotonda VS Ronde De Bordeaux Replies: 20
Posted By: hoosierbanana Views: 322
 

Italian 258 does have a real name out there somewhere. In the US the situation is very convoluted because of the way all of the different varieties were brought here. Italian 258 is popular because many growers have trialed it over long periods and had success. There was absolutely no marketing involved in the name Italian 258, the name was lost. The Paradisio's have different names because they carried them from the old country still attached, presumably different regions of Italy have their own idea of what paradise is ;)

Funny you mention the Mt. Etnas because my question about planting arrangement is related to my own trials of them. There is quite a bit of variation from tree to tree every year, even branch to branch in some cases. 

IMG_20160909_142058_158.jpg 

All of the Etna fruits above came from plants with the same mother, they have varying levels of winter damage and therefore different growth rates so even though they are the same age and planted right next to one another they fruit sooner or later than each other, have necks or don't, thin peels or thick, darker or lighter etc. Take a good long gander. Of course there is argument!

I had a chef taste several different Etna types and she picked up very subtle differences between them and I do too but only sometimes, some have slight leaf shape differences that seem to be consistent and are more apparent, like Sal's and MBVS for example. If I do go through with the trial I may just keep the results to myself, since some people will be dissapointed however it turns out. I saw a plant on eBay being sold as a "must have" with an obscure name from a simple list that had no authoratative information from a relaible source for the buyer to ever verify they have been sold the correct variety, it has an Etna leaf but the seller neither declared that or showed pictures of fruit or the mother. So yes you are right it is confusing and some people could be quite genuine while others take advantage.

I have a small fleet of RdBs in various situations and have seen more variation than you have between the 2 "varieties". At least with Bayernfeige there is a claim made, it is supposed to be more cold hardy than the usual English Brown Turkey. Well, how a patent office could verify that I don't know, but you could easily fake a hardiness trial by selecting trees that are more hardened or softer. In Lubera's situation they make no claims, so nothing to confirm or deny.



Subject: Rossa Rotonda VS Ronde De Bordeaux Replies: 20
Posted By: hoosierbanana Views: 322
 
Blackmoore:
Temp

Lubera:
Gustissimo® Rossa Rotonda

Subject: Rossa Rotonda VS Ronde De Bordeaux Replies: 20
Posted By: hoosierbanana Views: 322
 
All the same, the names mean they originated from Lubera.

Subject: Rossa Rotonda VS Ronde De Bordeaux Replies: 20
Posted By: hoosierbanana Views: 322
 
Vinny, I just asked because there was a well founded assertion made years ago that all of Lubera's varieties are simply renamed plants direct from Mercato Verde. In fact they are still "stealing" some pictures from Mercato Verde. Of course they must be one of Mercato Verde''s best customers so perhaps they do have permission, but why would they be allowed if the plants were not purchased from them. Their website is very convincing, but if they have an exclusive and have tested these thoroughly why not have their own pictures?