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Subject: wintering figs zone 5 Replies: 14
Posted By: FigTrees2013 Views: 301
 
for my potted plants, I just bring them in the cellar. Given how much more of a yield I get from my in-ground trees (as long as we have a warm summer), I get some 2x4s and make a square frame around my trees. then I put a plywood square on top, and wrap the frame with old moving blankets and insulation. Don't let anything touch the branches -- any moisture will suffocate them and cause mold. Then I cover it with a tarp, leaving a little bit at the bottom open (but protected with a screen to keep out mice). A guy in my neighborhood has 2x 50+ year old trees with massive trunks and he does something pretty similar, so I'm just following the expert. He gets 5 gallon pails of figs every couple of days from just 2 trees! 

Subject: Forcing dormancy of mature plants for winter storage before snow, slush and freeze Replies: 14
Posted By: FigTrees2013 Views: 223
 
It's less than ideal, but I've done something similar in Boston. I've found it is best to not take off the leaves though. After a week of no light they will fall off on their own. It's better to let the plant bring he sugars ans sap back into the wood naturally. As long as it's cool and the wood is already hardening off at the growth tips you should be fine with them in the garage. Make sure they don't get any light because they will only be in a light dormancy and can get really leggy really fast. 

Subject: dying rdb: help save this guy Replies: 13
Posted By: FigTrees2013 Views: 332
 
Might be not enough air for the roots. Roots perform respiration like leaves and need oxygen to do so. Perhaps cutting the bottle open and allowing some of the moisture to leave might help. 

Subject: Why are leaves turning yellow Replies: 7
Posted By: FigTrees2013 Views: 252
 
Get iron tone. It works great! 

Subject: Pruning suggestions for VERRRRY LEGGY fig Replies: 14
Posted By: FigTrees2013 Views: 435
 
They were reaching for indirect light in the basement. Sometimes I get this problem as well. Those branches will not be strong enough to bare fruit this year. I agree with the first two responders - cut everything back. I would definitely even cut back the hard wood so that there are no branches thinner than a pencil in thickness. The tree will be better for it. When new green shoots appear again, they will be thicker and they will be stronger. Only let them get to be 6 inches long before you break them off. 

Subject: Shocked Tree from Repotting - Please Help Replies: 12
Posted By: FigTrees2013 Views: 232
 
How big was the original pot? 15 gallons is a large pot. It could be from too much water. As Joe Morle from figtrees.net says: You have to gradually increase pot size. What are you gonna do, bathe an infant in a bathtub or in a sink? Does a little kid need a big shoe or a small shoe? Could be too much water being held in the soil - the roots can only take up so much. Be careful, you can drown trees! 

Subject: To pinch or not to pinch? Replies: 4
Posted By: FigTrees2013 Views: 132
 
If you pinch you will get more side growth. Don't worry, figs are tough!

Subject: My baby passed ( split trunk) Replies: 18
Posted By: FigTrees2013 Views: 287
 
I don't think that the wood will fill in naturally since wood grows from the outer layers, not the inner ones. New growth always comes from underneath the bark, rather than the center of the tree. I really think it's advisable that you try to close the split. A wedge graft might work -- it's certainly an interesting idea.You may also want to encourage suckers to grow up from the root base and start over with the trunk? Or maybe air layer the whole tree, by trying to root it right above the split? Use a gallon plastic jug?


Subject: Share 1 tip you've learned that you wish someone had told you in the beginning Replies: 43
Posted By: FigTrees2013 Views: 1,080
 
Don't over-complicate propagation. It happens naturally. Look, listen, learn. Observe the natural world and follow what you see. While it can speed things up, you do not need high tech equipment or store brand products. Sand and Soil will do the trick.  

Subject: Keep moving Fig tree in container Replies: 8
Posted By: FigTrees2013 Views: 241
 
Honestly probably worth the investment of trimming some trees if they are causing the shade... 

Subject: Grafted figs... Replies: 6
Posted By: FigTrees2013 Views: 257
 
Start by bringing them out into the sun a few hours a day. Gradually work your way up. Maybe 1 hour for a few days, then 2, then 3, after a week or so they should be well enough acclimated. 

Subject: My baby passed ( split trunk) Replies: 18
Posted By: FigTrees2013 Views: 287
 
You don't want to girdle it with a tie. You could try getting a bolt and drilling a hole through the trunk (this will never heal, but if it works the tree will grow around the bolt and will eventually become embedded in the trunk). Get two large washers and put one on either side of the trunk. On the end side of the bolt, attach a washer and tighten until the tree comes back together. Essentially sandwich the trunk between two washers and tighten until it comes back together. You can eventually loosen it a bit or remove it and fill the smaller hole. Wax the exterior so that it doesn't dry out.

Subject: Air layering panic Replies: 15
Posted By: FigTrees2013 Views: 354
 
It definitely works better when the tree is actively growing. Rooting needs naturally produced plant hormone called auxins, which I believe flow to the wound site easier when the sap is flowing. I haven't tried girdling branches before, but just make sure that the soil doesn't dry out. Auxins are present in other things as well, and may promote more growth, some say that willow leaves have a high concentration of the hormones and that a willow leaf tea will help promote growth. 

Subject: Here we GROW! Replies: 12
Posted By: FigTrees2013 Views: 393
 
Hi Mike, thanks for your response. I am in Boston, zone 6B, so not too different a climate from yours. I usually bring my potted trees into the basement, and have a few in the ground. Been experimenting the past few years trying to figure out the best way to protect the in ground trees. Some of my older Italian neighbors think I might cover too much (leaves, straw, blankets, and tarps), and the trees suffocate, causing some die back. They allege that it is not the cold, but the wind and water that kills the trees and that they actually need some cold air to breathe. The yield is so much superior when they are in the ground -- if you can get the over-wintering method right up here with all our snow and ice! 

Subject: Nursery trees without breba figs? Replies: 18
Posted By: FigTrees2013 Views: 334
 
I am only hypothesizing, but here's my best guess: Fertilize the trees with bone meal, avoid any high nitrogen fertilizers. After 2-3 inches of green growth (3-4 leaves) pinch out the bud tip on every branch on the tree to stop any more leaves from developing. Water well throughout the season. I think that with the cooler climates you have to treat the trees like potted trees -- minimize green growth and do everything you can to force the fruit. 

Subject: Chipmunks? Replies: 5
Posted By: FigTrees2013 Views: 129
 
Welcome! Also, if there is some animal eating your figs try filling a small container with bleach and leaving it out where they live - obviously taking care to avoid spilling it near any plants. You can partially bury a quart container filled halfway, or tuck it under a porch, I put it under my sheds. The smell of the chemicals drives all wildlife away -- great for skunks, rabbits, chipmunks, possums, etc

Subject: Here we GROW! Replies: 12
Posted By: FigTrees2013 Views: 393
 
Fantastic breba on the Adriatic. Very nice set-up. Do you leave your trees in there for the winter with no additional wrapping? Is it heated in the winter? 

Subject: Regarding winter covering- arbor? Replies: 2
Posted By: FigTrees2013 Views: 93
 
Hi everyone, 
Like some others from the colder zones, I experienced some pretty heavy die back this spring. I'm already considering better techniques for next winter, and think that getting things set up over the summer is a great way to make the fall overwintering process much easier. I remember seeing on here (I believe) a thread about someone who had a permanent arbor around his/her fig trees. If I recall correctly, the owner would cover the entire arbor during the winter to protect the trees but the openness still allowed for good air circulation and avoided having any branches come into contact with plastic or insulation, etc. I tried searching for the topic on the site using some keywords but didn't have any luck. Has anyone else heard of this method or does anyone remember the post/ know the individual who came up with the idea? As I'm getting more trees in the ground I wonder if building such a structure might be easier (and more successful) than individually wrapping all the trees. 

Thanks for any info

Subject: What to do about dieback Replies: 9
Posted By: FigTrees2013 Views: 241
 
Tennesseefig, may I ask where you are from? I'm in Boston and also experienced heavy die back, despite thorough wrapping.Trunks seem okay but lost a lot of branches, no leafing out yet. Barry, it seems to me that many People from New York to Maine have experienced hard die back. I am going to leave my trees alone now until late may. Leaving on dead wood won't harm them, but a shoot may appear higher up than you would expect if you don't prune yet. 

Subject: Unwrapped Inground Fig Trees Today in NJ! Replies: 8
Posted By: FigTrees2013 Views: 96
 
They look fantastic! May I ask your method of wrapping them? When I uncovered mine just a bit farther north I had some mold problems. 

Subject: De-Bagging Cuttings - I just had to know Replies: 13
Posted By: FigTrees2013 Views: 497
 
Let me begin by saying that I really appreciate your thoroughness. The concern I have about the sealed bag method is mold and rot. Also, it's important to remember that roots need oxygen -- it's not uncommon for gardeners to literally drown their plants in water. I've been growing figs for about 7 years now and I have had varying degrees of luck with several methods. I suppose I am biased, because I learned everything I know about fig trees from old school, off-the-boat Italian immigrants who have been growing figs in the Northeast for over forty years. Simply put: I think the best way to root a general (not unusual/difficult variety) cutting, is simply to score the base of the cutting lightly (until you see green), put in in a peat moss/garden soil/sand mixture, keep moist and out of direct sunlight, and wait. If you want you can dust on some root tone before sticking them in pots. Old-school propagation takes time.  I do this outside, in an unheated greenhouse that warms up in the day but cools back down at night, the cuttings sit under the bench where I grow my tomatoes from seeds. Temperature fluctuates dramatically, but the young plants come in strong. Letting things go naturally has been close to 90% successful for me. Of 90 cuttings I attempted to root last year over 80 took and are now growing in one gallon pots. Getting the cuttings to root can take about 6 weeks, and as hard as it is, it's best to just keep them watered and otherwise forget about them. All the temperature control, moisture control, etc. methods are fascinating to me, and I love the passion that people show for their cuttings, but I prefer the simpler, old-fashioned way. I don't grow many especially rare varieties, but I think I have a great selection of about a dozen varieties. 

Subject: Nyc container figs breaking dormancy Replies: 8
Posted By: FigTrees2013 Views: 215
 
I have some in-ground trees in Boston that I uncovered two weeks ago. There was mold damage from the very warm winter we had, I don't regret opening them up. Now I just throw moving quilts over them at night if it's gonna be below 30. I believe that figs can take down to 28 degrees before there heavy die back. They are tough, they'll be okay. 

Subject: Root pruning now? Replies: 2
Posted By: FigTrees2013 Views: 122
 
Yes, you can root prune, even if the buds start to break. Use a pruning saw to take off the bottom few inches of the root ball. Additionally, you can remove about 1/3 of the roots from one side of the root ball, but do not cut all sides of the root ball. If you cut back the roots on one side, the remaining parts will nourish the tree while new roots grow. Just like when pruning branches, it's advisable to avoid removing more than 1/3 of the growth. 

Subject: How do you get fig tree trunk to grow thicker? Replies: 15
Posted By: FigTrees2013 Views: 565
 
You should pinch back green growth on potted trees after about 6 inches of growth, pinch back on in ground trees after about a foot - foot and a half. If you sacrifice on the scale of the crop a bit, you will get a stronger tree. 

Subject: Is chichen manure good for fig tree as fertilizer Replies: 37
Posted By: FigTrees2013 Views: 733
 
If you have composted it or diluted it with water, manure is fine. Do not use it fresh. Also be aware that chicken manure has a very high nitrogen content, so you will get a lot of green growth (good for producing wood for cuttings, bad for trying to get fruit). I think bone meal is better for potted trees. 

Subject: How do I grow fig cuttings? Replies: 19
Posted By: FigTrees2013 Views: 397
 
I don't do anything especially scientific. Stick the branches in the ground and wait -- like the old timers did it. I learned to propagate from my old Italian immigrant neighbors. Most of the cuttings take when you let them go naturally - no heat, no moisture control, no rooting chemical. Not all will take, so it doesn't work if you have a very specific cutting you want to root and only have a limited amount of that scion. When i put the cuttings in garden soil and just make sure they get water, usually about 70% take. It's a more laid-back method, but you don't get that 90%+ success rate. The method you use depends on what you are looking to do 

Subject: Pruning Q for potted figs Replies: 9
Posted By: FigTrees2013 Views: 256
 
Tyro hit the nail on the head. Symmetry or, at minimum, balance is the key to good pruning. There is no real instruction manual for how to do it. Remove branches that dip below 10 and 2 on a clock, remove diseased wood, remove crossing branches, and that's about it for guidelines. You know you have a good pruning structure if the branches thicken up and you have a wine-glass shaped branching structure for your tree. Don't be afraid to experiment! 

Subject: Time to uncover trees? Replies: 13
Posted By: FigTrees2013 Views: 313
 
I've used moving blankets the past few years, they really are a great insulator. Especially after the 2013-4 and 2014-5 brutal winters we had up here, I was glad to take the extra precaution. A ton of people lost their trees both years, but mine were warmer than I was inside! Uncovering the trees is a tricky process - too soon and it can be too cold, too late and the trees have mold damage. I'm hoping that the PVC pipe helped reduce the likelihood of mold. But I suppose that the uncertainty is what makes gardening interesting and fun! 

Subject: Fig Pole Replies: 16
Posted By: FigTrees2013 Views: 429
 
I would leave the leaves that are there so thy can make energy for the rest of the plant. Pinch out the bud tip and then give the tree some high nitrogen fertilizer. You should get lateral growth. 

Subject: Time to uncover trees? Replies: 13
Posted By: FigTrees2013 Views: 313
 
Thanks for the contributions to the post everyone. To avoid too much moisture inside I tried running a PVC pipe up into the wrapped tree so that cool air could flow in at night. We shall see if it worked when I uncover them. I also took care to make sure that I used brand new tarps that wouldn't allow any water in. We are still getting 30 degree temps at night so I think I will wait another week or so before uncovering them. It does seem that an early spring is coming to the east coast, however. 

Subject: Is this cutting dormant? I think it's definitely not fresh Replies: 8
Posted By: FigTrees2013 Views: 313
 
Take a knife and scratch away some bark in the middle. You should come in contact with the outer part of the live cambium vasculature (it will be green). If there is no green it may be dead. 

Subject: Time to uncover trees? Replies: 13
Posted By: FigTrees2013 Views: 313
 
I was wondering if anyone in zones 6b-7a has uncovered their trees yet. March is off to a warm start for us in Boston and the 10 day forecast looks like the night temperatures won't drop below freezing. Might wait a couple more weeks until we have a more reliable forecast for the end of the month... 

Subject: Planting cuttings... Replies: 9
Posted By: FigTrees2013 Views: 250
 
Great photos. What varieties are these?


Subject: Cuttings offer on eBay. Replies: 8
Posted By: FigTrees2013 Views: 323
 
Do any of these put out a Breba crop?

Subject: More pruning, photos, advice? Replies: 18
Posted By: FigTrees2013 Views: 426
 
There is no need to spray your tree. A little rust is fine and won't severely harm your crop. I avoid any synthetic chemical treatments as much as possible. Your tree looks well pruned, keep the structure open so that rust (a fungus) won't form. In terms of suckers, just cut them out as they appear. 

Subject: Refrigerating Cuttings Replies: 14
Posted By: FigTrees2013 Views: 411
 
I wouldn't use bleach. You can use 1 tablespoon baking soda per gallon per gallon of water if you really want, though I don't think it's necessary. Every couple of weeks just open the bag, move the cuttings a bit, put in a dry paper towel maybe.Mine are usually fine after several months. Make sure they are dry before putting them in the bag! 

Subject: Refrigerating Cuttings Replies: 14
Posted By: FigTrees2013 Views: 411
 
I've been seeing a lot of posts about putting fig trees in shelter or covering them for winter protection on here lately, and just had a reminder for people - If you want to save your cuttings, put them in the refrigerator over the winter, they keep fantastic and root very successfully in the spring! 

I don't know if i saw this suggestion on here a few years ago or heard it in person, but it definitely works well! 

Subject: Wrapping Trees for Winter yet? Replies: 9
Posted By: FigTrees2013 Views: 236
 
The biggest thing is keeping the water out. You can use a pcv pipe coming out from the bottom for ventilation, just fasten a screen at the end so mice don't crawl inside and eat the bark of the tree. There'll be some rot in the spring, but you can cut it away. Figs that are winterized always need to be pruned again in the spring to clean them up a bit. 

Subject: first tree wrapped a new way Replies: 15
Posted By: FigTrees2013 Views: 330
 
You can use a PVC pipe to allow the air to circulate down into the cavity. I wrapped my trees similarly just yesterday. Scroll to the bottom of this page and watch the video - a true master of gardening shares some of his fig knowledge: http://www.theitaliangardenproject.com/visit-bruno-garofalo.html 


Subject: Wrapping Trees for Winter yet? Replies: 9
Posted By: FigTrees2013 Views: 236
 
Hello all! 
I'm located in Boston and have had several trees in the ground for a few years now, and have been growing figs for several years. As I'm prepping to cover my trees for winter this weekend/early next week, I was wondering if anyone in colder zones has already started covering their trees for winter. If you have, what is your technique? I cover mine with burlap, leaves and straw, moving quilts, and tarps - the trees are warmer than me in the winter! 


Subject: Rooting cutting for 1st time Replies: 9
Posted By: FigTrees2013 Views: 356
 
I admire your precision and technique and am sure it will pay off; you'll experiment and find what works for you. I've found over the past several years of rooting cuttings however, that when you can get the cuttings in relative abundance, it's often much less stressful and far less expensive to simply stick the scion in some seedling mix or soft garden soil mixture (compost and sand is my mix even and wait for it to begin to grow. Call me old fashioned, but that's how the old gardeners I learned from showed me! You'd be surprised at the success rate -- upwards of 75%. I've found that giving the cuttings time to grow on their own allows for trees to become more viable -- roots and shoots develop together. It might take an extra season for your trees to produce fruit, but strong scions will survive and become excellent trees. I don't mean to diminish your technique at all, just wanted to add my two cents! 

Subject: Pricing Fig Trees Replies: 2
Posted By: FigTrees2013 Views: 265
 
Hello all, 
I'm an infrequent user of this forum, but think it's a great resource and appreciate all the information the community puts up. It seems that some of the greatest Fig enthusiasts regularly post here, and I was hoping to get some feedback from members on pricing. 

I've recently made several dozen new trees --  they are in gallon pots, and growing nicely. I have a variety of older Italian figs -- not often do the names appear here, though they may well be aliases for the varieties everyone knows and loves. Anyhow, next spring I am planning on selling these new trees and was wondering if there is a consensus on fair pricing -- for lets say an average tree, not a particularly rare variety. 

I'm estimating that the trees will be 12-24 inches tall in these gallon containers, well rooted and established enough to set fruit. Any thoughts? 

Subject: Help diagnose red spots on the fig leaves? Replies: 1
Posted By: FigTrees2013 Views: 241
 
You can use neem oil or copper fungicide to treat rust. Honestly, my trees get some of it every year and I just try to improve ventilation, sunlight, and water more carefully (i.e. avoid getting the leaves wet). I've found that removing the severely damaged leaves is a good way to treat it without spraying. Avoid pulling off the leaves though; you don't want to damage the fruit node. You can club off the leaf were the stem attaches to the leaf. Then the little piece of stem that remains will dry out and fall off on its own. Hope this helps 

Subject: Leaf spot diagnosis Replies: 15
Posted By: FigTrees2013 Views: 550
 
If it is rust you can cut off the leaves and give the plants a nitrogen heavy fertilizer to promote new growth. Otherwise, try to get the plants some more potassium (the 3rd number of the n-p-k on fertilizer labels), as that helps boost the plants ability to resist disease. You can try a baking soda spray too. I've had rust before, but your photos show more black pots than I've experienced myself before. 

Subject: Any in-ground budding in NY / NJ? Replies: 12
Posted By: FigTrees2013 Views: 504
 
I'm from Boston and my trees started putting out small buds a few weeks ago. Some of them got damaged pretty badly because of the winter, even though I wrapped them well. There was a lot of dieback at the tips of the branches. One tree I cut back about 2 feet to the main trunk and only now are some small shoots beginning to pop out at the base of the trunk. A few others fared somewhat better. Use a good nitrogen fertilizer for in ground trees to boost that early season growth! Diluted chicken manure in water works great

Subject: Organic Fertilizer Replies: 13
Posted By: FigTrees2013 Views: 602
 
Henry, 
I'm assuming you are growing your trees in pots if you are in NH? I grow trees in pots and in the ground in Boston and have had trees for about 7 years now. 
If you are growing in pots, you want to give your plants a low nitrogen fertilizer. Nitrogen makes trees grow a lot of foliage. If you're growing in pots, however, the plant only has a limited capacity to grow roots to support such growth. If you limit the amount of green growth, you will have more successful harvests. After a green shoot puts out 5-6 leaves I like to pinch the growth tip at the end to prevent any more leaves from developing on that shoot. The figs start to appear shortly after pinching.  

You probably already know how to read the fertilizer numbers, but just in case you aren't sure: The 3 numbers on both synthetic and organic fertilizers respectively correlate to Nitrogen-Phosphorus-Potassium (N-P-K). I like to give my trees Bone Meal. I think its 0-10-0. The phosphorus helps with root and fruit development. Seaweed based products have good amounts of Potassium, which helps for disease, but figs don't really have too many disease problems. You can give them wood ash and a little lime if you want to maintain the pH but add more potassium too. If the leaves start to get a little yellow, you can use an iron supplement. Most importantly, keep potted trees well watered. I'm not exactly sure how the sea products line up with phosphorus, but I think that it's probably the most important of the 3 major elements for potted trees. 

If you are growing the trees in the ground you don't need to be as contentious about the types of fertilizers you are using. 

Subject: Temporary overnight protection for inground tree Replies: 3
Posted By: FigTrees2013 Views: 198
 
You can put a stake in the ground right next to the trunk and then drape a sheet down over the tree. Or fill some 5 gallon buckets with hot water and leave them there, they will help keep it warm. Mid to Upper 30s aren't really much of a concern though. As long as it doesn't get to around 28 or lower you should be fine. I'm leaving mine as they are, uncovered, in Boston -- our low will be 38 F.

Subject: Can I save this tree? Replies: 10
Posted By: FigTrees2013 Views: 479
 
The tree should be fine. I've seen many trees die back like this. Scratch up the soil around the tree and make a bowl so that water stays near the center. Water it well, maybe add a high nitrogen fertilizer like diluted chicken manure or blood meal to the soil. Growth will come up from the roots or from the buds on the smaller branches. I advise against pruning anything significant until new growth appears. Be patient, it may take a few weeks. You can leave that trunk exposed, it's weathered enough already. 

Subject: My first air layer... Replies: 25
Posted By: FigTrees2013 Views: 996
 
If you have the patience for it air layering is definitely the way to go when it comes to making a new tree. Not only can you root much larger, already fruiting branches, but you have a virtually 100% success rate (unless the branch doesn't root, in which case you leave it as a branch...). Nicely done for your first air layering!

Subject: Differentiating Fig Type by Scion characteristics Replies: 5
Posted By: FigTrees2013 Views: 394
 
That's what I assumed. I tried to see if there was any significant difference between my trees that might even suggest whether they produce black or white figs. I couldn't make any concrete deductions, perhaps given the sample of varieties is small (I have about a dozen varieties).