Uncle Wills is spot on! I will touch a little on growing them in pots as that's all I have. I have learned some things the hard way mostly regarding to the use of sulfur. I burned several plants in pots using sulfur and will not ever use it again. One reason is I use rain water only on my blues and the use of sulfur with rain water requires a very light hand when applying sulfur. I never could figure out how much to use. It was always a guessing game. Then I quit using it all together and focused on having the right Ph soil mix to begin with and only use rain water as it doesn't change the Ph of potting soil. If it does its very slow, like several years slow! I haven't had to check the Ph of my soil in 2 years now. My plants haven't exhibited any reasons to do so.
For potting, I've resorted to a mix of 50-60% pine bark mulch, 30-40% sphagnum peat moss and 10-20% sifted perlite. The perlite isn't a must but I do feel it helps to keep the mix from compacting over time. One thing to note is the peat must be pre-wetted before its mixed up. Once its wet, it should NEVER completely dry out. It becomes hydrophobic when dry and will actually shed water instead of absorb it.
That brings me to another point! Constant watering! I believe that most the problems people run into with blueberries other than soil Ph is not understanding how much water a potted blueberry requires. Especially a mature plant with a large canopy. I think its almost impossible to over water a potted blueberry plant unless its put into a huge pot with a tiny root ball or if the pot has terrible drainage. One thing I've done is to place bricks under my pots so it drains quickly and increases air flow in the potting soil. If the temp is over 85 degrees and the pot is in full sun it needs a daily soaking. 95 degrees and over, daily soaking, maybe even 2 soaks if new growth is limp by 2:00 in the afternoon. Some varieties like Sweetcrisp will have limp/wilting new growth even if the potting soil is wet. I have found that a mid day shower to the canopy will perk up wilting Sweetcrisp growth even on the hottest days. That being said, Sweetcrisp will wilt with moist soil and perk right back up that evening like nothing happened. Its probably more stressful for the grower than the plant. Some varieties just do that.
For fertilizer I've been fortunate to have access to Microlife Fertilizer. Its made here in Houston and only distributed locally from what I know. Its got all the stuff my plants need including the endo/ecto mycorrhizae fungi. Its all I've ever used on all my potted fruit trees and in ground trees with the exception of citrus. I use a fert specifically for citrus but they do get doses of Microlife as well. I've never used ammonium sulfate but Fignutty and Wills swear by it and the proof is in the puddin! Microlife is all organic which is nice but not why I use it and its a slow release so I apply it every 2 months to my potted plants during the growing season. I use it because it works and I have no reason to try any thing else at this point.
I agree with Fignutty as well that Springhigh and Sweetcrisp are the two best tasting varieties going right now. At least from all the varieties that I've trialed. I will put a plug in for Sunshine Blue as well. Its a great tasting berry but best of all, its the latest ripening Southern High Bush I've trialed so it really extends the season with great fruit! I will have Sunshine as long as I'm growing blues. There are a bunch of other varieties that I haven't tried but if they were true standouts I probably would have heard about them by now. One other thing I've come to realize is you cant rely on nursery descriptions of blues. According to them they are all great and productive when that's not really the case. I learned more from Fignutty, Wills and garden forum than any nursery description.
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