Register  |   | 
 
Encanto Farms Nursery > Topics > Search > All posts by ANDREASC
 
 


The search returned 27 posts

Only find topics started by ANDREASC
   
Topics  |  Posts
Subject: Figs of Cyprus Replies: 47
Posted By: ANDREASC Views: 1,943
 
well perhaps unknown to many from the US, considering also the distance, but Cyprus is a  lost figgin paradise...albeit not carrying an exotic name such as 'madeira', it is a place with similar climate, perhaps even better for figs... its almost the same distance from equator (i.e. loootttss of sun), but without the ocean micro-climate, thus dryer. the level of fructose/syrup accumulating in ripe figs, especially the ones not being watered, cannot be easily described

Subject: Healthy Dwarf fig tree not producing fruit Replies: 36
Posted By: ANDREASC Views: 487
 
hi pino,

initially i thought that u had to have same age/thickness to have a successful chipgraft

but gradually and after many tests, i m successful with chipgrafts where there is variation of age/thickness.. provided u manage to give good cambium contact... this is easier to do, as u can appreciate, when u have same age/thickness of the branch and of the scion (cutting). cutting cant be more than 1y old, mostly for practical reasons since its difficult to remove a piece from the 2y wood which is hardened
i ve succesfully done

scion 1y to branch 1y
scion 1y to branch 2,3,4,5y(again, provided u can give good cambium contact)
scion 1y to branch of this year (i.e. green shoot)
scion this year (i.e. green shoot) to branch of this year (i.e. green shoot)

hope i ve helped

a

Subject: Healthy Dwarf fig tree not producing fruit Replies: 36
Posted By: ANDREASC Views: 487
 
hello,

the tree looks healthy meaning that the root system is adapted to ur climate and its good rootstock for grafting. so if i was u:

1. water the tree 1 day before grafting and water it normally after grafting also e.g. weekly. spring/summer grafting can be done april-august, the earliest the better since it will give time to new graft to grow.. but now its doable also...

2. i can see 2 diagonal branches. remove all growth everywhere, except of the two branches. dont touch the 2 branches at all. find fresh cuttings from 2 varieties suitable for ur climate (others in this forum can consult u better on this).

the cuttings must be taken from fruiting branches,not suckers or else the new tree it ll take years to crop...find healthy swollen (not open/ leafing) buds and do chip grafts 1m from ground(or lower if u want a lower future trunk, albeit higher is better, its where the juices move)  ..  for how to chip graft there are many topics: e.g see reply 17 in topic (http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post/chipbud-grafting-4743760?highlight=chip+grafts&pid=1290694496). this is very simple. its like removing a bud from ur tree and replacing it with an identical chip of the new variety... any good knife can do, just careful with the fingers

after u do the chip graft (better use parafilm grafting tape, which will insulate it and protect it from rain/water/mist/sun) and u secure it tightly with rubber band, make an aluminium foil cup and kinda shade the chip graft to protect it from excessive sunlight which will dry it before the union heals

3.in about 2-3 weeks, the bud will open/leaf out. now remove foil and prune 2cm above the graft union, to have the plant sending all its energy onto ur 2 buds. remove also the leaves  and buds below the union, since u want this segment to become the trunk of ur new tree and u want all energy on ur new shoots

4.done...next year u ll have fruits


hope i ve helped. it may sound complicated but in essence its really simple pure logic

Subject: The thickest cutting you can root/ take for grafting Replies: 11
Posted By: ANDREASC Views: 332
 
 a slightly swollen bud has worked best for me... otherwise i would prefer a closed one instead of the one u r showing. cause this ones has more chances to  dry up and fall before the graft union occurs...

so i prefer to have a solid union first , say in 14-20 days and then prune all the rest vegetation to have the 'energy' sent to my preferred bud

Subject: The thickest cutting you can root/ take for grafting Replies: 11
Posted By: ANDREASC Views: 332
 
hello.

instead of rooting i would attempt graft if u have a healthy tree, in a state ready to be grafted.. i.e. awaken with sap flowing

chip graft is ideal for figs if u know how/when to do it... mid spring is the time, just wrap tightly with nylon/ plastic  (avoid to cover the bud ), and optimally use aluminum foil around it loosely for a month or so to protect from direct sun..

i ve done chip graft for as thick as 1.5cm, i dont believe another cm will be a pbm, just be really really careful with ur hands when u try to cut the chip..

Subject: Identify this fig Replies: 11
Posted By: ANDREASC Views: 360
 
hello shur. i believe its a vardiko fig u are holding there. one of the best common figs of cyprus. u know our countries are only some kilometres apart and the description and pic seems identical to my figs.look up in the forum 'figs of cyprus' or vardiko fig for more pics

regards
a

Subject: Transplanting the darn thing without losing my sleep Replies: 24
Posted By: ANDREASC Views: 634
 
smatthew and cis4elk thx for your replies..

anyone has any view on the water needs the tree may have? i mean once every 2 weeks sounds reasonable for a dormant tree yes?

Subject: Transplanting the darn thing without losing my sleep Replies: 24
Posted By: ANDREASC Views: 634
 

hello friends,

goodmorning actually. its 10:15 here:)

mission accomplished.. i ve did the transplanting  of my multifigtree this saturday.

so after i dug it out with us much as roots possible (was bareroot in shade for about an hour), i applied grafting paste on big root cuts. in the pre-opened hole i put 4 bags of 50L potting soil around the roots and then normal soil on top and stepped it very well.. then i watered/flooded very very well 2-3 times this saturday and shaked the tree trunk to let the water go everywhere and have any excess trapped air surface. on sunday i watered with 4 buckets of water with diluted funcicide and root stimulator/antistress and i ll do the same monthly from now on. 


questions:  :)

1. how often do u think i should now water it? it is still dormant. was thinking every 2 weeks till it leafs out, point at which i will water weekly and destroy excessive budding (will allow only the grafts to bud) to have limited growth thus limited water loss from leaves. as to give say 4 months for root creation. so i ll give the tree march, april, may and june to focus on rooting. from july i ll leave it alone to leaf out till october. i dont care much about harvesting for this first year. just want it to take well at its new home. perhaps i ll also destroy most figs that may be formed as to not pull the tree's strength. we want the strength to go to roots right...

2. since i ll control leafing, i m thinking to white wash the whole tree (except the grafted buds) with 50% diluted water based paint.. to protect from sunburns, and overheating/loss of moisture... u think this is a good idea? less sun exposure may also delay budding right..?

thx
andreas

20160227_104130_resized.jpg   

20160227_121459_resized.jpg 






Subject: Transplanting the darn thing without losing my sleep Replies: 24
Posted By: ANDREASC Views: 634
 
hello everyone. another few questions if anyone with experience can assist. 1. i ve seen some debate on the timing of transplanting. some say fall some say early spring. well now is kinda end winter early spring here in cyprus and i m willing to take the risk since now its dormant...
does anyone thing i better avoid it till next fall. i dont like the idea of letting it grow bigger for another season..

2.more important debate.bare root or not? i may need to remove all soil or 80-90% due to weight. in fact i m thinking to flush the soil away with water to expose the roots before cutting as much as possible rootball(will use grafting paste on cut roots and then cover with a wet sheet) so i m going full bare root for at least 1-2hours till i replant.that guy on the vid went bare root but of course he doesnt show the end result.. u think this is not doable? thx ...andreas

Subject: Factors That End Winter Dormancy Replies: 23
Posted By: ANDREASC Views: 541
 
excellent work baumgrenze. so u ve crammed 4 trees in the area i would normally give to only one... i m thinking to follow ur space management though.. like semibonzai...how old are the trees and how many varieties each? from ur experience, these two factors 1.keeping the tree small and 2.multigrafting several varieties onto same tree, have they affected the quality/size of crop?

Subject: Transplanting the darn thing without losing my sleep Replies: 24
Posted By: ANDREASC Views: 634
 
hi jerry.. sorry my fault.. when i said compost i meant the black potting soil we usually buy from nurseries etc... this is perfect to stimulate rooting i reckon...

Subject: Transplanting the darn thing without losing my sleep Replies: 24
Posted By: ANDREASC Views: 634
 
thx again hoosier...

so, if i get this right..

now, whats done, its done, with multi grafting... even if FMV is in the plant now, its development, symptoms on leaves, effects on crop, and finally its disolution of even cure to some extent, is subject to a lot of conditions from now on...

what i now can do is to provide for and nourish the tree and help it be as a vigorous grower as the variety/kind will allow, correct?... so:

1. first its making a correct transplant, with us much root ball as possible(thinking 1-1.20m diameter). i cannot carry its own soil, i ll have to shake 70% off the roots but will add compost and water thoroughly the first days to avoid air pockets under rootball. will try not to go too down on the current waterline.. -20cm i m thinking..
2. pruning and perhaps constrainig the new shoots as to not have huge cannopy especially for this first year, and watering say every week and twice in summers, for these next 2 seasons
3. ferilising, pesticides, and supplements for antistress and root creation (e.g. seasol or similar) will be put periodically
4. rope it down to support and protect it

anything else i m forgeting?  :)

thx 
a

Subject: Transplanting the darn thing without losing my sleep Replies: 24
Posted By: ANDREASC Views: 634
 
hi hoossierbanana,

thx for the reply..

so this FMV dude is not so bad after all is it now.. why the big fuss then?  is it perhaps just a matter of us over-reacting and over-emphasizing this in our minds?

i mean if it doesnt affect fructification (size, number, quality), and it is self healing when the tree is established, or even if u can choping it away, since it doesnt go downwards, just upwards as u say (i though it was like our viruses.. affecting all body)...

from what i read all trees may have some form of it, that will show symptoms just depending on the conditions..

so at the end of the day its just a matter of prudent growing practices and keeping the plant healthy, watering, nurishing,etc, no?

is it just that mite transmitting it? biting the leaves here and there?... i have now put cuttings of 20 varieties  in a bucket of water, to get moisture for a week till i use the bag growing method.. could water disperse more the virus therein?

Subject: Transplanting the darn thing without losing my sleep Replies: 24
Posted By: ANDREASC Views: 634
 
Hello,

thank you all for your input/advice and your cheering comments:) i think i ve done myself some good grafting work here, but hey, time will show cause if i end up with an FMV infested tree that produces crop of multiple varieties yet of poorer quality then its not worth it right?

i will try transplant it anyways, mostly following common sense, and conditionally to the actual constraints of project, e.g. a bobcat cannot approach the tree as it is now... thus handwork mostly and hand-carrying few meters to truck...will prune, dig out us much roots as possible, wrap with burplap to keep moist and rush to the next location to have it transplanted on compost..will try not to change depth/waterline, max -20cm, neither direction (e.g north.. will use a compass) .  then i ll focus on good watering for the next 1-2 years and give the necessary root creating supplements..

BACK TO WHETHER THIS 'PIGGY-BANK TREE' WAS A GOOD IDEA, and especially with respect to possible FMV. obviously i cant be sure what each cutting may have carried... the initial idea was to save the varieties on a single protected 'reserve tree',  just in case rooting failed (which it did due to overwatering:) ), and indeed i ve saved the varieties, but the question now arises, if the whole tree got FMV (DOES IT BTW?is it like a virus overwhelms our body?) from only one unhealthy cutting out of the 30-40 grafted, then if i cut a new end cutting now to try re-root it will also carry FMV? thus the new tree will also produce inferior quality crop? thus i have not actually saved the variety, just managed to produce a spoiled version of it forever?

what is your view on this?

thx
andreas

Subject: Transplanting the darn thing without losing my sleep Replies: 24
Posted By: ANDREASC Views: 634
 
Hello all,

Here we are with a multi fig tree grafting project that i would like to share with you guys in exchange perhaps for your experienced views on the next phase of this project, namely,TRANSPLANTING THE DARN THING WITHOUT LOSING MY SLEEP:)

last spring i ve started working/grafting on this unknown fig tree, experimenting on grafting techniques.. as u can see from the pics, experimenting was a success and i ve now resulted into my super-precious (for me and most probably for any of u figfanatics:)) 'reserve tree'.. it now has more than 40 varieties grafted onto it.. every end branch is a separate variety, and i ve also grafted some more varieties onto lateral branches as u can see... i intent to shape/train the tree and any other shoots budding this year... provided i manage to transplant it without killing it:)

Capture.PNG 


2015-07-03 13.30.35_resized.jpg 




2015-08-24 17.41.26_resized_1.jpg 

2015-09-26 14.42.00_resized.jpg 
20160109_133345_resized.jpg 




THE CHALLENGE: now i want to transplant it to a better location, with the minimum risk to the tree and perhaps with as less setback for the tree as possible...the tree is not located in an ideal place, thus making the project harder...

now, i ve seen some videos on youtube, but there seems not to be a consensus in methodology used,


this guy pulls it with its soil, and replants it immediately


this guy pulls all soil away from rootball and says at 1:24 that he lets the rootball dry for a night (IS THIS PRUDENT?), so as for end of roots to dry and roots not to rot.. then he transplants next day and waters with seasol seaweed/ anti stress extract (an important step)


THE PLAN (and its parameters):
1. the tree trunk is about 3 inches. first of all lets agree that the timing now that the tree is dormant is right and that at the end i'll water with seasol as antistress and as root developer till april that the tree will start budding:)  i cant start now spading a circle around the tree to promote root growth.. i think i m too late for that..and anyway i prefer to simplify the project and do it same day...since the location is not ideal and the tree with rootball (with soil) iis gonna be very heavy, i intent to chope/shavel a meter diameter circle around the tree, and remove/shake (I SUPPOSE ITS BETTER TO AVOID WASHING IT AWAY?) almost all soil... i ll apply pruning/grafting paste  on the  big cut roots (needs 2-3 hours for paste to harden) and then i ll wrap the soil-less rootball with burlap , load on truck carefully and take it to new location... i ll transplant it same day, on a hole opened earlier...compost will be added under and over the rootball and more importantly i ll water with seasol... and then use ropes to tie, as well as shape downwards the end branches, thus lowering and giving good open-vase shape to the tree..

has anyone done this before and perhaps can answer my questions highlighted above in red?? do u think transplanting its doable? any suggestions or ideas about my plan?

thx,

andreas

Subject: Figs of Cyprus Replies: 47
Posted By: ANDREASC Views: 1,943
 
hi pino...

well, the late ripeners are the vazanata, thats y they also called himoniatika-χειμωνιάτικα i.e. of winter...

but their flesh are more of an amber/caramel/slightly pinkish colour...

urs is more towards red... which reminds me napolitana negra especially since i know it is indeed cultivated/found in cy and it is one of the few real dark figs here in cy...it ripens mid july start august but can go till october.... it is much sweeter than vazanata and smaller... so odds tilt towards this...

if that aint it,, well, i guess it is one of those cyprus blacks:) or cypress black as u say:)

hope that helps

Attached Images
png Capture.PNG (122092, 40 views)

Subject: Figs of Cyprus Replies: 47
Posted By: ANDREASC Views: 1,943
 
Hi Grant,

 thx for the change of topic...was hoping u would not get offended.. us messing around ur post:)

well, the eggplant vegetable,  is translated as 'vazAni' βαζάνι in cy (and 'melintzAna' μελιντζάνα in greek btw), melanzana rings a bell  btw? so the fig 'vazanato' singular, vazanata in plural, is named as such due to its colour which is similar to an eggplant. the shape is round though...

i have attached a pic in my earliest post with one vardiko and one vazanato next to each other, also with their cross-section...

 and i also attach here two screenshots from a report (on cultivation of figs) of the agricultural ministry of cyprus ...

if u read greek u can see also the text... fig matures from mid august till end october... could go further to mid nov if u ask me...its caramel/pink/reddish inside.. but fig has several variations here in the island, and generally people tend to name all big black figs as vazanata.. if u dont do gene's analysis u can never be certain of what u have at hand...


btw i prefer vardika, vazanata tend to be kinda watery.. 

Attached Images
png Capture1.PNG (96570, 40 views)
png Capture2.PNG (118261, 41 views)

Subject: Figs of Cyprus Replies: 47
Posted By: ANDREASC Views: 1,943
 
here's another green/pink cy fig.. it was introduced to me as being the elusive 'smyrneika' fig.. but i doubt it, cause no caprifigs were established near the tree and dont know if the  wasp could find its way to this tree.. perhaps it is vasilika melissi that dont need caprification?

ektor/giorgo would u know any better ?:)

Attached Images
jpeg 2015-06-27_12.00.40.jpg (75717, 37 views)
jpeg 2015-08-23_12.36.23.jpg (59714, 36 views)
jpeg 2015-08-23_12.36.33.jpg (55892, 38 views)
jpeg 2015-08-23_12.37.29.jpg (65393, 39 views)

Subject: Figs of Cyprus Replies: 47
Posted By: ANDREASC Views: 1,943
 
hello all.. perhaps this post ought to be renamed by Grant or the Administrators as:  'FIGS OF CYPRUS' then... if Grant is ok with that...as a tribute to cyprus figs:)

Ektor/Giorgo, excellent pictures ... i have obtained cuttings of the first four cultivars of ur photo, as well as 'aspra prodromou' and was wondering how their crop looks like... are these pictures taken by u... in a different case may i ask ur source?

i may have access to cuttings from all the varieties u posted by the way..do u have any size/taste indication ? i.e. which of the ones u posted is the best in ur opinion. excluding vazanata and vardika....

Figalot: sorry cant identify ur fig (looks like kiladonika perhaps?), but what i know is that in cyprus other varieties are also systematically (some also in plantations) produced, such as, kadota (has brebas), gentile bianco (has brebas), brogiotto blanko (has brebas), san pietro(has brebas and second crop needs pollination), napolitana negra,the smyrneika figs (smyrna type- needs pollination), a variety called tillirisima, a variety called delounika, etc...

perhaps ektor/george may have some pics of these varieties...

Subject: Figs of Cyprus Replies: 47
Posted By: ANDREASC Views: 1,943
 
few pics as promised.. now everyone loves pictures aint that right:)

u r welcome Grant..

 so a small comentary.

 donno if the root of the word vardika/valtika comes from greek... but 'valtos' (tone on 'a') is the swamp

 and 'vardos' (again tone on 'a'), is an old word for 'singer'.. u know medieval times...

of course it can purely drive form bardacik figs... but hey.. who knows..

 the important thing is to taste good:)

Attached Images
jpeg 20151011_203520.jpg (41239, 65 views)
jpeg 20151011_203550.jpg (38816, 64 views)

Subject: Figs of Cyprus Replies: 47
Posted By: ANDREASC Views: 1,943
 
20151011_203530.jpg 

Subject: Figs of Cyprus Replies: 47
Posted By: ANDREASC Views: 1,943
 
20151010_195157.jpg 

Subject: Figs of Cyprus Replies: 47
Posted By: ANDREASC Views: 1,943
 
20151010_195044 - Copy.jpg 

Subject: Figs of Cyprus Replies: 47
Posted By: ANDREASC Views: 1,943
 
2015-09-01 19.26.59.jpg 

Subject: Figs of Cyprus Replies: 47
Posted By: ANDREASC Views: 1,943
 
hello far away friends of this lovely fig community. have received precious knowledge amongst u guys... so i salute u all..greetings from the island of cyprus. u must be refering to vartika/vardika/valtika figs. slight differences in name may occur in different locations/cities...and imagine we r only a drop in the ocean...


vardika may perhaps be a relative of the bardacik fig... if not the same...

so yes vardika is one of the best cypriot figs. figs split if u water the tree in summer.has one long crop from mid july till mid nov.it is green with red interior and with extra refined sweetness... sun makes miracles here...late in august they become sweeter than honey...literally.. diabetics stay away... i ll try to attach few pics tomorrow but have to resize cause my mob pics seem to be larger than 1mb... till then, my regards..andreas

Subject: Bag Rooting Techniques Replies: 108
Posted By: ANDREASC Views: 4,084
 
excellent
thx again lolita. and happy new year btw.
just to clarify. when i speak of plastic transparent storage box i mean that this will replace the big plastic bag u use as humidity chamber. i will place the small baggies therein,thus easier to open and aerate at will

anyways i shall proceed with the technique asap. i ve got in the fridge cuttings of 20 top greek varieties i got from greece last july. i hope that 6months will not prove too much for them

regards
andreas

Subject: Bag Rooting Techniques Replies: 108
Posted By: ANDREASC Views: 4,084
 
Hello,

very nice technique..

 i intent to use transparent plastic storage boxes instead of the plastic bag. i know that each cutting has its own pace but lets simplify a bit as for u to clarify something pls in terms of timing of the project. pls correct me if you disagree in the steps i intent to follow:

i will, in general lines, follow ur steps...

lets say i start today with the baggies without hormones etc...and use the closed box (in a dark room). i shall aerate every 2 days

once i see roots and leaves (lets say in 3-4 weeks) i shall cover the small bags with newspaper and put the whole box closed again under the lights. i shall still aerate every 2 days, till they have 6 leaves and good roots (lets say in another 2 weeks) time at which i should be opening gradually to have them acclimatized. then out they go from the box but still under the lights. only then u mist lets say once per 2-days, until they fill the bag with roots, (lets say in another 3 weeks). then u re-pot, give water monthly and mist weekly and have them again under lights till march? whereby u put them in a shady place with good ventilation. and in april u gradually put them in the sun and water weekly?

thats how it works time-wise?

thanks

andreas