Originally Posted by LeanderFig
Just a few pics of some of my babies. This is my first try at rooting cuttings, so I'm happy so far.

Greek Church

RDB
 
Florea

Originally Posted by bamafig
Maybe try root pruning these small starts to retard their growth without killing them. It could buy you some time till spring.

Originally Posted by jrdewhirst
The perils of success.  I started cuttings last year, late Dec-Jan.  When leaves sprouted, I put them under lights. My main lesson was that the more you supply bigger pots and water, the bigger the plants will grow.  By April, I had plants >2' high filling out 3g pots.  Prepare for a lack of space.  Then be ready to acclimate the plants to outside conditions whenever you move them out.  I'd suggest a week in deep shape then a week in mottled shade before full sun.

I'd definitely up-pot the cuttings.  Then if you want, you can somewhat retard growth by not up-potting again when they get root-bound and/or buy somewhat restricting watering.

p.s.  Did I learn my lesson?  No.  I've got more cuttings now.

Originally Posted by Sas
Most retailer moved them off the shelves over here too. As soon as it starts to warm up, you'll have more choices. In the next couple of months I would check at Walmart Canada also. One thing I don't like to do us up pot too soon. I've lost a couple of plants that way. My goal is minimum root disturbance when up potting.

Originally Posted by Sas
Hi joe, I never used lights except to grow tomatoes indoor. All my rooted figs stay by the window until it gets safe enough to take outside and keep outside. That's when I move them to 7 gallon SIPs if I want super fast growth using the moisture control potting mix from Home Depot. By adding some perlite to the mixture, you will have to add water more often, but get better results. I stopped adding perlite. I use Osmocote and some gardening lime when I up pot. In your area, you should get better results in pots since root heating might not be as large a problem for you.

Originally Posted by johnny_k
Joe,

I'm using a 50w LED to provide light to grow through the winter- but, i am continuously adding more to my set up. I think i will need 100w before the winter is over.  Although the Pres-elect would not approve, i buy my LEDs, power supplies and current regulators from China. So, i am thinking 50w for rooting and 100w once potted up.  It takes 3 weeks to a month for arrival, but it comes at 1/10th the cost.  i also know several folks who use 50w LED flood lights.  i made the mistake of building my cabinet way too small and short. once the weather turns warm enough to get in the garage, i'll be constructing a taller cabinet/shelving to make it through the winter.  i also severely underestimated the growth of figs.  i can send you more info if you are interested in building, but i do think the 50w floods are the best option- you dont have to be concerned with heat dissipation- i just discovered them too late. 

here is an example of a 50w for $20 USD and free shipping.  you may find it less expensive from China, this one is located in Ohio. 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10W-20W-30W-50W-Cool-or-Warm-White-LED-Flood-Light-FloodLigh-Outdoor-NEW-UB-/122270260301?var=&hash=item1c77e01c4d:m:mPiKK_axochSgodi5qgJ8rQ

Also, i would suggest the cool white for growing.  The warm white has more red than the cool white, which is more blue.  


At least this is a good problem to have, right?  

johnny

Originally Posted by DevIsgro
Those look good, I have seen them on plants I bought before but necsd considered making any. I guess I only would make them. for permanent rooted trees. No sense wasting time making them for cuttings that might not take. Thanks for sharing.

Originally Posted by Sas
Bump, still hoping for this issue to be resolved.

Wrote the following for further simplicity. Hope that you don't mind Joe.

Go to http://postimg.org register an account for free. Then click on chose images icon to find photo from your device and upload it.

Click Done. When photo uploads click on thumbnail for forums to copy then paste in your post.

You will have to copy the URL for forum at postimg and then paste over here.
When you click on the thumbnail it will copy it automatically then you come over here and paste it.

There are several urls that you can copy and paste when you click on share, the one that says thumbnail for forum will show the photo in the post and not the link.

Originally Posted by PeterC
week 6, the one 2nd from right, front, I may lose, just started to wilt, perhaps the soil is too damp (definitely not wet) or some other reason.........

Originally Posted by EDoukas
Guys - I have tried EVERYTHING out there, and probably more than you may have heard of, to get rid of fungus gnats for several years. Some things actually made a dent, some things were pointless, but nothing absolutely got rid of the gnats.  I finally found the way to do so that worked 100% for me. Like really, 100%. NOT ONE GNAT.  I posted about it on YouTube and I've been sharing it with as many people as I can who have this issue because I know the frustration very well.

Here it is, and let me know how if you go for it.

Originally Posted by DaveL
TJ. Thanks for teaching this old dog a new trick.

Originally Posted by johnny_k
TJ,

Not counting the two figs, to the left is an African Spear Plant, Sansevieria Cylindrica.  i thinned a plant i have growing in my house.

The middle is a cana lily from seed taken from an old variety in Serbin, Texas.

to the far right are lemon from seeds.  i know they wont grow true, but i thought id see what comes out, just for fun with the kids.  

Anyway, i want to thank you, again; you saved my entire crop of figs this year.  


So my most valuable lesson learned is : WATER

- restrain the urge to water every day or two; only water when your plants show you they need it.

- Yellowing roots is the first indicator of too much water. 

- Less water means faster root growth.  Since my watering can is on restriction, i have seen a great improvement in root growth, the color, the size and the speed of growth of the roots. I'm not out of the woods yet, i still have some yellow roots, but the growth around them is doing very well. 

- Have begun to practice watering from the bottom.  will work as long as i have them in trays.  I flood my trays to about 1/8" of water, just enough to get some moisture in there.  

- I add a dilute fertilizer to the water, in a 1-.5-1 ratio.

Originally Posted by Fig_Hunter


Aahhh... very nice view indeed! You are living the dream my friend most people only get to see only on vacations, those Figs looks delicious too.

Originally Posted by KK


They love landing in my white wine

Originally Posted by johnny_k
Yes! Dang!  I left off Toronto Joe, who correctly diagnosed my one sick cutting. TJ, it was definitely root rot from over watering- you saved me from losing my entire crop.  Thank you, in particular, very much.

Originally Posted by haslamhulme
Oh thank God,I'm not the only one lol,this thread makes me feel slightly better.Funnily enough it's not necessarily the rooting I'm having trouble with,it's the bit after that lol.Ive been using small cups(like drink dispenser at the office) size,2 nodes normally,50/50 coco coir mix,humidity box,no additional lights next to radiator.I seem to be swinging between over and under watering,the worst bit is AFTER you have roots and leaves,up pot it out off the box and a few days later they just seem to top themselves.Ive also had a bit of a problem with mould on some cuttings this week. Obituaries Ali Pasha 17/22 (don't ask hahaha) Black Mission 3/3 Conadria 2/4 Alma 2/3 Precoce de Dalmatie 1/1 White Adriatic 1/1 Goutte d'or 1/1 Nova Unk 4/4 Green Ischia 0/3 Falls Gold 0/4 Celese 0/2 Solution I'm trying=bigger cups(quart/pint)higher ratio of perlite to coco(sorta 60/40-70/30 ish),3 nodes minimum,melting holes for drainage with hot kebab skewer in the base and sides(used to poke rough holes in the bottoms only).I also oven baked my coco coir (whist Mrs was out lol)to try and kill bacteria/fungus etc as I think that's where the recent mould problem came from and disinfected the humidity bin.Gonna start fresh. Some varieties seem to just want to live,Falls gold,Green Ischia and Celese are the stars,Mission was doing great and then just died overnight pretty much,over water/under water I have no idea,very disappointing.Biggest looser Ali Pasha,my fault,first variety I tried rooting indoors,switched methods half way through and then let them dry out and then probably over waters them lol so can't blame anyone but myself.The single cuttings were thin and green so rotted easier.Nova Unk just had no will to live,I've rooted about a dozen or more this year of this variety,none make it,it's vigorous and has stupid thin roots and skinny huge internodes but it's my only true 'wild' Unk so I'm gonna keep trying. Good luck with your rooting folks,remember sterility+ Good drainage= life,good thick hardwood cuttings certainly make it easier as well,lessons learnt the hard way