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2 Litre Pop bottle & Perlite... simple rooting

I would like to second what TorontoJoe has asked,same issue.Thr only way I have found that seems to work most times is to pot up with the same mix(% coir to % perlite ) I use for rooting,any higher coir % seems to result in rot.If using straight perlite what mix would you pot that up in to?

I potted up from straight perlite to 50/50 Fafard Seedling Mix and perlite - still got rot. I used minimal water too. I can't imagine what could be lighter and faster draining...This what got me back to straight Fafard Seedling Mix. Initial rooting success rate is not as high but they survive the pot-up...

I just started some more in straight perlite - Hoping for a bit of intel before they're ready to move on up...


The problem with any method of rooting a cutting and potting it up is that those young roots are fragile and break easy. They also seem to be susceptible to transplant shock. I haven't used straight perlite much since I posted this. For those doing it I would let that root mass get as big as possible (fill the entire cup) before potting it up so that the roots are not as disturbed.
Tyler

After my cuttings are rooted, they go directly into a mixture of soil and perlite in the approximate ratio of 30% soil & 70% perlite.
Thereafter the next move is when I get a good root mass - moving to either a 1 gal pot or a slightly larger pot(depending on root ball size).
I maintain high humidity at all times and I do not start rooting early. Best timing for me to start rooting is March as I prefer to move
Plants to benefit from outdoor sun.

I've been rooting this way for longer than I've been alive!   ;)

I wait until the roots are ay least 1.5", more is better.  If the roots are turning yellow I'll poke a few holes in the bag to make sure they don't rot.  If they're headed toward brown I get the cutting out and in to soil.  I pot into promix HP with bio-myco moistened then squeezed out and fluffed up.  If you're using minimal moisture in your potting soil then I wonder if it's the way you unpot then repot.  I do one of 2 things.  If I have an individual cutting I slit the bag while holding it upside down.  The roots are stronger in this position and less likely to break.  As the bag opens up, perlite slowly falls out and just the pieces stuck to the root are left.  That way there's less weight hanging on the roots.  They go into a pot that's already waiting for them with moist pro-mix in it.  The soil looks like a bowl with the bottom of the soil about 2 inches from the bottom of the pot.  I hold the cutting in place and gently let the soil fill in around the roots.  I do not tamp the soil down.  The roots need those air spaces in the soil to survive.  For the first few weeks I either water it from the bottom or use a spray bottle to water it from the top.  Both of these methods preserve the air spaces in the soil.

If I'm doing a mass rooting in a sterlite box with holes drilled in the bottom then I put that in a bigger box, run the hose over the perlite and keep the box with the cuttings submerged.  The perlite will float en masse, taking the cuttings with them.  I scoop off the perlite that floats free and keep doing this until some cuttings float free (they turn horizontal.)  I get all the perlite that's floating free away from the cutting so I don't pick up any excess weight.  I support the cutting and lift it out.  I never touch the perlite stuck to the roots.  It goes right into the pot with the roots and will help provide air spaces.  I have the pot waiting just like in the other scenario.

I bury the whole cutting in perlite except the very tip is always visible.  I do not use a humidity dome.  That way the leaves bud out into dry air and they're used to it from the start.  No transitioning needed and no plant loss from leaves that couldn't adapt quickly enough.

The bio are beneficial bacteria that eat the pathogens that thrive in overly wet, air deprived places that rot roots.  The myco are fungi that combine with the roots to make them more healthy.  I think they're very important.

One of the crucial things about perlite is that you have to get rid of the dust.  If you don't it will cling to the cutting, attract water and drown the cutting.  I usually rinse through a colander to minimize dust.

Also, if I'm using a soda bottle or gas station cup I never squeeze it.  Before I put the cutting in I slit down one side then across the bottom just past the center.  Then I tape it to look like it was.  When it's time to free the cutting I gently untape with the seam up.  Once the tape is off I'll hold it upside down and slowly let the perlite fall away while holding the cutting or put it in water and float the cutting out.

For me rooting typically takes 3 weeks.  I scrape the bark and add clonex.  Having the majority root by 3 weeks means I can float out a whole box and 75% will have rooted and the rest get re-evaluated and if not rotted, rerooted.

I am fairly new here (and to fig growing in general) and mostly lurk and learn. Rooting from cuttings has always interested me, yet feels intimidating!
This is a thread I will definitely follow and try!

Since I never really introduced myself,...I am in the Columbus,Ohio area and started a handful of fig plants last spring. I have been lurking on this site the entire time gathering tips and information. (I thank everyone for sharing their knowledge!) My plants are in a dark ,root celler-ish  part of the basement, and I'm anxiously awaiting spring and hoping they are surviving! (So far they seem to be ok)

 Francie  :)

Quote:
Originally Posted by rcantor
I bury the whole cutting in perlite except the very tip is always visible.  I do not use a humidity dome.  That way the leaves bud out into dry air and they're used to it from the start.  No transitioning needed and no plant loss from leaves that couldn't adapt quickly enough.

.


Very nice info!! I have used perlite with mixed results. I have a couple of questions.
1. How much of the tip is visible? 1 inch?
2. The burried cutting will develop any leaves? Probably not, but I have to ask.
3. You do the rooting process in a dark place? Or light doesn't affect since the cutting is burried?
4. Do you use any specific amount of water vs the amount of perlite? Like how many ounces of water per cup of perlite?
Thanks in advance!

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