Topics

A hard question for figgers

Which combination of fig top cutting dimensions have the highest values about rooting ,WHY?.

Through culture system
mixture of 1:1 peat & perlit

In length In diameter
12-13 cm 8-11 mm
17-18 cm 11-14 mm
21-23 cm

Thanks
Ercan

  • Avatar / Picture
  • Sas

Not sure if the following answers your question.
The longer and the thicker the cutting the higher the probability of rooting (before it dries out).
In general, the more nodes the more the chances that one will take off.

Thanks for your reply.Still waiting answers

For what its worth, here is my experience from starting cuttings outdoors (Northern California) starting in the early spring. i use foxfarm ocean forest soil as is. it has a small amount of perlite in it already but if i happen to have extra perlite around, i throw a couple of handfuls to increase in each small pot. i have had about an 80% success rate with roughly 20 cuttings and did not notice a correlation between length and thickness. i typically started 3/8" (~10 mm) to 5/8" cuttings that are at least 10" long (~25 cm). I believe success rate has more to do with how often you monitor the cuttings to make sure nothing dries out completely between waterings. this past spring i even started a 4 foot branch that was 1.5 inches diameter and encroaching on the sidewalk. it looked dead for about 3 months but then voila , came back to life and i have a 4 ft tree now. granted for the large branch it was only 1 data point 

I had to find my metric ruler to respond to your question since most of my rulers are only in inches. I've had the best luck with the two shorter lengths but as SimonS said, there are so many more factors that influence rooting. The 21-23 cm length is one I would probably cut in half because my rooting cups are 14 mm tall. 

just my 2 cents...

The cuttings that are about double the thickness of a #2 pencil and as long with as many nodes as you can get (at least 2) give you the best chances of success.

Direct answer on Your conditions>

12-13 cm 8-11 mm

When it is thicker and too long ..the young  root system can have difficulties to "Feed" that stock. A Correlation subject.
/Slimmer I would not  take either as thicker if You had a choice/.

I have rooted many many cuttings smaller than pencil diameter.
For the way I root, I cut down each cutting to about 6" long.
When I give or sell cuttings, I try to use only larger than pencil diamter
and I cut them at 7-8" long each.

Doug

6-8" long and anywhere from .33 - .75" is perfect. Smaller or bigger can still work. I don't try to mess with thin cuttings because there is not much stored energy. It can be done, but if given a choice it would be my last option. The largest I've rooted was about 1.5" x 12". It grew to 4' in 6 months.

I would add, with the longer cuttings how much is above ground vs below. If planted length wise, this may make a difference as well.

I like the use of grafting tape stretched thin to cover the above dirt portion of the cutting to help preserve moisture and encourage bud break. My favorite cuttings are 3/8" (9.5mm) and with tons of leaf nodes. Often several nodes will branch, and sometimes even from below ground. I have had best results with 8-10" cuttings, but have also rooted thin and thick cuttings.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SimonS
For what its worth, here is my experience from starting cuttings outdoors (Northern California) starting in the early spring. i use foxfarm ocean forest soil as is. it has a small amount of perlite in it already but if i happen to have extra perlite around, i throw a couple of handfuls to increase in each small pot. i have had about an 80% success rate with roughly 20 cuttings and did not notice a correlation between length and thickness. i typically started 3/8" (~10 mm) to 5/8" cuttings that are at least 10" long (~25 cm). I believe success rate has more to do with how often you monitor the cuttings to make sure nothing dries out completely between waterings. this past spring i even started a 4 foot branch that was 1.5 inches diameter and encroaching on the sidewalk. it looked dead for about 3 months but then voila , came back to life and i have a 4 ft tree now. granted for the large branch it was only 1 data point 

This sounds great Simon.  My elder Sicilian and Bolivian fig friends both do something similar.  Just put the stick in a pot and put it under a tree for them.  Most important thing here for me is to figure out what works for your schedule.  I had a rough go last winter trying to start cuttings indoors.  The moss in the box equaled mold for me.  I look forward to another year of learning from the figs.  Cheers everyone, Jodi

i like woody cuttings,bigger the better ,don't have good success with green tender cuttings, but they do require different rooting methods from woody type cuttings.i like at least three nodes but have had luck with two nodes also,lengths depends on nodes for me ,three nodes could be a long or shorter cutting,i like the long moss shoe box method ,and i started wrapping my cuttings in grafting parafilm ,my success rate has gone way up.i wrap from top down to about three quarters the length of cutting ,this eliminates dry out and helps with mold or fungus ,hope this helps some.

I have up on humidity domes techniques, too much mold issues. All the time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DevIsgro
I have up on humidity domes techniques, too much mold issues. All the time.
are you venting by opening lid a little for 10-15 min daily might help try using parafilm as i said about in post above this one 

Reply Cancel
Subscribe Share Cancel