Am I too quick to blame FMV? Other causes?

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ajv73

Registered:1403132563
Posts: 141

Posted 1411588469	Reply with quote #1

I've asked some questions about FMW in the past. I'm sure my trees have it or were exposed to it. But maybe I'm blaming it for my problems? My biggest concern is that some of my plants have blotchy leaves. And, that some fruit seems to have small breaks in the skin -which allows the fruit to ooze very small amounts which harden and look unsightly. But couldn't that be from other problems like insects. Could mites on the trees be causing this? If so, how do I get rid of it (them)? Or could it be from something else I'm not aware of? My leaves aren't deformed and the trees appear to grow without problem and otherwise seem healthy. Thanks __________________ Tony V. - Western PA, Zone 6a

Ampersand

Registered:1389979527
Posts: 728

Posted 1411589620	Reply with quote #2

It could be mites...there was thread recently about that by hoosierbanana if memory serves. Try spraying with a horticultural oil or neem oil (I use this on mine, seems to work well).

ajv73

Registered:1403132563
Posts: 141

Posted 1411590570	Reply with quote #3

Thanks. That's what I was planning on doing just to be safe. But I don't know when to do that. Now? After they've lost their leaves? Or in the spring? __________________ Tony V. - Western PA, Zone 6a

Ampersand

Registered:1389979527
Posts: 728

Posted 1411590833	Reply with quote #4

Couldn't hurt to do it now and in early spring (with dormant oil/horticultural oil) before leaves come out to kill any eggs/overwintering insects.

ajv73

Registered:1403132563
Posts: 141

Posted 1411591194	Reply with quote #5

Do you have a particular brand you recommend? __________________ Tony V. - Western PA, Zone 6a

Ampersand

Registered:1389979527
Posts: 728

Posted 1411592286	Reply with quote #6

I usually use Bonide, but I doubt it matters.

ascpete

Registered:1336096379
Posts: 1,942

Posted 1411593305 · Edited	Reply with quote #7

Tony V, Yes. Nutrient deficiency will also cause FMD (Fig Mosaic Disease and or Leaf Mosaic) and leaf and fig spot necrosis. A few pictures may help with the diagnosis.

ajv73

Registered:1403132563
Posts: 141

Posted 1411604115	Reply with quote #8

Here are some photos. You can see the blotches. There's also a picture of a fig with the spots I referenced earlier. Let me know what you guys think. Thanks. Attached Images image.jpg (964.49 KB, 33 views) image.jpg (791.37 KB, 40 views) image.jpg (244.17 KB, 36 views) image.jpg (841.89 KB, 33 views) __________________ Tony V. - Western PA, Zone 6a

hoosierbanana

Registered:1287901146
Posts: 2,186

Posted 1411607107	Reply with quote #9

Tony, that looks just like what I saw when I had fig mites. http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post/fmv-maybe-mites-yes-7059821 __________________ 7a, DE

ajv73

Registered:1403132563
Posts: 141

Posted 1411609115	Reply with quote #10

Thanks Brent. It was actually your post that got me thinking. Our problems do look very similar! I haven't re-read the whole post. What did you ultimately treat them with? Thanks __________________ Tony V. - Western PA, Zone 6a

drphil69

Registered:1390113240
Posts: 803

Posted 1411614483	Reply with quote #11

FYI - general practice for most (in ground) fruit trees (I'm still new to figs) is 3 dormant oil sprays while dormant. Early, middle, and late during its dormancy. It protects against fungi and such. But it will not hurt to apply dormant oil or neem oil to leaves. __________________ Phil - Zone 7A - Newark, DE Newbie fig lover just trying to learn.

Speedmaster

Registered:1404377112
Posts: 385

Posted 1411622720	Reply with quote #12

I have one tree with FMV and after I treated the sand with manure and lime it is growing like a weed. Try amending the soil. I left it for 4 months in pure sand so roots can grow with ease. __________________ Weather: Winter: 10C+ Summer: 42C+ Growing: Syrian Unk., Atreano, Egyptian Unk., Lebanese Unk., Col de dame Gris, Beall, Negronne, Ronde de bordeaux, Brogiotto Bianco Wish List: Panache.

hoosierbanana

Registered:1287901146
Posts: 2,186

Posted 1411645383	Reply with quote #13

Tony, I sprayed my non bearing trees with Forbid 4F and my bearing trees with Avid. I then followed up on both with more Avid a week later and have sprayed all that were affected with Azatrol twice. They did show back up on a few plants, getting good coverage is very important it seems. I knew they were back because the spots began showing as well... The leaves look perfectly healthy when they first emerge, then the spots appear as the leaf grows. __________________ 7a, DE

ajv73

Registered:1403132563
Posts: 141

Posted 1411667414	Reply with quote #14

Thanks. I'm not real familiar with those products. Do I have to worry about them being bad for my kids or pets? I'm not one of those people that think everything has to be organic. But I just want to make sure I don't take any added risk. Thanks __________________ Tony V. - Western PA, Zone 6a

RichinNJ

Registered:1374784282
Posts: 1,687

Posted 1411669110 · Edited	Reply with quote #15

My plants get that dark/light green thing sometimes and when I fertilize them it goes away. That fig fruit looks like it got bit by something

hoosierbanana

Registered:1287901146
Posts: 2,186

Posted 1411677713	Reply with quote #16

I have only sprayed Azatrol since figs have been ripening, it is made from neem oil and can be sprayed the same day as harvest, no bad taste like neem though. Avid is also listed for many fruits and vegetables and can be sprayed 3 days before harvest. The active ingredient in Forbid 4f is labeled for fruits and vegetables under the names forbid 240 sc and Oberon 4 sc, those products can be sprayed from 3 days (strawberry) to 30 days (corn) before harvest. Forbid is actually safer to spray than Avid, Avid can cause serious but reversible eye damage, and skin irritation. Both have a 12 hour re entry interval (time after spraying before people are applowed back in the area). You can buy sample sizes of Avid and Forbid on eBay, I got the Azatrol from my local hydro shop. Azatrol is more expensive and takes longer to work, but is the safest option and mites are unable to build a resistance to it. It needs to be applied several times to break their life cycle. At the end of the season now their reproduction will have slowed so once a week should work. I read up a little more and learned that Avid is most effective on soft growth, It is more readily absorbed by the plant before the leaves harden, so it is probably not a good choice for the end of the season. __________________ 7a, DE

GRamaley

Registered:1357742252
Posts: 791

Posted 1411733765	Reply with quote #17

I like having this to double check with. __________________ Gloria --------------- 7a, maybe 8

ajv73

Registered:1403132563
Posts: 141

Posted 1411755489	Reply with quote #18

I was going to use as azatrol. But I couldn't find it at my local store. So I ended up buying neem oil. My wife's been all on my case about trying to keep chemicals to a minimum. I will give it a try and let you know what happens. The more I think about it the more I think it is mites - or some type of insect. The new plants I have - that are smaller - are kept in partial shade about 50 feet from my other more mature plants. The small ones show no signs of problems. Except for 2 that we're getting bigger. I moved then to my patio and soon after they got blotchy - once in proximity to the other trees. So I'll give spraying them with the neem oil a try. Then maybe I can spray them with something stronger once they go dormant - and if my wife isn't looking. Thanks. __________________ Tony V. - Western PA, Zone 6a

ajv73

Registered:1403132563
Posts: 141

Posted 1411761900	Reply with quote #19

So I decided to do one of the smaller trees first. I isolated it in a shady area (almost 100 feet from my other trees) and completely covered it with the neem oil mix. I took photos first. I'll wait a few days (or a week) and take some more photos and see it there is a difference. __________________ Tony V. - Western PA, Zone 6a

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